Requirements for chemicals used in eco-textile processing
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1 Organic Labeling and certification 1 Weststrasse Weinfelden Switzerland Fon Fax info@imo.ch Requirements for chemicals used in eco-textile processing Dr. Anett Matthäi, Interlaken, September 23, 2009
2 Organic Labeling and certification 2 Restricted substances in ecolabels and RSLs Affecting human health Environmentally harmful Toxic Carcinogenic Mutagenic Toxic to Reproduction Allergenic Endocrine disrupting toxic to aquatic organisms Persistant Bioaccumulative Bioavailability for organisms causing long-term effects How are those substances regulated in EU?
3 Organic Labeling and certification 3 History before REACH No data no Problems Until 1981: Approx substances registered and in use (EINECS) No obligation to determine harmful characteristics After 1981: Approx 4000 substances registered and in use (ELINCS) Obligation to test new chemicals and label with R/S-phrases Most chemicals have not been tested for health or environmental effects More than 40 different legislations in EU on chemical Authorities had to prove harmful characteristics of a chemical Harmonisation to protect human health and the environment: REACH in 2006
4 Organic Labeling and certification 4 REACH (EC( No 1907/2006) No Data- No Market! Regulation for the production, import and use of chemicals All chemicals > 1 tonne No distinction between new and old chemicals any more: Obligation to test chemicals released before 1981 The producer is responsible to test the harmful characteristics of the chemical Most hazardous substances have to be reported to the consumer or retailer if more than 0,1% are present in the article
5 Organic Labeling and certification 5 Advantages of REACH (EC( No 1907/2006) Innovation of new chemicals will be promoted (less costs for registrations compared to the use of hardly tested existing substances before REACH) european chemical companies are usually better prepared to provide the saftey information to prove compliance with requierements of Eco-labels and standards due to REACH Known harmful substances are excluded from most eco-labels and RSLs anyway CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, reprotoxic) PBT (persistant, bioaccumulative, toxic) vpvb (very persistant, very bioaccumulative) SVHC (substances of very high concern) Are there further restrictions on substances in Eco-labels?
6 Organic Labeling and certification 6 Restricted substances in ecolabels and RSLs today Heavy metals Aromatic /halogenated solvents Plasticers (Phtalates, Bisphenol A) Brominated flame-retardants (PBB, pentabde, oktabde, dekabde) Persistant compexing agents (EDTA, DTPA) APEOs (NPEO, OPEO, end-group-terminated PEOs..) Optical brighteners (stilbene-derivates) Perfluorinated compounds (PFCs, degrading to PFOAs or PFOSs) Allergenic substances (disperse dyes, isocyantes) Formadehyde, other short chained aldehydes
7 Organic Labeling and certification 7 Fluorocarbons in water/oil-repellent repellent finishing High molecular weight polymers containing PFCs get degraded: C8 (Perfluoroctanoic acid PFOA and Perfluorooctanesulfonic acid PFOS) Different modes of toxic action Persistant in the environment Bioaccumulative in blood and tissue PFT PFT Human blood serum: 5,5-104 ng/ml Polar bear (liver, wwt): 4000 ng/g Wild mice near production side (liver, wwt): ng/g Textile Other PFCs like C6 or C10 could also be detected in the environment
8 Organic Labeling and certification 8 Fluorocarbons in water/oil-repellent repellent finishing Using alternatives to perfluorinated compounds should be considered PFT PFT Textile
9 Organic Labeling and certification 9 Allergenic substances Jeans manufacturer recalls collection of denim articles in EU because they might release harmful vapor under certain conditions Reason: Isocyantes from a resin finishing Allergenic isocyantes banned via RSL: Diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI) Hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) Isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) Tetramethylxylene diisocyanate (TMXDI) Toluene diisocyanate (TDI)
10 Organic Labeling and certification 10 Allergenic substances or Limit use of substances classified as allergenic restriction of all substances classified as allergenic? stays on the fabric? covalently bound to the textile or just adsorbed? dermal, oral or inhalative uptake?
11 Organic Labeling and certification 11 Always ask the right question!
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