Herbal Cosmetics; Arising Trends in Common People Hasnain Nangyal & Nighat Ziaudin Department of Botany Hazara University Khyber Pakhtoonkhwa, Department of Biotechnology,Dr Rafiq Zakria for Higher Learning & Research Center, Dr Baba Sahib Ambedkar Marathwada, University Mahrashtra India Department of Biochemistry University of Agriculture, Faisalabad, Pakistan hasnain308@gmail.com HERBAL COSMETICS Herbal make-ups, identified as goods that remain expressed, via different acceptable cosmetic components to form the base into which different herbal component are utilized to define the ornamental advantages merely will be described as herbal cosmetic goods. In ancient times Herbal make up industries consist of huge obscure contents. In European & Western Countries since about six centuries before, herbal paste and fusions were used for whitening face, an exercise which kept on standard till over 400 years before. Primary fusions used in European countries for this purpose were so persuasive that they led to strokes, death / paralysis. With the everlasting health advantages, it s predictable that herbal goods will soon come to the time of vigorous body (Scartezzini, 2000). CURRENT PRESTIGE OF HERBALISTS Today herbalists have faith in profiting people by making their decent health by always using natural sources. Herbs are measured to be food rather than medicine because they are complete, all natural and pure, as nature intended. When herbs are reserved, the body starts to get rinsed out, it gets itself decontaminated. Diverse chemically manufactured, exceedingly concentrated drugs that can produce several side effects generally, herbs can efficiently realign the body's defense system. Herbs do not produce immediate cures, but relatively offer a way out to put the 1 P a g e body improper tune with nature. Since prehistoric time, humans have used herbs traditionally. Herbs have typically been used in the following ways possibly: Generally in cooking for flavoring foods, many were used as perfumes, some of them as disinfectants, to keep us safe against germs, some as medicines to heal when we are sick (Kapoor et al.,2000). ROLE OF HERBS IN NATURE Mother Nature has provided human, the favorite creations of God, with all that he desired to live on this earth: water to slake dehydration, air to breathe, grains to hunger, fire to light and so on. Human body is the microcosm of the entire cosmos and the answer to all human complications lies in retaining harmony with the cosmic rhythm. Nature has offered the means to maintain that balance. Herbs are one such means. A herb is a plant or plant extract, barks, leaves, roots, seeds, stems, gums, and flowers which are imparted through nourishing and healing elements. Herbs are the endowment of Mother Nature which has been used for healthcare throughout different ages and cultures of human history. Human beings are negligent to the worth of herbs due to chemical medication, human misplaced harmonization to the tempo of Natural world and thus undergo many side effects. Herbs have the essentials that assist the human body to live in concurrence with nature and its decree. Herbal action not only heals but
also appearances after the body to live a vigorous and fertile life. Herbs have been used for healthcare all over the human history and are once again being familiar for their true worth. Herbal medicine and herbal extracts are the leading aspects in all conventional medicine counting Ayurvedic, homeopathic, naturopathic, traditional oriental, and Inhabitant American Indian medicine. At the moment is the time when prevailing human should be thankful for the goodness of medicinal herbs by counting them into their life style thus, living an impartial and vigorous life. Herbs are the most usual way to restore to health all kind of diseases, from insignificant disorder to the most life unapproachable ones (Kapoor et al; 2002). THERAPEUTIC VALUE OF HERBS In herbal drugs, aromatic plant that can be used in place of their beneficial or medical significance. Herbal medicines and treatment can be disseminated into eight partitions in Ayurveda: Surgery, General medicine, ENT and Eye Disease, Psychiatry, Toxicology, Gynecology, Pediatrics, Sexology and Virility. Here are various pearls lying in the deep ocean of the huge information of this organization, we just desire to dive in and search the herbs which are prized for curative, aromatic or savory qualities that act on the body and bestow a healthy soul in a healthy body. Herbs have been used for centuries across numerous cultures to cure various ailments and to retain a healthy body. The medicinal assistances of herbs have been well documented throughout the centuries, mainly in China and India. Western countries are beginning to realize the benefits of herbal therapies and are adopting them as effective alternative medicine practices. Associated to synthetic drugs, herbs are natural, effective, and gentle when used properly (Modak, 2007). ROLE OF HERBS IN COSMETICS Natural herbs aid in defense and enhance the beauty and character of human beings. Natural cosmetic is local term applied to all investigation that lie outside beautifying and conditioning the body. Beauty, the dominance that provides feeling to the wisdoms, is probably the wish of all human beings on the land. Some are born beautiful and some are in fact made beautiful. Aesthetic form has always been a problem of foremost importance. Beauty is not only connected to the females, as is frequently thought, but men also used cosmetic products. Cosmetics usually claim to improve skin tone, radiance and texture, while reducing wrinkling. Herbal cosmetics are the preparations, which characterize cosmetic associated with active bioactive ingredients or pharmaceuticals. The uses of photochemical from a diversity of botanicals have two purposes; (a) They assist as cosmetics for a care of body and its parts. (b) The botanical constituents present affect, biological roles of skin and are responsible for nutrients that are necessary for the healthy skin or hair. Herbal products are not deliberated under the preview of medications and regulations of food and medicine administrations. The same cosmetics, these are subjected for their security according to their current rules of the unlike republics. Typically it is not compulsory for a producer to claim that how bioactive constituents enter the skin or that these components cause medicine like or healing effect. PREPARATION OF HERBAL COSMETICS Herbal products preparation method is normally divided in3 forms: (a) Solid category of herbal cosmetics: Face packs, Face powders, Talcum powders, Masks, Cake make-up and Compact powders. 2 P a g e
(b) Semi solids categories of herbal cosmetics: Creams, Ointments, pastes, Wax base creams and Liniments. (c) Liquids as herbal cosmetics: Lotions, Conditioners, Deodorants, Hair oil, Moisturizers, Liniments, Shampoos, Sprays, Cleansing milk and Mouth washes (Branes, 2002). The formation of any herbal cosmetics chiefly monitors the same method as in the case of cosmetics. In preparation, suitable bioactive ingredients of their extracts are used along with essential ingredients chiefly used for cosmetics. It needs variety of appropriate emulsifying agent, and renewed methodology to get appropriate product of specified parameters. The herbal cosmetics preparation is a sophistical and sensitive scientific profile because it preserves the bioactivity of the botanicals during extreme handling and determines their accessibility after application on skin. It is required that producers should confirm the quality of products through reasonable testing at their level. Other factors like organoleptic features, viscosity, ph, stability towards light and refrigeration should also be estimated (Vanka et al., 2000). MAJOR CATEGORIES OF HERBAL COSMETICS Cosmetics for increasing the look of facial skin. Cosmetics for hair growth and care. Cosmetics for skin care, particularly in teenager. Shampoos, soaps, powders and perfumes. Miscellaneous products. ALOEVERA: Aloe Vera is locally known as Kuwar Gandal that belongs to the family Liliaceae. It cultivates in dry climates such as those found in parts of India and Africa and has been used therapeutically for centuries. Aloe leaves hideaway a clear gel that when broken off from the rest of the plant that can be useful characteristically to soothe skin and heal wounds. It is also said to be beneficial in curing burns and wounds, skin infections, diabetes, cysts and raised blood lipids in individuals, and displays certain promise in treating more severe and persistent circumstances such as genital herpes, psoriasis, eczema, dandruff, cancer sores and skin ulcers. AZADIRACHTA INDICA: The herb, Azadirachta indicia belongs tofamily Meliaceae, Locally known as Neem. Neem has the properties of a beauty enhancer and as blood purifier. It is consumed for a number of therapeutic purposes. Certain places where it can be used in treatment of common cosmetic complications are skin cleanser. Amongst the above stated classes, the skin care will take over Cosmeceutical demand in the future, predominantly for the certified products used for improving chemical peels, facial implants and associated product. HERBS USED FOR SKIN CARE AS COSMETICS 3 P a g e CALENDULA OFFICINALIS: Calendula officinalis is a perennial herb belongs to the
class of Asteraceae. Calendule in the liquid form is usually used to cure acne, decreasing infection, sooth irritated tissue and control bleeding. There is an adequate indication that calendula ointment or cream is effective incurring contamination dermatitis. found that coconut oil aided to avoid protein loss from the wet combing of hair when used for 14 hours. Camellia sinensis: It is a type of tea that is prepared exclusively from leaves of Camellia sinensis which belongs to the class of Thecae whether applied characteristically and used up as a dietary supplement or beverage, it is also a skin protector. It defends against direct damage to the cell and inflammation. Inquiries recommend that catechus in the Green tea are certain and its oxidant power are twenty times stronger than Vitamin E. Male, female and Childs need to point its protection on their side contrary to devastating special effects of sun. DAUCU S CAROTA: It s picked up from the herb Daucus carota belongs to the class of Apiaceae. Its apprized plant because it s a rich natural sources of vitamins, beside other energetic Vitamin. Carotapits oil is very concentrating for Anti-Aging, rejuvenating plus revitalizing. It helps as the development of fresh cells. COC OS NUCIFERA: The oil of Coconut patents from seed or fruit of Coconut tree Cocos nucifera, which belongs to family Arecaceae. The melting point of coconut oil is (24-25 ºC), and thus it can be used definitely in both solid and liquid forms and is normally used in baking and cooking. Coconut oil is exceptional as a softener and skin moisturizer. A study demonstrates that extra virgin coconut oil is effective and safe when used as a moisturizer, with absence of opposing reactions. A study HELIANTHUS ANNUUS: Helianthus annuus, locally known as Suraj Mukhi belongs to family Asteraceae. The non-volatile oil extracted from sunflower seeds. The oil of sunflower has carotenoids, lecithin and waxes. In cosmetics, it has flattening properties and is well-thought-out as non comedogenic. 4 P a g e
OCIMUM SANCTUM: Commonly called as Holy basil and locally as Tulsi, is omnipresent in tradition. Maybe it acts as healing basil was influential in its blessed association. MATRICARIA CHAMOMILLA: Matricaria chamomilla, known as German chamomile or scented mayweed is an annual herb of the composite family. Asteraceae. Chamomile is also used cosmetically, mostly to make a rinse for golden hair and as a yellow dye for fabrics EMBLICA OFFICINALIS: Amla is gained from the plant Emblica Officinalis that belongs to Family Euphorbiaceae. Amla is rich in Vitamin C, tannins and various other minerals such as iron, phosphorus and calcium which are responsible for nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair, assist in decreasing rumples. It goes as Natural toner and rejuvenator for the skin. PRUNUS SEROTINA: The bark of wild Cherry has properties that makes the hair silky, smooth and adds body to the hair. The dried stem bark of Prunus serotina, gathered in autumn in North America is used in cherry flavorings for food, medicines and cosmetics in lipsticks. Also used as a sedative and expectorant curatively. LAWSONIA INERMIS: Henna comes from the plant, Lawsonia inermis which belongs to family Lythraceae that contains a dye molecule known as Lawsone, which when treated or processed becomes Henna powder or Mehendi. Henna has a natural sympathy with the proteins in our hair, making it able to stain the color onto the hair shaft 5 P a g e According to Ayurveda, several factors determine youthfulness and skin health. These consist of appropriate moisture equilibrium, active form of metabolic process that synchronizes the discrete organic reactions of skin besides the effective movement of blood plus nutrients toward various coats of outer skin. A real Ayurveda anti-aging cosmeceutical would offer supporter toward all these. RHODIOLA ROSEA: Rhodiola rosea is a plant that belongs to Crassulaceae family, which cultivates in icy areas. This type of root has been recycled in old remedial structure in
Asia plus Europe toward raise a microorganism struggle against bodily stress; presently it is believed that they have antioxidative properties (Choi et al., 2001). SOME PLANTS AND HERBS USED AS COSMETICS BY LOCAL PEOPLE Scientific name Vernacular name Part used Therapeutic uses Acorus calamus Sweet flag Rhizome The rhizome is aromatic, used for making dusting powders and skin lotions. Sesamum indicum Til Seeds Used as hair tonic Syzygium aromaticum Clove Buds Used as antiseptic Terminalia belerica Baheda Fruit Used as hair tonic Rosa centifolia Gulab Flowers Antifatigue and Coolant Wedelia calendulacea Bhangra Whole plant Used for hair care in shampoos Sapindus trifoliatus Soap wort Fruit Used as natural detergent and used in shampoos Marticaria chamomilla Chamomile Flowers Used as hair tonic Lawsonia alba Henna Leaves Used for hair growth, Natural conditioner and natural dye Hibiscus rosa sinensis Shoe flower Flowers Improves hair loss and prevents greyness Emblica officinalis Amla Fruits Anti-stress, Hair care and prevents grayness Eclipta alba Bhringraj Whole Plant Promoting hair growth, Used in shampoos Centella asiatica Gotu kola Whole Plant Used for hair care for darkening of hairs, for wound healing Cedrus deodara Deodar Wood Used in soaps and shampoos Bacopa monneri Brahmi whole plant Used in Shampoos for Hair growth Acacia concina Shikakai Pods Used for detergent, dandruff and natural cleansing agent Zizyphus jujuba Zizyphus Fruit Used for skin care Triticum sativum Wheat germ Germ It is natural source of Vit E Terminalia chebula Harda Fruit Astringent Rubia cordifolia Manjistha Roots Wound healing, Lighten pigmentation marks on skin Pongamia glabra Karanj Seeds Used externally for skin problems Ocimum sanctum Tulsi Whole plant Antibacterial, Decrease dark spots on skin Moringa oleifera Benjamin Seeds Used in lotions Mesua ferrea Cobras saffron Flowers Astringent Glycyrrhiza glabra Mulathi Roots Anti-inflammatory, Decrease pigmentation marks Euphorbia hirta Spurge Herb whole plant Used for cracked lips and skin diseases Dacus Carota Gajar Seed Natural source of Vit A used to makes creams Cyperus rotundus Nagarmotha Roots Astringent, Anti-inflammatory, Suntan Curcuma longa Haldi Rhizome Anti-microbial, Anti-bacterial, Used in Skin creams 6 P a g e
Citrus aurantium Orange Peel Anti-acne and anti-bacterial used for skin treatment in creams Cichorium intybus Chicory Seeds Clears skin of blemishes Calendula officinalis Gutta Flowers Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic, Used in Creams for skin care Azadirachta indica Neem Leaves Antiseptic, Antibacterial, Reduce dark spots on skin Avena sativa Jai Fruit Used as a moisturizer and skin tonic. Alpinia galanga Galanga Rhizome Aromatic, Dusting powders Aloe Vera Kuwar Gandal Leaves It is Emollient, Moisturizer and used for sun screen. Allium sativum. Thoom Bulb Antibacterial and promotes skin healing. CONCLUSION The consumption of herbal medicines has improved in this era, and there is a huge demand for the herbal medicines growing day by day because of their best result and lesser side effects. The attentiveness and necessity for cosmetic products by aromatic plant is on upswing, it s as muscularly supposed that all goods are secure and without side effects. It is seen that several goods make ordinary privileges are based expansively upon artificial useful components to which regular raw extract is added. Studies have been conceded in recent times towards progress of cosmetics and medicines. REFERENCES Modak, M., Dixit, P., Londhe, J., Ghaskadbi, S., & Devasagayam, T. P. A. (2007). Indian herbs and herbal drugs used for the treatment of diabetes.journal of clinical biochemistry and nutrition, 40(3), 163. Choi, S. W., Son, B. W., Son, Y. S., Park, Y. I., Lee, S. K., & Chung, M. H. (2001). The wound healing effect of a glycoprotein fraction isolated from aloe vera. British Journal of Dermatology, 145(4), 535-545. Kapoor, V. P., Joshi, H., & Chaubey, M. (2000). Applications of seed gums in pharmaceutical formulations. Journal of Medicinal and Aromatic Plant Sciences, 22(4a), 42-44. Kapoor, V. P. (2002). Role of natural colours in food industry. Proc Sem Develop Food Process Ind Uttar Pradesh, 16-17. Scartezzini, P., & Speroni, E. (2000). Review on some plants of Indian traditional medicine with antioxidant activity. Journal of ethnopharmacology, 71(1), 23-43. Vanka, A., Tandon, S., Rao, S. R., Udupa, N., & Ramkumar, P. (2000). The effect of indigenous Neem Azadirachta indica [correction of (Adirachta indica)] mouth wash on Streptococcus mutans and lactobacilli growth. Indian journal of dental research: official publication of Indian Society for Dental Research, 12(3), 133-14. 7 P a g e