Pilates for Rock Climbers:

Transcription

1 Pilates for Rock Climbers: Counteracting Kyphotic Posture and Improving Flexibility for Technique By: Meghan DeGrave BASI Pilates 3080 Bristol St. Suite 500 Costa Mesa March April & May July

2 Abstract: Rock climbing, whether it is done outdoors at any boulder large enough to scale and traverse, or at an indoor climbing gym with numerous different routes to conquer, takes an enormous toll on the climbers alignment, joints, muscle structure, posture, and much more. Climbers regularly risk injury to maximize their performance and, as with any sport, when they fail, they continually try and try again. In a climber s case, they are ultimately overloading the spinal column and shoulder joints with their own body weight while placing their body in unnatural positions. I am going to focus on ways to counteract the kyphotic effect rock climbing imposes on the spine and posture while, in my case study, challenging the climber s flexibility and conditioning the core with the practice of Pilates in the hope of improving the climber s technique and performance. When all your muscles are properly developed, you will, as a matter of course, perform your work with minimum effort and maximum pleasure. Joseph Pilates

3 Table of Contents I. Abstract. 1 II. Table of Contents... 2 III. Anatomical Description.. 3 IV. Case Study 5 V. Conditioning Program.. 5 VI. Goals, Intentions, and Specifics. 8 VII. Conclusion..10 VIII. Bibliography..12

4 Anatomical Descriptions The spinal column which is comprised of 24 vertebrae, and although not actually separated, is for scientific purposes, separated into three sections known as the Cervical spine (7 vertebrae), Thoracic Spine (12 vertebrae), and the Lumbar spine (5 Vertebrae). The spine naturally should have slight curvature in each area, which is depicted below image by the normal spine. Kyphosis, seen above in the kyphotic spine image, is when the natural curvature of the spine, specifically the Thoracic spine, increases, causing the body to appear hunched forward with rounded shoulders. Whether determined by poor posture, muscular imbalances and weakness, degenerative conditions, trauma, or congenital conditions, kyphosis is extremely common. This postural condition limits motion and strength, puts pressure on the lungs and organs, creates opportunity for more severe spinal conditions and can cause pain. For rock climbers, a kyphosis is developed through on overuse and over strengthening of anterior shoulder muscles and pectoral muscles. Weak latissimus dorsi are typically found in climbers. The lats are often stretched when hunched forward and reaching in an upward position, which also limits the recruitment of back extensors. Kyphosis also creates a forward thrusting neck due to the increased forward curve in the cervical spine. Rounding in the shoulders will naturally bias the neck forward and the person will begin to lift the chin so as not to be looking downwards, creating the excess curvature in the thoracic spine. This can be the culprit of many problems such as headaches, muscles strain, muscle imbalances, weakness, pinched nerves, vertebral conditions, and pain. Rock climbers frequently increase the risk of worsening their posture to the point of a severe thrusting neck due to the constant upward gazing before and throughout ascension of a route. This forward thrust can be corrected by counteracting the kyphosis through strengthening spinal extensors, releasing pectoralis major and minor, opening the external rotation of the shoulders, strengthening lats, and through awareness.

5 This image addresses the above mentioned Pectoral muscles, specifically, Pectoralis Minor. This muscle connects from the coracoid process of the scapula to the third, fourth, and fifth ribs. In the case of kyphosis, this muscle tightens and shortens, pulling on the shoulder and shoulder blade, limiting the ability to align and stabilize properly. Rock climbers overwork and overuse their upper body and extremities, and their muscles and joints are used to pull them up and keep their weight forward and to keep their center of gravity close to the rock. They often appear to have very strong and muscular necks and shoulders because of the overuse of pectoral muscles, upper trapezius, and deltoids. It is important to understand, however, that in most cases, although the muscles appear large and strong, these muscles are tightened and shortened and potentially causing their bodies and their performance more harm and injury. The deltoid, separated into three distinct fibrous muscles, anterior deltoid, lateral deltoid, and posterior deltoid, lay in front, on top, and behind the shoulder joint. Regarding kyphotic posture, and in the case of rock climbers, the anterior deltoid holds all the glory, or all the tightness that is. The origin of the anterior deltoid is lateral along the clavicle, where the pectoralis minor connects as well. In addition to the rounded shoulders caused by kyphosis and tight pectoral muscles, when the anterior deltoid over recruits and over develops, as it does for many rock climbers, the shoulder, at the glenohumeral joint, internally rotates. This effects muscle development during exercise and everyday activities, leads to scapular elevation and abduction, which decreases stability, and can lead to impingements and put strain on the rotator cuff, causing injury. Addressing and counteracting kyphotic posture in rock climbers through Pilates can be done by careful assessment of the musculoskeletal structure and acknowledging the promise for improvement through patience and persistence. The art of Pilates is looking at the body and knowing the most direct way to address it. Joseph Pilates

6 Case Study For my case study of the beneficial effects of the Pilates method on the detrimental effects imposed on the body during rock climbing, my client is Jake Ells. Jake is a 22-year-old male who has been rock climbing for a few years now. He typically boulders, or free climbs, at indoor climbing gyms, with the occasional belaying of routes which is done with a partner and ropes. He has also been testing his performance bouldering and lead-roping outdoors on real rocks, which more intensely strains the joints and muscles due to smaller grips and foot holds. In addition to climbing, he gets exercise through hiking. In prior years, he was a soccer athlete and enjoyed running. Jake is not only seeking the benefits of Pilates to improve his flexibility, strength, and overall climbing technique, but to correct his muscular imbalances associated with a kyphotic spinal column, internally rotated shoulders, and thrusting neck. This was his first experience with Pilates. Here is a look at what he accomplished in his first 30 sessions. Sessions 1-10 Sessions Sessions Warm Up: Fundamental Roll Down Standing x3 Pelvic Curl Spine Twist Supine Chest Lift Chest Lift w/ Rotation Warm Up: Fundamental + Roll Down Standing x3 Pelvic Curl (Sessions 11-20) Spine Twist Supine (Sessions 11-20) Chest Lift (Sessions 11-15) Chest Lift w/ Rotation (Sessions 11-15) Double Leg Stretch (Sessions 16-20) Single Leg Stretch (Sessions 16-20) Criss Cross (Sessions 16-20) Warm Up: Intermediate Cadillac Warm Up Series (Sessions 21-25) Roll Up w/ Roll Up Bar Mini Roll-Ups Mini Roll-Ups Oblique Roll-Up Top Loaded Intermediate Mat (Sessions 26-30) Roll Up Spine Twist Supine Double Leg Stretch Single Leg Stretch Criss Cross Footwork: Fundamental Reformer Parallel Heels Parallel Toes V Position Toes Open V Heels Open V Toes Calf Raises Prances Prehensile Single Leg Heel Single Leg Toes Abdominal Work: Fundamental Reformer Hundred Prep (Sessions 1-10) Hundreds (Sessions 3-7) Coordination (Sessions 8-10) Footwork: Fundamental Wunda Chair Parallel Heels Parallel Toes V Position Toes Open V Heels Open V Toes Calf Raises Single Leg Heel Single leg Toes Abdominal Work: Intermediate Wunda Chair/Step Barrel Pike Sitting (Sessions 11-15) Cat Stretch Kneeling (Sessions 11-20) Teaser Prep (Sessions 16-20) Footwork: Fundamental Cadillac Parallel Heels Parallel Toes V Position Toes Open V Heels Open V Toes Calf Raises Prances Single Leg Heel Single Leg Toes Hip Opener Abdominal Work: Intermediate/Advanced Cadillac Roll-Up Bottom Loaded (Sessions 21-30) Bottom Lift w/ Roll Up Bar (Sessions 21-25) Breathing w/push Through Bar (Sessions 26-30)

7 Hip Work: Fundamental Reformer Frog Circles (Down) Circles (Up) Openings Spinal Articulation: Fundamental Mat/Reformer Spine Stretch (Sessions 1-10) Bottom Lift (Sessions 6-10) Stretches: Fundamental Reformer Standing Lunge Arm Work: Fundamental Arms Supine Series Extension Adduction Up Circles Down Circles Triceps Hip Work: Fundamental + Reformer (Sessions 11-15) Frog Circles (Down, Up) Extended Frog (+ Reverse) Step Barrel Supine Leg Series (Sessions 16-20) Frog Openings Scissors Helicopter Bicycle (+ Reverse) Spinal Articulation: Intermediate Wunda Chair/Reformer Pelvic Curl (Sessions 11-20) Bottom Lift w/ Extensions (Sessions 11-15) Semi-Circle (Sessions 16-20) Stretches: Fundamental/Intermediate Reformer Standing Lunge (Sessions 11-15) Kneeling Lunge (Sessions 16-20) Full Body Integration: Fundamental/Intermediate Reformer Scooter (Sessions 11-20) Up Stretch 1 (Sessions 11-15) Elephant (Sessions 11-15) Down Stretch (Sessions 16-20) Up Stretch 2 (Sessions 16-20) Arm Work: Intermediate Arms Sitting Series (Sessions 11-15) Chest Expansion Biceps Rhomboids Hug-A-Tree Salute Arms Kneeling Series (Sessions 16-20) Chest Expansion Up Circles, Down Circles Triceps Biceps Hip Work: Fundamental/Intermediate Cadillac Supine Leg Series (Sessions 21-25) Frog Circles (Down, Up) Walking Bicycles Single Leg Supine (Sessions 26-30) Frog Circles (Down, Up) Hip Extension Bicycle Spinal Articulation: Intermediate+ Mat/Step Barrel Roll Over, Mat (Sessions 21-25) Open Leg Rocker (Sessions 21-30) Roll Over, Step Barrel (Sessions 26-30) Stretches: Fundamental/ Intermediate Step Barrel Shoulder Stretch Lying Side Kneeling Lunge Full Body Integration: Intermediate Cadillac (Sessions 21-25) Push Through Series -Sitting Forward -Side Reach -Kneeling Cat Stretch + Thigh Stretch w/ Roll Up Bar Reformer (Sessions 26-30) Stomach Massage Series -Round Back -Flat Back -Reaching Arm Work: Intermediate Cadillac (Sessions 21-25) Push Through Series -Shoulder Adduction Single Arm -Shoulder Adduction Double Arm -Sitting Side Prep/Scapula Glide -Sitting Side (Sessions 23-25) Reformer (Sessions 26-30) Rowing Series -Rowing Back 1 -Rowing Back 2 -Rowing Front 1 -Rowing Front 2

8 Leg Work: Fundamental/ Intermediate Wunda Chair Leg Press Standing (Sessions 1-10) Hip Opener (Sessions 2-6) Frog Front (Sessions 7-10) Lateral Flexion/Rotation: Fundamental Wunda Chair/Ladder Barrel Side Stretch (Sessions 1-5) Side Over Prep (Sessions 6-10) Back Extension: Fundamental Reformer Breaststroke Prep Full Body Integration: Intermediate Reformer Long Stretch (Sessions 16-20) Leg Work: Intermediate Wunda Chair/ Reformer Backward Step Down (Sessions 16-20) Hip Opener (Sessions 11-20) Single Leg Skating (Sessions 11-20) Lateral Flexion/Rotation: Intermediate Reformer Mermaid (Sessions 11-15) Side Over on Box (Sessions 16-20) Back Extension: Intermediate Wunda Chair/Reformer Swan on Floor (Sessions 11-15) Breaststroke (Sessions 16-20) Full Body Integration: Advanced Cadillac (Sessions 21-25) Push Through Series -Saw -Sitting Back Reformer (Sessions 26-30) Balance Control Front (Sessions 21-30) Long Back Stretch (Sessions 21-23) Balance Control Back Prep (Sessions 24-26) Balance Control Back (Sessions 27-30) Leg Work: Advanced Cadillac Lying Side Series Changes Scissors Circles Forward Circles Back Lateral Flexion/Rotation: Intermediate/Advanced Cadillac (Sessions 21-25) Push Through Series -Side Lift Cadillac (Sessions 26-30) Butterfly Back Extension: Intermediate Cadillac Push Through Series -Prone 1 (Sessions 21-25) -Prone 2 (Sessions 26-30) Ending Stretch: Ladder Barrel Shoulder Stretch 1 (Sessions 1-10) Shoulder Stretch 2 (Sessions 4-10) Hip Flexors (Sessions 1-10) + 1 Standing Roll Down for Alignment Evaluation Ending Stretch: Ladder Barrel Gluteals (Sessions 16-20) Hamstrings (Sessions 11-20) Hip Flexors (Sessions 11-15) Shoulder Stretch 1 (Sessions 11-20) Shoulder Stretch 2 (Sessions 11-20) + 1 Standing Roll Down for Alignment Evaluation Ending Stretch: Ladder Barrel Hamstrings (Sessions 21-30) Adductors (Sessions 21-30) Hip Flexors (Sessions 21-25) Shoulder Stretch 1 (Sessions 26-30) + 1 Standing Roll Down for Alignment Evaluation

9 I carefully constructed Jake s Pilates sessions to meet his goals by using the BASI Pilates Block System. In discussing and researching the intense and precise sport of rock climbing, I found that the Principles of Pilates are just as essential when they are applied to this activity. Although rock climbing may seem like an intense, jarring sport, professional climbers use awareness, balance, breath, concentration, center, control, efficiency, flow, precision, and harmony all to the fullest extent. Their muscles must be engaged, yet relaxed, allowing them to move fluidly through various strenuous positions. Their breathing must be controlled through the flow of the movement. The climber s focus and positioning must be precise as their center of gravity is often unnaturally situated. In his conditioning program, we focused on these principles so that he could begin to apply them in his Pilates sessions as well as with his climbing to improve technique and optimize his performance. Aside from the importance of the principles, I hand-picked his session repertoire to meet the goals we set to strengthen his back extensors, release the tightened and shortened pectoral muscles and anterior deltoids, recruit the latissimus dorsi, serratus anterior, middle and lower trapezius. We also wanted to release the levator scapula which runs from the cervical spine to the scapula to better correct Jake s worsening forward thrusting neck. Within Jake s first 10 sessions, my immediate goal was to begin releasing the erector spinae to begin the process of mobilizing his spine so that his back extensors could do their job and extend his thoracic spine, I focused also on opening his tight hip flexors, as well as stretching his pectoral muscles and anterior deltoid. Originally, I had planned to only have him perform spine stretch the first five sessions and then progress to bottom lift, but I saw that spine stretch was doing wonders for the mobility and relaxation of his spine, the erector spinae and even releasing his tight hamstrings and quadratus lumborum, so I decided to keep spine stretch along with the bottom lift on the reformer for sessions Even though hip opener on the Wunda Chair is part of the intermediate repertoire, it was essential to relax and release Jake s stubborn hip joints. Possibly the most noteworthy part of the repertoire of the first 10 sessions was Breaststroke Prep. I kept this as Jake s back extension block for all 10 sessions because with each controlled push and extension, I could see him recruiting his lats and the spinal extensors, which were all loosening up the shoulder and enabling the external rotation of the joint and the depression of the scapula. During these first 10 sessions, Jake was also strengthening his core, especially when working the spinal muscles. This is because Pilates often requires a skilled contraction of different spinal muscle groups at the same time, a process called cocontraction even though the spinal extensors are the muscles being focused on for strength, a cocontraction of the abdominals is used to limit the magnitude of hyperextension that occurs in the lower back and help protect the lumbar spine, which is very vulnerable to injury (Pilates Anatomy). We will continue to focus on the concept of cocontraction throughout Jake s program to optimize the engagement of his core while recruiting back extensors and other muscle groups while climbing. The next 10 sessions were full of progress for Jake s goals of spinal mobility, hip mobility, and external rotation of the shoulders. Adding a more difficult abdominal warm up in

10 the last 5 sessions helped Jake recruit the transversus abdominis, the deepest layer of abdominal muscles, throughout the rest of each session. Warming up with the engagement of the transversus abdominis is like putting on a corset for the rest of the session that tightens the abdominals and obliques and zips the ribs closed. Jake noticed that the more abdominal warm ups we added, the more stable and controlled his session felt, which contributed to precise and fluid movements. Jake performed the footwork series on the Wunda Chair, where we focused on slow, controlled movements and the stabilization of his torso. Cocontraction of his spinal extensors and abdominals was a priority for this series. Also in the last 5 of these sessions, I gave Jake hip work on the step barrel. This allowed him to relax the spinal extensors, open up the spine, and focus on the recruitment of the latissimus dorsi in order to keep his shoulders from raising. Our main goal for this series was to gain mobility in his hips while strengthening the abdominals. In sessions 11-15, Jake executed Bottom Lift with Extensions which I chose to ultimately help him recruit his hamstrings and gluteals and put less strain on his hip flexors. In all of the sessions 11-20, we kept this same idea and focus on his hamstrings while he performed Pelvic Curl on the Wunda Chair. The last 5 sessions, in lieu of Bottom Lift with Extensions, I gave Jake Semi-Circle. This was so good for his body in so many ways. First, we still focused on the engagement of his hamstrings and the release of his hip flexors. Second, cocontraction played a major role between hamstring and quadriceps and the abdominals and back extensors. Third, the articulation of the spine into slight hyperextension helped mobilize the lumbar spine without putting stress on the vertebrae, and last, the flexion of his arms overhead provided a shoulder stretch which opened up and rotated back his rounded shoulders. The back-extension block is always my favorite for most clients, and especially for Jake. In I had him execute Swan on Floor on the Wunda Chair and Breaststroke on the reformer. He began to grasp the acknowledgement for each muscle and group needed for these exercises, such as the trapezius muscles, lats, teres minor, rhomboids, subscapularis, infraspinatus, and supraspinatus. I also wanted him to focus not only on scapular stability in this block, but on elbow stability. This required the cocontraction of the biceps and triceps. For most of these next 10 sessions, Jake focused on precision and breathing, since a big focus was joint mobility, he wanted to make sure he was utilizing the full potential of breath with each movement. Joseph Pilates himself said above all, learn to breathe correctly. Sessions with Jake were still about joint mobility and opening up the tight areas, but with an emphasis on stability and strengthening the muscles of the shoulder girdle to provide proper support for the proper and neutral aligned joints. When we reached these sessions, I observed progress in the counteracting of the kyphotic effects Jake has suffered from pursuing rock climbing. Progress manifested in the form of better posture, strengthened back extensors, cocontracted hip flexors and quadratus lumborum resulting in healthier alignment with fewer imbalances. What I noticed most, however, was awareness. When Jake walked into the studio, he came in already in tune with his body, he told me how his shoulders pulling back make him stand taller from the top of his head, as if the imaginative plumb line is pulling his

11 spine straighter. Bringing awareness to the body and the intricacies of movement establishes a foundation for change. Without awareness, little can be accomplished (Isacowitz, Pilates 6). When we worked through the last 10 sessions, much of which was executed on the Cadillac, I began to avoid telling him which muscles were the agonists. Instead I asked him where the muscle focus was and which muscles were we trying to strengthen and correct and he could name them. The Push-Through Series was one of the most difficult for him at first because so many require slight movement. It was important for Jake to understand the concept of Scapula Glide. I was glad I gave it to him at this point because we spent so many sessions focusing on the stabilization of the scapula, that it was good to get his body to be able to mobilize them while still executing precision and control with the shoulder girdle. If I gave it to him in earlier sessions, the focus of the exercise would have been lost without proper knowledge of stability, yet the last 5 sessions I did not give him the Push-Through Series and the Scapula Glide because I wanted to end on a strong, stable note. The Rowing Series on the reformer was important for Jake to do because of the myriad different focuses throughout each part of the series. Back extensors, abdominals, external rotation of the shoulder joints with scapular stabilization, elbow joint control, and breathing were our priorities for the series and, by the last session, all were fluidly executed. We ended every session 1-30 with stretches on the ladder barrel selectively chosen for each individualized session to sustain mobility of the joints and length of the muscles. For him to continue doing on his own at home or at the gym, I also taught Jake the pole series for shoulder stretching and releasing the pectoral muscles, as well as a shoulder stretch lying with the foam roller along the spine. On that, he holds his arms in an I dream of genie position and, while keeping the abs engaged and his spine imprinted on the roller, he raises his arms above his head. This should help to continually counteract the tendency toward rounded shoulders and stretch the anterior deltoid, pectoral muscles, and the rotator cuffs without too much stress on the joints. Conclusion Rock climbers, such as Jake, are at an increased risk for developing and worsening a kyphotic posture. Without taking care to counteract muscle imbalances, kyphosis can cause difficulty breathing, fatigue, back pain, rounded shoulders, a hunchback appearance, and spinal stiffness and tenderness. Imbalances that affect body alignment or result from misalignment are important factors in many painful postural positions (Isacowitz, Pilates 6). Unlike some severe cases in which people are born with kyphosis that may only be corrected surgically, by practicing the classical Pilates method, Jake was able to strengthen his weak spinal extensors enabling mobility in the Thoracic spine. Combined with stretching of the pectoral muscles and anterior deltoid resulting in chest expansion and recruitment of the latissimus dorsi, teres minor, middle and lower trapezius, and serratus anterior, Jake could reverse his tendency toward rounded shoulders. Once the rounded shoulders and kyphotic thoracic spine are

12 corrected, the cervical spine is more easily addressed and the postural ailment of a forward thrusting neck can be acknowledged. The upper trapezius and levator scapula will then begin to release and strengthen as proper posture and alignment are practiced. When these muscles all work in harmony, they act to correct and support the thoracic spine, cervical spine, shoulders, and scapulae in a neutral spine alignment. When sports or activities begin to cause imbalances to the point where performance and technique are inhibited, it is important to rehabilitate the muscles and joints. Not only will it improve skill, but it will prevent potentially serious injury. The Pilates conditioning program designed for and executed by Jake, in our case study, was successful in counteracting the kyphotic effect rock climbing tends to impose on the spine and shoulders. In conclusion, Pilates safely corrected and will continually protect the body through patience, persistence, and awareness. To achieve the highest accomplishments within the scope of our capabilities in all walks of life we must constantly strive to acquire strong, healthy bodies and develop our minds to the limits of our ability. -Joseph Pilates

13 Works Cited Griffith, Melissa. Climbing.com. N.p., 14 June Web. Isacowitz, Rael, and Karen S. Clippinger. Pilates Anatomy. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics, Print. Isacowitz, Rael. Pilates. Second ed. Champaign, IL: Human Kinetics, Print. Isacowitz, Rael. Study Guide: Comprehensive Course. Costa Mesa, California: Body Arts and Science International. "Kyphosis." MedlinePlus Medical Encyclopedia. Elsevier Saunders, Aug.-Sept Web.