A new biomimetic ingredient of the skin hydrolipidicfilm: clinical benefits Performance-based Natural ingredients from
Olive Chemistry& HydrolipidicFilm Olive chemistry Hydrolipidic film Squalene (%) 0.4-0.7 5-10 Fatty acids (%) Hydrolipidic film - Barrier function - Smoothness Palmitic 7.5-20 25-29 Stearic 0.5-5.0 20-28 Stratum corneum Oleic 55-83 30-35 Linoleic 3.5-13.5 3.0-3.5 Linolenic max 1.2 max 1.2 Stratum granulosum
sensolene Family Technology Formulation & Clinical Benefits Hydrolipidic Film UV, Pollution, External Aggression Barrier function Smoothness Statum corneum Stratum granulosum Hydrolipidic film a thin layer of SC lipids and water often referred to as sebum First target of external insults First application substrate (Cosmetic & active interaction) Skin s natural sensory Slide 3 2008 B&T Srl
ECO CERT
Applying the B&T experience on natural lipids chemistry, the ESTER LINE is now expanded with a new product, with different chemical structure and physical properties but the same excellent characteristics common of all the B&T products.
sensolene Family Technology Formulation & Clinical Benefits Typical fatty acids from Olive: sensolene Oleic 70 % 80 % Linoleic 7 % 10 % Palmitic 5 % 15 % Stearic 1 % 3 % Typical fatty acids composition of Oleic 40 % 50 % Linoleic 5 % 8 % Palmitic 25 % 35 % Stearic 18 % 22 % To obtain higher melting point we change the fatty acids composition by increasing the saturated fatty acids amount. We also decide to take out the ramification on the alcohol chain, for this we choose a fatty alcohol with opportune chain length: Lauryl Olivate Slide 6 2008 B&T Srl
FromEthylhexyltoLaurylOlivate To obtain higher melting point we change the fatty acids composition by increasing the saturated fatty acids amount: Typical fatty acids composition of Oleic 40 % 50 % Linoleic 5 % 8 % Palmitic 25 % 35 % Stearic 18 % 22 % We also decide to take out the ramification on the alcohol chain, for this we choose a fatty alcohol with opportune chain length: Lauryl Alcohol.
From Ethylhexyl Olivate: Without ramification: And with a balanced saturated-unsaturated fatty acids composition + Four carbons more than Sensolene 25% more saturation than Sensolene
Functional properties differences: sensolene Unsaturated fatty acids rich Ramified fatty chains Emollient Lenitive Anti-inflammatory Relipidifiant Fast Absorption Balanced Saturated-Unsaturated fatty acids composition Linear fatty chains Emollient Film former Protective and Functional barrier Hair and skin conditioner Longer spreadability(play time)
Chemical-physical properties Colour (Visual) and Form Odour Active substances (%) Acid value (mgkoh/g) CAS: 92113-71-8 EINECS: 295-679-5 Chemical Name: Fatty acids, olive oil, lauryl esters Ecocert comply Slight yellow soft wax Slight characteristic 99,5 min. 10,0 max. Saponification value (mgkoh/g) 115 135 Iodine value (gi 2 /100g) 30 40 ph (5% water dispersion) 6 7 SpecificGravity(g/cm 3 ) 0,85 0,86 Solubility in alcohols, vegetable and mineral oils Melting Range( C) 25 30
Meltingpoint: At 20 C it is semisolid and by simple manipulation it becomes a spreadable wax. melting point (25-30 C) is near to skin temperature 1 (24-32 C), this provides its unique sensorial properties. 1 Journal ofnutrition, The Effects of High Humidity on Skin Temperature at Cool and Warm Conditions, Freeman and Lengyel, 17 (1), 43
sensolene Family Technology Formulation & Clinical Benefits ECO CERT INCI: Lauryl Olivate Oil-soluble functional lipid (suitable for hot mix) Strong emollient & lubricant properties longer play time Hypoallergenic Non-Comedogenic Skin sensorial modifier A film former (supports protective & functional barrier) Suitable for skin & hair conditioning Excellent dermatological compatibility Slide 12 2008 B&T Srl
Clinical Evaluation Patch Test This study assesses the potential side effects(skin erythema and oedema reactions) that may occur after applying a product. For this test, 25 volunteers were recruited with opportune criteria to evaluate skin irritation potential of The product were left in contact with the skin surface for 48 hours and eventual reactions are evaluated 15 minutes, 1 hour and 14 hours after patch removal according to following relationship of Mean Irritation Index (IIM): IIM Product Classification < 0.5 Non Irritating 0.5 2.0 Slightly Irritating 2.0 5.0 Moderately Irritating 5.0 8.0 Highly Irritating gains in this test a Mean Value for Edema and Erythema of 0.0 IIM with all volunteers and it was classified as NON IRRITATING.
Clinical Evaluation Comedogenicity 25 volunteers Three patch applications per week for four weeks onto shoulder-blade Cetyl Acetate and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol = positive control Distilled water = negative control Presence of acneiform skin lesions is evaluated after the removal of each patch Mean score 1 COMEDOGENIC Comedones Increase No comedones. 0 Small collection of sebaceous material and keratin retained in the hair follicle. 1 Moderate collection of sebaceous material and keratin retained in the hair follicle. 2 Score Thickcollectionofsebaceousmaterial and keratinretainedin the hairfollicleand excretory duct. It looks like a comedon. 3 Inflammatory lesions(papules). 4
Clinical Evaluation Comedogenicity Score 1 0,9 0,8 0,7 0,6 0,5 0,4 0,3 0,2 0,1 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 Application Cetyl Acetate and Acetylated Lanolin Alcohol in this test gain a mean value of 0.72 after 12 applications and it was classified as NON COMEDOGENIC
ClinicalEvaluation FunctionalProperties Evaluation of hydration and visco-elastic properties: - TEWL, CUTOMETER Products applied on the forearm: - -Control One single application att 0 Measurements: -prior to product application (T 0 -baseline) -then 1h (T 1h ) and 8h (T 8h ) after product application Examination on 20 subjects Control Formulations tested: Ceteareth-20 1.0 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.0 2.0 3.0 Demineralized Water qs 100 qs 100 Sodium Polyacrylate 0.65 0.65 Preservative 0.4 0.4 Parfum 0.2 0.2
Clinical Evaluation Visco-ElasticProperties Control 10 Elasticity(%) 8 6 4 *** *** 2 0 T1h Time (hours) T8h Action maintained for up to 8 hours after one single application *** p 0.001 vs p>0.05 (n.s) T1h vs T8h
Control Clinical Evaluation TEWL 0 T1h Time (hours) T8h 2 4 TEWL (%) 6 8 10 12 * * 14 16 18 Action maintained for up to 8 hours after one single application *** p 0.001 vs p>0.05 (n.s) T1h vs T8h
Clinical Evaluation Conclusion Significant clinical benefits are observed with a formulation containing 3% One single application of a formulation containing provides immediate clinical effects(after 1 hour) that are sustained for up to 8 hours for the following parameters: - Visco-Elastic Properties - Barrier function(hydration)
Clinical Evaluation Protective Effect Protective, soothing and repairing effect of 5% Forearms were pre-treated with sample application twice a day for 7 days TEWL is measured before and after tape stripping Tested formulations: Control CETEARETH-20 1.0 1.0 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2.0 2.0 5.0 DEMINERALIZED WATER qs 100 qs 100 SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.65 0.65 PRESERVATIVE 0.4 0.4 FRAGRANCE 0.2 0.2
Clinical Evaluation Protective Effect TEWL variation after stripping of treated and untreated skin TEWL vs. baseline 100.3% 81.2% 65.6% vs. not significant vs. p<0.05 vs. p<0.001 Pre-treatment with the product shows a protective effect relieving the damage caused by tape stripping for the TEWL value
Clinical Evaluation CaptivationofSenses Subject evaluation Richness(Greasiness): Does the product leave a greasy sensation after skin application? 70% 0 Very greasy (like butter) 25% 50% 75% 100% Proportion of subjects (%) Not greasy (like powder) Skin Smoothness: Does the product leave a smooth skin after application? 0 Not smooth skin (like dry skin) 25% 50% 75% 100% Proportion of subjects (%) Level of appreciation (high scores, 7 and above) 70% Very smooth skin (like silk)
Clinical Evaluation CaptivationofSenses Spreadability: Does the product spread on the skin during application? Subject evaluation 95% 0 Verydifficulttospread (likea wax) 25% 50% 75% 100% Proportion of subjects(%) Veryeasy tospread (likea light oil) Stickiness: Does the product leave a sticky sensation after skin application? 90% 0 Very sticky (like honey) 25% 50% 75% 100% Proportion of subjects (%) Level of appreciation (high scores, 7 and above) Not sticky (like water)
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