ICASH-A08 CHANGING COSMETIC BRANDS INCREASE RISK OF FREQUENCY AND DEGREE OF ACNE VULGARIS IN FEMALE UNDERGRADUATE STUDENTS

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1 ICASH-A08 CHANGING COSMETIC BRANDS INCREASE RISK OF FREQUENCY AND DEGREE OF ACNE VULGARIS IN FEMALE UNDERGRADUATE STUDENTS Annida P Maharani *, Witri Pratiwi, Donny Nauphar Faculty of Medicine, Universitas Swadaya Gunung Jati, Cirebon, Indonesia *Corresponding author s anidaputri21@gmail.com ABSTRACT Background: Acne vulgaris is a skin disease caused by chronic inflammation of the follicular pilosebacea marked by the presence of blackheads, papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts in place of healthy skin. One of the risk factors for Acne vulgaris is changing brands which may contain comedogenic and acnegenic ingredients. The aim of this study is to find out the relationship of changing brands and the prevalence of Acne vulgaris in female undergraduates. Methods: This was an observational study with cross sectional design. The subjects were 344 female undergraduates who used two out of four types of s, recruited by total sampling. Data were analyzed to see the relationship of changing brands with the degree and the frequency of acne. Results: Based on Spearman correlation test, changing brands has a strong positive correlation (r 2 = 0.762) with the degree of acne and a mild positive correlation (r 2 =0.461) with acne frequency. Chi-square test showed statistical significance (p<0.05) between changing brands and the degree and frequency of acne. Subjects who frequently s s has a 66 times higher risk of having bad acne (PR= ; CI 95% = ) and 8 times higher risk of having more frequent acne (PR= 8.432; CI 95% = ) compared to subjects that do not frequently s. Conclusion: Changing brands increased the risk for both the degree of acne and the frequency of acne. Keywords: Acne vulgaris, changing brands, frequency of acne, degree of acne INTRODUCTION Acne vulgaris is a skin disease caused by chronic inflammation of the follicular sebacea marked by the presence of blackheads, papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts in place of healthy skin [1]. Several factors that cause acne includes genetics, endocrine, food, sebaceae activity, stress, infection, s and other chemicals [2]. According to Indonesian Food and Drug Administration 2015 Cosmetic Technical Requisite, s are compounds that was meant to be used superficially (epidermis, hair, nails, lips, and external genitalia), or teeth and mouth mucosal membrane that cleans, scent, improve aesthetics, improve body odor and maintain good health [3]. According to Indonesian Trade Ministry, s is a billion industry in Indonesia, with 2017 growth increased 15% compared to predicted growth in 2012 [4]. The industry is supported by the presence of online shopping makes it really easy for consumers to obtain various kinds of s. 53

2 Excessive use of s and frequently changing s is a risk factor for Acne vulgaris [5]. Several component may be comedogenic and acnegenic, such as: lanolin, petrolatum, several plant-based oils, butyl stearate, lauryl alcohol, and oleic acid [6]. With many brands available in the market along with various chemical composition, changing s brands may expose skin to these comedogenic and acnegenic chemicals and may cause irritation due to skin incompatibility or skin adaptation to new chemicals. The aim of this research is to find out the relationship of changing s brands to the frequency and degree of Acne vulgaris. METHODS This is a cross-sectional observational study with 334 female undergraduates, recruited by total sampling. Female undergraduates were chosen for this study due to the fact that high school students are prohibited to wear makeup during school hours, while female undergraduates do not have that limitation. Subjects were given questionnaire to document the frequency of changing brands and frequency of acne in the last 6 months Changing of brands Cosmetic is defined as compounds that aremeant to be used superficially on the epidermis, hair, nails, lips, and external genitalia, or teeth and mouth mucosal membrane that cleans, scent, improve aesthetics, improve body odor and maintain good health. In this study, the s included in this study are powder (facial), foundation/bb cream, sun screen, and make-up remover. Subjects were included in the study if the subject used at least two out of four types of s mentioned. Changing brands of at least one type of more than 1 time in the last 6 months is considered frequent. Acne severity Acne severity were graded based on American Academy of Dermatology 1991 Consensus Conference on Acne Classification.The degree of acne was classified into mild and moderate/severe. Acne is classified as mild if there is <25 comedo, <10 papule/pustule, and no nodule. While moderate/severe acne have >25 comedo, >10 papule/pustule with nodules.the frequency of acne is classified into frequent and non-frequent. Developing acne more than 1 time in the last 6 months is considered frequent. The data were then analyzed using Spearman s correlation, Chi-square test, and prevalence ratio with 95% confidence interval. RESULTS Characteristic of respondents Table 1. Characteristics of Respondents NO CHARACTERISTICS AMOUNT (n) 1 Age 19 years old 20 years old 21 years old 22 years old 23 years old 2 Cosmetic brand Not frequent PERCENTAGES (%) Degree of Acne vulgaris Mild

3 NO CHARACTERISTICS AMOUNT (n) Moderate/Severe Frequency of Acne vulgaris Non-frequent Distribution of use Powder Foundation/BB Cream Sun screen Makeup remover PERCENTAGES (%) Most of the females in this study were 21 years old (43%) and 37.4% of the subjects d brands frequently. 43% of subjects experienced severe degree of acne and 30.2% experienced frequent acne. Powder were the most used s (96.4%) followed by foundation/bb cream, sun screen and makeup remover with 74.3%, 22.7%, and 31.1% respectively. Bivariate analysis The relationship of changing brands to the frequency and degree of acne were analyzed using Spearman s correlation and Chi-square test using significance level p<0.05. Table 2. Effect of changing brands to frequency and degree of acne Changing brands Spearman s p-value Correlation Degree of acne Frequency of acne Spearman s correlation analysis showed positive correlation to both the frequency of acne outbreaks and the degree of acne (r=0.462 and respectively). The Chi-square analysis showed p=0.000 (p<0.05) for both the frequency and degree of acne, showing that there is a statistically significant effect on changing brands to the frequency and degree of acne. Non-frequent Table 3. Prevalence ratio of changing brands to the degree of acne Degree of acne Total PR 95% CI Mild Moderate/severe Lower Upper 181 (86.6%) 11 (8.8%) Total 192 (57.5%) 28 (13.4%) 114 (91.2%) 142 (42.5%)

4 Table 4. Prevalence risk of changing brands to the frequency of acne Frequency of acne Total PR 95% CI Non-frequent Lower Upper Non-frequent (86.1%) 53 (42.4%) Total 233 (69.8%) (13.9%) 72 (57.6%) 101 (30.2%) 334 Table 3 showed that females that brands often has 66 times higher probability of experiencing moderate/severe degree of acne compared to those who do not brands often. Females who brands often has 8 times higher probability of experiencing more acne outbreaks compared to those who do not brands often as shown in table 4. DISCUSSION Acne vulgaris is one of the most common skin disorders affecting up to 80% of the world population, especially during pubertal years and adolescence. Genetics, stress, poor hygiene, food, bacterial infection, sex and other unhealthy habits have been linked with acne in female adolescence and young adults [2,7,8]. Various causative factors, including usage have been linked to acne. The findings in this study showed that more than 96% of adolescence female use at least one type of. A similar finding was also observed in a study in Sri Lankan urban adolescent females aged 15 to 17 years old showed 90% of the population use some form of and only 10% are complete non-user. Components in s that are comedogenic and acnegenicsuch as acetylated lanolin, benzaldehyde, D&C red, butyl stearate, and oil-based ingredients may be a causative factor for acne. The term, Acne a, was coined by Kligman and Mills [5] after observation of certain s were comedogenic when tested on external ear canals of rabbits and human subjects. The findings in this study are similar to Kligman and Mills as there was a significant association between use and acne. Due to these comedogenic and acnegenic components, use may aggravate acne. A cross-sectional study in 140 urban adolescent females in Sri Lanka showed a statistically significant moderately strong relationship between frequent usage of s and severity of acne in adolescent female [7]. This is similar with the findings in this study with positive correlation found between brands and the frequency and degree of acne. This study did not take into account the hormonal factors, menstrual status, food consumption, physical activity, and stress level of the subjects. The composition of each brands was also not taken into account, with the assumption that each brand uses different chemical composition and concentration. For future work, studying individual comedogenic and acnegenic components can be useful as well as considering menstrual status, food intake, and physical activity to investigate their effect along with on acne. Females should be more aware of the type of skin they have and study the ingredients in the s prior to use, instead of buying s on trial-and-error basis to ensure that the is suitable for their skin type and therefore lowering the need of changing brands due to incompatibility and lowering the probability of developing acne due to incompatible. 56

5 CONCLUSION This study showed that frequently changing brands correlates positively with frequency and degree of acne in female undergraduates. ly changing brands increase the risk of having more severe acne by 66 times higher in females. Females who frequently changing brands have 8 times higher risk of experiencing more frequent acne breakouts compared to females who do not brands often. Females of this group age must be made aware that frequently changing brands may be a potential aggravating factor for acne. CONFLICT OF INTEREST The authors declare no conflict of interest. REFERENCES 1. Adhi D. Ilmu Penyakit Kulit Kelamin (The Science of Veneral Disease) 6 th Edition. Jakarta: Fakultas Kedokteran Universitas Indonesia; Tjekyan S. Kejadian Dan Faktor Resiko Akne Vulgaris (Prevalence and Risk Factors for Acne Vulgaris). Media Medika Indonesiana; Badan Pengawas Obat dan Makan (Food and Drug Administration), Republik Indonesia Indonesian Trade Ministry. Indonesia Lahan Subur Indsutri Kosmetik (Indonesia Growing Cosmetics Market). (accessed: 27 Juli 2017) 5. Kligman AM, Mills OHJ. Acne a. Arch Dermatol. 1972;7: Layton AM. Disorders of Sebaceous Glands. In: Burns T, Breathnach S, Cox N, Griffiths C, Editor. Rook s Textbook of Dermatology, 8 th. Oxford: Blackwell publishing; Perera MPN, Peiris WMDM, Pathmanathan D, Mallawaarachchi S, Karunathilake IM. Relationship between acne vulgaris and usage in Sri Lankan urban adolescent females. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17: Shen C, Wang QZ, Shen ZY, Yuan HY, Yu WJ, Chen XD, Xu H. Genetic association between the NLRP3 gene and acne vulgaris in a Chinese population. ClinExp Dermatol