Eco-Friendly and Biotechnology-Based Ingredient Trends in Korea. Wednesday 21 June 2017 Chang Seo Park, Ph.D. NCR Dongguk University, Korea
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1 Eco-Friendly and Biotechnology-Based Ingredient Trends in Korea Wednesday 21 June 2017 Chang Seo Park, Ph.D. NCR Dongguk University, Korea
2 Contents 1. Introduction 2. Biotechnology Based Cosmetic Ingredients - Plant Cell/Tissue Engineering & Plant Factory - Biotransformation 3. Save Environment and Share Benefits with Farmers - Discarded Immature Citrus Turns into Valuable Phytochemicals - Green Tea Meal: A Novel Source for Moisturizing Polysaccharides - Traditional Medicinal Herb: New Application 4. Natural Oils-Transformed into Novel Phytoceramides
3 Introduction
4 Introduction Recent Trends in Cosmetic R&D: IFSCC Multi-functionality Personalization Protection and prevention from evolution of lifestyle Driving forces of innovation in cosmetics Natural & Bio-sourcing lngredient & Packaging Advanced Technologies: Device, 3D printer etc. Advanced Scientific knowledge : Microbiome Hyper-connection : Beauty connected objects (IoT) Claudie Willemin, Former IFSCC President, In-Cosmetics, Paris 2016
5 Biotechnology Based Cosmetic Ingredients - Plant Cell/Tissue Engineering & Plant Factory - Biotransformation
6 Biotechnology Based Cosmetic Ingredients Development of New Cosmetic Materials Applied Plant Cell and Tissue-Culture Technology Dendrobium candidum Habitat: Asia, Southeast Asia, Australia Cultivate: Slow growth, difficult to cultivate Efficacy: Anti-melanogenic Raoulia australis Habitat: Asia, Southeast Asia, Australia Cultivate: Slow growth, difficult to cultivate Efficacy: Anti-melanogenic
7 Dendrobium candidum - Limitation in large scale cultivation in nature PLB Extract Dendrobium candidum Seed PLB Induction INCI Registration : Dendrobium candidum Callus Extract Product Raoulia australis - A foreign plant, New Zealand origin Raoulia australis Shoot Induction Proliferation INCI Registration : Raoulia australis Shoot Extract Extract
8 Development of Anti-Aging Cosmetics Using Standardized Water Plant Nymphoides Grown in Smart Plant Factory Korea Native (N. inidca ) (N. peltata ) (N. coreana) Flavonoids, Seco-cyclopentane glucosides, Phenolic acids, Monoterpenes DWC(deep water culture)
9 Efficacy & Organic Certificate (USDA) Analyses of phytochemicals in Nymphoides (HPLC) Effect on Pro-Collagen Biosynthesis
10 Plant Cell Engineering for a/b FGF Production
11 Plant Cell Engineering for a/b FGF Production afgf: acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor (FGF1) bfgf: basic Fibroblast Growth Factor a/bfgf support cell survival activities, and are involved in a variety of biological processes, including embryonic development, cell growth, morphogenesis, tissue repair in skin. a F G F / b F G F
12 Development of The Biotransformed Surfactant Hydroxy oils and Hydroxy Fatty Acids O 9 10 Oils O Biotransformation Hydroxylation by hydratase O O O O Hydroxy oil O HO Fatty acids Hydroxy fatty acid Eco-friendly Bio-Surfactants
13 Products Structure Emulsifying activity HO O HO O HO O O H H O O H HO 10 O O Emulsifying activity (Unit mg -1 ) CW fraction 8-HOME 7,8-DiHOTrE 7,8-DiHODE 7,8-DiHOME SO control ALA LA OA Leci Leci complex CO fraction HO 0.0 O
14 Save Environment and Share Benefits with Farmers - Discarded Immature Citrus Turns into Valuable Phytochemicals - Green Tea Meal: A Novel Source for Moisturizing Polysaccharides - Traditional Medicinal Herb: New Application
15 Anti-inflammatory Synephrine from Immature Citrus unshiu
16 Anti-inflammatory Synephrine from Immature Citrus unshiu Molecules 2014, 19,
17 Development of Moisturizer Ingredients Based on Complex Hydration Mechanisms From Purified Polysaccharides in Camellia Sinensis by Supercritical Fluid Technology Catechins Green Tea Leaves Green Tea Leaves Meal Polysaccharides
18 Green Tea Leaves Meal Polysaccharide Sample SFE Et Extraction Extracted by SFE Extracted by Et
19 Cosmetics New Material and Commercialization through Active Ingredient Extraction root of Rubuscoreanus Rubus coreanus, known as bokbunja, Korean black raspberry, or Korean bramble, is a species of raspberry native to Korea, Japan, and China. It produces edible berries (not true berries in the botanical sense) that are fermented into bokbunja ju, a Korean fruit wine (Wikipedia) Rich in Vitamin A, C & antioxidant phytochemicals Traditionally has been used for invigorating weak people. Especially known to be good for men. Also it has been empirically used by women for good looking skin.
20 Inhibition of Pro-inflammatory Cytokines by Robus coreanus Miquel from cultured RAW murine macrophages
21 Natural Oils-Transformed into Novel Phytoceramides
22 Natural Oil Derived Phytoceramide(Eco-ceramide) Triglycerols (Natural Oils) Phytosphingosine Rxn Ceramide NP w/ diverse FA Phytosphingosine, Natural oil, Glycerin PA TG OA H 2 N alpha-la Phytosphingosine Glycerol Fatty acids NP(Cer3) PHS Meadowfoam seed oil 1 : Ceramide 3 2 : Eco-Ceramide 3 : Natural Oil
23 Fatty Acid Profiles of Natural Oils & Eco-Ceramides Oil Fatty acid compos. 14:0 16:0 16:1 18:0 18:1 18:2 18:3 20:0 20:1 22:0 22:1 24:0 24:1 26:0 Stratum corneum (human) (J Lipid Res 24, 1983) Ceramide 3 (commercial) Shea butter Argan oil Macadamia oil Meadowform oil Moringa oil Horse fat oil FA in Ceramide (Face) FA in Ceramide (Leg) FA in Ceramide FA in Oil FA in Ceramide FA in Oil FA in Ceramide FA in Oil FA in Ceramide FA in Oil FA in Ceramide FA in Oil FA in Ceramide FA in Oil FA in Ceramide
24 Thank you This study was supported by a grant of the Korea Healthcare Technology R&D Project, Ministry of Health & Welfare, Republic of Korea (Grant No. HN10C0001).
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