International Journal for Applied Science

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1 International Journal for Applied Science Personal Care Detergents Specialties O IS Reprint from J. Meyer, P. Allef, H. Fötsch: A Novel PEG-free Emulsifier Designed for Formulating W/O Lotions with a Light Skin Feel

2 J. Meyer, P. Allef, H. Fötsch* A Novel PEG-free Emulsifier Designed for Formulating W/O Lotions with a Light Skin Feel Keywords: w/o lotions, skin feel, polymeric emulsifiers Introduction Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions offer a series of significant benefits compared to traditional oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions. By forming an occlusive layer on the skin they are efficiently reducing the evaporative water loss from the skin. Thus they are widely used in formulations targeting the needs of the consumer with dry skin. Moreover, their excellent water repellency makes them a very attractive formulation basis for sun care and color cosmetics formulations. Despite of these attractive benefits, the use of W/O-emulsions has been limited due to an association with stability issues and a heavy skin feel resulting from a high oil content. Stability of W/O Emulsions Typical W/O emulsions have oil phase contents (emollients, waxes, emulsifiers) of wt% and a water phase content of wt%. As indicated by this phase ratio, a W/O emulsifier has to pro- vide excellent stability to succeed in formulating stable emulsions with such a high internal phase content. With classic W/O emulsifiers, such as Glyceryl Oleate, Sorbitan Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate and Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, it was only possible to formulate stable W/O creams with the addition of rather high amounts of waxes such as Bees Wax or Hydrogenated Castor Oil. Within the last years, polymeric emulsifiers like Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (1,2) or Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (3,4), with enhanced stabilizing properties have been developed that enable the formulation of stable W/O lotions where lesser amounts of stabilizing waxes are needed. Although PEG-free polyglycerine-based emulsifiers are preferred in some European countries, two ethoxylated emulsifiers should be mentioned as well: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone and PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate. The silicone based emulsifier Cetyl PEG/ PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (4-6) in particular is known for its excellent stabilizing properties and has opened new possibilities in formulating W/O lotions and creams for a wide range of applications such as moisturizing body lotions, water resistant, high SPF sun care formulations and color cosmetics with high pigment loadings. The excellent stabilizing properties of this emulsifier are due to its polymeric and polyfunctional structure that results in an improved adsorption of the emulsifier at the water/oil interface (Fig. 1) and consequently results in excellent heat stability of the finished emulsions. Fig. 1 Polymeric, polyfunctional emulsifiers form a stable film at the W/O interface PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is not as efficient in providing stable W/O emulsions, but it is well known for its ability to form W/O lotions with a very low viscosity (7). However, formulating stable W/O lotions with an oil phase content below 25 wt% is still a big challenge. In systems with such a low oil content either the currently available emulsifiers do not provide sufficient stability or the resulting emulsion viscosity is too high. How to obtain W/O lotions with a light skin feel? In spite of the recognized benefits of W/O emulsions their use is limited to the 15-20% share of the emulsion market. The main reason behind this limitation is the sensory profile of classical W/O emulsions which is often seen as a major drawback. 20 SÖFW-Journal

3 The skin feel of W/O emulsions has been described as heavy, oily, sometimes even tacky. The absorption of these classical systems is often slow and the skin surface appears oily after application. Additionally the spreadability of W/O lotions is generally poor. Formulating W/O emulsions with a very light skin feel requires improvements in spreadability, absorption behavior and overall skin aesthetics of these emulsions. Emollients with a low viscosity and excellent spreading properties, such as Diethylhexyl Carbonate or Cyclopentasiloxane, will improve the spreading and absorption behavior of W/O emulsions. But just selecting the right emollients is not sufficient to achieve the desired aesthetics. Excellent spreading properties can only be obtained if the W/O emulsion itself has a low viscosity. Additionally, low oil phase content (less than 25 wt%) will improve the absorption which will result in a more pleasant, less oily skin feel. Reducing the oil phase content of W/O emulsions means reducing the continuous phase and, by doing so, increasing the interaction between the water droplets in the emulsion. An increase in viscosity is the direct consequence of that. Additionally, the risk of coalescence of water droplets increases as the average distance between the water droplets further decreases. Formulating W/O emulsions with a very light skin feel thus needs to combine contradictions. In other words: having the ability to formulate low viscosity lotions with a low oil phase content, excellent emulsion stability and a pleasant overall skin feel. Designing a new emulsifier In order to fulfil these contradictory requirements for very light W/O emulsions it was necessary to develop a new type of polymeric emulsifier. This new development was based on the combination of some basic principles: Fig. 2 Structure of Polyfunctionality plus a high molecular weight The combination of these two elements in one structure will contribute to the formation of a stable interfacial film at the water/oil interface, leading to optimized emulsion stability. Polyhydroxystearate groups The branched structure of polyhydroxystearates leads to lower emulsion viscosities compared to molecules with other types of fatty acids. Including multiple polyhydroxystearate moieties in one molecule results in an emulsifier suited to the formulation of low viscosity W/O emulsions. A O IS Following this new approach, a highly efficient polyglycerine-based W/O emulsifier was developed. The structure of this new emulsifier is depicted schematically in Fig. 2. While the polyhydroxystearate groups lead to reduced emulsion viscosity, optimized stabilization is provided by the isostearate groups. Sebacic acid is used as a»linker«to build up molecular weight and to obtain a polyfunctional character of the emulsifier molecule. Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate Polyhydroxystearate Sebacate (trade name ISOLAN GPS) is a yellow, clear to turbid, viscous Phase Trade Name/INCI % ISOLAN GPS 2.00 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.10 Paracera W Microcrystalline Wax, Paramelt B.V.) TEGOSOFT Liquid Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate 5.00 TEGOSOFT OS Ethylhexyl Stearate 5.80 Isohexadecane 5.00 B Glycerin 3.00 Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.50 LACTIL Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine; Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium Benzoate; Lactic Acid 2.00 Water Z Preservative, Parfum q.s. Heat phase A to approx. 80 C. Add phase B (80 C or room temperature) slowly while stirring. Homogenize for a short time. Cool with gentle stirring below 30 C and homogenize again. Table 1 Formulation example of a W/O lotion with 18 wt% oil phase content SÖFW-Journal

4 liquid with a HLB of approx. 5. It has good skin compatibility and provides a pleasant, non-oily skin feel. It is compatible with all types of cosmetic oils and silicones requiring no additional co-emulsifiers and making possible the cold processing of emulsions. The most striking property of this polyglycerine-based emulsifier, however, is that it enables the formulation of W/O lotions with a low oil content and a very light skin feel. Depending on the emollients used, oil phases as low as 18% are possible. A formulation example for a W/O lotion with just 18% oil phase content is shown in Table 1. This formula contains Lactil, a blend of natural moisturizers similar to the Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF) of the skin. Another formulation example containing active ingredients is the after sun lotion for sensitive skin represented in Table 2. Creatine is a naturally occurring amino acid derivative that plays a vital role in the cellular energy metabolism leading to a revitalization of the skin appearance (8). Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine imparts skin smoothing properties. A particularly light skin feel can be obtained when a combination of Diethylhexyl Carbonate and Cyclopentasiloxane is used as in the formulation example in Table 3. The high content of Cyclopentasiloxane also shows the good compatibility of the new emulsifier with silicones. Phase Trade Name/INCI % A ISOLAN GPS 3.00 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.25 Paracera W Microcrystalline Wax, Paramelt B.V.) TEGOSOFT TN C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate TEGOSOFT DEC Diethylhexyl Carbonate Tocopheryl Acetate 0.60 Phytosphingosine SLC Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine 0.20 B Glycerin 3.00 GluCare S Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan 0.20 TEGO Cosmo C 100 Creatine 0.50 D-Panthenol Panthenol, Roche-Vitamins 0.50 Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.00 Water Z Preservative, Parfum q.s. Heat phase A to approx. 80 C. Add phase B (80 C or room temperature) slowly while stirring. Homogenize for a short time. Cool with gentle stirring below 30 C and homogenize again. Table 2 After sun lotion for sensitive skin polyhydroxystearate and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate. Additionally the ethoxylated emulsifier PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate was included in this series since this emulsifier is particularly known for its ability to form low viscosity W/O lotions. The results of this study are illustrated in Fig. 3. Varying the oil phase content In order to illustrate the particular properties of a series of experiments has been carried out in which the oil phase content was systematically reduced from 25 wt% to 21 wt%. The tested formulations (Table 4) are mainly based on Diethylhexyl Carbonate and Cyclopentasiloxane. The emulsions were stored 6 months at room temperature and 40 C. Additionally the freeze/thaw stability was determined via three cycles from room temperature to -15 C and back to room temperature. (»GPS«) was compared against two well known polymeric PEGfree W/O emulsifiers: Polyglyceryl-2 Di- Phase Trade Name/INCI % A ISOLAN GPS 3.00 TEGOSOFT DEC Diethylhexyl Carbonate 7.00 Cyclopentasiloxane Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.10 Paracera W 80 Microcrystalline Wax, Paramelt B.V B Water Glycerin 2.00 Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.50 Z Preservative, Parfum q.s. Heat phase A to approx. 80 C. Add phase B (80 C or room temperature) slowly while stirring. Homogenize for a short time. Cool with gentle stirring below 30 C and homogenize again. Table 3 Formulation example of a W/O lotion with a particular light skin feel 22 SÖFW-Journal

5 It can clearly be seen (Fig. 3) that Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate results in lower emulsion viscosities than other PEG-free emulsifiers. This difference is especially pronounced when the oil phase is reduced to 21 wt%. The emulsion viscosity of the containing formulation at 21 wt% is comparable to the emulsion viscosities available with the other polyglycerine-based emulsifiers at 25 wt% oil phase content. The reduction in oil phase content is beneficial with respect to a lighter skin feel and cost minimization potential. Additionally gives improved freeze stability in comparison to Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate. Viscosities obtained with the ethoxylated emulsifier PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate are the lowest viscosities observed in this testing. However, neither the freeze stability nor the long-term heat stability (oil separation) was comparable to the emulsions formulated with. These results indicate that Polyglyceryl- 4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate is able to combine stability, low viscosity and lightness at the same time. It opens a variety of new application possibilities for W/O systems. Total Oil Phase Content 21.00% 23.00% 25.00% A Emulsifier 3.00% 3.00% 3.00% Cyclopentasiloxane 8.70% 10.70% 12.70% TEGOSOFT DEC 6.00% 6.00% 6.00% Diethylhexyl Carbonate TEGOSOFT OP 2.80% 2.80% 2.80% Ethylhexyl Palmitate Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.25% 0.25% 0.25% Microcrystalline Wax 0.25% 0.25% 0.25% B Glycerin 2.00% 2.00% 2.00% Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.50% 1.50% 1.50% Water 75.50% 73.50% 71.50% Z Preservative, Parfum q.s. q.s. q.s. Heat phase A to approx. 80 C. Add phase B (80 C or room temperature) slowly while stirring. Homogenize for a short time. Cool with gentle stirring below 30 C and homogenize again. Table 4 Varying the oil phase content: composition of test formulations Cold processed lotions Being a liquid, is suitable for cold processed W/O lotions. A formulation example using Zinc Stearate as a stabilizer is represented in Table 5. Stability under critical conditions (overhomogenization experiments) Fig. 3 Emulsion viscosities depending on the type of emulsifier and on the oil phase content The viscosity of W/O lotions can be built by applying additional shear (overhomogenization). Although it is known that applying this technique can result in a poor storage profile and eventually stability problems (4), it is often applied in the production of W/O lotions to adjust final product viscosity. Therefore it is of high impor- tance that an emulsifier is able to provide satisfying stability even if a system has been exposed to such critical conditions. Systematic experiments have been carried out comparing the three PEG-free W/O emulsifiers Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate (»GPS«), Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (»PGPHS«) and Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate (»PGPR«) with respect to their stabilizing potential when overhomogenization is applied. Emulsions with 23 and 27 wt% oil phase content were prepared. An oil phase content of 27 wt% is typical for W/O lotions. SÖFW-Journal

6 Phase Trade Name/INCI % A ISOLAN GPS 2.50 TEGOSOFT DEC Diethylhexyl Carbonate TEGOSOFT OP Ethylhexyl Palmitate 9.00 Zinc Stearate 0.50 B Glycerin 3.00 Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.50 Water Z Preservative, Parfum q.s. Heat phase B at room temperature slowly while stirring. Homogenize. Table 5 Formulation example of a cold processed W/O lotion Total Oil Phase Content 23.00% 27.00% A Emulsifier 2.5% 2.5% Emollient Mixture 1) 19.2% 23.2% TEGOSOFT OP 2) Ethylhexyl Palmitate 1.1% 1.1% Microcrystalline Wax 2) 0.1% 0.1% Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2) 0.1% 0.1% B Glycerin 3.0% 3.0% Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate 1.5% 1.5% Water ad 100% ad 100% Z Preservative, Parfum q.s. q.s. q.s. 1) Emollient mixtures consisted of: Ethylhexyl Palmitate/Paraffinum Perliquidum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride/Ethylhexyl Palmitate and Diethylhexyl Carbonate/Cyclopentasiloxane (always in a ratio of 1:1) 2) has been added in form of a pre-prepared oil-gel mixture at room temperature. Oil-gel mixture was prepared by dissolving waxes in Ethylhexyl Palmitate at 80 C. Add phase B slowly to phase A while stirring. Homogenize for 3 min 1300 rpm (»MIG«stirrer). Determine viscosity (Brookfield RVT spindle C/10 rpm). Overhomogenize for 1 min rpm (»ESGE«stirrer) Table 6 Composition of test formulations for overhomogenization experiments However, with an reduced oil phase content of 23 wt% it is already difficult to formulate stable W/O lotions using common W/O emulsifiers. The composition of the test emulsions is summarized in Table 6. For both concentrations oil phases with three different compositions were examined: a mixture of low polarity (Ethylhexyl Palmitate and Paraffinum Perliquidum (ratio 1:1) (»OP/P25«)), a mixture of higher polarity (Ethylhexyl Palmitate and Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (ratio 1:1) (»OP/CT«)) and a mixture of low viscosity emollients with excellent spreadability (Diethylhexyl Carbonate and Cyclopentasiloxane (ratio 1:1) (»DEC/D5«)). The emulsions were prepared in an innovative semi-cold process that saves both processing time and energy. In a first step a wax-oil gel was prepared by dissolving the waxes in the oil at 80 C and subsequently cooling to room temperature. The resulting wax-oil gel consisted of 85% Ethylhexyl Palmitate and 7.5% of both Hydrogenated Castor Oil and Microcrystalline Wax. Cold processing of the W/O test emulsions was then easily possible including 1.33% of this wax-oil gel in the oil phase. The water phase was added to the oil while stirring and the samples were homogenized with a»mig«stirrer (Ekato GmbH, Germany) (Fig. 4; image at the left) for 3 min at 1300 rpm. The viscosities of the emulsions were measured directly after this homogenization step. Then the same emulsions were overhomogenized for 1 min by applying rpm with a high speed homogenizer (Fig. 4; image at the right) (»ESGE Zauberstab«(ESGE AG, Switzerland)). Viscosities of the overhomogenized samples were measured after one day, one month and three months storage at room temperature. Stability was evaluated at room temperature and 40 C up to three months, freeze-thaw cycles (3 x r.t./-15 C/r.t.) were applied to assess the low temperature stability. The results of the overhomogenization experiments are represented in Table 7 and Table 8. Instabilities like water separation are marked in red in the tables.»w1«,»w2«and»w3«describe the extent of the observed water separation (weak, significant and strong). Lotions based on GPS with 23 wt% oil phase content showed the lowest emulsion viscosities regardless from the composition of the oil phase before overhomogenization was applied (Table 7). Overhomogenization led to creamy consistencies for all emulsifier systems, the only exception being the GPS system with the light emollients Diethylhexyl Carbonate and Cyclopentasiloxane which remained a lotion. The freeze/thaw stability testing showed significant water separation for the systems based on PGPHS. The PGPR systems containing Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride and Ethylhexyl Palmitate showed water separation after three months at 40 C. 24 SÖFW-Journal

7 All systems based on GPS showed no signs of instability. The effect that the most polar oil phase (CT/OP) seems to be the most critical one when exposed to overhomogenization, is in good agreement with findings in a previous study (4). In that study it was found that W/O lotions based on more polar oils tend to be more sensitive to overhomogenization. It is interesting to compare to the systems with an oil phase ratio of 27% that are summarized in Table 8. Again, the lowest viscosities before overhomogenization were obtained with the GPS based lotions. Although overhomogenization led to a significant viscosity increase, all systems retained a lotion-like consistency. This lower viscosity seems to result in more critical systems regarding potential instabilities. Another interesting point is the fact that in the 27 wt% oil phase system, the relative order of the overhomogenized emulsion viscosities depends on the oil phase composition. In case of the CT/OP mixture the GPS-based emulsion had the highest viscosity, in case of the DEC/D5 mixture the GPS-based system had the lowest viscosity. Independent of the observed viscosity the GPS-based emulsions were the best Fig. 4 Stirrers used: typical stirrer (»MIG«) for homogenizing W/O lotions (image on the left);»esge«stirrer used for overhomogenization (image on the right) performing systems, not showing any trace of instability at any point (Tables 7 and 8). The overhomogenized 27% oil phase emulsions based on PGPR clearly showed water separation for the Ethylhexyl Palmitate/Paraffinum Liquidum and the Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride/Ethylhexyl Palmitate systems. Water separation was noted in these emulsions after only 1 month of storage at 40 C. These deficiencies in the heat stability demonstrate that Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a less efficient stabilizer than either GPS or PGPHS under critical processing conditions. While Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate provided a good performance with respect to high temperature storage stability of the overhomogenized samples, it was not as efficient as either the GPS or the PGPR in freeze/thaw evaluations. The outstanding stabilizing potential of was proven in these experiments and supports that the basic principles applied in the design of this new emulsifier are correct. 23% Oil Emulsifier Viscosity [Pas]* Viscosity [Pas]* storage at room temperature storage at 40 C freeze test Phase before after Viscosity [Pas]* Viscosity [Pas]* 1 month 3 months (3x -15 C) overhomogenizing overhomogenizing after 1 month after 3 months OP/P25 GPS WO 31 WO WO WO WO OP/P25 PGPHS WO 39 WO WO WO W1-2 OP/P25 PGPR WO 31 WO WO WO WO OP/CT GPS WO 49 WO WO WO WO OP/CT PGPHS WO 39 WO WO WO W3 OP/CT PGPR WO 46 WO WO W1 WO DEC/D5 GPS WO 24 WO WO WO WO DEC/D5 PGPHS WO 35 WO WO WO W2 DEC/D5 PGPR WO 40 WO WO WO WO *Brookfield RVT Spindle C / 10 rpm emulsion stability: WO no signs of instability W1 weak water separation W2 significant water separation W3 strong water separation Table 7 Results overhomogenization studies with 23 wt% oil phase SÖFW-Journal

8 27% Oil Emulsifier Viscosity [Pas]* Viscosity [Pas]* storage at room temperature storage at 40 C freeze test Phase before after Viscosity [Pas]* Viscosity [Pas]* 1 month 3 months (3x -15 C) overhomogenizing overhomogenizing after 1 month after 3 months OP/P25 GPS WO 13 WO WO WO WO OP/P25 PGPHS WO 13 WO WO WO W2-3 OP/P25 PGPR WO 15 WO W1 W1 WO OP/CT GPS WO 20 WO WO WO WO OP/CT PGPHS WO 14 WO WO WO-1 W2-3 OP/CT PGPR WO 18 WO W1 W1-2 WO DEC/D5 GPS WO 10 WO WO WO WO DEC/D5 PGPHS WO 13 WO WO-1 WO-1 W1-2 DEC/D5 PGPR WO 15 WO WO WO WO *Brookfield RVT Spindle C / 10 rpm emulsion stability: WO no signs of instability W1 weak water separation W2 significant water separation W3 strong water separation Table 8 Results overhomogenization studies with 27 wt% oil phase Conclusion The newly developed W/O emulsifier Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate enables the formulation of PEG-free W/O emulsions with a very light skin feel. To give these benefits, the»paradox«of W/O emulsions had to be solved: formulating low viscosity W/O lotions with a low oil phase content. With this new emulsifier it is possible to formulate stable W/O lotions with oil phase contents as low as wt%. In particular, when is used in combinations with light emollients such as Diethylhexyl Carbonate or Cyclopentasiloxane W/O lotions with a previously unrealized light skin feel can be obtained. Moreover, the stabilizing potential of the new emulsifier proved to be outstanding even under critical processing conditions (overhomogenization). gives formulators the tool to develop truly innovative formulations combining attractive sensory profiles with the specific advantages of W/O emulsions. References (1) A. Ansmann, R. Kawa, R. von Kies, G. Strauss; SÖFW-Journal; 122; 10 (1996); 653 (2) C. Mitchell, A. Ansmann, S. Brüning, U. Issberner, S. Nefkens; SÖFW-Journal; 131; 3 (2005); 14 (3) EP (4) K. Jenni, P. Hameyer; Parfümerie und Kosmetik;12 (1998); 22 (5) B. Grüning, P. Hameyer, C. Weitemeyer, Tenside Surf. Det.; 29 (1992), 78 (6) P. Hameyer, SÖFW-Journal, 117; 6 (1991); 214 (7) T. F. Tadros, C. Dederen, M. C. Taelman; Cosmetics & Toiletries; 112 (1997), 75 (8) U. Wollenweber, K. Korevaar, A. V. Rawlings, U. Schick; SÖFW-Journal.; 130; 9 (2004); 12 * Author s address: Dr. Jürgen Meyer Dr. Petra Allef Hannelore Fötsch Degussa Goldschmidt Personal Care Goldschmidtstr Essen Germany Juergen.Meyer_Dr@degussa.com 26 SÖFW-Journal

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