Polyplant Emollient is a complex of vegetable extracts containing the following plants, Hamamelis, Mallow, Chamomile and Lime Tree.

Transcription

1 Polyplant Emollient Polyplant Emollient is a complex of vegetable extracts containing the following plants, Hamamelis, Mallow, Chamomile and Lime Tree. Hamamelis BOTANY Hamamelis virginiana L., commonly known as witch hazel, is a small tree or shrub that belongs to the Hamamelidaceae family. It grows between 1.5 and 3.5 m in height. The bark is brown and smooth. The leaves are deciduous, elliptic to ovate, margins wavy, asymmetrical at the base, between 7.5 and 12.5 cm long. The flowers are yellow outside and yellowish brown inside, with four characteristic thread-like, about 2 cm long petals. Blooming occurs by the end of Autumn, when the leaves fall. The fruit is a capsule. Hamamelis is native to North America, where it often grows in the damp forests of the South-eastern areas (from Brunswick and Quebec until Minnesota, south of Florida, Georgia, Louisiana and Texas). It is cultivated in the United States and Canada. In Europe, cultivation is at the small scale, especially as an ornamental bush for gardens. The leaves must be harvested in Summer. The leaves are almost odourless and have an astringent, mildly bitter, aromatic taste. The part used of hamamelis is its leaves. CHEMISTRY Tannins The proportion of tannins is between 3 and 10% of total composition. They are a combination of gallic tannins, condensed catechols, procyanidols and hydrolysable tannins (hamamelitannins). Hydrolysable tannins are oligo- or poly-esters of a sugar (or a related polyol) and a variable number of phenol acid molecules. The sugar is, generally, glucose. The phenol acid is either gallic acid (these are called gallic tannins) or hexahydroxydiphenic (HHDP) acid and its oxidation derivatives (these are called ellagic tannins). V 01-07/

2 Condensed tannins or proanthocyanidols are flavan polymers. They are made up of flavan-3-ols units attached one to each other by carbon-carbon bonds, generally 4 8 or 4 6, which result from the attachment between the electrophilic C-4 of a flavanyl (that comes from a flavan-4-ol or a flavan-3,4-diol) and a nucleophilic position (usually C-8 and less frequently C-6) of another unit, generally flavan-3-ol (Bruneton J., 2001). Essential oil Essential oil is %. It is rich in alcohols (40%), esters (15%), carbonyl compounds (25%) and safrol (< 0.2%). Other active principles Leucoanthocyanidins, flavonoids (myricetin, quercetin, kaempherol and astragalin), phenolic acids (quinic acid, caffeic acid and gallic acid), choline ( %), oxalic acid and unidentified bitter substances. TRADITIONAL USES In the popular medicine, hamamelis leaves are used internally, to relief diarrhoea, metrorrhagia, haemorrhoids, proctorrhagia, abundant vaginal discharge and digestive haemorrhage. Bark decoction is also recommended for these proposes, as well as for inflammation of the gums and mouth mucosa (as mouthwash or gargles). Mallow BOTANY Malva sylvestris L., common name mallow, is an annual or biannual plant, semi-woody at the base, which belongs to the Malvaceae family. The stems erect, hairy and branched grow up to one meter tall. The leaves are alternate and hairy, long-petioled, with toothed margins and palmate veins. The flowers are large (2.5 to 4cm diameter) blue or purple, with five slender petals, arranged in bunches at the axils of leaves. Flowering occurs in spring and summer. The fruit is a yellowish achenecetum. Mallow occurs spontaneously in almost the whole of Europe, North of Asia and Africa. This plant grows on roadsides, embankments, slopes, forest clearings, walls and modified soils, due to the penetration ability of its thin roots. It requires temperate-warm climates or mountain conditions. In America (from Mexico to Argentina and Chile), mallow is adventitious. The main producers are central European countries. The part used of mallow is its flowers. V 01-07/

3 CHEMISTRY Mucilages 10-16%. Mallow contains uronic mucilages. Upon hydrolysis, they generate D-galacturonic acid, D- glucose, D-galactose, L-rhamnose and L-arabinose. Phenolic compounds Anthocyanosides 7%. Malvin and its genin malvidin. Flavonoids Derivatives of gossypetine and hypoletin. Phenolic acids p-coumaric acid, chlorogenic acid and caffeic acid Tannins TRADITIONAL USES Mallow flowers are usually prepared as an infusion alone or in combination with eucalyptus, borage or balm mint to treat bronchial catarrh, cough and as a diuretic. In some regions, teaspoonfuls of mallow water extract are usually added to the feeding bottles of nursing babies to relief cough. Chamomile BOTANY Matricaria chamomilla L. (= M. recutita Rauch.; M. courrantiana DC.; Chamomilla recutita (L.) Rauschert). It is an annual herb that belongs to the Asteraceae family. It grows approximately cm tall. The stems are straight, cylindrical, furrowed, whitish-green in colour. The leaves are twice or three-times pinnate, sessile, arranged along the stem in an alternate fashion. The flowers aggregate in capitula, which are mm in diameter. The capitula appear on axillary, 3-10 cm long peduncles. The receptacle is cone-shaped, sharp-ended, hollow, without scales. The outermost flowers are ligulate and female; the innermost flowers are tubular and hermaphrodite. There is no calyx or a very reduced one. The outer flowers corolla are single white ligules, 6-9 mm long and 2-3 mm wide. The tubular flowers corolla are smaller, five-lobed and yellow. The androecium is made up of 5 stamens with the anthers welded in a tubular structure. The gynoecium is inferior, with one locule and only one seminal primordium. The fruits are brown small achenes, which are normally dispersed by the wind. Flowering occurs from May to October. V 01-07/

4 Chamomile is native to Europe (the Balkans area), north of Africa and west of Asia. It is cultivated in the whole of America. This plant typically grows in roadsides and uncultivated fields, usually as a weed. Chamomile cannot endure excessively hot whether, prolonged dryness, or freezing temperatures during the vegetative period. It is produced at industrial scale in several countries such as Argentina, Germany, Hungary and Yugoslavia. The part used of chamomile is its flowers. CHEMISTRY Flavonoids Chamomile contains 0.5-3% flavonoids. Coumarins The coumarins (0.1%) present in chamomile derive from the cinnamic acid. It is worthy to emphasize the presence in chamomile of dioxycoumarin, umbelliferone (7-hydroxy coumarin) and its methyl ester herniarin. The two later compounds are lactones of the O-hydroxycinnamic acid with hydroxyl substituents in position 7. Essential oil The essential oil content of chamomile varies between 0.2 and 1.8%. The main active compounds in this essence are: Azulene (26-46%) Sesquiterpenes This essence contains about 50% sesquiterpenes including (-)-α-bisabolol, the α-bisabolol oxides A and B, bisabolone oxide, cis- and trans-en-yn-dicycloether (up to 25%) and spathulenol. Sesquiterpene lactones Matricin, matricarin and de-acethylmatricarin Terpene hydrocarbons Farnesene, cadinene, cis-spiroether and trans- spiroether. Other active principles Mucilaginous polysaccharides (10%), valerianic acid, tannins, ascorbic acid, fatty acids, salicylic acid, stigmasterol-derived steroids, phenolic acids, angelic acid, bitter principle (anthemic acid), xyloglucurans, mineral salts (8-10%), triacontane and phytosterin (resin). TRADITIONAL USES Chamomile infusion has been, and still is, used in the popular medicine as a diuretic, antispasmodic, digestive (eupeptic and antiflatulent), anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, ocular decongestant and emenagogue. Besides the medicinal uses, chamomile is also used to flavour vermouth. V 01-07/

5 Lime tree BOTANY Tilia platyphyllos Scop. (=Tilia grandifolia Ehrh.) is commonly known as Large Leaved Lime or Large Leaved Linden. It is a deciduous tree that belongs to the Tiliaceae family. This tree grows between 15 and 40 meters tall. The trunk is straight and robust; the leaves are cordate at the base and sharply acuminate to the apex, margins serrate, with petioles and palmate veins on the underside. Flowers are pentamerous, aromatic, yellow, clustered in erect or drooping cymes composed of 2 to 10 flowers; the sepals easily detach from the flower, the petals are narrow, spatulate, with fine veins; the stamens are generally clustered in groups of 5. The inflorescence axis bears a yellowish-green, membranous, leaf-like bract, welded approximately to the middle of the mid-vein. Flowers appear during the summer. The fruit is a globose achene with the appearance of an indehiscent capsule, with five ribs. Most of the Tilia species are native to boreal-temperate regions. The part used of lime tree is its flowers. CHEMISTRY Flavonoids Lime Tree inflorescences contain 1% flavonoids, particularly heterosides with quercetin (rutoside, hyperoside, quercitroside and isoquercitroside) and with kaempferol (tiliroside, astragalin) Mucilages Mucilage can be found in about 3-10% proportions. The main polysaccharides are those of the arabinogalactan type. Condensed tannins Tannins can be found in a 2% proportion. Other active principles V 01-07/

6 Phenylcarboxylic acids (derivatives of the cinnamic and benzoic acids: caffeic, chlorogenic and p- coumarinic acids), traces of essential oil (0.02%), gum, manganese salt, amino acids (alanine, cysteine, cystine, isoleucine, leucine, phenylalanine and serine), saponin, tocopherol and proanthocyanidin. TRADITIONAL USES Lime Tree inflorescences have traditionally been used to prepare infusions with mild sedative properties on the central nervous system. Lime Tree has also been attributed choleretic, antispasmodic and vasodilator properties, which have been used to treat migraine and hepatobiliar conditions. COSMETIC PROPERTIES Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) regulatory activity This activity of Polyplant Emollient is due to its mucilage content. Mucilages are hygroscopical substances, namely they absorb and retain water. Because of their large size, these substances remain on the stratum corneum surface, where they have moisturizing and filmogenic effects that remarkably improve the skin biomechanical properties. Moisturizing agents contribute to the stratum corneum flexibility, facilitate scaling by acting on the corneodesmosomes, and may also influence the lipids responsible for the barrier function of the stratum corneum. Active compounds with filmogenic effects include a variety of cosmetic actives, all of them with a common characteristic: they are macromolecules that remain on the stratum corneum surface, retain water and improve the barrier properties. Therefore, Polyplant Emollient is highly recommendable to formulate cosmetic products with moisturizing and soothing actions. Finally, we should mention that the publication Plants preparations used as ingredients of cosmetic products. Vol I.( Council of Europe, 1994) has monographs of the plant species included in Polyplant Emollient where it is mentioned the following: Hamamelis virginiana L. There are 2 monographs: one for the hydroalcoholic dry extract and the glycolic extract and another for the distilled water. The intended cosmetic effects and recommended maximum concentrations in cosmetics products are the following: Hydroalcoholic dry extract, glycolic extract: astringent, soothing, anticouperose 1-2% dry extract 2-5% glycolic extract in tonics for mucosae and skin, soothing products, astringent preparations for minor capillary problems ( couperose ) other possible effects: haemostatic, venous vasoconstrictor, vasoprotector Distsilled water: astringent, soothing, antiirritant, anticouperose up to 50% in facial tonics, after shaves, products for sensitive and inflamed mucosae and skins other possible effects: haemostatic, veinous vasoconstrictor V 01-07/

7 Malva sylvestris L. Monograph on the hydroalcoholic mild extract and the glycolic extract of M.sylvestris flowers and leaves, which mentions the following cosmetic effects: calming, soothing, demulcent up to 10% of the glycolic extract up to 2% of the mild extract in sensitive and delicate skin products, bath and shower products, mouth wash other possible effects: anti-irritation, emollient and vessel-protection Matricaria chamomilla Monograph on the hydroalcoholic dry extract, glycolic extract and oil tincture of M.chamomilla where the following cosmetic effects are attributed to them: soothing, anti-iching, refreshing, purifying, hair bleaching up to 10% glycolic extract and oil tincture up to 5 % dry extract in baths, showers, lotions and creams for delicate skins and mucosae, hair bleaching products. other possible effects: granulation promoting agent, anti-irritant, antiseptic Tilia spp. Monograph on the hydroalcoholic dry extract, glycolic extract an d oil tincture of the flowers of Tilia spp. The intended cosmetic effects are the following: smoothing, soothing, relaxant, refreshing. 1% dry extract up to 10% glycolic extract and oil tincture in products for babies and for delicate skins, bath and showers, personal hygiene products, delicate shampoos other possible effects are: mild-sedative, anti-inflammatory, emollient, vaso-protector COSMETIC APPLICATIONS Action Active Cosmetic Application TWEL regulation Mucilages -Moisturizing -Emollient -Soothing RECOMMENDED DOSE The recommended dose is between 0.5% and 5.0%. V 01-07/

8 BIBLIOGRAPHY Hamamelis Alonso, Jorge. Tratado de Fitofármacos y Nutracéuticos. Barcelona: Corpus, 2004, p: (633.8 ALO). Bruneton J. Farmacognosia. Zaragoza: Ed. Acribia, 2001; p: (651*1 BRU). Council of Europe. Plants preparations used as ingredients of cosmetic products. Strasbourg Cedex: Council of Europe Publishing, 1994; p: (61*8 PAT). Deters A. et al. High molecular compounds (polysaccharides and proanthocyanidins) from Hamamelis virginiana bark: influence on human skin kerationcyte proliferation and differentiation and influence on irritated skin. Phytochemistry, 2001; p: Gloor M. et al. Antiseptic effect of a topical formulation that contains Hamamelis distillate and urea. Forsch Komplementarmed Klass Naturheilkd, 2002; 9 (3): Hamamelis Leaf. E.S.C.O.P. (ed). Monographs (On The medicinal Uses Of Plants Drugs).Exeter (UK), 1997; (633.8 (031) ENC). Hughes-Formella BJ. et al. Anti-inflamatory effect of hamamelis lotion in a UVB erythema test. Dermatology., 1998; 196 (3): Masaki H. et al. Active-Oxygen Scavenging Activity of Plant Extracts. Biol.Pharm. Bull, 1995; 18 (1): (ref. 176). Pérez-Trueba G. Los flavonoides: antioxidantes o prooxidantes. Rev. Cubana Invest. Biomed., 2003; 22 (1): Ramos M.F.S. et al. Preliminary studies towards utilization of various plant extracts as antisolar agents. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci., 1996; 18: (ref. 2154) Wang H. et al. Determination of hamamelitannin, catechins and gallic acid in witch hazel bark, twig and leaf by HPLC. J Pharm Biomed Anal., 2003; 33: Páginas web: [accessed July 2006]. [accessed July 2006]. Mallow Alonso, J. Tratado de Fitofármacos y Nutracéuticos. Barcelona: Corpus, 2004, p: (633.8 ALO). Bruneton J. Farmacognosia. Zaragoza: Ed. Acribia, 2001; p: (651*1 BRU). Council of Europe. Plants preparations used as ingredients of cosmetic products. Strasbourg Cedex: Council of Europe Publishing, 1994; p: (61*8 PAT). Páginas web: [accessed July 2006]. Chamomile Alonso, Jorge. Tratado de Fitofármacos y Nutracéuticos. Barcelona: Corpus, 2004, p: (633.8 ALO). Achterrath-Tuckermann U. et al. Pharmakologishe Untersuchungen von Kamillen-Inhaltsstoffen. Planta Med., 1980; 39: (ref. 257). Bruneton J. Farmacognosia. Zaragoza: Ed. Acribia, 2001; p: (651*1 BRU). Carle R. & Gomaa K. Chamomille: A pharmacological and clinical profile. Drugs of today, 1992; 28 (8) p: (ref. 254). Chen QX. & Kubo I. Kinetics of mushroom tyrosinase inhibition by quercetin. J. Agric. Food Chem., 2002; 50 (14): Dweck AC. The Society of Cosmetic Scientists 1999 Spring Symposium. Cosmoceuticals one small steo or a giant leap? Proving benefits for botanical products. Int J Cosmet Sci., 2000; 22 (4): (ref. 3962). V 01-07/

9 Kobayashi Y. et al. Dietary intake of the flower extracts of German Chamomile (Matricaria recutita L..) inhibited compound 48/80-induced itch-scratch responses in mice. Phytomed., 2003; 10 (8): (ref. 6465). Matricaria chamomilla. Plant preparations used as ingredients of cosmetic products. Volume I. Council of Europe, st edition, p: (68*1 PAT). Matricaria Flos.E.S.C.O.P. (ed). Monographs. On The medicinal Uses Of Plants Drugs. Exeter (UK), 1997; (633.8(031) ENC). Matkar NM. Natural and Synthetic Hair Dyes: a Solution for Graying Hair. www,thecosmticsite.com. Mazokopakis EE. et al. Wild chamomile (Matricaria recutita) mouthwashes in methotrexate-induced oral mucositis. Phytomed., 2005; 72 (1): 25-7 (ref. 7190). Raal A. et al. Comparación de aceites esenciales de Matricaria recutita L. de origen diverso. Ars Pharmaceutica, 2003; p: Ramos MFS. et al. Preliminary studies towards utilization of various plants extracts as antisolar agents. Int J Cosmet Sci., 1996; 18: (ref. 2154). Santamaría González V. & Alvarado Delgadillo A. Flora cutánea como protección y barrera de la piel normal. Rev. Cent. Dermatol. Pascua, 2002; 11 (1): p: Páginas web: [accessed July 2006]. [accessed July 2006]. Lime tree Alonso, Jorge. Tratado de Fitofármacos y Nutracéuticos. Barcelona: Corpus, 2004, p: (633.8 ALO). Anesini C. et al. Effect of Tilia cordata flower on lumphocyte proliferation: participation of peripheral type benzodiazepine binding sites. Fitoterapia, 1999; 70 (4): (ref.3547). Bruneton J. Farmacognosia. Zaragoza: Ed. Acribia, 2001; p: (651*1 BRU). Council of Europe. Plants preparations used as ingredients of cosmetic products. Strasbourg Cedex: Council of Europe Publishing, 1994; p: (61*8 PAT). Currier N.L. et al. Effect over time of in vivo administration of the polysaccharide arabinogalactan on immune and hemopoietic cell lineages in murine spleen and bone marrow. Phytomedicine, 2003; 10 (2): (ref. 6103). Kelly G.S. Larch Arabinogalactan: Clinical Relevance of a Novel Immune-Enhancing Polysaccharide. Altern. Med. Rev., 1999; 4 (2): Kim Y.-J. et al. Tyrosinase inhibitors from natural and synthetic sources: structure, inhibition mechanism and prespective for the future. CMLS, Cell. Mol. Life Sci., 2005; 62: Pérez-Trueba G. Los flavonoides: antioxidantes o prooxidantes. Rev. Cubana Invest. Biomed., 2003; 22 (1): Spignoli G. Protective effects of dietary flavonoids on cardiovascular system and circulation. European Bulletin of Drug Research, 2000; 8 (1): 1-8. Xie LP. et al. Inhibitory Effects of Some Flavonoids on the Activity of Mushroom Tyrosinase. Biochemistry (Moscow), 2002; 68 (4): Páginas web: [accessed July 2006]. [accessed July 2006]. [accessed July 2006]. V 01-07/