WHITE PAPER PROBLEMS SOLVED: INNOVATIVE ADVANCEMENTS IN WORKING WITH MINERAL UV FILTERS
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1 WHITE PAPER PROBLEMS SOLVED: INNOVATIVE ADVANCEMENTS IN WORKING WITH MINERAL UV FILTERS
2 Visit almost any beach, park or backyard and it s clear people of all ages and types enjoy being out in sun. But public is also becoming increasingly aware of dangers of prolonged sun exposure. Sunburns. Premature aging. Increased risk of skin cancer. To combat se detrimental effects, consumers turn to sun care products. Indeed, sun care products are a $1.9 billion a year industry in U.S., and skin care products featuring sun represent an additional $1.5 billion. Sales of premium products SPF 40 or greater are fastest growing segment, sales rising some percent a year. But today s consumers are also looking for products that are more natural. Sales of natural beauty and personal care products surpassed $7 billion in 01 and are expected to reach $13. billion by 018, a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 9.6 percent. 1 Research reveals that more than half of U.S. female consumers are seeking natural products that do not contain unnecessary ingredients or chemicals. To meet changing demands of today s sun care product consumer, many formulators are turning to mineral UV filters. This paper provides an overview of current challenges in using se filters and explores latest scientific advances that are improving ir performance. PROBLEMS SOLVED: INNOVATIVE ADVANCEMENTS IN WORKING WITH MINERAL UV FILTERS
3 FULFILLING THE PROMISE OF MINERAL UV FILTERS It s not surprising that more sun care formulations are turning to mineral UV filters, such as zinc oxide () and titanium dioxide (TiO ). These minerals are natural ingredients that provide broad-spectrum. TiO is most often used for UVB (90 30nm), but also provides significant UVA (30 400nm). is less effective than TiO for UVB, but is usually more effective in long wavelength UVA part of spectrum. As desirable as mineral UV filters are, re are some definite challenges in integrating m into a successful formulation. Aestic Challenges Consumers may seek out personal care products that are more natural, but y are not willing to sacrifice aestics. There has been a shift in consumer expectations from function and efficacy benefits to sensory and emotional benefits. To ensure that ir products meet se demands, manufacturers are increasingly using a variety of scientific methods to measure consumer responses to products based on senses of sight, smell, touch, taste and hearing. 3 This same attention to consumers sensory reactions in or personal care products is evident in sun care market as well. Consumers now assume that sun care products y buy will be effective, but y also want products that: Spread smoothly Feel good on skin Dry smoothly Do not cause whitening Make m feel good and happy Achieving se desirable sensory characteristics a mineral UV filter can be challenging, but essential for a successful product. After all, most effective sunscreen product is one that consumers will actually use on a regular basis. Formulation Challenges Working mineral powders is often less than desirable since y can pose health risks to workers, and it can be difficult to achieve even of particles. Therefore, most formulators choose to formulate s featuring micronized TiO and particles. These mineral s can provide extremely effective broad-spectrum, but ir effectiveness is dependent on particle size distribution and, to a lesser extent, on particle size. Unfortunately, mineral s tend to form agglomerates, decreasing ir efficacy as well as decreasing ir flowability and desirable skinfeel and increasing ir whitening properties. In addition, mineral s, especially TiO, tend to be photocatalytic, promoting formation of reactive oxygen species and catalyzing decomposition of organic materials. Fortunately, new scientific breakthroughs are easing se challenges. The most effective sunscreen product is one that consumers will actually use on a regular basis. PROBLEMS SOLVED: INNOVATIVE ADVANCEMENTS IN WORKING WITH MINERAL UV FILTERS 3
4 m DioXiDE DiSPErSionS tented coating system and pure photostability science ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY TO IMPROVE PERFORMANCE gap, such as Titanium Dioxide (TiO ), or a direct band gap, such as Zinc Oxide ergy from sun s radiation. This makes m useful as UV filters and as pigments in ately, y By aretightening also photo-active, promoting formation of Distribution reactive oxygen species Tightening Particle Size particle on of organic materials. This is not desired applications, Puttingin UV personal mineral filters care in a concentrated form in a where size distribution and ganic compounds are needed. Commercial surface modifications dispersant not only eliminates needhave to worknot eliminated restricting formation of powered minerals, it also improves and tightens overall s of was needed. IGH PERFORMING agglomerates, coating INC OXIDE mineral particles: ISPERSIONS Improves effectiveness particle size distribution. This is essential since particle size distribution directly affects both aestics and efficacy of a sun care product formulation. This tendency to form agglomerates appears in both TiO and formulations, although issue is more severetitanium in TiO formulations. s highlighting both benefits of photo-protected Dioxide and an of formulation by aestic. Leveraging a patent-protected C3+ coatingway system consisting of Silica moieties bining benefits benefits of aa readily readily bining of One successful of tightening overall particle size increasing amount osilicate), Alkyl groups and Polydimethylsiloxane distribution particles. An effective able Zinc Oxide Oxide (derived from Triethoxycaprylylsilane) ble Zinc is to coat mineral HALLBRITE ZDX HALLBRITE ZDX of light that is reflected of silica moieties (derived primarily coating system consists ourpatented marketphoto leading photostabilizer technology, SolaStay S 1 (Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene) tar s patented Photo tar s Zinc Oxide Oxide (non-nano) 60%, Butyloctyl Butyloctyl Zinc (non-nano) 60%, from tetraorthosilicate), alkyl groups (derived from andintroduced refracted away from ertise, Hallstar s newest additions to toto rtise, Hallstar s newest additions licylate), we ve market how mineral UV filters can be easy to work Salicylate, Salicylate, triethoxycaprylylsilane) and polydimethylsiloxane (derived mineral line include mineral line include skin. w whitening, high performance sunscreens for dimethiconol). customers. from ZDX ZDX and and HallBrite HallBrite Brite rite LO ZDX ZDX PLUS. PLUS. These products Enhances aestics HALLBRITE LO These products This combination forms a complete that surrounds HALLBRITE ZDX coating PLUS ZDX PLUS : % abenefits c t i ve Ti O of Tra nmineral s m i t t a nparticles c e S p e c t ra o f eliminates U V F i l t e r Cgaps. o n c e n Chemical t ra t e s : % a c t i ve Ti O and bine bine benefits of of formulation by Zinc Zinc Oxide Oxide (non-nano) 58%, Butyloctyl ngth d i l u(non-nano) t e d i n C %, A l k y l Butyloctyl B e n z o a t e - Salicylate, 1Salicylate, cm Path Length interactions between particles are virtually eliminated stry-leading performance performance try-leading Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene, Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene, eliminating perceptible and particles no longer form clumps, but rar slide -in Photo technology. technology. in Photo 100 HighlyStable Stable Highly (45 C) (45 C) HallBriteBHB BHB HallBrite Solastay SS Reduces skinsolastay whitening. UniqueCoating Coating Unique IncreasedSPF SPF Increased PFA900 Results &&PFA Results 900 Createsnice, nice,smooth smoothlotion lotion Creates consistencyout outany any consistency particleperception perception particle cgmp cgmp 11 Combine Combine Avobenzone Avobenzone sily able 3+ Coating moieties, roups, ylsiloxane) HallBrite BHB Increased SPF Results -FLO TDX EZ Stable C) Wavelength (nm) Wavelenght (nm) Protected Protected DeliverySystem System Delivery HallB rit TiO (40%) e System System (SilicaBased) Based) (Silica PolarSolvent Solvent Polar mal ening China China Approved Approved rticle ption US PLLUS XP DX ZZD O LLO E right over each or Solubilizer Adds Stability and A Good 40 Eliminates Conglomeration HallBrite BHB BHB Eliminates Conglomeration Conglomeration HallBrite Eliminates Percent Percent Transmittance Transmittance particulates. The feeling HallBrite TDX Plus of grittiness and tackiness HallBrite TDX is reduced and flowability HHaallB la Brritit X is improved, leaving ZZDDX ee OO EEZZ L L F-F -F-F ZZ (60%) (60%)consumers (58%) (58%) B a pleasant Easily Easily HighlyDispersed Dispersed Highly HallBrite HallBrite pourable pourable experience and skin feel. BHB C BHB Before Before Before After After After Using Coated Titanium Particles in a Concentrated Solution Dramatically Reduces Whitening Compared to Traditional Formulations HallBrite EZ-Flo tdx Product A HallBrite EZ-Flo tdx Plus Product B Highly Dispersed TiO Drawdowns made using #4 Meyer rods on dark substrate Polar Solvent Drawdowns made using #4 Meyer rods on dark substrates. Drawdowns of s diluted in C1-15 Alkyl Benzoate. The greater whitening effect of competitor products is very High UVB apparent. Protection PROBLEMS SOLVED: INNOVATIVE ADVANCEMENTS IN WORKING WITH MINERAL UV FILTERS 4
5 Improving Photostability To mitigate photcatalytic and oxygen speciesgenerating activities of TiO and formulations, adding a photostabilizer, such as ethylexyl methoxycrylene, can improve stability and reduce harmful reaction upon exposure to sunlight. In addition, instead of a more traditional solvent of C1-15 Alkyl Benzoate, adding butyloctyl salicylate to solvent system will increase polarity of your overall oil-phase. This furr improves photostability of formulation, as well as improving aestics by imparting an elegant, moisturizing feel to skin in an odorless, colorless, non-irritating liquid. Transmittance Spectra of Sunscreen Concentrates Absorbance Absorbance Spectra of Sunscreen Concentrates: 0.001% Active TiO Diluted in Linear Alkyl Benzoate 1 cm Path Length Wavelength (nm) Percent Transmittance Transmittance Spectra of Sunscreen Concentrates: 0.001% Active TiO Diluted in Linear Alkyl Benzoate 1 cm Path Length Wavelength (nm) TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE MINERAL UV FILTER OPPORTUNITY The trends are clear. Consumers are: Looking for sun care and skin care products that provide both UVA and UVB. Seeking premium products that provide high levels of. Showing a preference for products that are more natural. Not willing to sacrifice aestics. They want products that flow well, spread smoothly, feel good on skin, dry smoothly and are non-whitening. Mineral UV filters can meet first three consumer demands, and advances in science can help formulators meet fourth. The challenges of working mineral UV filters are now easily overcome new scientific advances, including coating of mineral particles and using specially formulated solvent systems. Premium sun care products and skin care products UV represent fast growing markets. With right understanding of science behind successful formulations, manufacturers can expand ir market share and reap rewards associated mineral UV filters. PROBLEMS SOLVED: INNOVATIVE ADVANCEMENTS IN WORKING WITH MINERAL UV FILTERS 5
6 Hallstar has been successfully studying photo and stabilization of active ingredients for more than 0 years. The company holds more than 50 patents on photo technology and is committed to maximizing efficacy of active ingredients. As a leading global provider of specialty chemistry solutions, Hallstar takes a collaborative approach to every engagement, delivering technical support, chemistry expertise and industry knowledge that helps its customers make most of ir products, from concepts to first production batches. To learn more visit 1 Penning, Abby. Demand for beauty to grow over $13 billion by 018, report says. Cosmetics and Toiletries. Web. June 6, 013. cosmeticsandtoiletries.com Trends 05. Mintel Group Ltd. Web. mintel.com 3 Stone, Herbert and Sidel, Joel L. Sensory Evaluation Practice (Third Edition), 004 Hallstar, All Rights Reserved. 5/17
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