MACROSCOPIC PELLETS OF DIFFERENT FORMS AND COLORS FOR COSMETIC PRODUCTS Characterization Unishapes are dry pellets in different forms that consist of Mannitol and micro-crystalline Cellulose. They are not soluble in water but they soften in final products containing water and they can be easily rubbed into skin or hair with no residue. Types Appearance Analytical Data Solubility Properties Use Unishapes are available in three standard forms (Hearts, Stars and Flowers). Standard colors include red and pink for hearts, golden yellow for stars and lilac for flowers. Customized products can be produced in different colors according to customer s suggestions. Heart-, star- or flower-shaped, colored, hard, odorless, free-flowing pellets. See specifications. Virtually insoluble in water, oils, and all other common cosmetic vehicles. Unishapes are optically striking pellets which soften with water but retain their shape. When rubbed onto skin or hair they break easily, leaving no shell or residue. Unishapes do not contain preservatives. Unishapes are stable over a wide ph range, 3.0 to 10.0 for most colors, except those containing ultramarines / CI 77007 (ph > 6.5). Unishapes are stable to light and a wide range of temperatures. Unishapes are extremely safe and non toxic. Unishapes can be used in many types of cosmetic products. They are especially suitable for clear formulations (gels, shampoos, liquid soaps, sanitizers, antiperspirants, deodorants) and can also be used in emulsions (cleansers, creams and lotions, hair conditioners). Unishapes of different colors can be used in the same product for an enhanced visual effect. Formulas should have sufficient structural viscosity to keep the pellets suspended, usually with the aid of common associative thickeners or in high viscosity emulsions. In very few cases, certain surfactants, solubilizers or emulsifiers may show incompatibilities with pigments of the shapes. It can take several hours for Unishapes to soften in a formula. They should be added at the end of the manufacturing process with low shear mixing, but can safely be pumped (using a membrane, peristaltic or piston pump) and filled without breakage. Unishapes soften best in formulas with at least 30% available water content. In low water-content formulas, or in formulas where other FM-097B TDS Unishapes en(01) Version: 01 / 08.11.2012 1/6
Use Level Storage Shelf life ingredients (surfactants, polymeric thickeners, etc.) tie up most of the water, the shapes can be pre-soaked with up to 15% water before added to the batch. Unishapes are typically used at 0.5 2 % in final products. 5 C - 25 C (see safety data sheet) 2 years (see specification) PROCESSING WITH IN FINAL PRODUCTS The incorporation of Unishapes into final product is not complicated or time-consuming. Only a few tips should be considered: Unishapes are not soluble in water and generally they are not very hygroscopic. When added to formulations containing a certain amount of water, like emulsions, surfactant products or aqueous gels, water will penetrate into pellets and they soften. This can take some time, depending on the type of final product. In pure water, Unishapes will soften within few minutes. In cosmetic formulations, depending on the amount and availability of free, nonbonded water, this process can take some hours to some days. Enhanced temperatures can accelerate this process. As Unishapes are macroscopic pellets, any mechanical influences should be avoided during all manufacturing and filling procedures. Shearing, which is a common process for emulsifying and mixing of cosmetic formulations, will destroy pellets. This is why Unishapes should be added at the end of the manufacturing process only with slow stirring. For storage and filling, the bulk product can be safely pumped (using a membrane, peristaltic or piston pump) and filled without breakage. It is favorable to fill the products as soon as possible after the addition of Unishapes, while they are still hard, as the risk of breaking will increase with the softening of pellets. Considering normal hygienic procedures, there is no risk of contamination of the finished product by the addition of Unishapes, as they do not contain any active water and the absence of any microorganisms is guaranteed. FORMULATION REQUIREMENTS Regarding the composition of Unishapes with mainly Mannitol and Cellulose, the density of pellets will always be higher than that of water (1 g / ml). Because of this, in all aqueous systems, surfactant products and liquid emulsions, there is a risk of sedimentation; the beads will descent to the bottom of the containers. The only way to avoid this is to give a structure with sufficient viscosity and internal elasticity to the finished products. Emulsions normally have this behavior, they show sufficient viscosity including thixotropic properties to stabilize the homogenous distribution of the beads and avoid any sedimentation. Also gels based on Carbopol types or other synthetic polymer viscosity enhancers give sufficient stability. We recommend using Carbopol Ultrez 20 or 21 from Noveon/Lubrizol, but also natural polymers are suitable as viscosity enhancers. FM-097B TDS Unishapes en(01) Version: 01 / 08.11.2012 2/6
When using natural polymers like polysaccharides (Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan) or mixtures of natural and synthetic polymers, the addition of Unishapes to viscous gels with moderate stirring at low temperatures is recommended. Another possibility, mostly used with anionic polymers like Carbopol is the addition to the liquid product with stirring before neutralizing the polymer. This gives an easy and homogenous dispersion of the beads in the viscous gel. Surfactant products (e.g. shampoos, shower gels, liquid soaps) are more challenging, as mostly only common thickeners like dialkanolamides, ethoxylated fatty acid esters or even simply salt (NaCl) are used. These thickening agent do not give a sufficient internal structure to the finished products to avoid sedimentation of added Unishapes. For those products we recommend the addition of polymer viscosity increasing agents. We found combinations of Carbopol types with Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, or cellulose ethers to be very suitable for stabilizing the internal structure of surfactant products, without giving high viscosities to the finished product (e.g. 8% Carbopol Aqua SF-1 or 0.5% Carbopol EDT 2020 + 0.25% Xanthan Gum). Of course, these combinations must be adjusted to the content and types of surfactants and other functional ingredients. But in general, we found that mixtures of synthetic and natural polymers give better results than one thickening agent alone. STABILITY OF In all water containing finished products, Unishapes are stable in a wide range of ph-values. Only stable pigments are used normally for the coloration to avoid any fading or bleeding of the color in finished products. However, for the blue Unishapes containing Ultramarines, some special requirements must be considered. Ultramarines are pigments composed of sodium aluminum sulfo-silicates. These sulfo-silicates are sensitive to hydrolysis. At ph-values below 6.5 they start to dissolve, generating hydrogen sulfide. This will not only cause a bad smell, also the blue color will fade after some time. Thus, products with blue Unishapes should be formulated with a neutral phvalue. Some Unishapes types, especially those of custom-made colors, may contain soluble dyes in combination with insoluble pigments. These dyes may be incompatible with some components of the final products, so an appropriate stability test is always required. SUMMARY Processing with Unishapes is very easy. One has to consider only a very few precautions: 1. Avoid any ingredients that could act as solvents or cause other incompatibilities with ingredients of the Unishapes. 2. Avoid ph <6.5 if using blue/lilac Unishapes with Ultramarines. 3. Add Unishapes only at the end of the process, at cold or only moderate temperature. 4. Avoid any shearing or other strong mechanical influence during production, pumping or filling. FM-097B TDS Unishapes en(01) Version: 01 / 08.11.2012 3/6
5. Make formulations with sufficient structural viscosity. Emulsions (except sprayable ones) as well as aqueous gels normally have these properties. 6. Avoid using salt or common thickeners for surfactant products. The best results are obtained by combination of synthetic polymers with natural polysaccharides (e.g. Carbopol with Xanthan Gum, Carrageenan, or Hydroxyethylcellulose). These mixtures give sufficient, not too high, viscosities and stable elastic gel properties to the formulations, to retain good usage properties of the finished products. STANDARD Shape Stars Color Yellow Pink Red Lilac D0-638C Hearts P0-651C R0-652C Flowers L0-668C FM-097B TDS Unishapes en(01) Version: 01 / 08.11.2012 4/6
IDENTIFICATION Basic ingredients INCI Chinese Name CAS No. Mannitol 甘露糖醇 69-65-8 Cellulose 纤维素 9004-34-6 Acrylates Copolymer 丙烯酸 ( 酯 ) 类共聚物 25035-69-2 Hydroxypropylcellulose 羟丙纤维素 9004-64-2 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 辛酸 / 癸酸甘油三酯 73398-61-5 Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose 羟丙基甲基纤维素 9004-65-3 Triethyl Citrate 柠檬酸三乙酯 77-93-0 Type INCI Chinese Name CAS No. D0-638C Mica 云母 12001-26-2 Talc 滑石粉 14807-96-6 Decyl Glucoside 癸基葡糖苷 58846-77-8 CI 77492 (US: Iron Oxides) CI 77492 51274-00-1 CI 77491 (US: Iron Oxides) CI 77491 1309-37-1 P0-651C Decyl Glucoside 癸基葡糖苷 58846-77-8 Talc 滑石粉 14807-96-6 Mica 云母 12001-26-2 CI 73360 (US: Red 30) CI 73360 2379-74-0 Polysorbate 20 聚山梨醇酯 -20 9005-64-5 R0-652C CI 73360 (US: Red 30) CI 73360 2379-74-0 Decyl Glucoside 癸基葡糖苷 58846-77-8 Talc 滑石粉 14807-96-6 Mica 云母 12001-26-2 Polysorbate 20 聚山梨醇酯 -20 9005-64-5 FM-097B TDS Unishapes en(01) Version: 01 / 08.11.2012 5/6
L0-668C CI 77007 (US: Ultramarines) CI 77007 12769-96-9 Decyl Glucoside 癸基葡糖苷 58846-77-8 Mica 云母 12001-26-2 CI 77007 (US: Ultramarines) CI 77007 57455-37-5 FM-097B TDS Unishapes en(01) Version: 01 / 08.11.2012 6/6