HAPTIC EVALUATION OF MALAY FEMALES' TRADITIONAL CLOTHES IN Kansei PERSPECTIVE

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1 Kansei Engineering International Vol.3 No.2 pp (2002) ORIGINAL ARTICLES HAPTIC EVALUATION OF MALAY FEMALES' TRADITIONAL CLOTHES IN Kansei PERSPECTIVE Nazlina SHAARI*, Terauchi FUMIO**, Kubo MITSUNORI **and Hiroyuki AOKI**. * Graduate School of Science and Technology, Chiba University, Japan ** Faculty of Engineering, Chiba University, Japan Abstract: Touch properties are essential for material specifications both in fashion and also in textile domains, although, most of the time they are subjectively evaluated. The purpose of this research is to identify the female's Kansei in choosing proper fabrics for their traditional clothes either by physiological needs or by fashion trends. In this research, fabrics were examined by using Fabric Hand Evaluation. This evaluation is originally based on the hand-touch feeling - a total hand value (THV) evaluation. Fabrics from traditional and new fabrics with different tactile properties are select to represent the current types of fabrics used in Malay traditional clothes of Baju Kurung and Baju Kebaya. Females range from age 20 years old until 30 years old with no professional and professional experience in fabrics are invited to participate in the categorization evaluation. The participants were asked to evaluate by using THV method. It was graded as Koshi, Numeri, Fukurami, Shari, Hari, Kishimi, Shinayakasa and Sofutosa. The range of Kansei attributes was selected to be representative of fabric's properties and the hand gestures were observed on how the participant re acts to the fabrics. Semantic differential (SD) method and Cluster Analysis is realized on words coordinates on the factorial space dimensions in order to determine the groups of attributes, which characterize the fabrics. The histogram of the level index is used to choose the number of classes. Factor analysis was used for analyzing the correlation structure of Kansei. As a result, the factors related to fabric hand must exist which are not influenced by fashion. It is because the relationship between clothes materials and human feeling does not change with fashion trends, and this is indeed a factor of real quality. The accuracy of prediction using Kansei for ladies' traditional clothes fabrics can improve the appearance of the overall clothes. Keywords: Haptic, Fabrics, Traditional clothes, Hand touch, Kansei attributes. 1. INTRODUCTION The fabric design varies greatly, and from normal view it is believed that strongly influenced by fashion trends. On the other hand, the factors that related so much in clothing are the quality factors from fabric hand must exist which is not only influenced by fashion. It is the same judgment that we must consider in traditional clothing. The relationship between garment materials and human feeling does not change with fashion trends, yet this appears to be a real quality for the ladies' garment [1]. In this survey, there are two types of traditional clothes involved that are Baju Kurung and Baju Kebaya. As it appears to be almost daily wear by the Malay females, a greatly consideration should be judges that causes deviation and the accuracy prediction on females feeling in daily clothing through Kansei. The visual and tactile properties strongly contribute to the first overall quality judgment in clothing as it known re act as our second skin [2]. This research is to identify the female's Kansei in choosing proper fabrics for their traditional clothes either by physiological needs or by fashion trends. Clothing purchase involves many parameters, one of, which is the costumer's desire to evaluate for themselves. Towards this objective, fabrics' hands is the main components in constitute one of our views. In textile perception, two senses were involved: visual and touch with hands or body contacts. Touch properties are essential for material specifications both in fashion and also in textile domains, although most of the time they are subjectively evaluated. Hollins, Faldowski, Rao and Young (1993) [3], used a categorization task to examine the subjective tactile dimensions of various texture stimuli, such as wood, sandpaper and velvet. From analytical point of view, physical and sensory methods are sometimes cited for tactile description of materials. The most cited dimensions are the softness versus harshness of the fabrics. Currently, there is no specific research had been encountered yet on traditional clothing from the haptic evaluation in Kansei. The general aim of these works is to better understand the females Kansei and perceived the touch of fabrics in their traditional clothes and what typed of tactile profile are they expecting in their clothing. By using amateur Received July 2, 2002 Accepted October 20, 2002

2 and specialist perceptions, descriptive methods evaluation will and identify specialist decision female's on we expect in terms clothing. the cognitive action 2. METHOD OF the Kansei proper perception. correctitude perceptions The to achieve of females' from in making evaluation This amateur purchase investigates in this observation. RESEARCH 2.1. Samples Fabrics from traditional and new with different tactile properties are select to represent the current types of fabrics used in Malay traditional clothes of Baju Kurung Figure 2: 24 samples of fabrics selected in the evaluation and Baju Kebaya (Figure 1). Females range from age 20 years old (amateur) until 30 years and professional old with no professional (specialist) fabrics are invited to participate experience in There are thirty-six image words were used for the test in in the categorization order to give proper area needed in the evaluation evaluation. Each of them was given about 17 pieces of (Table 1 and Table 2). They were instructed to do the fabrics out of 24 fabric samples with different types of same evaluation done. by the amateurs. They were asked textures (Figure 2 and Figure 3). to complete The range of fabrics was commonly found to be the questionnaires given based on the samples image attributes given. popular used in traditional clothing. The participants were asked to evaluate the fabrics through total hand 2.6. Phase 11- Observation value (THV). It was graded as Koshi, Numeri, Fukurami, perceptions about the fabrics form. The data obtained were then quantified to build up design reference model Shari, Hari, range of Kishimi, Shinayakasa Kansei attributes The SD method was used to explore the specialist's and Sofutosa. The was selected to by specialist be for designers and naïve consumers. These evaluations representative of fabric's properties and the hand gestures will help to investigate the difference between specialists were observed and amateurs in perceiving on how the participant re acts to the fabrics. clothing. Moreover, image-words fabrics form for traditional the relationship and tactile elements between particular values was clarified quantitatively and feelings expressed by both subjects Tactile categorization by specialist The tests were conducted individually and the subjects were asked to express their preferences regarding these fabric samples. This phase was done to integrate the experts' know-how from the semantic and gestures point of view. The total hand value (THV) will he stressed to summarize the overall results gain from the subject's judges of the right fabrics appearances in clothing. The THV are bio-polar five-point scales summarized from 11 scale values and ranking numbers 1 (average), 4 (good) and 5 (excellent). Figure 1: Images of traditional clothes 24 (poor), 2 (fair), 3

3 Figure 3: 17samples extracted in the evaluation Table 1: The Table 2: The 32 image word pairs used in the SD evaluation 3. RESULTS 16 attributes and used used in the evaluation AND DISCUSSIONS forms. The amateurs were fabric form and were highly The raw data from the evaluation distributed means image in expressing scores and standard deviation for the 18 adjective pairs image. The results rated the fabrics by amateurs specialists and specialists reflected that the is better than the amateur to tell the fabric 25 sample their gained found depend feeling not clear on the direct towards from the amateur a mid-scale about evaluation. the the visual fabric's tend to give

4 3.1. Selection of fabrics for females' traditional clothes These results reflected the different images of the females' preference in their fabrics' choices. It is found that each of the subjects who was not an expert were refers to their experiences and visual imagination on daily basis of the products. A different result occurs from the specialists that explained more clearly the fabrics' priority in clothing. The specialists were very sensible to the fabrics' form and proper deals with fabric hands. The range of specialist perceptions of the image could be appraisal, naturalist and activity. In the study, the descriptive adjectives for each factor were shown in Table 3 and Table 4 for the two subject groups. Three factors were extracted with a cumulative contribution rate of 86.4% for the specialist and three factors with a cumulative contribution rate of 83.4% were found for the amateurs The specialist's perceptual category For the specialist, the first factor axis is related to the fabrics' textures and can be explained by such adjectives as shinayakasa (0.869), numeri (0.797), kishimi (0.785), weight (0.492), thickness (0.836), sofutosa (0.527), force to compress (0.668) and shari (0.645), which can be defined as hedonic factor. The second axis indicates the Table 3: Three factors selected by specialist adjectives as fukurami (0.771), depression (0.732), tensile (0.915), lumpy (0.726), gloss (0.385) and koshi (0.758). This can be defined as tangible. The third axis can be defined as activity as the image words of warmth (0.779) and hari (0.612) appear in this factor. These three main factors represent the main visual criteria selected in fabrics by specialist. Table 3 shows the descriptive adjectives and fabric samples selected by the specialist The amateurs' perceptual category The amateurs perception of fabrics given can be simplified into three factors. The factor exist can be defined as with the specialist factors of hedonic, tangible factor and activity factor. The first factor can be defined as sofutosa (0.866), gloss (0.777), thickness (0.652), numeri (0.898), hari (0.893), shinayakasa (0.654), shari (0.870), kishimi (0.791) and fukurami (0.530) are typical for appraisal axis. The second axis signifies the visual impressions of flexibility in which the fabrics were hold. It expressed the adjectives as koshi (0.926), force to compress (0.498), depression (0.577), tensile (0.804) and weight (0.663). The adjectives of lumpy (0.926) and warmth (0.661) appear in the third factor of activity axis. Table 4 showed the descriptive adjectives and fabric samples selected by the amateurs. As being explained in Table 3 and 4, the specialists Table 4: Three factors selected by amateur users

5 Table 5: Attribute selected to describe the touch properties applied in fabric evaluations and amateurs show similar semantic structure in Factor 1. However, their interpretations appear differently in Factor 2 and Factor 3 in terms of their construction. The components show that the amateurs users' Factor 1 (hedonic factor) tend to focus on the existing appearance of the fabrics but the specialist were more sensitive on the perceptible factors. The findings occurred as, specialist were keen about the fabrics images that could fulfill the basic requirement in clothing such as comfort and also appearances for the end product. The amateurs were identified as an observer. These groups were highly depending on visual appearance but less consideration on the other aspect of clothing. 3.4 The relative importance of haptic evaluation The overall appearance gained from the three factor axes contribute the main visual criteria by which the specialist and amateurs judge the fabric used in traditional clothes. The fabric smoothness is of primary importance based on hand- touch feeling by both groups of subjects. The categories of descriptive terms given were mainly observed by gestures. Each attributes is rough, relief or embossed and slippery.3) The used of fingertips with normal pressure were used to evaluate softness and thickness of the fabrics.4) Using hands or both hands for grasping the fabric to evaluate the flexibility, stiffness, crispness or softness. By gestures motion, the fabric samples being classified were again into four main groups of fabric tactile property. This appraisal worth to recognize at this stage in order to tackle clearly of what typed of fabrics do both group require for their traditional clothing. The fabrics categories were able to classify the proper adjectives that reflect the image words evaluated. The seventeenth samples selected illustrating the existing fabrics used in traditional clothing. The cluster analysis identifies four groups of touches (Figure 4) from fabrics tactile characteristics. The attention was given to the similar approaches rather than individual specificity. precisely defined as well as its associates gestures in fabric handle for the minimum and maximum scale for each samples. It is well understood that the gestures presents variations of tactile recognition and identified high and low scales from the samples given. Table 5 explained the gestures motion found during the evaluation. These motions were observed to indicate the ability of females' in handling the fabrics. Many types of gestures were identified but the following gestures observed to be successfully explained about the samples. 1) use of the palm, flat on fabric surface, mainly related to overall quality of the fabrics such as comfort and softness.2) Fingertips, with large or small movement, mainly evaluate more detailed properties such as smooth, Figure 4: Cluster conducted on the grouping of attributes for fabric images

6 Figure 5: Regression Factor 1 versus Factor 2 position by the specialist Figure 8: Regression Factor 1 versus Factor 3 position by the amateur Figure 6: Regression Factor 1 versus Factor 3 position by the specialist Figure 7: Regression Factor 1 versus Factor 2 position by the amateur From the above qualitative description, the fabrics are split into four main groups: (A) typical touch fabrics, (B) fabrics with flat surface, (C) silk-like fabrics and (D) mix-embossed fabrics. Using this categorization, the cluster analysis identifies four classes of fabrics (Figure 4), which divides the overall grouping. Thus, these four classes correspond to a detailed tactile property of preference fabrics for clothing. Figure 5 and Figure 6, grouping by the specialists. Figure 7 and Figure 8, were the grouping by the amateurs, explained in four categories with different selection of the fabric preferences allocations. The high value of fabric occurs, were the silk-like fabrics and the most choices by amateurs' users were the fabrics with typical touch. Compared with fabric scores by the specialists (Figure 5), the high citation values were the silk-like fabrics in most of the samples for all subjects. The moderate scores were seen in the B and A group that indicate the common flat surface and typical touch fabric. It is predicted that both subject were highly aimed for the fabrics that give the image of silk-like fabrics for their clothing. This category represents the image of soft typed of fabrics, which had been indicated as shinayakasa, sofutosa, numeri, shari and fukurami. These values accurately reflect the soft and smooth image that highly required in traditional clothes. Generally, the amateurs and specialists can clearly distinguish the fabric factor levels. On the contrary, for the users, the range of positive and negative values were effected their choices of proper fabrics. Most of them are rely on trend and visual appearances and put some efforts

7 of knowing what kind of fabrics can contribute both appearances and comfort Indication level of total hand value (THV) The comparison of perceptual spaces showed almost consistency between amateurs' and the specialist subjects. The haptic evaluation also allows describing the differences that exist between fabrics. On the other hand, specific categories such as fabrics with flat surface, mix-embossed fabrics, silk-like fabrics and typical touch fabrics for fabric tactile could be recognized easily. The developed methodology shows good panel performance and large expectation in fabrics property could be tackle. As far as fabric categorization is concerned, the THV could easily identify proper fabrics that represents better in clothing appearance and quality. Results gains from both subjects from perceptual category were display in total hand value. Table 6 indicates the overall scores from Principal Component Analysis (PCA) of subjects Figure 9: The area of THV from hand value evaluation predicted by all subjects. On this result scale, the scores of 5 points means that both subjects has a very strong positive impression of preferences. By this estimation, THV in fabrics desired by females easily to understand and being focus as proper fabric images for clothing, while 1 point and below means ambiguous impression occurs during the evaluation was performed Prediction of image fabrics We now have a clear view of estimating and realizing the overall fabrics' preference for traditional clothing. In this range, fabrics' extensibility is important for clothing in order to deform properly with human body. The main predicted zone- smooth zone and stiffness zone. These two zones were the summarized prediction of quantified fabrics for clothing. Through cluster equation the results reveal that the predicted scores meet the preference requirement in clothing. Figure 9 showed the exact factor level with specific attributes of hand value for fabrics in describing smooth and stiff space. Table 6: Principal specialists Component Analysis scores parts of fabric handle were identified as smooth and soft factors. It is very difficult to achieve proper target concerning females' physiological needs in fabric design, because there are numerous fabrics' parameters and human background to be consider. However, the result of this research has given us an idea of the targeted area in finding proper fabrics properties for traditional clothes. For the experts, the comfort and appearance factor plays the most important role in clothing. For the users, the appearance and fashion trend factors have the positive influence upon their evaluation; detail parameters in fabrics sometimes being neglected. The responses of these two groups were similar with regard to the fabrics that display the 'smooth' and 'soft' typed. The image word 'easy' and 'soft', from the Sofutosa and Shinayakasa attribute is very often used by specialists and amateurs and represents 41.2% of all the citations. This confirms the fact that users are not always follows by and amateurs. 29

8 the fashion trend, but they still sensitive on the fabrics' comfort. Image words such as 'pliable', 'smooth', 'high drape', 'quite' and 'light' are typical words expressed by the experts. Each image words were the representative scores for koshi (29.4%), numeri (29.4%), hari (35.3%), kishimi (29.4%), fukurami (47.1%) and shari (17.6%). The high frequency of citation by this word may be used as a descriptive term as well as a hedonic term in clothing. As for the amateurs', 'easy', 'smooth', 'thin' and `light' were commonly judged the worth of fabrics in clothing. Fewer score were represented by the attributes given as koshi (5.9%), numeri (23.5%), hari (11.8%), kishimi (17.6%), fukurami (5.9%) and shari (5.9%). The smaller range means that it is more difficult for the user to distinguish subtle differences in fabric hand. This may conclude that the majority of amateurs were unclear regarding the precise sense of attributes given to them. The results also show that there are some similarities and differences exist between specialist and amateur users in fabric perception. They express correctly in their fabric preferences based on their experiences in fabric handling. 4. CONCLUSION This factors has profound influence through it is potential. Although there is an increasing trend in fabric choices, it is very hard to change the physiological needs and the customs behavior of aesthetic judgments. The evaluation showed that even the same fabrics had different element of stimulus and acceptance methods of impressions due to the cognitive structure of a specialist or amateurs, thus they are reconstructed into different views after the abstraction process. The results showed the benefits of analyzing Kansei image words and gestures of both subjects. It allowed to clearly improving sensitivity in the appearance and quality choices of fabrics for traditional clothes. This evaluation showed the interest of tactile categorizations by amateurs to have an overview of perceptual space of the tested samples. It allowed to select, in terms of touch properties, typical samples for clothing and recognized Kansei aspect that helped for detail sensory description. This result shows that hedonic is positioned closest to the preferred emotional response of the shinayakasa and sofutosa categories. It is clear that the construction of Kansei contemplated much in finding the similarity and differences in fabric judgment for clothing. This confirms that the specialists is more sensitive in know-what comes in fabrics choices for clothing than the amateurs user. Categorization task is valuable for user approach as it is an easy exercise and it focuses on perception only. The specialists also bring important information as this allows us to be in the right phase of know-how. Generally, the specialists can clearly distinguish the fabric levels. For the amateurs, the utility values for fabric tactile classification are not wide. Possibly they are tied with less information on handling the right fabrics for traditional clothing The research showed the possibility based on preferences tendencies and Kansei information processing may help the amateurs to realize the area that is important in fabric handling for traditional clothes. Through these predictions, both subjects can easily recognize the important area for THV were 'smoothness' and 'stiffness' in fabric preference assessment and appearance. Therefore, it can be concluded that hedonic elicits an emotional response that is preferred in fabrics for clothing. As a result, the factors related to fabric hand must exist which are not influenced by fashion. It is because the relationship between garment materials and human feeling does not change with fashion trends, and this is indeed a factor of real quality. The accuracy of prediction using Kansei for ladies' traditional clothes fabrics can improve the appearance of the overall garment. Through Kansei recognition, the females clothing could be better in appearance and physiological requirement. REFERENCES 1. P.K. Nag, C.K Pradhan, A. Nag, S.P. Ashtekar, H. Desai. "Efficacy of a Water-Cooled Garment for Auxiliary Body Cooling in Heat", Ergonomics, 41 (2) (1998). 2. M. Hori-Yamagishi, H. Tokura. "Seasonality of Wearing Behavior in Female Students", Ann. Physiol. Anthrop. 13(4), (1994). 3. Hollin, M. Faldowski, R., Rao, S. and Young, F. Perceptual Dimension of Tactile Surface Texture: A Multidimensional Scaling. Perception and Psychophysics, 54, (1993).