Options. Laser resurfacing Chemical peels Dermabrasion Topical therapy

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Facial Resurfacing

Options Laser resurfacing Chemical peels Dermabrasion Topical therapy

Photoaging Most chronic changes occur from UVB light (290 to 320nm) associated with sunburn Ultraviolet AII (320-240nm) associated with photaging Ultraviolet AI (340-400nm) associated photoaging

Photoaging Results in fine wrinkles Texture abnormalities Pigment dyschromias Actinic keratosis

Epidermal Layers Stratum Corneum Stratum Lucidum Stratum Granulosum Stratum Spinosum Stratum Basale Dermal layers Pappilary: blood supply, Meissner s corpuscles Reticular: contains Pascinian corpuscles, seat glands, smooth muscle, hair follicles, lymph vessels

Photoaging Extrinsic vs intrinsic aging Intrinsic (chronologic aging) Expression lines, subcutaneous tissue atrophy, effects of gravity Thinning of dermis, flattening of dermal-epidermal junction, loss of elasticity. Slower wound healing

Extrinsic Photoaging: chronic UV exposure Results in thickening of stratum corneum, melanocytic clumping, dermal elastosis and basement membrane thickening Chemical Wind Seen as pigmentary changes, wrinkling, actinic keratosis, increased skin laxity, loss of rete pegs.

Microdermabrasion Developed in 1985 Mechanical procedure using a stream of fine abrasives (aluminum oxide crystals) Skin exfoliation to a depth of 15 25um with two passes Often uses multiple sessions Improves fine wrinkles, decrease size of dilated pores, decreased sebum content

Microdermabrasion Histology Fibroblast stimulation New dermal collagen deposition Epidermal thickening Normalization of stratum corneum Deposition of elastin

Topical therapy Retinoids Kinerase Alpha Hydroxy Acids Hydroxyquinone Kojic acid Azelaic acid

Retinoids Retin-A Tazorac Furfuryladenine (Kinerase) Vitamin C

Topical therapy Topical retinoids, vitamin A based agents Tretinoin produces effects binding retinoic acid receptors on chromosone 17 Produces increased collagen synthesis, new blood vessel formation, fibroblast activity, mitotic activity, cellular turnover in epidermis. Normalization of epidermal atypia, increased thickness of granular layer and decrease number of melanocytes Optimal effects in 10-12 months

Retinoids Broken down by sunlight Apply at night Sensitize to sun exposure Can cause transient irritation

Tazorac New acetylenic retinoid Selective binding to RAR-gamma which make up 90% of skin retinoid receptors Also binds to Beta receptors

Alpha Hydroxy Acids Glycolic acid ( smallest) Lactic acid Citric, malic, tartaric Usually up to 30% concentration Salicylic acid (beta hydroxy acid) Used for acne Polyhydroxy for sensitive skin Less skin sensitivity to sun exposure Can be combined with tretinoins

Vitamin C Antioxidant Ascorbate is a catalyst for hydroxylation of procollagen Neutralizes free radicals L ascorbic acid isomer needed for cutaneous absorption. Can reduce thinning of epidermis Improve wrinkles, roughness and colour Some bleaching ability

Bleaching agents Hydroxyquinone, kojic and azelaic acid Inhibit tyrosinase Results in a reduction in melanin

Chemical Peels Superficial Epidermal Medium Superficial dermal to pappilary dermis Deep Mid dermal injury to reticular dermis

Indications Actinic damage Remove pigment dyschromias Smooth out fine wrinkles Flatten mild scarring Acne

Assessment Document Fitzpatrick skin type I-III are OK for all depths IV-VI more of a problem Texture Glogau aging changes Type I, no wrinkles, II wrinkles in motion, III wrinkles at rest, IV only wrinkles Complexion Rhytids Skin excess

Glogau

Preparation Nothing for superficial peels Antivirals for deeper peels as they can cause herpetic outbreaks Cleansing with an exfoliant Acetone can be used and increases depth of penetration of peel Mild sedative, NSAID for deeper peels

Superficial Peel Healing time 1-4 days For mild photoaging Glycolic acid (10-50%) Tricarboxylic acid (10-20%) Jessner s solution (salicylic acid 14g, lactic acid 14mL, ethanol 10 ml)

Medium depth peel Injury to a depth of 0.6mm Coleman technique: 35% tricarboxylic acid with 70% glycolic acid Moheit technique: 35% tricarboxylic acid with Jessner s solution

Deep Peel Stimulate production of new collagen Baker-Gordon formula (3mL SUP liquid phenol, 2mL tap water, 8 drops liquid soap, 3 drops cotton oil) Consider sedation

Deep Peel complications Altered pigment Adverse texture changes Scarring Milia, infection, skin atrophy Cardiotoxicity ( Phenol) Renal and hepatic elimination For Glolgau III and IV photoaging

Laser Resurfacing Work by Selective thermolysis Three criteria to achieve this Laser s wavelength must be preferentially absorbed by the target tissue (chromphore) It must deliver sufficient level of energy per unit area (ie fluence) to reach a temperature where ablation occurs Exposure duration of the laser must be less than or equal to tissues thermal relaxation time. (time for tissue to cool by 50%). Ie before heat diffusion can begin

Definitions Fluence: energy density (joules/cm2) Thermal relaxation time Irradiance: joules/s/cm2 Power = Watts = Joules/second

Lasers Hybrid Lasers most promising CO2 Lasers Emits energy at 10,600 nm Er Yag Emits energy at 2,940 nm Much more efficiently absorbed by water than CO2 More precise ablation with minimal thermal damage

Regional Esthetic units Forehead Eyes Nose Cheeks Mouth Upper lip Lower lip chin

Skin Thickness Very thin areas Eyelid Ear Thin areas Neck Temple Medium areas Cheek, Lips, Nasal Dorsum Thick areas Chin, Nasal Tip Forehead

Facial Dynamic Lines (RSTL) Perpendicular to muscle pull Major muscles Frontalis Orbiculars oculi Corrugator supercilii Orbicularis oris

Facial Dynamic Lines (RSTL)

Chromophore CO2 and Er:Yag are both preferentially absorbed by water Water makes up 70% of skin by volume

IPL Intermittent Pulsed Light Skin relaxation time is 695 microseconds Pulse duration is 600 microseconds to 1 millisecond

Indications Epidermal problems Actinic keratosis Dermal pathology Nevi, lumpy scars (keloid vs hypertrophic) Wrinkling Hyperpigmentation Scarring

Contraindications Unrealistic expectations Active infection Bacterial, herpetic Use of Accutane Previous surgery Flaps Dark skin UV exposure Cutaneous disease Scleroderma, vitiligo General medical conditions

Levulan Aminolevulinic acid (ALA) Also called Kerastick (20%) Used in combination with blue photodynamic therapy. Enriched photosensitizer Used for actinic keratosis, sun damaged areas

Complications Persistent erythema Post inflammatory Hyperpigmentation Hypopigmentation Scarring Wound infection Herpetic (10%) Candida (1%) Bacterial (5% without prophylaxis) Milia (11%) Ectropion Pain Acneiform eruptions Pruritis Contact dermatitis Prolonged wound healing

Herpetic Most common skin infections 10% of patients regardless of history 33% if history of previous outbreak Occurs in first week Atrophic scarring may result if not treated Treat with Famvir

Bacterial Infections 5 % of cases without prophylaxis 2-10 days post op Pain and or pruritis Excessive patchy erythema, crusts, and exudate Polymicrobial Staph aureus, Pseudomonas, Staph epidermidis

Fungal Candida 1% Ketoconazole prophylaxis Diflucan treatment Nystatin topical creams May extend beyond the boundary of laser treatment

Milia Most resolve spontaneously Epidermal cysts from occlusion of eccrine duct openings Remove with 30 guage needle if necessary

Acneiform eruptions 10% During healing phase More often in patients with black skin or history of acne Must not have had Acutane (Isotretinoin) 1-2 years before laser resurfacing Treat with oral antibiotics, benzamycin gel, prophlaxis

Summary Numerous options for facial rejuvenation Chemical peels rarely used Lasers offer more precise control of depth and duration of injury Topical therapy useful adjunct for laser therapy and prior to more aggressive treatment modalities but limited effects