Quick Guide to the Fixed Oils
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- Richard Kelly
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1 Saturated and unsaturated, all oils contain both but differ in percentages. Quick Guide to the Fixed Oils Take the guess workout of choosing the right carrier for your project. A visual guide to the four main groups.
2 Monounsaturated oils Oleic acid, monounsaturated fatty acid found in high percentages in a number of oils including camellia, olive, macadamia, hazelnut, apricot, almond, avocado, moringa and marula oils. These oils maintain the suppleness, elasticity and softness of the skin by helping to maintain moisture in the cells; plus high skin compatibility as oleic acid makes up 30% of the skin s own oils. As monounsaturated, these oils are fairly stable and can be used for infusing botanicals, general emollience for the skin and for skin nourishment. 1% 1% 9% 9% 79% Camellia seed oil Camellia seed oil is extremely high in oleic fatty acid, making it emollient and protective. Camellia is a dry oil, able to protect the skin without an oily feel or layer, while providing vitamins, and minerals to nourish the skin. Excellent for problem skin with its high content of beneficial plant compounds and squalene, the skin is repaired and rejuvenated. As a monounsaturated oil camellia is fairly stable if protected from excessive heat and light.
3 Polyunsaturated oils absorb well Oils high in Linoleic acid are grape seed, passion fruit seed, cucumber seed oil, watermelon seed oil, sunflower seed oil, and raspberry seed oil. Absorbing into the skin well, these oils nourish cells and make beneficial facial serums. Able to help troubled skin, these oils are light and can provide the skin what it lacks. They re not suitable for infusing as they are prone to going rancid quickly. LNA LA Oleic Palmitic Stearic Unsap 17% 4% 3% 1% 6% 69% Grape seed Oil Absorbing into the skin readily, Grape seed oil is highly unsaturated with nearly 70% polyunsaturated linoleic acid. Often used for the Oil Cleansing Method and as a body oil, grape seed oil is rich in vitamins and minerals. important skin nourishing linoleic fatty acid makes this oil unsuitable for infusing botanicals due to its propensity to go rancid easily.
4 Linoleic, Alpha-linolenic acid oils The fatty acid Alpha-linolenic acid is nearly always accompanied by linoleic acid; they are the two essential fatty acids, EFA s. Oils high in these fatty acids are chia seed, camleina, rose hips seed, flax, blueberry, cranberry, kiwi seed, kukui nut, sacha inchi, fenugreek and raspberry. Nutritionally superior, these are oils that help tame inflammation while nourishing skin and body. 12% 20% 5% 6% 1% 56% Kiwi Seed oil As a facial serum oil, kiwi seed blends beautifully while it calms inflammation and nourishes the skin. Readily absorbed, repairing of damage, and nutritious kiwi is an excellent skin oil As shown Kiwi seed oil is highly poly - unsaturated with over half Alphalinolenic acid and 20% linoleic acid, the essential fatty acids.
5 Highly Saturated Oils The saturated oils are solid at room temperature; growing in the tropical regions they include shea butter, mango butter, cocoa butter, coconut oil, sal butter, kokum butter, and a number of other exotic solid oils. Oils high in saturated fatty acids are highly emollient, occlusive and protective, creating a barrier against weather and pollution. Natural plant protective compounds help protect skin cells from sun damage. Saturated oils can be used for infusing though need melting, and are the most stable of all the oils. 33% 2% 1% 3% 26% 34% Cocoa Butter Cocoa butter is the most saturated of the butters with high percentages of saturated stearic and palmitic fatty acids. A traditional ingredient in products for stretch marks and infant care, cocoa butter protects the skin against irritation and environmental invasion. Used in products, it adds emollience but needs to be combined with other butters or liquid oils. Cocoa butter can be purchased deodorized or can be highly chocolate scented.
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