We thank the following companies for having provided us the raw material samples which enabled us to carry out our formulas... lban Muller, rnaud, BSF, Baerlocher, Cargill, Cognis, Clariant, Croda, DKSH, Dow Corning, Dr Straetmans, DSM, Evonik, Granula, IES Labo, Interchimie, ISP, LCW, Merck, Prod hyg, Sictia, Stearinerie Dubois, Unipex, Vanessence.... and Boya Enterprise Co,Ltd, Pinard Emballage & Parispack for the packaging Z Les Belles Fontaines - 99 Route de Versailles - 91160 Champlan - France Tel : Tel: +33 1 69 10 69 69 - Fax : +33 1 69 10 69 70 www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com Suncare Formulations
LUCS MEYER COSMETICS Suncare formulations Suncare products are continually redeveloped to satisfy consumer needs. The challenge for formulators nowadays is to combine an optimal protection against UV rays with pleasure during application. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has developed formulas using each of its phospholipid-based emulsifiers in order to present different textures from sprayable to thick creams and from medium to high SPF. ll formulations provide the typical Phospholipid Touch characterized by a cool, soft and non-tacky skin feel. So let s get inspired by the new Lucas Meyer Cosmetics suncare range and take the best of our emulsifiers to create specific formulas.
LUCS MEYER COSMETICS EMULSIFIERS IN SUNCRE The efficiency of suncare products depends mainly on the solubilisation of UV-filters and the dispersion of sunscreens, ensured by a certain amount of oily ingredients in the formula. This important oil phase has to be emulsified using efficient emulsifiers. LUCS MEYER COSMETICS emulsifiers are a good technical solution to formulate stable and sensorial suncare products: HELIOFEEL MISOL SOFT HELIOGEL BIOPHILIC H BIOPHILIC S LECIGEL LOTION CREM LIPSTICK SPRY GEL-CREM Developed with either soybean or sunflower phospholipids, each emulsifier has specific properties allowing a wide choice of solutions to answer specific needs: Stable O/W emulsions, Low to high SPF, Several kinds of texture: sprayable milk, lotion, gelcream, cream, stick Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has developed 6 suncare products and an after-sun product. Each formula is: For face and body For all skin types With UV and UVB filters With a melting and non-tacky texture Easy to apply Most of the UV-filters used are chemical and accepted by the European regulation. The SPF is a theoretical value. This table helps to find the right emulsifier to create the appropriate sun cream: LOW Protection MEDIUM Protection HIGH Protection Secondary Main Secondary Main emulsifier emulsifier emulsifier emulsifier Main emulsifier HELIOFEEL MISOL SOFT Sensorial Sensorial BIOPHILIC H BIOPHILIC S - LECIGEL / HELIOGEL Stabilizing Stabilizing Secondary emulsifier Sensorial Stabilizing LUCS MEYER COSMETICS EMULSIFIERS RE GOOD PRTNERS FOR SUNCRE FORMULTIONS
SUNCRE SPRY - MEDIUM SPF SUNCRE SPRY 1.03 C100 light texture with an optimal sun protection Suncare Spray is a medium SPF protection suncream for either face or body skin. Dermofeel P-3** LECIGEL * Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin 59.90 0.30 The sprayable fluid texture is obtained thanks to HELIOFEEL, a natural sunflower phospholipid-based emulsifier able to form ultra-fluid emulsions even with a high oil phase in the formula. Suncare Spray also provides a moisturizing action thanks to the film-forming properties of HELIOFEEL phospholipids, decreasing the TEWL of the skin. With Suncare Spray, the skin is both well protected and well hydrated. B HELIOFEEL * Phenonip Eusolex 2292 Escalol 597 Parsol 1789 Tinosorb S Dermofeel TOCO 70 NON GMO** bil 350 Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate Octocrylene Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate Dimethicone C Summer 2721** Fragrance ph: 4.5-5.5 Viscosity: 10 000-25 000 mpa.s 4.00 0.80 7.50 8.00 4.00 1. Heat and B up to 80-85 C. 2. dd B into under maximum stirring for 3 minutes. 3. Cool down under medium stirring. 4. dd C below 40 C. 5. djust the ph if necessary. HELIOFEEL Natural sunflower phospholipid-based O/W emulsifier Fluid and sprayable texture Light skin feel
SUNCRE LOTION - MEDIUM SPF SUNCRE LOTION 1.05 C94 Efficient protection for the most sensitive skin... Suncare Lotion is a supple emulsion which offers medium protection with an unctuous sensation upon application. Gentle emulsifier, MISOL SOFT is a complex of phospholipids, phytosterols and vegetable lipids forming lamellar emulsions with various viscosities. Its composition close to the skin s one makes it particularly suitable for the most sensitive skins. It makes Suncare Lotion easy to spread over the skin. Thanks to its sensorial texture, it can also be used as an everyday cream leaving the skin feeling velvety and silky. B Dermofeel P-3** Dermosoft LP** Satiaxane CX 91 Tinosorb M MISOL SOFT* Eusolex 2292 Escalol 597 Parsol 1789 Dermofeel TOCO 70 NON GMO** DC 345 Dermofeel SENSOLV** Caprylyl glycol (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) (and) Phenyl propanol (and) Xanthan gum Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol Behenyl alcohol (and) Glyceryl stearate (and) Lecithin (and) Glycine soja (soybean) sterols Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate Octocrylene Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Cyclopentasiloxane Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate Isoamyl laurate 63.6 0.40 6.00 7.50 C Summer 2721** Fragrance ph: 5.5-6.5 Viscosity: 70 000-100 000 mpa.s MISOL SOFT Gentle lamellar O/W emulsifier Various cream textures Suitable for sensitive skin 1. Heat and B up to 70-75 C. 2. dd B into under slow stirring. 3. Hydrate the phospholipids under medium stirring for 20 minutes. 4. Homogenize B under maximum stirring for 3 minutes. 5. Cool down under medium stirring. 6. dd C below 40 C. 7. djust the ph if necessary.
SUNCRE LIGHT GEL-CREM MEDIUM SPF SUNCRE LIGHT GEL-CREM 3.04 C100 refreshing sensation on the skin Developed with LECIGEL, Suncare Light Gel-Cream is a medium protection suncare which combines the cool sensation of a gel with all the smoothness of a cream. Gel-cream textures can be obtained when LECIGEL, a phospholipid-based gelling with emulsifying properties, is used as the main emulsifier in formula. It provides a delicious aqueous sensation as well as a soft and non-tacky skin feel. B Dermofeel P-3** Satiaxane CX 91 Tinosorb M Phenonip Eusolex 2292 Escalol 597 Parsol 1789 Dermofeel TOCO 70 NON GMO** Dermofeel GSC** Myritol 318 Xanthan gum Methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate Octocrylene Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Butylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate Glyceryl stearate citrate Caprylic/capric triglycerides 6 8.00 0.80 7.50 C LECIGEL * Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin D KSG -16 Dimethicone (and) Vinyl dimethicone E Summer 2721** Fragrance ph: 5.5-6.5 Viscosity: > 100 000 mpa.s LECIGEL Easy-to-use gelling with emulsifying properties High compatibility with oils Sensorial gel-cream textures 1. Heat and B up to 70-75 C. 2. dd BC into under maximum stirring for 5 minutes. 3. Stir until the product is smooth and homogeneous. 4. dd D under maximum stirring for 1 minute. 5. Cool down under medium stirring. 6. dd E below 40 C. 7. djust the ph if necessary. **= Distributed in France by Lucas Meyer Cosmetic
SUNCRE CREM - MEDIUM SPF SUNCRE CREM - MEDIUM SPF 0.266.03 C100 Enjoy the sun with a pleasant texture Thanks to the high sensorial properties of BIOPHILIC H, Suncare Cream is an emulsion offering a soft and comfortable feeling on the skin. The presence of hydrogenated phospholipids in BIOPHILIC H helps the creation of a rigid lamellar network, providing richer textures. Moreover, the lamellar structure of Suncare Cream contributes to the decrease in the TEWL for good skin hydration. The sophisticated touch of Suncare Cream is perfect for using as a UV-protection everyday cream. B Dermofeel P-3** migel BIOPHILIC H* Dermofeel TOCO 70 NON GMO** Escalol 597 Heliosol 2 Tinosorb S KSG -16 Dermofeel GSC** DC 200.5 CS Sclerotium gum Hydrogenated lecithin (and) C12-C16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid Butylene glycol dicaprylate/ dicaprate Octocrylene Octyl salicylate Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine Dimethicone (and) Vinyl dimethicone Glyceryl stearate citrate Dimethicone 63.50 0.50 4.00 10.00 C Dermosoft 1388 ECO** Fragrance 4.00 D Summer 2721** Fragrance 0.50 ph: 5.0-5.5 Viscosity: 30 000-70 000 mpa.s BIOPHILIC H Natural lamellar O/W emulsifier Creamy texture Hydrating properties 1. Heat and B up to 70-75 C. 2. Hydrate the phospholipids under medium stirring for 20 minutes. 3. dd B into under stirring for 5 minutes. 4. Homogenize B under maximum stirring for 3 minutes. 5. Cool down under medium stirring. 6. dd C and D below 40 C. 7. djust the ph if necessary
SUNCRE CREM - HIGH SPF SUNCRE CREM - HIGH SPF 2.06 C100 High protection combined with sensorial texture... Suncare Cream is especially designed with HELIOFEEL to offer the best of suncare protection during extreme sun conditions. To obtain high SPF formulas, a large quantity of UV-filters and sunscreens has to be introduced in a large quantity of oily compounds. HELIOFEEL, natural sunflower phospholipid-based emulsifier, is able to emulsify a high amount of oil phase and therefore allows the formulation of high SPF suncare products. Its specific composition brings high efficacy and pleasure, and provides a smooth and light texture. B Dermofeel P-3** Satiaxane CX 91 Chlorphenesin HELIOGEL * HELIOFEEL * Phenonip Eusolex 2292 Escalol 597 Heliosol 2 Parsol 1789 Tinosorb S Dermofeel TOCO 70 NON GMO** bil 350 Crodamol B Cetiol CC Xanthan gum Chlorphenesin Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Hydrogenated polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (and) Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil Glyceryl stearate citrate (and) Polyglyceryl- 3 stearate (and) Hydrogenated lecithin Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate Octocrylene Octyl salicylate Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate Dimethicone C12-C15 alkyl benzoate Dicaprylyl carbonate 45.70 0.30 0.80 7.50 10.00 4.00 C Summer 2721** Fragrance HELIOFEEL O/W sunflower phospholipids-based emulsifier Emulsification of a high percentage of oil phase Moisturizing action ph: 4.5-5.5 Viscosity: > 100 000 mpa.s 1. Heat and B up to 80-85 C. 2. dd B into under maximum stirring for 3 minutes. 3. Cool down under medium stirring. 4. dd C below 40 C. 5. djust the ph if necessary.
SUN LIPSTICK - MEDIUM SPF SUN LIPSTICK 0.270.01 C100 Even lips have their own sun protection Sun Lipstick is a protecting and treating formula especially designed for the fragile lip zone. Lecithin is well-known for its good pigment-dispersion properties. It can be a solution for increasing the dispersion of a high amount of sunscreens incorporated in lipsticks. It therefore limits the whitening effect often observed upon application. Therefore, BIOPHILIC S is a choice ingredient to create lipstick because it contains on one hand lecithin and on the other hand waxes which maintain the breaking point, ideal for cosmetic products exposed to high temperatures. The sensorial and technical properties of BIOPHILIC S provide Sun Lipstick with a soft and easy-to-apply application with a satin finish. Myritol 318 Cetiol CC Jojoba oil Shea butter Cerilla raffinee paillettes Cerauba T1 BIOPHILIC S* Dermofeel TOCO 70 NON GMO** Granlux TG1 50** ZNO - CNJ E3 1. Put silicone oil spray in mould and put mould in oven at 45 C. 2. Heat the ingredients at 80-85 C under slow stirring. 3. Take mould out of oven and pour the formula. 4. Cool down for 5 minutes. 5. Take the top part of the formula out of mould with spatula. 6. Cool down for 5 minutes. 7. Put mould in freezer at -18 C for 10 minutes. 8. Turn out lipsticks from mould and put lipsticks in cases. Caprylic/capric triglyceride Dicaprylyl carbonate Simmondsia chinensis seed oil Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax Lecithin (and) C12-C16 alcohols (and) Palmitic acid Titanium dioxide (and) Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) Polyhydroxystearic acid (and) lumina (and) Stearic acid (and) Dimethicone Zinc oxide (and) Jojoba esters 18.20 30.70 0.90 0.90 14.70 12.10 0.50 14.00 BIOPHILIC S Mix of lecithin and waxes Improvement in sunscreen pigments dispersion Increase in sensorial properties of lipstick
FTER SUN GEL-CREM FTER SUN GEL-CREM 0.259.01 C100 Relieve your skin after a long day in the sun... fter Sun Gel-Cream is a cooling gel-cream which can be used on both face and body. Thanks to LECIGEL, the unique melting texture of fter Sun Gel-Cream offers soothing and softness for the skin. fter Sun Gel-Cream also contains also SIMULSKIN, a lamellar repairing, which reinforces the skin barrier function for immediate and long-lasting hydration. FDC Blue 1 0.1% solution Chlorphenesin Dermofeel P-3** FDC Yellow 5 0.1% solution (and) CI 42090 Chlorphenesin (and) CI 19140 B LECIGEL * Sodium acrylates copolymer (and) Lecithin 1.75 C D Dub ININ Myritol 318 Dermofeel TOCO 70 NON GMO** SIMULSKIN * SUPREM WP MNDE DOUCE* Isononyl isononanoate Butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) Phospholipids (and) Stearic acid (and) Palmitic acid (and) Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil (and) Lecithin (and) Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (and) (and) Glyceryl stearate 79.83 0.34 0.30 0.08 4.00 E Covabead PMM Polymethyl methacrylate F Chlorhexidine digluconate 20% solution (and) Chlorhexidine digluconate G Summer 2721** Fragrance LECIGEL Oil free gelling with emulsifying properties Sensorial gel-cream textures Cool skin feel ph: 5.5-6.0 Viscosity: 70000-80000 mpa.s 1. Heat and C up to 70-75 C. 2. dd B into and stir strongly (above 1200 rpm) until the product is thick and homogeneous. 3. dd C into B under maximum stirring and keep under stirring until the product is homogenous. 4. Cool down under medium stirring. 5. dd D, E, F and G below 40 C. 6. djust the ph if necessary.