Natural Active Ingredients From Plant Stem Cells to Preserve Skin Functions

Transcription

1 ISTITUTO DI RICERCHE BIOTECNOLOGICHE Natural Active Ingredients From Plant Stem Cells to Preserve Skin Functions Roberto Dal Toso In-Cosmetics, Barcelona April 18th 2012

2 QUALITY AND SAFETY OF PLANT ACTIVE SUBSTANCES HAVE ALWAYS BEEN A PROBLEM The presence of pollutants as pesticides, heavy metals and aflatoxins is detected in many plant actives and extracts SAFETY Many problems due to difficult accessibility of plants compromise the availability of Natural Active Substances AVAILABILITY The variability in the concentration of active substances is a limit to the reproducibility of the biological effect STANDARDIZATION IN A ECO- SUSTAINABLE WAY *Blumenthal M: Natural Marketing Institute measures consumer use of herbal products. HerbalGram 2000;50:70.

3 PLANT CELL CULTURES ARE AN ALTERNATIVE TO OVERCOME THESE PROBLEMS Only a small amount of plant tissue is required to find specific active substances Plant tissue Sampling of sterilized tissues Callus induction in solid culture CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT Callogenesis

4 PLANT CELL CULTURES ARE AN ALTERNATIVE TO OVERCOME THESE PROBLEMS This small amount, however, requires inin-depth scientific and technological knowledge Callogenesis increases New cell line Selection CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT Scaling Up

5 THE IRB PROCESS GENERATES 3 DIFFERENT CATEGORIES OF PRODUCTS STEMS, HTN ACTIVES SUBSTANCES CTIVES UP TILL PURE Bioreactor Homogenization Filtration Extraction Standardized Extract IRB Products Phyto Complex STEMS STEMS Actives PURE SUBSTANCE High titre standardized dry extract

6 KEY ADVANTAGES FOR PRODUCER AND CUSTOMERS ARE OFFERED BY IRB GREEN BIOTECH APPROACH Assuring 100% No environmental contaminants or crop quality since cells grow in a sterile medium which secures the absence of pesticides, heavy metals and aflatoxins Full access to natural substances included rare and difficult to synthetize substances Totally eco-friendly approach Higher safety Highest titre available up to 85% Low Impact of odor and taste Non GMO

7 HOWEVER ALSO PLANT STEM CELLS ARE EXPOSED TO CHANGE Active substance content may change in cell cultures due to: cell proliferation, cellular senescence and different cell culture conditions all of which result in differences or loss of biological properties

8 THE SOLUTION: IRB CHARACTERIZED STEMS? Phenylpropanoids HPLC analysis and deep metabolomic scrutiny are applied to characterize and allow an efficient selection process to achieve CHARACTERIZED STEMS

9 ONE STEP FURTHER: POWERFUL STEMS STANDARDIZATION AND REPRODUCIBLE EFFICACY REQUIRE QUANTIFICATION OF CELL LINE SPECIFIC BIOACTIVES POWERFUL STEMS HAVE A TITRATED AMOUNT IN ACTIVES SUBSTANCES

10 POWERFUL STEMS THE TITRATION IN SPECIFIC ACTIVES IS NOT ONLY AN OBJECTIVE MEASURE OF THE EFFICACY OF PLANT STEM CELLS BUT ALSO A RELIABLE WAY TO QUANTIFY THE BENEFITS IN TERMS OF ECO-SUSTAINABILITY

11 POWERFUL STEMS: SUSTAINABILE EFFICACY The extraction of echinacoside requires a 3-year soil cultivation of Echinacea before collecting roots. Source: Agronomical trials on E. angustifolia, E. pallida, E. purpurea; ISAFA 2002/1; G. Nebbia, The cost in water of goods and services, University of Rome, 18-19th January 2004, International Water Culture Centre

12 POWERFUL STEMS: SUSTAINABILE EFFICACY The extraction of echinacoside requires a 3-year soil cultivation of Echinacea before collecting roots. HTN is an eco-sustainable GREEN biotech process: PRESERVING BIODIVERSITY NEGLIGEABLE SOIL OCCUPANCY: SOIL CAN BE CULTIVATED FOR FOOD DRASTIC REDUCTION OF WATER AND SOLVENTS USE AND NO USE OF PESTICIDES Source: Agronomical trials on E. angustifolia, E. pallida, E. purpurea; ISAFA 2002/1; G. Nebbia, The cost in water of goods and services, University of Rome, 18-19th January 2004, International Water Culture Centre

13 WE CAN SAVE WATER = 170 liters of water One customer using 6 units of 50 ml cream can save 1 ton of water per year

14 HE IRB STEMS G TM THE COSMETIC TM PORTFOLIO PRODUCTS IS YEARLY ENRICHED BY NEW PRODUCTS ECHINACEA ANGUSTIFOLIA The antistres boost for dull and tired skin Launch 2012: Ecocert LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM The biotech ecosustainable anti aging solution Launch 2011: 1st titrated BUDDLEJA DAVIDII Broad and effective protection from photo damage and oxidative stress Launch 2012: 2nd titrated CENTELLA ASIATICA Deep firming activity to improve skin tone and elasticity Launch 2012: Ecocert GARDENIA JASMINOIDE Broad and unrivaled protection of collagen system Launch 2012: Ecocert MARRUBIUM VULGARIS The first and unique third generation antioxidant assuring a multiphase protection

15 Edelweiss Powerful Stems Edelweiss has developed many defensive mechanisms in order to survive the extreme heights and protect itself from high level exposure to solar radiations. Scientific studies have demonstrated the presence in the plant of powerful antioxidants as Leontopodic Acid A and B, Clororogenic Acid and 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid and other substances with anti-inflammatory and cytoprotective properties. FEATURES: Preparation of 20% of Leontopodium alpinum stem cells in plant glycerine titrated at 0.1% of leontopodic acid A, without preservatives INCI NAME: Glycerin, Leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture, xanthan gum

16 Powerful Stems with Leontopodic Acids O HO R OH O O OH HO O O HO O O O OH leontopodic acid A R = H 3 C OH O O leontopodic acid B R = H HO OH Edelweiss Powerful Stems titrated at 0.1% of leontopodic acid A CREATED BY NATURE, MADE AVAILABLE THROUGH HTN BIOTECHNOLOGY

17 In vitro results THE WHY strong performances LEONTOPODIUM ALPINUM STEMS G TM is rich of substances with antioxidant activity, 3 times higher than vitamin C It has also anti-collagenase and anti-hyaluronidase activity

18 20 subjects THE CLINICAL EVIDENCE twice a day face treatment of 40 days with a O/W cream containing 1% of Leontopodium alpinum stems G at 20 and 40 days Photographic records and microprofile evaluation of the eye contour area by skin scanner before after 22 days Leontopodium alpinum stems G reduces by 15% wrinkle depth of the eye contour area after only 22 days of treatment.

19 THE CLINICAL EVIDENCE microprofile evaluation of the eye contour area by skin scanner 0 days 22 days 40 days Leontopodium alpinum stems G TM reduces by 18% wrinkle depth of the eye contour area after 40 days of treatment with a clear replenishment of skin texture.

20 BUDDLEJA DAVIDII STEMS G Powerful Stems THE WHEN Effective and broad protection from photodamage and oxidative stress FEATURES: Preparation of 20% of Buddleja davidii stem cells in plant glycerine titrated at 0.2% of verbascoside, without preservatives INCI NAME: Glycerin, Buddleja davidii meristem cell culture, xanthan gum

21 Buddleja davidii Powerful Stems Titrated at 0,2% of verbascoside HO CH 2 OH O O OH OH HO COO O H OH OH O CH 3 OH OH Verbascoside is a phenylpropanoid Antioxidant Activity Anti inflammatory Activity Sebum regulating Activity

22 ANTI-AGING PHOTOPROTECTION: ANTI-NECROTIC EFFECT OF VERBASCOSIDE UVA/UVB, (total dose 2.5 J/cm 2 ) Control Verbascoside 200 µm Experimental model: normal human epidermal keratinocytes (primary culture)

23 The broad approach assures visible benefit THE WHY THE 3 LEVEL APPROACH Comprehensive approach on the 3 main mechanisms of photoaging: protection from UV-induced oxidative stress inhibition of inflammation control of UV-induced matrix metallo proteinase (MMP) activation

24 In vitro results THE WHY broad approach Anti oxidant activity Buddleja davidii stems GTM has an antioxidant activity significantly higher than that of common natural antioxidant benchmarks. * IC50: concentration of a substance required for reducing at 50% the DPPH free radical.

25 In vitro results THE WHY broad approach ANTI-INFLAMMATORY ACTIVITY Verbascoside shows a strong anti-inflammatory activity since it induces a dose-dependent decrease of the expression of the pro-inflammatory chemokine IL-8 on primary cultures of human keratinocytes stimulated by TNF-α.

26 THE CLINICAL EVIDENCE STUDY DESIGN 5-days daily treatment of a skin area with a O/W cream with 2% of Buddleja davidii stems G or the placebo cream fixed dose UV irradiation (5 J /cm 2 ) skin tape stripping of treatment and placebo areas and determination of lipid peroxidation and total antioxidant capacity - before the UV irradiation - 4 and 24 hours after irradiation

27 THE CLINICAL EVIDENCE Buddleja davidii stems G demostrates to assure a braod and higly effective protection against UVA-photodamage, even vs placebo: Significant preservation of the lipid component of the skin from oxidative stress (LPO) Significant increase of the antioxidant resistance of the skin (FRAP)

28 Buddleja davidii stems G THE HOW boosting skin resistance to oxidative stress prevention of photo-aging damages prevention of intrinsic aging prevention of post-inflammatory spots RECOMMENDED CONCENTRATION: 0,5 5 % FORMULATION GUIDELINES: Compatible with O/W emulsions, serum,... ph 6 introducing during the cooling phase

29 Conclusions HTN PLANT CELL TECHNOLOGY ALLOWS TO MEET CRUCIAL NEEDS IN COSMETICS EFFICACY: DUE TO PROVEN PRESENCE OF AND HIGLY BIOLOGICAL ACTIVES CONTAINED IN POWERFUL STEMS INSPIRATION AND INNOVATION COMPLIANCE WITH THE SUSTAINABILITY REQUEST

30 THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION Visit our Stand at X36

31 IN THE PLANTS PHENYLPROPANOIDS ARE PRESENT IN THE MERISTEM CELLS In plant cell cultures, all cells are meristem cells, but high content of phenylpropanoids needs to be selected to provide Powerful Stems

32 COSMETIC THE IRB HTN PORTFOLIO PRODUCTS DERMASYR Complete treatment for ACNE and SEBUM Related Disorders ECHIGENA 25 HTN Protection and Rejuvenation of SENSITIVE AND TIRED skin