Pilates for Alpinism. Training for High Elevation Expedition Athletes. Veronica Coots. February 14, Mount Shasta, California
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1 Pilates for Alpinism Training for High Elevation Expedition Athletes. Veronica Coots February 14, Mount Shasta, California 1
2 Alpinism shares the fitness requirements of both skiing and climbing. Moving quickly over complicated terrain requires a high level of technical ability and extreme endurance. Physiologically, Alpinist skiers may be described as kyphotic. Kyphosis is defined as a rounded upper back and an anteriorly tilted pelvis. Structurally the body responds to the kyphosis with over development of quadriceps muscles, tight hamstrings, pulled lumbar spine, and weakened abdominal muscles. Elite skiers who began systematic and specialized training during early pubescence ( between years of age) have a sixty six percent higher chance of developing thoracic kyphosis/ Scheuermanns disease. Scheuermanns disease is categorized as thoracic kyphosis with a minimum of three wedged shaped vertebrae. The condition causes the vertebrae to grow unevenly with respect to the sagittal plane, resulting in signature wedged- shaped vertebrae. The kyphosis for clients who fit this profile may be structural and will no longer be due to functionality. Skins are placed on the surface of the ski to create enough surface traction to climb upwards.alpinists skin or climb with skis utilizing Rondel bindings. A Rondel binding allows the ankle to move laterally while climbing. The 2
3 weight of the pack carried by the Alpinist is directly distributed on the Upper Trapezius. The pin- pointed weight distribution results in limited shoulder mobility and tight Pectoral muscles. The pulled Pectoral muscles conversely cause the shoulders and Latissimus Dorsi to round forward into constant forward flexion. Skiing stance requires the athlete to stack their bones over their center of gravity while maintaining flexed knees and an anteriorly tilted pelvis. The hips move laterally to navigate during descent. Cumulatively, a functional kyphotic stance is created. Strengthening the core will allow the athlete to improve balance and agility. Core strength and increased hip flexibility will create a more powerful and a finer tuned edging radius. A more efficient movement pattern will result from improved posture, lengthened intercostal breaths, and a stable core to originate correct muscle recruitment. Improved efficiency will lessen fatigue during lengthy and physically arduous expeditions. 3
4 Table of Contents Abstract 2-3 Anatomical Description of an Alpinist 5-7 Introduction and Case Study 7-9 Sample Training Program Conclusion Bibliography 14 4
5 Alpinist physiology may be described as overly developed Quadricep muscles and relationally weak Hamstrings. Weak and tight adductors (Hip Flexors, Iliotibial Band) place stress on connective knee tissue resulting in instability. The weight of heavy packs/skis creates tight Upper Trapezius and Pectoral muscles. Conversely, the latissimus dorsi is weakened and the body is in constantly forward flexion, with an anteriorly tilted pelvis. groups. An effective Pilate s routine for an Alpinist focuses on the following muscle Stretch Quadriceps Hamstrings Iliotibial Band Gastrocnemius/Soleus Quadratus Lumborum Hip Abductors Hip Flexors Hip Extensors Pectorals Upper Trapezius Latissimus Dorsi Strengthen Medial Quadriceps Hamstrings Tibialis Anterior Abdominals Hip Abductors Hip Extensors Rhomboids Mid- Trapezius Lower Trapezius 5
6 Figure A Figure A. Illustrates a Kyphotic back. The areas in red denote tight/strained areas. Purple signifies areas that are weak and require strengthening. Figure B. Figure B. Is an illustration of the hip flexor group, notoriously tight in Alpinist athletes. The 6
7 group is pulled due to functional forward flexion created by the Quadriceps in climbing and skiing. The adductors and Medial Quadriceps are weak due to an overuse of the Quadriceps and Iliotibial Band. Figure C. Alpinist Upper Trapeziuses are compromised by excessive weight due to heavy pack loads. Tight Trapezius muscles lead to underdeveloped Latissimus Dorsi muscles and tight Pectoral muscles. Creating constant forward flexion, coupled with overdeveloped Quadriceps muscles the athlete suffers from constant lumbar pain. The most dedicated and fit athletes push themselves to the brink of mental and physical capacity in an element that can only be described as indifferent to human survival. Adaptability, flexibity, strength, and a deep metaphysical connection are key to conquer the adventure and for survival. Even on the best of days, Mother Nature may have her own plans. The body and mind must be ready to play her game 7
8 The case study is a thirty three year old professional Alpinist, Forrest Coots. Forrest began recreationally skiing as a toddler, moving to competitive racing before the age of ten. As a teenager he continued elite racing while participating in big mountain jump competitions. Forrest moved from the racing circuit in his early twenties to extreme expedition back country skiing. Currently, during the summer he works as a climbing ranger on Mount Shasta, an inactive volcano in Northern California, summiting the 14,180 feet minimum twice a week. During the fall/winter months he works as a professional Alpinist, completing various ski expeditions around the world. Forrest s physiology is Kyphotic sway back from years of training and skiing. The overdeveloped Quadriceps and tight upper back extensors have resulted in constant forward flexion and back pain. Forrest does suffer from asymptomatic Pevs Cavus, or hereditarily extremely high arched feet. This causes him to place most of his weight on the Metatarsal head and back of his feet. Functionally weak calf muscle and structural Pevs Cavus has caused an exaggerated supination in both feet. The conditioning program will reflect the Pevs Cavus to address pain stiffness in the medial arch, and ankle instability. 8
9 Figure D. demonstrates the skeletal structure of Pevs Cavus, unique to the case study, resulting in ankle instability and medial arch pain. Chronic supination causes weak bilateral Soleus and tight exterior foot muscles. Extra emphasis is required to encourage even weight distribution on the feet. Forrest undergoes an arduous training schedule year round to stay physically competent for long expeditions. In a recent expedition, Forrest attempted the first ski descent of Artesonraju, in Peru. At an elevation of 19,767 feet including eleven hour climb from the base camp, Forrest became painfully aware of the lack of connection he had with his breath pattern, and correct muscle recruitment. Forrest holds the strength and skill to muscle through long climbs, and difficult ski terrain. However, training his slow twitch muscles, increasing his core strength and breathing pattern he would be able to summit with less fatigue, and lessened chance of injury. 9
10 Below is a sample training program that would be beneficial to an Alpinist. Basi Block Session 1-10 Session Session 21 + System Warm Up Foot Work Abdominal Fundamental Utilizing a prop between the knees to discourage gripping in the hip flexors/neutral pelvis. Head is elevated to encourage external rotation of shoulders. Reformer. Prop placed between knees. Prop placed between ankles to encourage even weight placement/decreas e Supination. Wunda Chair: Standing Pike Standing Pike Reverse Fundamental Reformer, Wunda Chair if Pelvis is able to remain neutral. Wunda Chair: Cat Stretch Kneeling Intermediate Roll up with Roll up Bar due to tight hip flexors. Cadillac: To encourage stretch/control of hip adductors. Hip external rotator control. Cadillac: Breathing with Push Through Bar. To improve coordination and long controlled intercostal breath pattern. Bottom Lift with Roll Up Bar Hip Work Reformer: Range Cadillac: Basic Leg Cadillac: Single Leg 10
11 Spinal Articulation Stretches Full Body Integration F/I of motion kept small to encourage hip adductor recruitment. N/A Reformer: Supine Stretch (Pilates for the Mature Client ) Hamstring/Gluteal Stretch N/A Springs. Emphasizing long intercostal breath patterns during Walking. Cadillac: Tower Prep. Allows for deep hamstring stretch/control while being in a more open position. Cadillac: Shoulder Stretch Ladder Barrel Cadillac: Thigh Stretch with Roll up Bar. Chosen due to strength of client/amount of body awareness/extreme ly tight quadriceps. Supine Reformer: Short Spine Reformer: Kneeling Lunge Side Split: Adductor strength/stretch, while emphasing even weight distribution. Reformer: Up Stretch 2 Long Stretch Arm Work Ped- A- Pul: Arms Standing Series: To encourage scapulae stabilization/furthe r external rotation of forward flexed shoulders. Cadillac: Shoulder Adduction Sitting Forward Shoulder Adduction Sitting Side. Wunda Chair: Shrugs/Triceps Press Sit/Triceps Prone. Chosen due to client strength/need for scapular stabilization/pector al stretch. 11
12 Full Body Integration A/M Leg Work N/A N/A Balance Control Prep: Chosen due to strength of client and to strengthen shoulder extensors. Wunda Chair: Leg Press Standing. To encourage even weight placement on Peeves Cavus afflicted feet. Wunda Chair: Hip Opener Frog Front Reformer: Long Box Series, Hamstring Curl Lateral Flexion/Rotatio n Back Extension Hamstring Curl: Hamstring Stretch/pelvic stability/knee extensor strength. Wunda Chair: Side Stretch Wunda Chair: Swan Basic Wunda Chair: Side Kneeling Stretch Wunda Chair: Swan on Floor Reformer: Short Box Series Reformer: Long Box Series After incorporating Pilates into his training program Forrest noticed an increase in pelvic and hip flexibility. Practiced Intercostal breathing created an increase in awareness of breath, improving his oxygen intake at high elevations. Deepening the mind body connection allowed for a heightened sense of the surroundings as well. Coordinated breath and strength allowed him to use his muscles more efficiently, lessening fatigue. The longevity of a career Alpinist is impossible to predict. The only predictably is that Mother Nature is always 12
13 unpredictable. The best course of action is to be as prepared mentally and physically as possible. Pilates incorporates both of these necessities to improve the journey and quality of life along the way. 13
14 Bibliography Book Isacowitz, Rael. Cadillac Movement Analysis Workbook. Costa Mesa, California: Body Arts and Science International, Isacowitz, Rael. Mat Movement Analysis Workbook. Costa Mesa, California:Body Arts and Science International, Isacowitz, Rael. Reformer Movement Analysis Workbook. Costa Mesa, California: Body Arts and Science International, Isacowitz, Rael. Study Guide: Comprehensive Course. Costa Mesa, California: Body Arts and Science International, Isacowitz, Rael. Wunda Movement Anaylsis Workbook. Costa Mesa, California: Body Arts and Science International, 2000p Johnston, Scott. House, Steve. Training for the New Alpinism. A Manual for the Climber as Athlete. Ventura, California: Patagonia Books, Website Pevs Cavus- Not just a clinical sign. Diagnosis, Aetiology and Management ACNR Advances in Clinical Neuroscience and Rehabilitation. 31 Jan E Book Rusko, Heikki. Hand Book of Sports Medicine and Science, Cross Country Skiing. John Wiley and Sons. 15 April
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