Advanced facials Week 1A T1 2016
Sensitive skin Erythemic skin
Sensitivity Characteristics Reacts to external stimuli by becoming red/blotchy More easily irritated Most often fair / red hair History of reactivity - easily reactive to bites, prone to allergies 40-90% of women consider their skin sensitive Associated with Asthma, Hay Fever Blanching
Sensitivity symptoms Objective physically observed/measured Thin Epidermis Erythema Skin touch-blanches, changes to white when pressed, regains pink tone quickly often even redder Prone to dry flaky patches Premature wrinkles Subjective felt by client Hot Burning, stinging, red
Sensitive skin and barrier function Skin s thinness blood vessels and nerve endings closer to surface Impaired barrier function holes in the lipid resulting in permeable epidermis Easier for irritants to penetrate the skin s surface Diminished barrier function = TEWL May be hereditary Transient sensitivity induced sensitivity
Factors contributing to Transient sensitivity Environment Chemicals, pollution Foods, alcohol, caffeine Drugs, Medications Incorrect/aggressive/inadequate product use Impaired barrier function
Allergies Allergies: Result of immune system rejecting particular substance must have contact with substance more than once to have an allergy Allergen: Substance that provokes an allergic reaction eg cats, nuts and dust etc Antibody: Protein that helps neutralize foreign organisms in body
Allergies Allergic Symptoms: Oedema Erythema Neurological symptoms (pain, stinging, burning) Rash Wheal/Welt Urticaria (Hives)
Urticaria (hives) webmd.com
Common skin allergens Cosmetic - only responsible for 6% of skin allergies Fragrances Colour Agents Preservatives Foods Nail Products - Formaldehyde Others - Sunscreen, Benzyl Peroxide, Lanolin, Sulfur, hair
Irritant versus allergic reaction IRRITAT ION Can affect any skin type/person Caused by chemical/product that causes irritation if overused in either frequency or amount Can have reaction first time or can take accumulated exposure Occurs quickly after contact Subsides/stops on removal Usually within 30-60minutes Whole body not generally affected Mostly occurs on application sight Usually less severe Redness, stinging Amount of exposure affects degree of reaction ALLERGIC REACTIONS Affects only certain individuals Result of immune system rejecting specific substance/ingredient Often common/harmless to others Must have had contact with substance more than once Takes 6-48 hours to appear Removing product has no effect Whole body can be affected Even where substance not applied Generally more severe Redness, swelling, itching, hives Can occur from very small amount of exposure
Erythema Erythema - redness caused by inflammation Telangiectasia /Couperosedilated/broken/distended capillaries found mainly on nose, chin, cheeks, decolletage Flushing - temporary redness of skin due to stimulation Diffused redness - constant appearance of redness over skin Vascular- blood vessel related Vaso-dilation - expansion of blood capillaries when blood flows through them at greater quantity than normal www.laser-centrum.nl forum.scholieren.com
Treatment for sensitive skin Less rule Cool compresses for cleansing Light weight non fragranced products Massage rehydrate skin lymphatic drainage, pressure point massage Mask adsorbent Avoid makeup 2 hours after treatment
Reactions in the treatment room Mostly irritant may complain burning, stinging Remove whatever is on the skin with cool compress Apply cool compresses until heat and irritation calms End treatment Wait 7 days before further treatment Severe reaction refer to Dermatologist (skin specialist)
Lifestyle changes Avoid heat, fire places, hot showers Strong exfoliants and scrubs Fragranced products Over cleansing Alcohol based products Hot beverages Alcohol especially red wine
Ingredients known to decrease sensitivity Arnica: Anti-inflammatory and blood decongestant Aloe Vera: hydrating and calming Vit E: Anti-inflammatory properties, improves skin barrier function Evening Primrose: EFA, TEWL, aids with inflammation Green Tea: anti- oxidant, potent anti inflammatory agent Hyaluronic Acid increases water level, false acid mantle
Rosacea
Rosacea Common skin disorder Vascular related to blood Sudden flushing of blood to the face Lasting 10 mins Red patches, pimples, papules and capillaries Occurs at any age likely to start at 30 and 40 Hereditary Often effects fair skin people Butterfly affect
Rosacea triggers Sun exposure (22-61%) Heat Physical exertion (14%) Emotional stress (45%) Alcohol (especially red wine) Abrasive products Foods including: Hot soups, beverages Spicy foods (16%) Caffeine Aged foods (hard cheese) Thomson Delmar Learning
Subtype 1 Rosacea Diffuse redness of nose and cheeks No visible permanent capillary damage at this stage Transient erythema comes and goes May experience dryness
Subtype 2 Rosacea Often resembles Acne Difference no clogged pores or comedones Larger than normal pimples domed Primarily on nose and cheeks Dehydrated Subjective stinging, burning
Subtypes/stages of Rosacea Subtype 3 Thickened appearance Enlargement of the nose- Rhinophyma Bulbous nose More prevalent in males
Subtypes/stages of Rosacea Medical treatment Topical Antibiotics, sulfur medications Oral Antibiotics/ Retinoid LED light emitting diode - fast flashing lightsredness and sun damage - Often a series of treatment is recommended
Rosacea vs Sensitive Skin Rosacea Sensitivity Likely to start 30 40 Begins any age Flushing lasting 10 mins No flushing Butterfly effect All over face Hereditary May be transient No comedones present Any skin types comedones may be present
Deluxe Facial ERYTHEMIC SKIN TREATMENT - $65.00/$150.00 1HR 1. CLEANSE 2. ANALYSIS 3. 2 nd CLEANSE 4. EXFOLIANT- leave on for 4mins then gently buff the skin 5. GALVANIC POSITIVE POLE WITH GEL COVER WITH WET GAUZE- 7mins 6. MASSAGE 10 MINS pressure point and Lymph drainage 7. MASK 10mins hand massage removal sponge 8. EYE, MOISTURISE / Sunscreen 9. LIFE STYLE CHANGES/homecare/aftercare Monthly address home care routine / products
References Koslova-Fu, V. 2007. Cressy s Beauty Therapy Fact File, Elsevier Australia, New South Wales, Australia. Lees, M. 2007. Skin Care Beyond the Basics 3 rd Ed, Thomson Delmar Learning, Canada. Thomson Delmar Learning. 2005. Milady s Standard Fundamentals for Estheticians 9 th Ed. Thomson Delmar Learning, Canada Milady s Power Point Presentation Chapter 15 Machines Bio-Therapeutic Inc., 2007. Bio-Ultimate Gold Microcurrent System Training Manual, Seattle, Washington. Frewin, P, 2007. Microcurrent Training Notes, The Body Clinic, Brisbane, Australia.