Available online at http://www.urpjournals.com International Journal of Research in Cosmetic Science Universal Research Publications. All rights reserved ISSN 2277 7172 Review Article Natural Antioxidant for Face Cream: A Review Priyanka Kawarkhe, Subhash Deshmane, Kailash Biyani Department of Cosmetic Technology, Anuradha College of Pharmacy, Chikhli. Dist-Buldana. 443201 (M.S.) India Corresponding author Priyanka Kawarkhe Anuradha College of Pharmacy, Chikhli +91 7264244702 subdeshmane@yahoo.co.in Received 22 December 2015; accepted 17 January 2016 Abstract Free radicals are nothing but the reactive oxygen species, oxidant and/or simply radicals. Free radicals can enter the body via pollution, smoking, poor diet, pesticides or radiation. In some cases, excess exercise can cause over-production of free radicals. Most free radicals, with the exception of a few such as melanin, are chemically reactive and dangerous to health. Antioxidants have wide applications like, protect the skin, calming of inflammation. Skin firming, disappear wrinkles, reduce scar tissue, prevent skin from sun damage etc. Now a day s antioxidant extracted from natural herbal source is also have wide applications in preparation of cosmetic preparations because of their easy availability and non-toxicity. Present review made by focussing on natural antioxidants used in cosmetic science. 2016 Universal Research Publications. All rights reserved Key words: Antioxidant, free radicals, face cream, skin treatment. 1. Introduction To restore a good and youthful complexion, most of the peoples used a skin facial. Facial cream helps for enhancing personal beauty by protecting ailments of skin. A facial cream also helps from age spots, to other skin discoloration due to hyperpigmentation and also in whitening the colour of skin and also adds moisture and protective layer on the skin. Instead of that it is also can covered the dark spots, blemishes and discolorations to make them unnoticeable. The facial creams acts as removal of the flaws from skin, maintaining the smoothness and moistness of skin 1. The facial cream usually signifies a semisolid emulsion. An emulsion is dispersion of one immiscible liquid in the other. Water is an important ingredient of skin creams and lotions as a moisture content of the skin controls the appearance of the skin. Therefore, in skin creams or lotions, either fatty Phase (oil) can be dispersed in aqueous phase (water) or aqueous phase can be dispersed in fatty phase. If oil droplets are dispersed in aqueous phase, emulsion is termed as oil-in-water (o/w) and if water is dispersed in fatty phase (oil) emulsion is termed as water-in-oil (w/o). It has been observed that o/w emulsions occasionally change into w/o emulsion and vice versa. To make dispersion of one phase into other suitable emulsifying agents are used. A variety of substances are use as emulsifying agents and most of them belong to the group known as surface active agents. These substances possess both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties 2-4. 2. Antioxidant in face cream To prevent oxidative deterioration, antioxidants are added to semisolids face cream. The antioxidant system is determined by the components of the formulation, and the selection depends on several factors, such as toxicity, irritancy, potency, compatibility, odour, discoloration, solubility and stability. Often, two antioxidants are used, since the combination is often synergistic. Butyl hydroxyl toluene 1
(BHT) and Butyl hydroxyl aniline (BHA) are some commonly used antioxidants. Acids such as citric, maleic, phosphoric, or tartaric may be added to the combination to chelate trace quantities of metals 2,5. Face cream containing antioxidant is used to protect the skin from damage and respond to the presence of free radicals. Antioxidants have ability to reduce or prevent some amount of the oxidative damage that destroys and depletes the skin s function and structure while also preventing some of the degenerative effects in skin caused by sun exposure. It may also reduce the effect of trace, smoke, and pollution. Some skin expert believes that direct application of antioxidant cream to the skin might slow down the aging process. Antioxidant cream may also reduce the appearance of wrinkles and shield the skin against damage from the sun and the environment. Some antioxidant cream content essential oils that are believed to have natural antioxidant properties. Now a day s antioxidant extracted from natural herbal source is also have wide applications in preparation of cosmetic preparations because of their easy availability and nontoxicity. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, unstable oxygen molecules that break down skin cells and cause wrinkles, thus preventing impairment at the cellular level. They inhibit inflammation leading to collagen depletion and offer protection against photo damage and skin cancer. 2.1 Roles of antioxidant Oxygen is essential to life, but as our bodies use oxygen, we generate by-products known as reactive oxygen species or, more commonly, free radicals. These compounds are a normal part of the body's stress response, but they can damage healthy cells and are especially likely to attack the fats that provide structure to the membranes surrounding body cells 3. Antioxidants are nutrients or enzymes that help to neutralize free radicals in the body. Free radicals are created as by products when the body uses oxygen. Free radicals are nothing but the reactive oxygen species, oxidant and/or simply radicals. Free radicals can also enter the body via pollution, smoking, poor diet, pesticides or radiation. In some cases, excess exercise can cause over-production of free radicals. Most free radicals, with the exception of a few such as melanin, are chemically reactive and dangerous to health 6,7. Antioxidants protect the skin by limiting the production of free radicals, which can damage skin cells. One of the most desirable benefits of antioxidants in skin care products is the calming of inflammation, which promotes more even skin tone and helps to keep skin acne and wrinkles at free. Antioxidant play an important role in skin care is skin firming. Antioxidants may actually reverse the effects of aging by improving skin health and rejuvenating its appearance. Although it is nearly impossible to make wrinkles disappear, skin care products with antioxidants can help plump out the skin and make it more youthful. Reducing the appearance of scar tissue is another important benefit of antioxidants in skin care. Antioxidants that stimulate blood flow in the skin can help encourage the growth of new cells and make sundamaged skin appear younger. 2.2 Examples of antioxidant Vitamin E Vitamin E (tocopherol) is known for better antioxidant activity and used in skin care formulations. There are eight active isoforms of this lipophilic antioxidant, which is present in various foods, such as vegetables, seeds, and meat. α- Tocopherol is the most biologically active isoform, which in animals showed photo-protective effects after topical application being able to reduce the number of sunburn cells and UVB-induced damage. Vitamin C Our body is not able to produce vitamin C (ascorbic acid). This essential water-soluble anti-oxidant can be obtained exclusively from dietary sources such as fruits and vegetables (lemons, oranges, green peppers, watermelon, papaya, grapefruit, strawberries, kiwi, mango, tomatoes) where it is normally present in its reduced form, ascorbic acid. Oxidation processes form dehydro-ascorbic acid that can revert to ascorbic acid. Green tea One of the most favourite beverages which is useful as its extracts in cosmetic products is green tea. Topical application of green tea extract and some of its components were able to reduce the deleterious effects of sunlight on human skin and to prevent UVA-induced skin damage including wrinkling and sagging. Among the polyphenolic catechins contained in green extract obtained from the tea plant Camellia sinensis, epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) is the most abundant and the most biologically active. Genistein The main components of soy are phospho-lipids, such as phosphatidylcholine and essential fatty acids while among the minor elements, the most active compounds include isoflavones, saponins, essential amino acids, and phytosterols. The most potent isoflavones are the phytoestrogens genistein and daidzein. Genistein photoprotective effects have been attributed to its ability to inhibit UV-induced oxidative DNA da-mage and to effectively protect human skin against UVB-induced skin photodamage. Due to its different beneficial effects, genistein is included in various skin care formulations claiming anti-aging effects. Lycopene Lycopene possesses antioxidant properties superior to those of β-carotene and other common carotenoids, due to its 2
extreme reactivity. After topical application, lycopene can prevent oxidative damage more effectively than β-caro-tene. Lycopene is a terpene with eight isoprene units, which is responsible for the red color of fruits and vegetables such as tomato, water-melon, pink grapefruit, guava, apricots, papaya and rosehip, representing more than 80% of total tomato carotenoids. Silymarin Silymarin is extracted from the fruit, seeds and leaves of the milk thistle plant, Silybummarianum, which is one of the oldest and better-known plants of ancient times for the treatment of liver and gallbladder disorders. Silymarin is a mixture of three natural polyphenolic flavonoids: silybin (silibinin), silydianin, and silychristine. The main component silibinin is considered the most biologically active, due to its potent antioxidant activity and its ability to modulate differently molecular changes caused by skin exposure to xenobiotics and UV radiations. Scavenging free radicals prevent lipid peroxidation and decreasing the production of pyrimidine. Coffee Berry The extract of coffee contains polyphenols including chlorogenic acid, condensed proanthocyanidins, quinic acid, and ferulic acid. The oxygen radical absorbance capacity assay (ORAC) showed that the antioxidant activity of Coffeeberry was stronger than that of other well- known antioxidants such as green tea extract, pomegranate extract, vitamin C and E. Resveratrol Resveratrol (3,5,4 -trihydroxystilbene), a poly-phenolic phytoalexin found in grapes, nuts, fruits (colored berries), and many red wines, exists in two isoforms and the trans isomer is more stable and biologically active. Resveratrol is a potent antioxidant with strong anti-inflammatory and antiproliferativepropertie. Recent studies reported that this compound was able to inhibit UV-induced lipid peroxidation being 95% efficient, compared with ~65% for vitamin E and ~37% for vitamin C. Because of its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, resveratrol appears to offer anti-aging skin benefits, and different commercial skin care formulations contain this active ingredient. In quantities contained in skin care products, resveratrol seems to be safe. Grape seed Grape seed is obtained from Vitisvinifera, and its principal components are proanthocyanidins, fatty acids, and vitamin E, C, and D. Proanthocya-nidins, belonging to the flavonoid family, are potent antioxidants due to radical scavenging, quenching, and enzyme-inhibiting actions. The antioxidant activity of proanthocyanidins was reported to be much stronger than vitamin C or vitamin E in aqueous systems. In human epidermal keratinocytes, grape seed proanthocyanidins reduced UV-B photo-damage by inhibiting depletion of natural antioxidant defense. Due to its skin moisturizing and antioxidant properties, grape seed oil is largely used as an active ingredient in cosmetic products. This oil contains fatty acids such as linoleic, oleic, palmitic, stearic, alpha-linolenic, palmitoleic acids and vitamins E, C, D. These fatty acids help repair damaged skin, wrinkles around the eyes, stretch marks and, therefore, grape seed oil has been included in cosmetic products claiming anti-aging effects. Pomegranate One of the most interesting active ingredients re-discovered in the last decade is pomegranate extract, obtained from different parts of the fruit Punicagranatum, such as juice, seed, and peel. Because of its many beneficial effects, pomegra-nate extracts have been used in various cultures as a traditional medicine for centuries. Pomegranate fruit contains a wide range of polyphenols including ellagic acid, flavonoids, anthocyanidins, tannins, and vitamin C. In particular, the phenolic components have potent antioxidant activity. With its anti-inflammatory, antiaging and soothing effects, pomegranate extracts are favorite ingredients for a number of cosmetic products 8. Pycnogenol Pycnogenol, derived from the French maritime pine, Pinuspinaster, is a water-soluble extract that contains flavonoids of the proanthocyanidin family, dimers and oligomers of these proantho-cyanidins, along with some organic acids such as cinnamic, gallic, fumaric, caffeic, vanillic, ferulic. Pycnogenol acts as free-radical scavengers and antioxidant. It is more potent than vitamin E and C and has a synergic effect with these vitamins. Pycnogenol was able to provide photoprotection. Nardostachys jatamansi N. jatamansi is a superb remedy famous in the Indian medicinal system and used for centuries for its healthy benefits, beauty, medicinal and skin care properties. It has antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral and antioxidant effects and it is also used in treatment of nervous headache, excitement, menopausal symptoms, flatulence, epilepsy, fungal disease, hyperlipidemia and intestinal colic. Nowadays, N. jatamansi is a natural product, which is frequently used in the field of cosmetology. It can be applied topically as an emollient for burns, edema, mild abrasion, and for inflammatory skin disorders 9. Psidium Guajava Guava (Psidium guajava L., Myrtaceae) is a fruit widely distributed in the tropical countries. Guava is rich in tannins, phenols, triterpenes, flavonoids, essential oils, saponins, carotenoids, lectins, vitamins, fiber and fatty acids 10. Guava fruit is higher in vitamin C than citrus (80 mg of vitamin C in 100 g of fruit) and contains appreciable amounts of vitamin A as well. Guava fruits are also a good source of pectin, a dietary fiber. The leaves of guava are rich in flavonoids, in 3
particular, quercetin. Much of guava's therapeutic activity is attributed to these flavonoids. Phenolic compounds exhibit a wide range of physiological properties, such as antioxidant, anti-allergenic, anti-artherogenic, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anti-thrombotic, cardioprotective and vasodilatory effects. 3. Component of face cream Face cream can be prepared by using various ingredients. Depending on the physico-chemical properties and cream stability different types of excipient are used. Table 1 contains the list of category of components along with their examples. 4. Ideal properties It should be stable and should have a good appearance. It should soften on application to the skin. It should spread easily without dragging. During application it should not have oily or greasy feel. A thin emollient film should remain on the skin after its use. It should give the antioxidant property to the skin. 5. Anti-oxidant as a nutrients Antioxidant action is also part of the role of vitamins C,E, folate and beta carotene and also the minerals selenium, manganese, copper and zinc. Much of the marketing of antioxidants concentrates on these nutrients. However, studies of antioxidant minerals and vitamins taken as supplements have been disappointing and it appears that the complex array of antioxidants present naturally in plants as well as those the body produces in reaction to stress may be more important 8. Table 2 indicated different food sources for the antioxidants. 6. General applications of antioxidant Antioxidants protect skin by limiting the production of free radicals, which can damage skin cells. Reducing the appearance of scar tissue. Use to treat sun damage. Reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Reverse the effect of aging 11-13. 1. Anti-inflammation: Calming of inflammation is one of the most desirable benefits of antioxidants in skin-care products. Reducing inflammation promotes more even skin tone and helps keep acne and wrinkles at bay. Alpha lipoic acid and others found in pine bark and green tea, produce valuable anti-inflammatory results by increasing circulation and cell metabolism. 2. Skin firming: Antioxidants may actually reverse the effects of aging by improving skin health and rejuvenating its appearance. Coenzyme Q-10, or CoQ-10, is a common skin-firming antioxidant and is great for use in eye creams and products that are meant to tone the skin. 3. Reduced appearance of wrinkles: Most antioxidants are great for reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, but vitamins C and E are especially beneficial. Although it is nearly impossible to make wrinkles disappear, skin-care products with antioxidants can help plump out the skin and make it appear more youthful. Many products and creams for use around the eyes or other problem areas incorporate these vitamins. 4. Scar treatment: Reducing the appearance of scar tissue is another important benefit of antioxidants in skin care. Scar tissue has a different cell structure than that of healthy skin, making it rigid. Many types of antioxidants, including those found in aloe and an onion extract called allium, increase blood flow to scar tissue, minimizing the look of the scar and blending in the development of new skin. Antioxidant-rich scar treatment products are available in a variety of forms, including gels, patches and creams. 5. Repair of sun damage: Many antioxidant-rich beauty products are available for treating sun damage, including cleansers and moisturizers that you can use on your entire body. Sun damage can make skin appear tough and wrinkly. Antioxidants that stimulate blood flow in the skin can help encourage the growth of new cells and make sun-damaged skin appear younger. 6. 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