Elementis Specialties pure in cosmetics April 14, 2015
Presenting Rheoluxe Associative Thickeners for Personal Care The next big idea in rheology
Market needs Product texture is a very important product consideration for the consumer. They have more choices and are likely to try products that offer unique experiences. New products have textures described as bouncy, spongy, or even paste. Unexpected experiences such as buttery creams that feel like milk lotions, flowing lotions that feel like rich emollient creams, light mousse make up with high pigment loading challenge the formulator.
Rheoluxe Developed specifically for personal care, the Rheoluxe series improves viscosity in all types of emulsion systems O Outstanding sensory profile smooth, soft to the touch, no tacky or negative aesthetics O Compatible with anionic, non-ionic and cationic emulsifiers O Compatible in systems with extreme ph or high electrolyte concentration O Superior viscosity build O No impact on stability O Efficacy in extreme conditions O Ease of handling can be added at any point of the emulsion process
Mechanism of Action Associative thickeners mechanism of action Associative thickeners increase the viscosity of aqueous systems through a system of molecular associations and interactions. The thickeners consist of water soluble polymeric chains modified with hydrophobic caps. The hydrophobic caps of the polymer associate, that is build a structured network with other hydrophobes in the formula. This results in micelle type structures that form a network resulting in significant viscosity build. Rheoluxe structure Hydrophobic Cap Hydrophilic Chain Hydrophobic Cap
Mechanism of Action Fully Networked Polymer micelle structure Hydrophobic Particle Emulsifier/surfactant Hydrophobic tail Emulsifier/surfactant Hydrophilic head Hydrophobic Particle Hydrophobic Particle Hydrophobic particle may be pigment, organoclay, sunscreen, etc. Associative polymer Hydrophilic polymer chain Hydrophobic caps (red blocks)
Rheoluxe Rheoluxe 812 Bis-Lauryl Cocaminopropylamine/HDI/PEG-100 Copolymer Polyurethane associative thickener Provides rheological control in aqueous and emulsion systems Rheoluxe 880 Bis-C16-20 Isoalkoxy TMHDI/PEG-90 Copolymer Polyurethane associative thickener Ideal to increase viscosity of oil in water emulsions while maintaining excellent skin feel. Rheoluxe 8015 PEG/PPG-450/50 Trimethylolpropane Dodecyl Ether Polyether Polyol associative thickener Provides rheological control in silicone in water and water in silicone based systems Increases viscosity in sulfate free surfactant systems
Rheoluxe Rheoluxe 812 High viscosity build. Shear thinning. Viscosity Effective ph range: Typical use level: Mixing method: 2 11 1.0 3.0% Rheoluxe 812 disperses quickly in water with standard mixing. Can be added at any point in the emulsion process. Compatibility: Water soluble. Glycols may decrease viscosity. Rheoluxe 880 High viscosity build. Shear thinning 2 11 1.0 3.0% Post addition of Rheoluxe 880 is recommended. No special mixing is required. High HLB emulsifiers may decrease viscosity Rheoluxe 8015 Moderate viscosity build. High shear range. 2-11 0.5 5.0% Rheoluxe 8015 disperses quickly in water with standard mixing. Can be added at any point in the emulsion process. Best viscosity build is in silicone based systems.
Rheoluxe Rheoluxe 812 Rheoluxe 880 Rheoluxe 8015 25% Solids 30% Solids 50% Solids Translucent Translucent Transparent 5,000 20,000cps 3,000 10,000cps 1,000 10,000cps Mercury <1ppm Arsenic <3ppm Lead <10ppm Solution in Butylene Glycol and Water Mercury <1ppm Arsenic <3ppm Lead <10ppm Solution in Propylene Glycol and Water Mercury <1ppm Arsenic <3ppm Lead <10ppm Aqueous Solution
Rheoluxe 812 Viscosity can be controlled in emulsion systems containing Rheoluxe 812, without affecting the feel in any way; allowing light textures to remain light and soft to the touch.
Rheoluxe 812 Impact on emulsion viscosity 80000 70000 60000 Viscosity in cps 50000 40000 30000 Base system 3% Rheoluxe 812 20000 10000 0 Nonionic Emulsion Anionic Emulsion Cationic Emulsion Significantly increases the viscosity of oil in water emulsions, regardless of emulsifier choice.
Rheoluxe 812 Moisturizing Body Cream B-1000-01 A Deionized Water 76.50 Glycerin 3.00 Rheoluxe 812 (Elementis Specialties) 3.00 B Dracorin CE (Symrise) 4.00 Fancol VB (Elementis Specialties) 5.00 Multiple Hydration Complex (Elementis Specialties) 3.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 3.00 Fancol CH (Elementis Specialties) 0.50 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 C Euxyl K701 (Schulke & Mayr) 1.00 Procedure: 1. Heat phase A ingredients to 80C with propeller mixing. 2. Combine phase B ingredients and heat to 80C with propeller mixing. 3. Add phase B to phase A with moderate speed propeller mixing. 4. Cool to 45C and add phase C ingredients to batch. 5. Cool to room temperature with mixing. Vixcosity: RV T-E @ 20rpm: 38,250cps ph: 4.48
Rheoluxe 812 600 500 Flow Curves Control without Rheoluxe 812 Moisturizing Body Cream B-1000-01 Viscosity (Pa.s) 400 300 200 100 0 0.01 0.1 1 10 100 1000 Shear Rate (1/s)
Rheoluxe 812 O Concentration curve 2500000 2000000 Viscosity (cps) 1500000 1000000 500000 Rheoluxe 812 0 0% 1% 2% 3% 4% 5% Use Level
Rheoluxe 812 2500000 Viscosity (cps) 2000000 1500000 1000000 500000 Base Formula 5% Rheoluxe 812 Stable viscosity regardless of ph level or salt content. 0 0 1 4 Sodium Chloride concentration Viscosity (cps) 400000 350000 300000 250000 200000 150000 100000 50000 0 2 4 7 10 ph 5% Rheoluxe 812 Base formula
Rheoluxe 880 Rheoluxe 880 was designed to impart rheological control and film forming benefits in aqueous and emulsion systems. It is a highly efficient rheological modifier for use in formulations with difficult to thicken conditions such as extreme ph or high electrolyte concentration.
Rheoluxe 880 Oil Based Eye Shadow A FANCOL ID-CG (Elementis Specialties) 43.80 BENTONE GEL ISD V (Elementis Specialties) 10.00 Hydrogenated Coco Glycerides 10.00 Ozokerite 8.00 Carnauba Wax 5.00 Beeswax 2.00 Propylparaben 0.20 B Sun Prizma Concord Crush (Sun Chemical) 10.00 Timiron Pearl Flake (EMD) 5.00 Nylon-12 1.00 C Rheoluxe 880 (Elementis Specialties) 5.00 Procedure: 1. Combine Phase A and heat to 75-80 C. 2. Mix Phase A togther using a Silverson Homogeniser. 3. Add Phase B and continue to mix for 15 minutes. 4. Transfer product to a stirrer. 5. Add Phase C at 1000rpm. 6. Increase speed to 2000rpm and mix for 10 minutes. 7. Pour off and allow to cool. C-2000-02
Rheoluxe 880
Rheoluxe 880 Impact on transfer resistance Oil based eye shadow 40 35 30 25 20 15 Color Change (Delta E) Weight loss (%) 10 5 0 Base system - no polymer Weight loss (%) Color Change (Delta E) 5.0% Rheoluxe 880 Improvement in transfer resistance of color cosmetic formulations.
Rheoluxe 880 Impact on transfer resistance Water based eye shadow 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 Color Change (Delta E) Weight loss (%) 6 4 2 0 Base system - no polymer 0.5% Rheoluxe 880 Weight loss (%) Color Change (Delta E) Improvement in transfer resistance of color cosmetic formulations.
Rheoluxe 880 Impact on transfer resistance Water in Silicone Foundation 5 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 Color Change (Delta E) Weight loss (%) 1.5 1 0.5 0 Base system - no polymer Weight loss (%) Color Change (Delta E) 5.0% Rheoluxe 880 Improvement in transfer resistance of color cosmetic formulations.
Rheoluxe 880 O Concentration curve 200000 160000 Viscosity (cps) 120000 80000 40000 Rheoluxe 880 0 0% 1% 2% 3% 4% 5% Use Level
Rheoluxe 880 Viscosity [cp] O Salt tolerance 160000 140000 120000 100000 80000 60000 40000 20000 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 salt [%] 0% 2% Rheoluxe 880 5% Rheoluxe 880 60000 50000 O ph tolerance Viscosity [cp] 40000 30000 20000 0% 2% Rheoluxe 880 10000 0 0 2 4 6 8 10 1 day ph
Rheoluxe 8015 Rheoluxe 8015 imparts rheological control and highshear viscosity in aqueous and emulsion systems. Rheology is Newtonian. Rheoluxe 8015 imparts a rich feel to emulsion systems and may help to increase film thickness.
Rheoluxe 8015 Impact on emulsion viscosity 35000 30000 25000 20000 Base system 3% Rheoluxe 8015 15000 10000 5000 0 Nonionic emulsion with Dimethicone W/Si Emulsion
Rheoluxe 8015 O Concentration curve 120000 Viscosity (cps) 90000 60000 30000 Rheoluxe 8015 0 0% 1% 2% 3% 4% 5% Use Level
Rheoluxe 8015 O Salt tolerance Viscosity [cp] 90000 80000 70000 60000 50000 40000 30000 20000 10000 0 0 1 2 3 4 5 salt [%] 0% 5% Rheoluxe 8015 Viscosity [cp] O ph tolerance 80000 70000 60000 50000 40000 30000 20000 10000 0 0 2 4 6 8 10 ph 0% 5% Rheoluxe 8015
Introducing Rheoluxe 811 For Sulfate-Free Systems
Sulfate Free Trend Why is Sulfate-Free important? Consumers increasingly seek gentler hair products that are free from harsh chemicals that might strip hair of natural oils. Sulfate-free implies product mildness and reinforces moisturizing claims. The perception of sulfatefree products as safer has expanded and has embraced other ethical values such as environmentally friendly packaging and no animal testing. Launches of sulfate-free shampoo vs. all shampoo, % by claim, global: January 2010 August 2013 Sulfate-free All (%) (%) Botanical/herbal 80 57 Ethical animal 51 9 Paraben free 50 13 Moisturising / hydrating 45 31 Ethical - environmentally friendly package Source: Mintel GNPD 36 12
Sulfate Free Trend Why is Sulfate-Free important? 25% Top sub-categories with sulfate-free positioning by % of total new products, global: 2009 2013 20% 15% 10% 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 5% 0% Face/Neck Care Source: Mintel GNPD Shampoo Body Care Shower Products Conditioner Lip Colour Hair Cosmetics Treatments - Lip Colour Liquid Soap Hand/Nail Care Bath Additives
Sulfate Free Trend Why is Sulfate-Free important?
This shampoo will renew your hair to its naturally healthy, most balanced state with each wash. Infused with the power of balancing ACTIVE NATURALS Seaweed Extract and naturally derived cleansers, this formula with sulfate-free NATRASURF technology works to lift away impurities without overstripping, helping to rebalance hair's optimal moisture levels, leaving it shiny, healthier looking, and full of life. Safe for color-treated hair. Sulfate Free Trend Why is Sulfate-Free important? For all hair types. Sulfate-free, silicone-free, oil-free. Safe for color and chemically treated hair. Effectively removes impurities and is sulfate free.
Rheoluxe 811 Rheoluxe 811 imparts rheological control in difficult to thicken sulfate-free surfactant systems. Use level: 0.5 3.0% INCI Name: Steareth- 100/PEG-136/HMDI Copolymer
Rheoluxe 811 Betafan-M 25% solid Ratio Surfactant: Rheoluxe 811 Viscosity(cps) RV#TE, 10rpm, 21oC Rheoluxe 811 Wt% 1 3 0.33 66900 2 3 0.67 123750 3 3 1.00 163400 4 3 1.33 160333 5 3 1.67 127700 1 2 0.50 16800 2 2 1.00 31166 3 2 1.50 40900 4 2 2.00 19000 5 2 2.50 14300 3% Rheoluxe 811 2% Rheoluxe 811
Rheoluxe 811 A simple Shampoo Base was created to evaluate the efficacy of Rheoluxe 811 in sulfate-free systems. Shampoo Base #1 #2 #3 #4 #5 Deionized Water 66.00 65.00 64.25 63.00 62.00 Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 22.00 Betafan-M 12.00 12.00 12.00 12.00 12.00 Rheoluxe 811 0 1.00 1.75 2.00 3.00
Rheoluxe 811 Rheoluxe 811 is able to significantly increase the viscosity of a sulfate free system. 80000 Shampoo Base Rheoluxe 811 Gelling Efficiency 74100 70000 60000 0% Rheoluxe 811 Viscosity (cp) 50000 40000 30000 30050 1% Rheoluxe 811 1.75% Rheoluxe 811 2% Rheoluxe 811 20000 3% Rheoluxe 811 10000 0 10 15 20 Rheoluxe Concetration (wt%)
Rheoluxe 811 Rheoluxe 811 has a surprising synergy with salt, which allows for cost effective viscosity build and rheology control. Viscosity (cp) 20000 10000 0 Shampoo Base 1.0% Rheoluxe 811 Thickening Synergy with Salt 15 15 150 NaCl (wt%) Addition 2500 16500 0% NaCl 1.0% NaCl 2% NaCl 2.5% NaCl Shampoo Base 1.75% Rheoluxe 811 Thickening Synergy with Salt Viscosity (cp) 30000 20000 10000 0 20 340 NaCl (wt%) Addition 27000 0% NaCl 1.0% NaCl 2% NaCl
Rheoluxe 811 Rheoluxe 811 provides effective viscosity control to sulfate-free surfactant systems. Supplied as a 100% active powder, it is easy to process and delivers stable, reproducible results. Systems containing Rheoluxe 811 provide a lasting rich creamy foam Rheoluxe 811 is synergistic with salt. Rheoluxe 811 is compatible with a wide range of surfactants
Rheoluxe O Super viscosity build O Outstanding sensory profile O Broad compatibility O Efficacy in extreme conditions O High salt tolerance O Ease of handling can be added at any point of the emulsion process O Cold processable O New textures
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