Determination of Allergens in Fragrance Products Using Agilent Deconvolution Reporting Software Application Brief

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Determination of Allergens in Fragrance Products Using Agilent Deconvolution Reporting Software Application Brief Wei Luan, Chris Sandy, and Mike Szelewski Flavor and Fragrance The 7th amendment of the European Cosmetics Directive (2003/15/EC) was published in 2003. Manufacturers of cosmetics were required to indicate the presence of 26 fragrance ingredients in finished cosmetic products if they exceed a threshold of 0.01% for rinse-off and 0.001% for leave-on products. Subsequently, the analytical method for 24 allergenic compounds (except two natural extracts oak moss and tree moss) using GC/MS was published by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA). Natural cosmetics are very complex, containing sterols, waxes, and flavanoids, which can result in poor spectral matches and long data processing time and can generate potential false positive or negative results. Highlights Automated deconvolution increases productivity for analysis of complex matrices Allergens database is available as a free download from Agilent Technologies, Inc. Agilent's deconvolution reporting software (DRS) is designed to automatically deconvolute the spectra from matrices and generate a qualification and quantitation report. DRS integrates information from three processes: MSD ChemStation, automated mass spectral deconvolution and identification system (AMDIS), and NIST Search. DRS increases the confidence in results with complex matrices, and the typical data processing time is about 2 to 3 minutes. A DRS database of 24 regulated allergenic compounds has been developed (Table 1). Additional compounds can easily be added to the database by the user. Table 1. Allergens in Fragrance Products Locked RT Name CAS no Mol form Mol wt 7.10 Limonene 5989-27-5 C 10H 16 136.1 7.17 Benzyl alcohol 100-51-6 C 7H 8O 108.1 7.41 Phenyl acetaldehyde 122-78-1 C 8H 8O 2 120.1 8.47 Linalol 78-70-6 C 10H 18O 154.1 10.29 1,4-Dibromobenzene [ISTD] 106-37-6 C 6H 4Br 2 233.9 10.41 Estragole 140-67-0 C 10H 12O 148.2 10.47 Folione 111-12-6 C 9H 14O 2 154.1 10.94 Citronellol 106-22-9 C 10H 20O 156.2 11.23 Citral (Neral) 106-26-3 C 10H 16O 152.1 11.44 Geraniol 106-24-1 C 10H 18O 154.1 11.77 Citral (geranial) 5392-40-5 C 10H 16O 152.1 11.80 Cinnamaldehyde 104-55-2 C 9H 8O 132.1

Table 1. Allergens in Fragrance Products (Continued) Locked RT Name CAS no Mol form Mol wt 12.00 Anisyl alcohol 105-13-5 C 8H 10O 2 138.1 12.04 Hydroxy citronellal 107-75-5 C 10H 20O 2 172.2 12.33 Methyl octine carbonate 111-80-8 C 10H 16O 2 168.1 12.42 Cinnamic alcohol 104-54-1 C 9H 10O 134.1 13.37 Eugenol 97-53-0 C 10H 12O 2 164.1 14.13 Methyl eugenol 93-15-2 C 11H 14O 2 178.2 14.82 Coumarin 91-64-5 C 9H 6O 2 146.0 14.88 Cinnamyl acetate 103-548 C 11H 12O 2 176.1 14.96 Isoeugenol 97-54-1 C 10H 12O 2 164.1 15.5 Alpha isomethyl ionone 127-51-5 C 14H 22O 206.2 16.26 Lilial 80-54-6 C 14H 20O 204.2 18.14 Amyl cinnamaldehyde 122-40-7 C 14H 18O 202.1 18.27 Lyral 1 31906-04-5 C 13H 22O 2 210.2 18.36 Lyral 2 31906-04-4 C 13H 22O 2 210.2 18.7 Amyl cinnamyl alcohol 101-85-9 C 14H 20O 204.2 18.83 Farnesol 1 100009-91-0 C 15H 26O 222.2 19.18 Farnesol 2 4602-84-0 C 15H 26O 222.2 19.61 Hexyl cinnamaldehyde 101-86-0 C 15H 20O 216.2 19.89 Benzyl benzoate 120-51-4 C 14H 12O 2 212.1 21.36 Benzyl salicylate 118-58-1 C 14H 12O 3 228.1 24.20 Benzyl cinnamate 103-41-3 C 16H 14O 2 238.1 The Agilent Retention Time Locked (RTL) database was developed using the instrument conditions in Table 2, which is locked to alpha-isomethyl ionone in 15.494 min by retention time locking. Table 2. Gas Chromatograph and Mass Spectrometer Conditions GC Agilent Technologies 7890A or 6890N Back inlet Split/splitless Injection type Split Inlet temperature 250 C Pressure 11.46 psi Split ratio 50:1 Split flow 68.5 ml/min Total flow 72.7 ml/min Gas saver On Saver flow 15.0 ml/min Saver time 1.00 min Gas type Helium 4 mm ID, Single Taper Liner Oven Oven ramp C/min Next C Hold min Initial time 50 1 Ramp rate 8 270 1.5 Total run time 30 min Equilibration time 0.5 min Column Agilent Technologies HP-5ms p/n 19091S-433 Length 30 m Diameter 0.25 mm Film thickness 0.25 µm Mode Constant pressure Pressure 11.46 psi Nominal initial flow 1.4 ml/min Inlet Back inlet Outlet MSD Outlet pressure Vacuum 2

Table 2. RTL Back Injector Sample washes 1 Sample pumps 3 Injection volume 1 µl Syringe size 10 µl Preinj solvent A washes 3 Preinj solvent B washes 3 Postinj solvent A washes 3 Postinj solvent B washes 3 Viscosity delay Plunger speed Preinjection dwell Post-injection dwell MSD Acquistion mode Solvent delay Low mass 40 High mass 350 Threshold 20 Sampling 3 Quad temperature 150 C Source temperature 230 C Transfer line temperature 280 C Tune type EM voltage MSD-SIM Gas Chromatograph and Mass Spectrometer Conditions (Continued) System retention time locked to alpha isomethyl ionone at 15.494 min 1 second Fast 0 minutes 0 minutes Agilent Technologies 5975C Scan/SIM 3 min Number of groups 17 Ions/group Varied 4 to 14 Dwell time, msec 10 Cycles/peak Varied 5.8 to 15.9 Autotune Atune voltage, 1,023.5 V AutoSIM was used to pick ions, groups, and switching times A typical total ion chromatogram (TIC) of a fragrance product is displayed in Figure 1. Abundance 700000 600000 500000 400000 300000 200000 100000 4.00 8.00 12.00 16.00 20.00 24.00 28.00 Time Figure 1. Total ion chromatogram of a fragrance product. 3

Dirty matrices often disturb the identification of target compounds by high-level chemical noise, resulting in poor library match factors. Background subtraction is both matrix- and operator-dependent and can yield inconsistent results. DRS automatically deconvolutes the signal from the matrix using AMDIS, which identifies target allergens quickly while minimizing false positives and negatives. A typical DRS report is displayed in Figure 2. Figure 2. Typical DRS report. Figure 3 shows us the benefit of DRS when analyzing allergens in fragrance products. Cinnamaldehyde was successfully identified by DRS even though it was buried by the coeluting matrix compounds. The upper window is the TIC, the middle window is the raw or dirty spectrum in the scan No. 987 (11.796 min), and the lower window is the comparison of the deconvoluted spectrum (the white plot) with the spectrum of cinnamaldehyde in the allergen RTL library (the black plot). After deconvolution, the spectrum of the scan No. 987 is "clean," and we can easily identify the cinnamaldehyde in the fragrance product. If your laboratory already has a user library in Agilent format, DRS A.04 software can create the necessary files in AMDIS format for deconvolution. Your laboratory may also have an optimized method or preferred column for allergens analysis. In these cases, DRS A.04 software can still be used with your own retention times and method. 4

Wei Luan is an application chemist based at Agilent Technologies, Shanghai, China; Chris Sandy is an application chemist based at Agilent Technologies, UK; and Mike Szelewski is an application chemist based at Agilent Technologies, Wilmington, Delaware, U.S. For More Information For more information on our products and services, visit our Web site at www.agilent.com/chem. Figure 3. AMDIS display showing: a) the total ion chromatogram of a fragrance product; b) the spectrum where cinnamaldehyde elutes, and c) the deconvoluted spectrum (in white) juxtaposed to the library spectrum for cinnamaldehyde (in black). Summary DRS (p/n G1716AA) automatically deconvolutes mass spectra and produces more consistent and reliable identification of compounds in complex matrices. A DRS add-on allergen RTL database has been published on the Agilent Web site and, after registration, can be freely downloaded from http://www.chem.agilent.com/en-us/support/downloads/utilities/retentiontimelocking/ Pages/default.aspx. References 1. GC/MS Quantitation of Potential Fragrance Allergens in Fragrance Compounds, Version 3, September 12, 2007, International Fragrance Association 2. Data Treatment Strategy to Analyze Allergens in Complex Samples Using the IFRA Procedure, Version 3, September 12, 2007, IInternational Fragrance Association 5

www.agilent.com/chem Agilent shall not be liable for errors contained herein or for incidental or consequential damages in connection with the furnishing, performance, or use of this material. Information, descriptions, and specifications in this publication are subject to change without notice. Agilent Technologies, Inc. 2008 Printed in the USA June 13, 2008 5989-8724EN