Real Hydrophilic Ceramide Derivatives Made by Charles Kim Published from November, 2012
Importance of Ceramide THE MOST IMPORTANT LIPIDS OF THE SKIN COMPOSITION OF SKIN LIPID - CERAMIDE : 40% - CHOLESTEROL : 25% - FREE FATTY ACID : 25% * FREE SPHINGOIDS : (nmol/mg protein) - PHYTOSPHINGOSINE : 2.8 - SPHINGOSINE : 1.2 - SPHINGANINE : 0.5 ref.) J Chromato B Biomed Appl 1994, 656(1):65-71 More than 40% of the total skin lipids Structural lipids as skin barrier Physiological lipids Primary anti-microbial barrier in the skin
Biological Activity of Ceramide Key components in skin barrier Keeping moisture balance in skin barrier Rejuvenation of skin Maintaining healthy skin condition
Importance of Ceramide Age changes in the stratum corneum lipids of Caucasians s skin < Arch Dermatol Res (1996) 288 : 765 770 > All the lipid classes, in particular ceramides, decreased with increasing age.
Importance of Ceramide Comparison of Ceramide content in forearm skin between AD and healthy subjects Ceramides (especially of ceramide 1) is responsible for functional abnormalities of the skin of atopic dermatitis patients In patients with atopic dermatitis, the levels of ceramide 1 and 3 were significantly lower and values of cholesterol significantly higher with respect to healthy subjects. The CER/CH ratio was significantly lower with respect to normal skin. The quantity of ceramide 3 was significantly correlated with TEWL important. ( Atopic subjects : 47, Healthy subjects : 20, Age : 3 ~ 30 ) < Acta Derm Venereol,1998; 78: 27 30 > < Imokawa et.al. J Invest Dermatol. 1991 Apr;96(4):523-6.>
Importance of Ceramide Changes in ceramide content of stratum corneum with increasing skin dryness In skin suffering from soap-induced winter xerosis, the total levels of stratum corneum ceramides are decreased. < International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 22: 21-52(2000) >
Problem using Ceramide 3 The main problem is that it s difficult to use. If you use in your formula, over time, it will recrystalize. It causes emulsion instability. The detail reasons are Low Solubility Ceramide is a good active ingredient for skin. Since it has low solubility, its use level is limited. Limitations using silicone and esters It causes recrystalization if you use ceramide and silicone, or low-polar esters in the same formula.
Development of Ceracare H Series For overcoming obstacles, we developed Ceracare-H which has a high contents and is easy to apply in formula. Main Benefit of Ceracare-H Series Hydrophilic Ceramide 3 It is easy to use in formulas. High Content of Ceramide 3 It contains 40 percent of ceramide 3. You can use easily.
Benefit of Ceracare H Series Hydrophilic ceramide 3 easy to apply High contents of ceramide 3 Reinforces the natural lipid barrier of dry and aging skin. Keeping moisture balance in skin barrier Maintaining healthy skin condition Human-skin identical molecule. Natural product with high purity.
Ceramide Series Trade Name Ceracare H40 Ceracare H30S INCI Name Ceramide 3, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Glyceryl Streate, Glycereth-20, Dipropylene Glycol Ceramide 3, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Glyceryl Streate, Glycereth-20, Dipropylene Glycol Ceracare H5 Cerasterol Vitacerasterol Ceramide 3, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycerin Ceramide 3, Cholesterol, Sphingolipid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sucrose Distearate, Dipropylene Glycol Ceramide 3, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycerin, Cholesterol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Water
Ceracare Series Property Ceracare H40 Ceracare H30S Cerecare H5 Appearance Yellowish powder Yellowish powder Yellowish Gel Ceramide 3 Content 38±2% 28.5±1.5% 4.8 ± 0.2% Recommend Emulsion Skin, Essence, Emulsion Skin, Essence, Emulsion, Hair care Hydration Step Need or Not Need or Not No Need Cerasterol Vitacerasterol Appearance Yellowish powder Translucent Viscous Liquid Ceramide 3 Content 10±1% 1±0.2% Cholesterol Content 5% 0.5% Sphingolipid Content 10% - Tocopheryl acetate Content Recommend - 20% Skin, Essence, Emulsion Skin, Essence, Emulsion, Hair care Hydration Step Need or Not No Need Origin of Ceramide 3 and Cholesterol is Yeast
Technical Features Ceracare H40 DSC Data Solubility Shift
Technical Features Ceracare H30S DSC Data Solubility Shift
Technical Features Ceracare H30S 2% is dispersed into water 1 day after (X400) 30 day after (X400) 60 day after (X400) <Microscope, Formula : CS0P1802> Very Stable
Technical Features Ceracare H40 2% Contained in Emulsion 1 day after (X400) 30 day after / 50 (X400) 60 day after / 50 (X400) <Microscope, Formula : CL0P2802 > Very Stable
Technical Features Ceracare H5 5% is dispersed into water 1 day after (X400) 30 day after (X400) 60 day after (X400) <Microscope, Lab.No. : HS1X1205 > Very Stable
Instruction for Use This method is the mostly used and the recommended one Hydration of Ceracare H40 or H30S in water phase : Hydration Step Pour Ceracare H into the water phase, then stir and heat until 70. Under slow stirring(h/m 2,500rpm) and constant temperature(70 ), dissolve Ceracare H Temperature must not pass below 65 during this step. Optimum temperature is between 65 and 75. Agitator Stirring rate must be quite low during this step. High shear would lead to very high viscosity and poor hydration. Stir gently for 10 to 20 minutes minimum. Both of homogenizer and agitator is possible for hydration You can use in water or the oil phase. Usually hydration occurs in water phase, if used this way will increase moisture. Homogenizer
Guide Formula No. Phase 1 Trade Name Con. (%) INCI Name Purified Water To 100 Purified water - 2 EDTA-2Na 0.02 Disodium-EDTA - Maker 3 Keltrol F 0.10 Xanthan-gum Kelco 4 1.3-B.G 7.00 Butylene glycol Kyowa 5 A Natural BP-20 1.00 Betain Danisco 6 Intensive Collagen 1.00 Hydrolized Collagen, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Ethanol, Water 7 Glycerin 5.00 Glycerin Acidchem 8 Tornare 0.50 Glyceryl trehalose Hayasibara NFC Ceramide Skin.3 Expert <Lab. No. CS1U1303> 9 B Ceracare H30S 1.00 10 C 11 Aqua Solution-24 1.50 12 Ceramide 3, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Glyceryl Streate, Glycereth-20, Dipropylene Glycol NFC DC 200/100cs 0.30 Dimethicone Dow-corning Dimethicone, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, and so on Ethanol 95% 10.00 Ethanol - 13 Perfume 0.12 Perfume - D Octanediol, Ethyl hexyl glycerine, 14 Edecide Plus 0.60 Glycerin, Citrus Grandis(Grapefruit) DAMY seed extract, Citric Acid NFC Process : 1. Solubilize phase A 2. Put phase B into phase A. then Stir and heat until 70. At 70, homogenize 2500rpm for 15 minute. 3. Put pase C into phase A, then stir 4. Put phase D into phase A, then stir.
Guide Formula No. Phase 1 Trade Name Con. (%) INCI Name Purified Water To 100 Purified water - 2 EDTA-2Na 0.02 Disodium-EDTA - Maker 3 Keltrol F 0.20 Xanthan-gum Kelco 4 1.3-B.G 7.00 Butylene glycol Kyowa 5 A Natural BP-20 1.00 Betain Danisco 6 Intensive Collagen 1.00 Hydrolized Collagen, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Ethanol, Water 7 Glycerin 5.00 Glycerin Acidchem 8 Tornare 0.50 Glyceryl trehalose Hayasibara NFC Ceramide Essence.6 Expert <Lab. No. SPGFF011303> 9 B Ceracare H30S 2.00 Ceramide 3, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Glyceryl Streate, Glycereth-20, Dipropylene Glycol NFC 10 C 11 Carbopol-940 2% Sol. D 12 Aqua Solution-24 2.00 10.00 Carbomer, Water NFC DC 200/100cs 0.30 Dimethicone Dow-corning Dimethicone, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, and so on 13 E Triethanolamine 0.20 Triethanolamine - 14 Ethanol 95% 10.00 Ethanol - 15 Perfume 0.12 Perfume - F Octanediol, Ethyl hexyl glycerine, 16 Edecide Plus 0.60 Glycerin, Citrus Grandis(Grapefruit) DAMY seed extract, Citric Acid NFC Process : 1. Solubilize phase A 2. Put phase B into phase A. then Stir and heat until 70. At 70, homogenize 2500rpm for 15 minute. 3. Put pase C into phase A, then stir 4. Put phase D into phase A, then stir. 5. Put phase E into phase A, then stir for neutralization. 6. Put phase F into phase A, then stir.
Guide Formula No. Phase 1 Trade Name Con. (%) 2 A Ceracare H40 0.50 INCI Name Purified Water To 100 Purified water - 3 Picocare SE 2.00 Ceramide 3, Hydrogenated Lecithin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Glyceryl Streate, Glycereth-20, Dipropylene Glycol Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl acid, Stearyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol Maker 4 Keltrol-F 0.10 Xanthan-gum Kelco 5 1.3-B.G 5.00 Butylene glycol Kyowa 6 Glycerin B 6.00 Glycerin Acidchem 7 Tornare 1.00 Glyceryl trehalose Hayasibara 8 Intensive Hydrolized Collagen, Hydrogenated 1.00 Collagen Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Ethanol, Water NFC 9 C Carbopol-941 2% Sol. NFC NFC 8.00 Carbomer, Water Lubrizol 10 Simulsol 165 0.80 PEG-100 stearate, Glyceryl stearate Seppic 11 Montanov 202 2.00 Arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside Seppic 12 Cropure OL 2.50 Olea europaea(olive) fuit oil Croda 13 D Akosun 2.00 Helianthus annuus(sun flower) seed oil AAK 14 NF-HPIB280 3.50 Hydrogenated Polyisobutene NFC 15 Cremerlin pura 3.00 Olus (Vegetable) oil Cremer 16 DC 200/100cs 1.00 Dimethicone Dow-Corning 17 Purified Water 2.00 Purified Water - E 18 Triethanolamine 0.16 Triethanolamine - 19 F Edecide Plus 0.60 Octanediol, Ethyl hexyl glycerine, Glycerin, Citrus Grandis(Grapefruit) seed extract, Citric Acid 20 Perfume 0.12 Perfume - DAMY Ceramide Lotion.2 Expert Process : <Lab. No. CL1U1302> 1. (Hydration Step) Stir and heat phase A until 70. At 70, homogenize 2500rpm for 15 minute. 2. Put phase B into phase A, then stir and heat until 80. 3. Put phase C into phase A, then stir and heat until 80. 4. Heat phase D until 80. Then, put phase E into phase A, then homogenize 7000rpm for 5 minute, at 80. 5. Put phase E into phase A. then, homogenize 7000rpm for 1.5 minute. 6. Cool down until 45. 7. Put phase F into phase A. then stir. 8. Cool down until 30.
Guide Formula No. Phase 1 2 A 3 Trade Name Con. (%) INCI Name Maker Purified Water To 100 Purified water - Ceramide 3, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceracare H40 1.00 PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Glyceryl Streate, Glycereth-20, Dipropylene NFC Glycol Picocare SE 3.00 Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl acid, Stearyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol NFC Ceramide Cream.4 Expert <Lab. No. CC1U1303> 4 Keltrol-F 0.10 Xanthan-gum Kelco 5 1.3-B.G 5.00 Butylene glycol Kyowa 6 B Glycerin 6.00 Glycerin Acidchem 7 Tornare 1.00 Glyceryl trehalose Hayasibara 9 Natural BP-20 4.00 Glyceryl trehalose Hayasibara 10 Simulsol 165 0.80 PEG-100 stearate, Glyceryl stearate Seppic 11 Montanov 202 2.50 Arachidyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Arachidyl glucoside Seppic 12 Cropure OL 2.00 Olea europaea(olive) fuit oil Croda 13 Tegosoft CT 3.00 Caprylic/capric triglyceride Degussa 14 C Dimethicone, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Aqua Solution-24 1.00 Crosspolymer, and so on NFC 15 Vaselin 3.50 Petrolatum - 16 Cosmol 222 2.00 Diisostearyl malate Nisshine 17 SF-0005Z 4.00 Cyclopentasiloxane KCC 18 D Simulgel NS 0.80 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Squalane, Polysorbate 60 Seppic Octanediol, Ethyl hexyl glycerine, 19 Edecide Plus 0.60 Glycerin, Citrus Grandis(Grapefruit) seed DAMY E extract, Citric Acid 20 Perfume 0.12 Perfume - Process : 1. (Hydration Step) Stir and heat phase A until 70. At 70, homogenize 2500rpm for 15 minute. 2. Put phase B into phase A, then stir and heat until 80. 3. Heat phase D until 80. Then, put phase E into phase A, then homogenize 7000rpm for 5 minute, at 80. 4. Put phase D into phase A. then, homogenize 7000rpm for 1.5 minute. 5. Cool down until 45. 6. Put phase E into phase A. then stir. 7. Cool down until 30.
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