PRODEW The New Amino Acid Blend for Hair Care

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1 PRODEW The New Amino Acid Blend for Hair Care April 17th, 2007

2 Introduction Skin, Hair and Amino Acids The Stratum Corneum NH 3,Uric acid, Glucosamine, Creatinine Na, K, Ca, Mg, PO 4, Cl Others Amino acids Keratinocyte Intercellular Lipid Layer Urea Lactate PCA Medulla Cortex Cuticle Cortical/Cuticle Cells Cell Membrane Complex? 2

3 Introduction Hair and Amino Acids Amino acids provided externally are known to interact with the hair to give various cosmetic effects, i.e. moisturizing, strengthening structure, and colorprotect. 3

4 PRODEW PRODEW 500 PRODEW 500 is amino acids cocktail, designed for the efficient application of PCA and amino acids in hair care preparation. Components Concentration Sodium PCA and PCA 19 Arginine 7 Amino Acids Mix 7 Sodium Lactate 12 Aspartic Acid 4 Water 50 4

5 PRODEW PRODEW 500 -Characteristics A total of 18% of high quality amino acids are blended. The premix solution of 11 kinds of amino acids easy to handle. Almost odorless and colorless 5

6 Outline Designing PRODEW 500-1: PCA and Arginine Interaction between PCA, Arginine and Hair Color Protection by PCA Designing PRODEW 500-2: Amino Acids Mixture Amino Acids Mix and Cell Membrane Complex Improvement of Hair Luster by PRODEW 500 Application of PRODEW 500 Summary 6

7 PRODEW Designing PRODEW 500 Components Concentration Sodium PCA and PCA 20 Arginine 7 Amino Acids Mix 7 Sodium Lactate 12 Aspartic Acid 4 Water 50 Part 1 Part 2 7

8 Designing PRODEW 500 Part 1 PCA and Arginine

9 PCA & Arginine Sodium PCA (AJIDEW NL-50) PCA is derived from L-Glutamic acid in the skin. Sodium PCA for hair care Moisturizing Conditioning Color protect O COO - Na + N H 9

10 PCA & Arginine Uptake of PCA the ph Dependence Interaction of PCA and hair is relatively weak at ph range between 4 and PCA PCA PCA (mg/g-hair) COOH COO - ph 3 ph ph 10

11 PCA & Arginine Arginine has Strong Affinity for Hair Arginine bears cationic charge below pk 2 =9.0, so has strong affinity for hair at ph over about 4. Arginine Recovery (mmol/g-hair) Affinity 10to acidic groups on hair surface 0 L-Arg COOH COO - ph of Arginine ph 3 ph Solution 6 Removed by acidic buffer solution Removed by water 11

12 PCA & Arginine Use of Arginine as an Anchor By combination with Arginine the uptake of PCA is enhanced. 4.0 L-PCA 5wt%, ph 7.2 N=3, mean ± S.D. PCA (mg/g-hair) PCA-Arg PCA-Na 12

13 PCA & Arginine Sodium PCA for Hair Care Moisturizing Conditioning Color protect O COO - Na + N H 13

14 PCA & Arginine Effects of Sodium PCA for Oxidative Coloring Test Formulations Hair Conditioner Cetrimonium Choloride 2.5 Ceteareth Cetyl alcohol 4.0 Methylpraben 0.2 Citric acid ph 3.0 Water balance Total Amodimethicone PCA-Na 2% PCA-Na 2% + Arginine 0.4% Hair Shampoo Na Laureth Sulfate 7.56 Cocamidopropyl betaine 1.20 Pearlizing agent 4.00 Preservatives q.s NaCl 2.00 Citric acid ph 5.8 Water balance Total

15 PCA & Arginine Effects of Sodium PCA for Oxidative Coloring Test Design White Yak Hair Dye treatment a* initial Post-dye conditioner treatment a* after treatment Shampoo x 3 Conditioner x 1 X 6-12 cycles a* after wash a* 15

16 PCA & Arginine Effects of Sodium PCA for Oxidative Coloring Hair Dye: red shade, the emulsion formula. Dye precursors and direct dyes Toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate, 2-Methylresorcinol, 4- amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 4- Amino-m-cresol. Developer: 9% Hydrogen peroxide. Prior to use the two components are mixed 1:1 (w/w). The ph of this mixture is approximately

17 PCA & Arginine Sodium PCA Improves Hair Color Shade After 12 wash Vivid Post-dye treatment 6 wash 12 wash a* Control PCA-Na 2% PCA-Na 1% Arginine 0.4% N=3, mean ± S.D. Amodimethicone 17

18 Designing PRODEW 500-2: Amino Acids Mix in PRODEW 500

19 Amino Acids Mix Composition of Amino Acids Mix The composition of Amino Acids Mix is modeled after the constituent amino acids of protein in Cell Membrane Complex (CMC). Asp Glu Thr Ser Pro Tyr Gly Ala Leu Val Ile Phe His Lys Arg Constituent amino acids of protein in CMC* Amino Acids Mix of PRODEW 500 *Cys and Met are excluded. J. A. Swift et. al., Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemist, 25, 355,(1974) 19

20 Amino Acids Mix Cell Membrane Complex Intercellular cement for cuticle and cortex Non-keratinous region Continuous structure from surface to inside Responsible for swelling of hair Similar composition easier to penetrate? Target of alkali, oxidant, and reductant Destroyed by 10-20% extension cuticle decementation Likely to be lost then replenish! 20

21 Amino Acids Mix Improvement of Hair Luster by PRODEW 500 PRODEW 500 imparts luster and brilliant appearance to hair. Gloss Index (%) in-cosmetics 2007, 0% Paris 2% 5% 0% 2% 5% PRODEW 500 N=3, mean ± S.D. 21

22 Amino Acids Mix Goniophotometric Measurement Diffusional (Background) 30 Specular (Luster) Hair Internal (Color) Detector 22

23 Amino Acids Mix Determination of Gloss Index* Gloss Index = A S (A S + A D ) Specular reflection Intensity A S Diffusional reflection A D Angle F. J. Wortmann et. al., J. Cosmet. Sci., 55,

24 PRODEW PRODEW 500 Specially designed for hair care Components Concentration Sodium PCA and PCA 20 Arginine 7 Amino Acids Mix 7 Sodium Lactate 12 Aspartic Acid 4 Water 50 24

25 Applications of PRODEW 500

26 Applications Recommended Applications Hair shampoos Hair conditioners Post-dye conditioners for ph control Hair masks Hair sprays Hair styling gels. 26

27 Applications Hair Shampoo for Dyed Hair ASUL-4025 (wt ) A AMILITE ACS-12 (30%) 22.0 Lauramidopropyl Hydroxysulatine 18.0 Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate 3.0 Cocamide MEA 1.0 Polyquaternium PRODEW 500 (50%) 5.0 Glycol Distearate 1.0 Preservatives q.s. Water balance B Fragrance q.s. C Citric Acid q.s ph 5.8 4,500-6,000mPa s 27

28 Applications Hair Conditioner AHCP-3 (wt%) A Cetrimonium Chloride (30%) 8.3 Glycerin 2.0 Preservative q.s. Water balance B Steareth Cetyl Alcohol 6.0 Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil 1.0 C PRODEW 500 (50%) 2.0 Citric Acid q.s. Water 10.0 D Fragrance q.s ph 4.0 5,000mPa s 28

29 Applications ALTP-03 Leave-on Hair Conditioner (wt%) A Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.40 Water B Arginine 0.37 Water C Butylene Glycol 3.00 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.20 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil PCA Isostearate 0.20 ELDEW PS ELDEW SL D Dimethicone and Laureth-4 and Laureth E Preservative q.s. Alcohol Fragrance q.s. F PRODEW 500(50%) 1.00 G Disodium EDTA 0.02 Water balance ph 5.5 2,000mPa s 29

30 Summary PRODEW 500 is the amino acids blend, designed for the efficient application of PCA and amino acids in hair care preparation. The combination of PCA-Na and Arginine enhances the uptake of PCA to provide various effects, i. e. moisturizing, conditioning, and color-protect. The amino acids mix of PRODEW 500 modeled after the constituent amino acids of protein in Cell Membrane Complex (CMC). PRODEW 500 imparts luster and brilliant appearance to hair. 30

31 Amino Acids AJINOMOTO, Where Amino Acids are the essence of our Personal Care

32 Thank You!

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