Punica granatum L. belongs to the Lythraceae family and its common name is pomegranate.

Pomegranate BOTANY Punica granatum L. belongs to the Lythraceae family and its common name is pomegranate. Pomegranate is a deciduous shrub growing to between 5 and 8 meters tall. The leaves are opposite or sub-opposite, glossy, narrow oblong, entire, 3 7 cm long and 2 cm broad. The flowers are bright red, 3 cm in diameter, with five petals (normally more on cultivated plants). The fruit is a large globulose berry, which contains numerous seeds and has a very tasty aril with a bright red-violet color. Its skin is glossy and thick. The fruit is crowned at the base by a prominent calyx. Typically, the skin is hard and leathery, yellow in color covered in pink or red. The inside is separated by membranous walls and a spongy, bitter tissue, in compartments containing a few grains of bittersweet, juicy pulp with a red, pink or whitish color. Each grain contains an angular seed. The seeds are coated with a covering, called sarcotesta, with a red and juicy pulp. It opens spontaneously when reaching maturity through cracks that expose the contents of each lobe. High temperatures during the ripening of the fruit are essential to achieve the best taste. Pomegranate is native to Asia, from the area between Iran and the Himalayas, in Northern India, and it has been cultivated since ancient times in the Mediterranean regions of Asia, Africa and Europe. It has been widely cultivated all over India and in the drier areas of Southeast Asia, Malaysia, Eastern India and tropical Africa. Nowadays, it is naturalized in the Mediterranean region, South America and Southern United States. The most important growing regions are Egypt, China, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Iran, Iraq, India, Burma and Saudi Arabia. Pomegranate extract is obtained from the fruit of Punica granatum L. CHEMISTRY Pomegranate is rich in vitamins A, B and C, as well as in potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium and sodium. The average chemical composition of the edible portion is as follows: V 01-09/09 40030,40460,41720,42530,49150-1

Nutrient Protein Total lipids Carbohydrates Calcium, Ca Magnesium, Mg Phosphorus, P Potassium, K Zinc, Zn Sodium, Na Value in 100 g 0.95 g 0.30 g 17.17 g 8 mg 259 mg 0.12 mg Vitamins Vitamin C (Total ascorbic acid) Thiamin Riboflavin Niacin Pantothenic acid Vitamin B-6 Vitamin E Value in 100 g 6.1 mg 0.0 0.0 0.30 mg 0.60 mg 0.10-0.11 mg 0.55 mg Table 1. Average composition of pomegranate In addition, the presence of polyphenols is important, especially punicalagins. These polyphenols are hydrolysable tannins with a molecular weight of 1084 and they are found in forms α and β in pomegranates (Gil, MI., et al, 2000). β-carotenes (Singh, RP. et al, 2002), catechins and anthocyanines, such as cyanidin and prodelphinidins (Pluma, GW. et al, 2002), and ellagic and gallic acid can also be found. TRADITIONAL USES Originally from Asia, its history started several centuries before Christ. The pomegranate was traditionally considered as a symbol of love and fertility. The Arabs introduced it in Spain, and it is mentioned as early as the thirteenth century in one of Gonzalo de Berceo's poems, in which he calls it milgrana (one thousand grains) due to the abundance of this seed. It also gave its name to the city of Granada. The Spanish then took it to America, where it now occupies large areas, especially in coastal areas of the Pacific. The fruit has been used in many different ways. It has been represented in Egyptian mythology and art, and it has been praised in the Old Testament of the Bible and in the Babylonian Talmud. The caravans of the desert carried it because of its juice, which quenches thirst. It traveled from Iran to Central and Southern India around the late first century AD and it was growing in Indonesia in 1416. In some countries, such as Iran, its juice is still a very popular drink: removing the grains or pressing and filtering the fruit. Pomegranate juice is used in preparations for treating dyspepsia and it is considered beneficial in leprosy cases. Due to its content in tannins, the extracts of bark, leaves, unripe fruit and skin are used as astringents to stop diarrhea, dysentery and bleeding. The flower buds, dried and powdered, are used as a remedy for bronchitis. In Mexico, a decoction of the flowers is used as a gargle to relieve throat inflammations. Leaves, seeds, roots and bark have showed hypotensive, antispasmodic and anthelmintic activity in bioassays. V 01-09/09 40030,40460,41720,42530,49150-2

Pomegranate is highly digestive and due to its many applications, Muslims considered it as the medicine fruit. The pulp is astringent and detoxifying, and it helps cleanse the body. Its juice is used as an extended cure to modify the condition of blood, detoxifying it and allowing blood regeneration. Moreover, due to its richness in minerals, it has a recognized action against anemia. COSMETIC PROPERTIES Regulating activity of sebaceous secretion The entire pomegranate plant contains tannins and other substances that make it antibacterial, antiviral and astringent. The pericarp of its fruit contains tannins and gallic and ellagic acid, among other substances, which provide interesting properties for cosmetic products with an astringent action and regulators of sebaceous secretion. Topically, tannins waterproof the outermost layers of skin and mucous membranes, protecting the underlying layers. They also have a vasoconstrictive effect on small superficial vessels. By limiting the loss of fluids and preventing external aggressions, tannins promote the regeneration of tissues (healing action) in cases of superficial wounds or burns (Bruneton, J., 2001). Therefore, Pomegranate is very useful for cosmetic products with an astringent and regulatory activity of sebum on skin and hair. Antioxidant activity Vitamin C is very important for skin, as it helps maintain the integrity of the structure of collagen in the dermis, preventing and reducing aging symptoms. The fruit's pulp and membrane constitute 13% of the overall composition of the fruit and, therefore, a study was carried out to analyze its composition. The methanol extract was fractionated by HPLC and a compound (punicalagin) was obtained, with a powerful anti-free radical activity and EC 50 values of 16.7 ± 2.3 and 54.2 ± 4.6 against DPPH free radicals and superoxide radicals, respectively. A powerful inhibiting activity of lipid peroxidation was shown in a liposomal model, with EC 50 values of 54.2 ± 0.9. Its antioxidant capacity is due to its ability to scavenge radicals (Anand P. Kulkarni, et al, 2004). The presence of vitamin E also increases the antioxidant activity of pomegranate for two reasons: Antioxidant activity: reduction in the formation of lipoperoxides on skin. The oxidation of the highly unsaturated phospolipids in the cellular membrane generates lipoperoxides that destabilize it and cause skin aging. Radical scavenging activity: it protects cells against free radicals released by lipoperoxides, which are involved in skin aging. Malonil dialdehyde (MDA) is a reaction product of lipoperoxides that appears between the collagen fibers of connective tissue, reducing skin elasticity and contributing to skin aging. After inducing the formation of lipoperoxides and free radicals using UV-B radiation (290-320 nm), a clear increase of MDA can be seen on the skin. In an experiment using mice treated with a solution of vitamin E acetate at 5% before UV-B radiation, a decrease of between 40-80% in the formation of MDA was observed. Vitamin E reduces the formation of lipoperoxides on the skin (Erlemann, G., 1988). The absorption of vitamin E at a topical level is very high. When applied topically, a high amount of vitamin E has been found both in the stratum corneum of skin and within skin's deepest layers. It is also directly absorbed by the hair cortex (Idson, B., 1993). Therefore, Pomegranate is highly recommended for cosmetic products with antioxidant and anti-free radicals activity, for body, face or hair. V 01-09/09 40030,40460,41720,42530,49150-3

Photo-protective activity Exposure to ultraviolet radiation is associated with certain chronic conditions, such as burns, edemas, hyperplasia, immunosuppression, photoaging and skin cancer. Pacheco-Palencia, LA. et al (2008) investigated the potential protective effect of an extract of this fruit standardized in punicalagins against damage induced on skin fibroblasts (SKU-1064) exposed to UVA and UVB radiation. This extract (5-60mg/L) was effective in protecting skin fibroblasts against cellular death occurred after radiation. Its effect is related to a reduction in the activation of the NF-kappaB pro-inflammatory transcription factor, a downwards regulation of pro-apoptotic caspase-3 and an increase of the G0/G1 phase (associated with DNA repair). Higher concentrations (500-10000 mg/l) achieved a significant reduction in the levels of reactive oxygen species induced by UVB radiation and an increase in the intracellular antioxidant capacity (from 1.9 to 8.6 µm Trolox equivalents/ml). In consequence, the protective properties of pomegranate at a topical level against damage caused by ultraviolet radiation are confirmed. In a recent study (Afaq, F. et al, 2009), the effect of three products derived from pomegranate (POM juice, POM extract and POM oil) against damage caused by UVB radiation was determined, using reconstituted human skin (EpiDerm FT-200). Skin was treated with POM juice (1-2 µl/0.1 ml/well), POM extract (5-10 µg/0.1 ml/well) and POM oil (1-2 µ/0.1 ml/well) during one hour before radiation and it was stored for 12 hours in order to examine protein oxidation, damage to DNA markers and photoaging. Pre-treatment of the skin resulted in inhibition of radiation-induced compounds, protein oxidation and protein expression of the cellular nuclear antigen. An inhibition of metalloproteinases (collagenase, gelatinase, stromelysin, matrilysin and elastase) and tropoelastin was also observed in the pretreated skin. Therefore, products derived from pomegranate inhibit the activities of MMP-2 and MMP-9 metalloproteinases induced by UVB radiation. As a result, Pomegranate is useful for cosmetic products with photo-protective and protective activity of skin's DNA. Anti-inflammatory activity Anti-inflammatory activity is partly due to the content in vitamin E. An experiment was conducted in which for seven consecutive days a cream with α-tocopherol at 2% was applied in animals. Once the treatment was finished, irritation was induced in the area. It was observed that, compared to the control group, inflammation intensity, injury magnitude and dermatitis duration was significantly reduced in the group treated with vitamin E (Idson, B., 1993). Another consequence of pomegranate's activity against the formation of lipoperoxides is its anti-inflammatory activity, as it prevents that inflammationcausing prostaglandins are synthesized from arachidonic acid, and therefore, when applied topically, it shows an antiedematous and antierythematous effect (Carreras, M., 2000). On the other hand, zinc is closely related to tissues with high metabolic, immunological and inflammatory activity. This element and its derivatives are used to treat oily skin, to regenerate tissues and in anti-dandruff products. Therefore, Pomegranate is recommended for cosmetic products with anti-inflammatory activity and for hair products. V 01-09/09 40030,40460,41720,42530,49150-4

COSMETIC APPLICATIONS Action Active Ingredient Cosmetic Application Sebaceous secretion regulator Tannins Gallic acid Ellagic acid -Sebaceous secretion normalizer -Hair products Antioxidant Photo-protective Anti-inflammatory Vitamins Punicalagin Extract Vitamin E Zinc -Anti-aging -Hair coloration protection -Sun products -Photo-protective products -Anti-aging -Soothing -Anti-inflammatory -Sensitive skin -Anti-dandruff RECOMMENDED DOSAGE The recommended dosage ranges from 0.5% to 5%. BIBLIOGRAPHY Afaq, F., Zaid, MA., Khan, N., Dreher, M., Mukhtar, H. Protective effect of pomegranate-derived products on UVB-mediated damage in human reconstituted skin. Exp Dermatol. 2009 Jun; 18(6):553-61. Anand P. Kulkarni, Aradhya, SM. and Divakar, S. Isolation and identification of a radical scavenging antioxidant punicalagin from pith and carpellary membrane of pomegranate fruit. Food chemistry, 2004; vol. 87 (4): pp. 551-557. Bruneton, J. Farmacognosia. Zaragoza: Ed. Acribia, 2001; Parte 2 (651*1 BRU). Carreras, M. La vitamina E en el cuidado de la piel y el cabello. El farmacéutico, 2000; 238: 66-69 (ref. 3765). Erlemann, G. Las vitaminas en cosmética. NCP, 1988; 153: 21-25 (ref.1199). Gil, M.I., Tomás-Barberán, F.A., Hess-Pierce, B., Holcroft, D.M. y Kader, A.A. Antioxidant activity of pomegranate juice and its relationship with phenolic composition and processing. J. Agric. Food Chem., 2000; 48: 4581-4589. Idsson, B. Vitamins and the Skin. Cosmetic & Toiletries, 1993; 108 (12): 79-94 (ref.1202). Pacheco-Palencia, LA., Noratto, G., Hingorani, L., Talcott, ST., Mertens-Talcott, SU. Protective effects of standardized pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) polyphenolic extract in ultraviolet-irradiated human skin fibroblasts. J Agric Food Chem., 2008 Sep 24; 56(18):8434-41. Pluma, GW., De Pascual-Teresa, S., Santos-Buelga, C., Rivas-Gonzalo, JC., Williamson, G. Antioxidant properties of gallocatechin and prodelphinidins from pomegranate peel. Redox Rep., 2002; 7 (41): 41. Singh, RP., Murthy, KNC., Jayaprakasha, GK. Studies on the antioxidant activity of pomegranate (Punica granatum) peel and seed extracts using in vitro models. J Agric. Food Chem., 2002; 50: 81-86. Webs: http://www.in-cosmetics.com/exhibitorlibrary/403/ingredients_from_nature_official_trade_names_2.pdf http://www.pfaf.org/database/plants.php?punica+granatum V 01-09/09 40030,40460,41720,42530,49150-5