WAKAPAMP Pamper dry and uncomfortable skins.
ARE YOU STILL THINKING THAT STRATUM CORNEUM IS THE UPPER LAYER OF THE SKIN? Although cornified layer is the outer layer of the epidermis, it is no more considered as the outer layer of our skin. On its surface the hydrolipidic film (HLF) acts to lock in moisture and hosts skin microbiota. Its alteration is characteristic of lipid dry skins which are literally stripped due to limited sebaceous gland excretions. Codif laboratories have developed a Supercritical CO 2 extract of organic mekabu: WAKAPAMP. to reconstitute the HLF: emulsion of sebum, lipids and water to improve not only the quantity but also the quality of sebum to increase the water reservoir of the skin to improve hydration, comfort, suppleness and satin aspect of dry skins
Genes involved in the differentiation of sebocytes Mucin 1 +35% AQP3 (aquaglyceroporine 3) +18% Genes involved in the production of sebum SLC2A14 (solute carrier family 2 member 14) +24% Wakapamp increases the expression of genes involved in the differentiation of sebocytes and production of sebum. ACSL1 (acyl-coa synthetase long-chain family member 1) +45% FADS1 (fatty acid desaturase 1) +12% VARIATION OF SQUALENE+WAX ESTER IN SEBUM PRODUCED BY SEBOCYTES CULTIVATED IN DRY SKIN MODEL CONDITIONS *** 200 x2 % variation versus untreated sebocytes 150 100 50 Wakapamp improves the quality of sebum produced by sebocytes with 2X more squalene & wax esters. ***p<0.001 Student test 0 Sebocytes cultivated without Wakapamp Sebocytes cultivated with Wakapamp
WHAT MAKES IT UNIQUE A SPECIFIC ACTION ON SEBOCYTES TO IMPROVE THE PRODUCTION OF SEBUM Sebum discharge occurs in the final stages of sebocytes differentiation. Thus, improving the quantity of sebum available for the emulsion of the HLF goes through the improvement of sebocytes differentiation. Wakapamp increases the expression of a sebocyte differentiation factor (mucin 1); and a channel specific to water and glycerol storage, characteristic of sebocytes maturation (Aquaglyceroporine 3). It also increases the expression of genes directly involved in sebum production. AN IMPROVEMENT IN THE QUALITY OF SEBUM WITH SQUALENE AND WAX ESTERS Along with increased sebum secretion rate, quantitative modification of sebum is important for the emulsion of HLF. The most characteristic products of sebaceous secretion are squalene and wax ester. They are unique to sebum and not found anywhere else in the body. They correspond to major components supplying the skin with protection. The hydrolipidic emulsion obtained from squalene is less fatty and less thick than those obtained with triglycerides (fatty acids and glycerides).
VISUALIZATION OF SEBUM (BLUE FLUORESCENCE) PRODUCED BY SEBOCYTES CULTIVATED IN DRY SKIN MODEL CONDITIONS. ACTIONS TO INCREASE THE LIPID PART OF HLF Sebum production +27%** Epidermal lipids synthesis ELOVL7 (fatty acid elongase) +68% UGCG (UDP-glucose ceramide glucosyltransferase) +75% GBA (glucosylceramidase beta) +125% **p<0.01 Student test Without WAKAPAMP ACTIONS TO INCREASE THE WATER RESERVOIR OF THE SKIN HAS3 (Hyaluronic Acid Synthase 3) +115% SDC4 (syndecan 4, transmembranous proteoglycan heparan-sulphate) +124% SDCBP2 (syndecan binding protein 2) +117% With WAKAPAMP
CLAIMS WAKAPAMP INCREASES THE LIPID PART OF HLF EMULSION Wakapamp increases the quantity of sebum produced by sebocytes by +27%. It also increases the synthesis of epidermal lipids by promoting the expression of genes involved in their synthesis. WAKAPAMP INCREASES THE WATER RESERVOIR OF THE SKIN FOR HLF EMUSLION Wakapamp stimulates the expression of genes involved in proteoglycans synthesis. Hyaluronic acid and heparan sulfate proteoglycans are GAGs components. Stimulating their synthesis participate to increase water reservoir capacities of the skin. Wakapamp stimulates also the expression of genes involved in the integrity of skin barrier. The unique nature of HLF ; emulsion of surface lipids and surface water requires specific ingredients to take care of it. Wakapamp reconstitutes the HLF of the skin by promoting the synthesis of its main components: SURFACE LIPIDS (Epidermal lipids + Balanced sebum) and SURFACE WATER.
WAKAPAMP INCREASES SKIN HYDRATION LEVEL 105 * Skin hydration level in % of normal skin level 100 95 90 85 80 75 Normal Skin (T0) Dry Skin (T0) Dry skin: 4H after application of 0.1% Wakapamp WAKAPAMP IMPROVES THE SATIN ASPECT OF FACIAL SKIN WAKAPAMP DECREASES SKIN DISCOMFORT Variation of the average discomfort score After 2 weeks After 4 weeks 0 SATIN EFFECT -5 Variation of discomfort score in % -10-15 -20-25 -10% -16%* WAKAPAMP -13% D0 D28-30 -35 Placebo -33%*** *p<0.05 Student test / ***p<0.001 Student test
PRODUCTS BENEFITS HYDRATION SUPPLENESS COMFORT IN-VIVO BENEFITS FOR SKIN DRYNESS within 4 hours dry skins recover the hydration level of normal skins. within 2 weeks the luminosity and satin aspect of the skin are significantly increased, without significant increase in skin shininess. This demonstrates a homogenous improvement of sebum distribution and HLF production on the whole face. BENEFITS FOR SKIN COMFORT within 2 weeks the suppleness of the skin is significantly improved. within 2 weeks the discomfort characteristic of very dry skins is significantly decreased. Evaluation using discomfort scale based on discomfort facial expressions NEW of subjects in response to facial motor sequences (Facial Action Coding System).
INDICATIVE FORMULATION NUTRITIVE OIL-IN-CREAM Phase Raw material / Trade name INCI Name % PHENOXYETHANOL (1) Phenoxyethanol 0.80 HUILE DE NOYAUX D ABRICOT RAFFINEE (2) Prunus armeniaca kernel oil 4.00 A CEGESOFT PS 6 (3) Olus oil & Tocopherol 5.00 SILICONE (DIMETHICONE (100CS)) (4) Dimethicone 3.00 CREMEOL SBE / CEGESOFT SBE (3) Butyrospermum parkii butter extract 2.00 A WAKAPAMP (5) Caprylic/capric triglyceride & Undaria pinnatifida extract 0.10 B DEMINERALIZED WATER Water 76.03 B ELESTAB CPN (3) Chlorphenesin 0.27 C CARBOPOL ULTREZ 10 (6) Carbomer 0.30 D PROPYLENE GLYCOL 1.2 USP (7) Propylene glycol 4.00 KELTROL CGSFT (8) Xanthan gum 0.20 E SIMULGEL NS (9) Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer & Aqua & Squalane & Polysorbate 60 2.00 F SEPIPLUS 400 (9) Polyacrylate-13 & Polyisobutene & Polysorbate 20 & Sorbitan isostearate & Aqua 1.00 G SOLUTION DE SOUDE SOUDE 6.25N (10) Aqua & Sodium hydroxide 0.40 FRAGRANCE Fragrance 0.10 H SOLUTION ROUGE CI:1720 1 POURCENT (11) Aqua & CI 17200 0.10 SOLUTION JAUNE 113.1 1 POURCENT (11) Aqua & CI 19140 0.50 TIMIRON SPLENDID GOLD (12) CI 77891 & Mica & Silica 0.20 (1) LEVHOSS ; (2) OLISUD ; (3) A.M.I ; (4) QUIMDIS SA ; (5) CODIF Technologie Naturelle ; (6) GATTEFOSSE France SA ; (7) QUARON ; (8) AZELIS ; (9) SEPPIC ; (10) BRENNTAG MAINE BRETAGNE ; (11) UNIVAR ; (12) MERCK CHIMIE SAS PROCEDURE: Heat BB at 75 C in an emulsifier 600 rpm for 10 minutes. Add C let hydrate for 10 minutes without shaking and stir in 1500rpm emulsifier for 10 minutes. Add D under an emulsifier 1500rpm for 5 minutes. Add E under 2500rpm emulsifier for 10 minutes. Heat phase A to 75 C and add A before emulsion. Emulsify AA in BB CDE under 2500 rpm emulsifier for 5 minutes. Add F under 2500rpm emulsifier for 10 minutes. Add G under 2500rpm emulsifier for 10 minutes. Cool to 35 C with gentle agitation. Add the materials of H one to one with gentle stirring and keep stirring for 20 minutes.
HOW TO USE IT Oil soluble ingredient to use at 0.1% in: A skin repairing balm for dry and sensitive skins with PYCOSACCHARIDE AI A nutritive anti-ageing oil with LAKESIS A skin balancing night cream with ACTIBIOME INCI WAKAPAMP Caprylic/capric triglyceride (and) Undaria pinnatifida extract Certified as 2% organic by Ecocert Greenlife according to the COSMOS Standard available at http://cosmos.ecocert.com 100% of the total ingredients are from natural origin. 2 % of the total ingredients are from organic farming.
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