Biomimetic 24 h hydrator
Biomimetic 24 h hydrator An Effective Hydro-Complex with a Skin-Like Moisturizing System Trimoist KMF is a blend of lamellar lipids, CM-Glucan, humectant agents and the anti-aging factor carnosine. Healthy and young skin mantains appropiate moisture levels through an intact hydrolipid film, a strong skin barrier and a high water binding capacity of the epidermis. Trimoist KMF is a 3-step moisturizing system that supports the skin s own moisture balance system with: 1. CM-Glucan: Enhances the skin s own defense system and builds a superior protecting film. 2. Skin-like lamellar lipids: Boost the barrier function of the lipid layer. 3. The humectants glycerin and lactate: Mimic the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) of the skin to provide an instant burst of hydration. Furthermore, Trimoist KMF contains carnosine, which prevents the cross-linking and stiffening of collagen and elastin by glycation this is the technical term for the process that leads to a loss of skin elasticity. Clinical studies, one of them conducted on both women and men, showed that Trimoist KMF hydrates, firms and soothes skin immediately and on a sustainable basis over a period of 14 days. Claim Ideas for Trimoist KMF Instant and all-day hydration Strengthens skin s own moisture barrier Rebuilds elasticity, firmness and smoothness Skin is even, dewy and feels at its best Applications Moisturizers Protection and anti-aging formulas Anti-glycation products Body care Formulating with Trimoist KMF Recommended concentration: 1 5 % Incorporation: For cold processes, dissolve Trimoist KMF into the aqueous phase. In cold/hot processes, add during the cooling phase below 40 C. For hydrogels: Incorporate Trimoist KMF into the water phase under homogenization with the aid of a solubilizer or emulsifying agent. INCI (EU/PCPC) Declaration Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Olus Oil/Vegetable Oil (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Glycine Soja/Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan (and) Sodium Lactate (and) Carnosine (and) Lactic Acid (and) Aqua/Water October 2016
The skin and its moisture balance system An intact water balance in the skin is made possible by three essential components: A protective hydrolipid film, a resilient barrier with the lamellar lipid layer and the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The Hydrolipid Film This is a protective layer that consists of water and lipids and is the first line of the skin s barrier defense system. It also keeps the skin soft and supple, regulates the water content of the lower layers and discourages the growth of pathological microorganisms. The Permeability Barrier A deeper level of the permeability barrier resides in the outer epidermis. The lower epidermis produces new keratinocytes on a daily basis that then migrate to the outer epidermis. During migration, they transform into dead, keratinized cells which are known as corneocytes. Embedded in a lipid matrix, the corneocytes form the stratum corneum. In human stratum corneum the major lipid classes are ceramides, cholesterol and saturated long chain free fatty acids (1, 2). This composition results in a lamellar-gel like structure that is essential for maintaining a tight water barrier (low TEWL). Natural Moisturizing Factors NMF components are highly efficient humectants that attract and bind water from the atmosphere, drawing it into the corneocytes. The water absorption is so efficient that the NMF essentially dissolves within the water that it has absorbed (3). It is principally composed of free amino acids (and its various derivatives), inorganic salts, sugars, as well as lactic acid. The NMF is packaged within the corneocytes and makes up approximately 10 % of the corneocyte mass and 20 30 % of the dry weight of the stratum corneum (4). Hydrated NMF forms ionic interactions with keratin fibers, which reduces the intermolecular forces between the fibers and therefore increases the elasticity of the stratum corneum. This elasticity serves to make the skin appear healthy and supple, and to help prevent cracking or flaking due to mechanical stress. 1. Wertz et al., Physiology, biochemistry and molecular biology of the skin, 1991, pp. 205 36. 2. Schurer et al., Adv Lipid Res, 1991, 24: 27 54. 3. Rawlings et al., J Invest Dermatol, 1994, 103 (5): 731 741. 4. Verdier-Sévrain et al., Cosmet Dermatol, 2007, 6 (2): 75 82. Moisture System of the Skin Hydrolipid film Lamellar lipids NMF Corneocyte Keratinocyte
Trifunctional moisturizer Composition of Trimoist KMF The moisture balance system of Trimoist KMF is provided by: CM-Glucan a ß-glucan derivative that has immune-enhancing properties. ß-glucan comes from yeast and is a natural polysaccharide made of repetitive D-glucose units that are bound together by ß-(1,3) linkages. It substantially protects the skin from aggression by preserving its barrier function and hydration level. CM-Glucan acts as a protective veil. lamellar lipid barrier, stearoyl lactylate, cetyl alcohol and oleic acid triglyceride form a lamellar lipid structure in water. Its function is further enhanced by phytosterols and vitamin E acetate to repair the natural moisture reservoirs of the skin. glycerin and lactate, which by infusing and binding high levels of water, perform as a potent NMF supplement. The trifunctional activity is complemented by adding the skin elasticity promoting factor carnosine. Carnosine Acts as an Anti-Glycation Agent Glycation is a slow process whereupon reducing sugar molecules react with free amino groups of proteins. This leads to the formation of irreversible cross-linked molecules called advanced glycation end-products (AGE). In the skin, glycation results in the formation of rigid bridges between structural proteins such as collagen and elastin. This makes the dermal proteins stiffer and more brittle. Consequently, the skin looks wilted, wrinkled and dull. Trimoist KMF is completely free of sugar components and on top of this contains the AGE-inhibitor carnosine in order to efficiently prevent the formation of AGEs in the skin. Carnosine is a dipeptide that occurs naturally in our body and is designed by nature to prevent reduced sugars from binding with skin collagen and elastin. Therefore, it protects the dermal fibers from glycation and the premature loss of elasticity and firmness. Mechanism of Trimoist KMF Anti-glycation Effect of Carnosine Hydrosystem of the skin Collagen Free sugar Glycation + Carnosine Solution of Trimoist KMF 1. Protecting film: CM-Glucan 2. NMF: Glycerin Lactate 3. Lamellar lipids: Stearoyl lactylate Cetyl alcohol Oleic acid triglyceride + Phytosterols + Vitamin E acetate Cross-linked collagen bundles (AGE) Collagen fibres are protected and stay elastic