Fermentation Transforming Everyday Meal into Rejuvenating Cosmetic Ingredient. RiFerm & MYFerm

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1 In-cosmetics 2016 Innovation Seminar Fermentation Transforming Everyday Meal into Rejuvenating Cosmetic Ingredient RiFerm & MYFerm Joonseok Cha, Ph.D. General Manager of Research Center F80

2 Fermentation generally means the process by which human can get useful organic matters from microbial metabolisms, and more specifically, biological energy production without oxygen. Microorganisms hydrolyze organic polymers into various smaller molecules (useful by-products) to yield energy for their growth. Korean traditional fermentation has naturally expanded the repertoire of culinary, medicinal and cosmetic recipes in a similar way to the production of natto or cheese.

3 1. Absorption Accelerated The space between epidermal cells is only around 70 nm, limiting the absorption of big polymers. Smaller molecules produced by the fermentation process can pass through outer surface and reach inner dermal cells more easily. 2. Benefits Enriched As metabolic by-products, microorganisms can provide lots of nutrients such as vitamins, nucleotides, oligosaccharides, amino acids, and their derivatives. 3. Safety Enhanced Traditional fermentation methods have been modified through centuries to accumulate huge knowledge on the efficacy and safety of the applications. We can make advantage of them to produce safe ingredients while using complex natural products.

4 Pharmaceutical use of Pinellia ternata in Korean and Chinese Traditional Medicine - The toxic raw plants must be processed by fermentation. Fermentations of Sophora flavescens and Ixeris dentata enhanced the anti-inflammatory and the anti-allergic effects, respectively. - Han et al BMC Complement Altern Med - Park et al J Microbiol Biotechnol Many fermented products, however, have disadvantageous smell, color or texture for cosmetic products. Optimization of fermentation condition is critical.

5 RiFerm Rice has been the most important food in East Asia for thousands of years. Rice water, light extract of rice grains by washing out loosely bound substances, has been traditionally used as facial and hair wash for centuries by Korean women to improve skin and hair health. Recently, rice water is popular as natural fertilizer after treated with proper microbes. We successfully developed optimal condition to transform rice extract into active cosmetic ingredient. Product Name: RiFerm INCI Name: Dosage: % Yeast Ferment Extract/ Oryza Sative(Rice) Extract

6 Log No. of CFU Optimal Level of Microbial Growth optimized fermentation converted milky transparent solution Before After Optimized Fermentation while keeping the healthy growth common media rice extract before YM broth Rice sup.

7 Advantage of Fermentation Before After Optimized Fermentation Light microscope 400X (KRÜSS, Germany)

8 Chemical Analysis of Fermentation Process HPLC-PDA

9 Efficacy Tests reduction of intracellular ROS generation collagen-boosting after fermentation HDFn cells

10 Relative permittivity (Ԑ) Efficacy Tests Skin Moisturizing 8 volunteers (Age yrs) temporary monitoring 15 Riferm 10 control before 30min 1hr 3hr 5h 210 b b b Epsilon (Biox Systems, UK) c 180 a RiFerm Placebo 150 Long-term Analysis (twice a day for 15 days) day 4 day 7 day 12day 15day Corneometer (DermaScan, Denmark)

11 skin density thickness (μm) Efficacy Tests Skin Density & Thickness 8 volunteers (Age yrs) Day * * * P value < 0.05, paired t-test, n=9 100 Ultrasound monitor (20MHz, resol. 60x260, DermaScan, Denmark)

12 RiFerm INCI Name: Yeast Ferment Extract / Oryza Sative (Rice) Extract Dosage: 1-99 % Formulation: Storage: Add to the formulation when the temperature is lower than 55 C. Recommended to add after the cooling process. Avoid direct light or UV. Keep it in a cool and dry area.

13 MYFerm Undaria pinnatifida is commonly called sea mustard in English, mi-yok in Korean, and wakame in Japanese. It is an edible brown seaweed native to and growing in East Asia. In traditional medicine, this seaweed is well-known for blood purification and detoxification. MYFerm is a liquid fermented extract of U. pinnatifida by L. acidophilus to break down complex polymers for better penetration and absorption of active compounds into the skin. Product Name: MYFerm INCI Name: Undaria Pinnatifida Extract Lactobacillus Ferment Dosage: 1 %

14 Story of Mi-Yok Soup According to a Chinese history book, Chohaki ( 初學記 ) written in the 8 th century, in Korea, women delivered a baby used to eat sea mustard soup, and the Korean people learned this from whales eating sea mustard to cure their wounds after giving a birth. 1: 3: Naver 1 1: A whale eating sea mustards 2: A man swallowed by a Whale 3: Sea mustard soup 3 2 Another folklore tells about eating sea mustard soup customs in Korea. A man swallowed by a mother whale found that sea mustard inside of whale cured whale s wound. After having escaped from whale s inside, he told the people about the efficacy of sea mustard, and since that time, Korean women started to eat sea mustard soup after giving a birth.

15 Mi-Yok in South Korea 1 2 Harvesting sea mustards by Haenyo Sea farming 4 Dried sea mustards as products Photos from Naver doopedia and The Academy of Korean Studies 3 Drying process

16 ph value Lactobacillus Fermentation The cell wall of U. pinnatifida is firm and composed of active polysaccharides such as fucoidan and alginate approximately 20-40%. Pretreated U. pinnatifida is fermented by L. acidophilus (2-step process), breaking down complex polymers to improve penetration and absorption of active compounds into the skin. L. acidophilus Decomposition of cell wall materials by L. acidophilus Cellulose fibers ph changing Phospholipid Protein 5 U. pinnatifida Fucoidan/Alginate matrix Lactic acid bacteria 0 Raw U. pin Fermented U. pin

17 Optimizing Fermentation bacterial ph value ph 5 : acidified during cell growth AU Minutes incubated with pre-grown culture AU Minutes AU Minutes

18 Fastin Elastin assay (% of control) PIP (% of control) Efficacy Tests Anti-wrinkle Effects collagen-boosting after fermentation Before Fermentation After Fermentation 50 0 control Concentration (%, v/v) in test medium elastin-induction control treated with MYFerm HDFn cells

19 MYFerm INCI Name: Undaria Pinnatifida Extract / Lactobacillus Ferment Dosage: 1-99 % Formulation: Storage: Add to the formulation when the temperature is lower than 55 C. Recommended to add after the cooling process. Avoid direct light or UV. Keep it in a cool and dry area.

20 RiFerm & MYFerm : to make everyday your B-day

21 F80 Thank you

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