Natural Fragrance Solubilizers Dennis Abbeduto Colonial Chemical, Inc.
Outline Brief solubilizer overview Naturally derived solubilizers Performance evaluation 2
Solubilizer Overview 3
What is Fragrance Solubilization? Emulsion or dispersion characterized by particle size Generally less than ~600A Surfactant alone is water soluble Fragrance generally soluble in the surfactant High ratio of surfactant to oil Usually tolerate infinite dilution 4
Fragrance Characteristics Odor Class Relative Polarity Examples Floral High Jasmine, rose, lilac, carnation Fruity Medium Esters, aldehydes, fruity lactones Menthe Medium Peppermint, spearmint, menthol Spice/Herbs Medium/Low Spice oils (eugenol) Citrus Low Terpenes, limonene Woody Low Cedar, sandalwood, pinene Medicinal Low Camphor, thymol Animal Low Ambergris, civet, musk 5
Solubility Parameter Measure of cohesive forces between molecules Higher numbers tend to be more polar Molecules with similar numbers will be miscible Molecules with values >9 will tend to be easier to solubilizer into water Polar oils are easier to solubilize than nonpolar oils 6
Solubilizer Overview Using the HLB system Formulation Function Required HLB Defoaming of aqueous systems 1 3 W/O emulsification 4 6 Wetting 7 9 O/W emulsification 8 18 Solubilization 11 18 Detergency 13+ 7
Solubilizer Overview Solubilizers with approximate HLB value Oleth-10 12 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 15 Polysorbate 80 15 Oleth-20 15 Polysorbate 20 17 PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 17 Steareth-100 19 8
Solubilizer Overview Why are solubilizers made by ethoxylation? Simple surfactants Easily vary the HLB Cost 9
Solubilizer Overview A by-product of ethoxylation is 1,4-Dioxane: 2 O O O Ethylene Oxide 1,4-Dioxane 10
Naturally Derived Solubilizers 11
What is Naturally Derived? 12 Principles of Green Chemistry: Major raws from renewable sources No waste or toxic by-products Safe process methods Readily biodegradable Non-toxic solvents Must produce products with comparable performance 12
Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer (SODC) HLB Value: 13 65% solids in water Moderate foamer Straw color Co polymer of Decyl Glucoside and Sorbitan Monoleate, using biobased linker Patented Ecocert/COSMOS, NPA, NSF, 100% Biobased (USDA) 13
Heptyl Glucoside 70% active in water Non-foaming Low color Glucoside from castor oil-derived heptyl alcohol Patented Ecocert/COSMOS, Ecolabel, 100% Biobased (ACDV) 14
Sulfoacetate Blend Aqua (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (and) Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate (and) Sodium Chloride (and) Disodium Sulfoacetate (and) Sodium Oleate (and) Sodium Sulfate 55% solids in water Low foaming Low color Patent pending Primarily PEG-free, no NGO approvals 15
Natural Glucosides Blend Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides (and) Aqua (and) Fusel Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides (and) Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Glyceryl Caprylate 70% active in water Moderate foam Amber color Suggested formulation ph 4.5 7.5 Ecocert/COSMOS 16
Polyglycerol Ester Blend Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate (and) Diglycerin (and) Water X% active in water Moderate foam Low color Suggested formulation ph > 7 Ecocert/COSMOS 17
Polyglyceryl Esters Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate 100% active in water Low color Low foam 18
Performance Evaluation 19
Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) Performance Evaluation Premixes with Synthetic Solubilizers 12 >10 >10 >10 10 10 10 10 8 8 8 8 7 7 7 7 8 6 4 6 Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 PEG-40 HCO 2 0 Clary Sage Oil Lavendar 40/42 Lemongrass Oil Lemon Oil Italian Phoenix Peppermint Oil Essential Oil Premixes of oil and solubilizer were added to DI water and mixed at 40 C for 5-10 minutes until a clear mixture was obtained. In all tests, there was 1% fragrance in the system. 20
Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) Performance Evaluation Premixes with Natural Solubilizers 12 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 10 9 8 7 6 Crosspolymer 4.5 Heptyl Glucoside 4 3.5 3 2.5 Sulfoacetate Blend PGE Blend 2 0 Clary Sage Oil Lavendar 40/42 Lemongrass Oil Lemon Oil Italian Phoenix Peppermint Oil Essential Oil Premixes of oil and solubilizer were added to DI water and mixed at 40 C for 5-10 minutes until a clear mixture was obtained. In all tests, there was 1% fragrance in the system. 21
Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) Performance Evaluation Post-Adds with Synthetic Solubilizers 12 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 10 10 10 8 7.5 7.5 6 4 Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 PEG-40 HCO 2 0 Clary Sage Oil Lavendar 40/42 Lemongrass Oil Essential Oil Lemon Oil Italian Phoenix Peppermint Oil 1 gram oil in 99 grams water, heated to 40 C. Solubilizer titrated in 0.5% increments with 5 minute mix time between increments until clear mixture obtained. 22
Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) Performance Evaluation 12 Post-Adds with Natural Solubilizers >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 10.5 10 9 9 8 8 6 4 5.5 4.5 5.5 3.5 Crosspolymer Heptyl Glucoside Sulfoacetate Blend PGE Blend 2 0 Clary Sage Oil Lavendar 40/42 Lemongrass Oil Essential Oil Lemon Oil Italian Phoenix Peppermint Oil 1 gram oil in 99 grams water, heated to 40 C. Solubilizer titrated in 0.5% increments with 5 minute mix time between increments until clear mixture obtained. 23
Conclusions Naturally derived fragrance solubilizers with broad regulatory, NGO approvals increasing Non-ethoxylated options offer similar, if not better performance than traditional offerings Formulators must be mindful of advantages and drawbacks for each technology 24
Questions? Thank you! 25