Bulletin 22 HYDRACIRE S Jojoba Wax, Sunflower Wax & Mimosa Wax Have you ever think about to add in hydro soluble active into the anhydrous system like lip balm, lip stick, ointments and etc products? Yes, in year 2009, you can do it by using Hydracire S which is the innovative ingredient patented by Gattefossé. Oleochemists from Gattefossé have developed and optimised a method to transform vegetable waxes, bringing them both improved sensoriality and compatibility through transesterification and polyglycerolysis. Product Information This new innovation comes from 100% plant origin and it is an active texture agent based on a hydrophilised complex targeted functionalization of three vegetable waxes which are Sunflower, Jojoba and Mimosa wax. By using a patented technology, Gattefossé has transformed a new functional and moisturizing ingredient, designed to transform your natural formulations into a unique and truly texturizing active ingredient. into a unique and truly texturizing active ingredient. Through its unique molecular structure, Hydracire S combines the sensorial and functional advantages of liquid emollients, butters and waxes which give a soft, smooth butter, and it stabilizes and improves the sensoriality of your natural formulations. At the Page 1 of 9
same time, the hydrophilized complex of hydrophobic waxes allows the realization of original formulations and textures. This truly active texture agent brings durable moisturization and comfort to the skin and its efficacy has been clinically demonstrated. Properties: Jojoba Wax consists essentially of long chain monoesters (C38 C46) of unsaturated fatty acids and alcohols. It is unique amongst waxes because of its liquid nature. It contributes spread and softness to cosmetic formulations. Sunflower wax is composed principally of monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols of length C40 to C56. It is a hard wax, of high melting point and low color. It presents excellent thermal stability. Mimosa wax is of a more complex composition, containing an association of free phytosterols, aliphatic monoesters (C38 to C48) but also a proportion of inert hydrocarbon chains. These contribute to the protecting nature of the wax and the film forming properties. It presents a sweet, pleasant odor, well known to perfumers. Page 2 of 9
These waxes, with the exception of Jojoba, demonstrate poor compatibility with cosmetic emulsions and low sensoriality. This blend of vegetable waxes is reacted, under well defined conditions, in presence of vegetable polyglycerol-3 a hydrophilic and highly moisturizing molecule. Polyglycerol reacts, replacing the fatty alcohols of the wax esters and then combining with the fatty acids. This forms an amphiphilic structure (Polyglycerol-3 esters) that can emulsify or disperse water in an oil phase. The reaction creates free fatty alcohols, issued from the polyglycerolysis of the original esters. These free fatty alcohols can then react with other aliphatic esters of the original vegetable waxes. Page 3 of 9
The crystallization of Hydracire S is much finer than in the case of the raw waxes. Smaller crystals are more homogeneous and more compatible with emulsions, whereas the large crystals can disturb the water-oil interface. Photos below show the different between crystallization of Hydracire S and non-modified Sunflower/Jojoba/Mimosa waxes. Non modified Sunflower/Jojoba/Mimosa waxes in apricot kernel oil (20%) Hydracire S TM in apricot kernel oil (20%) Hydracire S plays an important function in helping compatibilize the oil and water phases of an emulsion. Due to the presence of amphiphilic molecules based on polyglycerol-3 esters, Hydracire S enables the dispersion of water within an oil phase. This latter characteristic is particularly interesting for the introduction of water to traditionally anhydrous formulations and textures such as lip balms, massage balms and even lipsticks. Hydracire S, at only 5% in a formulation, allows the integration of 15% of water to form a texture that resembles an anhydrous balm, only more buttery, with a fresh application and a visible impression of moisturization. Page 4 of 9
Contrary to lanolin, these balms show excellent heat stability. Formula Anhydrous balm 5% Lanolin Anhydrous balm 5% HYDRACIRE TM S Anhydrous-like balm 5% Lanolin 15% water Anhydrous-like balm 5% HYDRACIRE TM S 15% water Heat stability 40 C 3 months STABLE STABLE UNSTABLE STABLE In this type of oil predominant formula, Hydracire S can be used to: enable the easy addition of hydrosoluble actives to traditionally anhydrous formula without decreasing the heat stability Create innovative textures Improve the moisturizing properties. In oil in water emulsions, Hydracire S helps emulsify. It can be used as a substitute for certain low HLB coemulsifiers, creating interesting new textures with high softness and pleasant afterfeel. It also allows reduction of the level of primary emulsifier. Hydracire S is particularly compatible with natural, non PeG emulsifiers, including sugar esters, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, or glyceryl stearate citrate. Skin Microrelief is a direct image of the level of the skin moisturisation. With age, or in dry skin, the microrelief becomes uneven and disorganized. Microrelief pictures clearly show the efficacy of Hydracire S on the surface aspect of the skin: visibly better organization and surface unaltered by scales. Page 5 of 9
The photos above show the evaluation of skin microrelief improvement by a dermatologist. The dry skin surface network of the inner forearm of the same panelist appeared very different depending on the emulsion applied. Compared to a non treated control area and to a lanolin treated area, the Hydracire S treated area (green rectangle) showed a better organization. All the furrows of this picture are very well orientated; their uniformity is visible without any remaining scales. Page 6 of 9
Functions/Claims Absorb up to 6 times its weight in water Forming a soufflé-like structure that presents an elastic, cushion soft feel. Form a soft, smooth film that protects the skin from dehydration. 2 fold improvement of the water retention ability of the skin. Increase in the skin microrelief to improve skin stretching and firmness. Improved sensoriality. Substitute low HLB co-emulsifier in O/W Emulsion. High compatibility with natural emulsifier. Create innovative texture. Application & Guided Formulation Hydracire S can be formulated easily in any kind of emulsion or anhydrous formulation. It is generally added to the oil phase then heated to 70 c for melting and recommended for use between 1 and 5%, depending on the type of formulation. Hydracire S can be used for: Skin care O/W or W/O emulsions For the addition of up to 15% water to oil gels. Page 7 of 9
It can be used in lip balms and massage balms to improve moisturization and texture. While in sun care, Hydracire S will improve the skin feel of formulations with high uv filter levels (chemical or mineral). Hydracire S can also be used in make-up products to: Improve crystallization for an improved stability Improve application properties and texture. In make-up Innnovation, Hydracire S is particularly interesting for its capacity to introduce water to traditionally anhydrous formulations and Hydracire S is well suited to foundations (emulsions or gels), lipsticks. We could provide a wide range of formulas using HYDRACIRE TM S and some are stated below: Petit Bisou Lip Balm MM 8759 Hydrate (H) And Renew Cream MM 8772 Natural Soothing Stick MM 8789 Timeless Cream MM 2009 Water Butter MM 8790 Eye Contour Cream MM 8781 Moisturising Fluid MM 8742 Cereal Scrub MM 8762 Light'N'Luxurious MM 8773 Page 8 of 9
Please try our formulas and feel the difference for yourself or simply call us for even more formulas! Contact Us Today! Whether it is a sales enquiry or a sample request kindly contact us right away: Our sales office Tel: 603-6157 5412 & 603-6157 5413 Our Sales Team: Mr. Hoh (H/P : 016 233 5412, email : cwhoh@alliance2u.com) Jenson Khor (H/P : 016-263 5412, email : jensonkhor@alliance2u.com) Nicholas Mun (H/P : 012-283 5412, email : nickmun@alliance2u.com) Alternatively you can log on to our official website for more info http://www.alliance2u.com Page 9 of 9