PHYTOBIOACTIVES Cariciline CARICILINE GREENTECH S.A

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2 Natural Gel MOISTURIZING AND REFRESHING The main function of skin is : To ensure a protective function in relation to external aggressions : mechanical, chemical and microbial aggressions. To ensure exchanges taking place mainly in thermoregulation. To ensure a sensory function. In order to play its role perfectly, it is necessary that skin preserves its integrity, an integrity which is mainly maintained by the regulation of its water content. A well hydrated skin is smooth and soft. A dehydrated skin is more sensitive to inflammation and present a rough aspect. It is characterized by modifications at desmosomes and corneocytes level and intercorneocytar lipidic phases. Dry skin is characterized by a slowdown in the desquamation process and leads to a loss of plasticity. Hydration is in fact related to the barrier function of corneum stratum which depends on the water kinetic in skin., natural gel obtained from Fig contributes then, to maintain homeostasis by regulating water loss through skin. The texture gives a significant refreshing effect. 2

3 INTRODUCTION At cutaneous level, water is primarily in dermis by the glycosaminoglycanes (GAG) intermediary which take part by association with proteins in the constitution of a gel in which are flooded the proteinic fibres which ensure the skin mechanical properties ; GAG are in fact the dermis hydration supports. The available water contained in dermis will move by diffusion towards epidermis. It crosses skin by soaking through the various layers of the corneum stratum. (the corneum stratum contains 10 to water 15%) and evaporates on the surface according to the atmosphere hygrometric degree. At stratum level, water exists in two thermo-dynamics forms - Free water : in which ions and other molecules are dissolved - Linked water which interacts with lipids and proteins of stratum corneum. This linked water accounts for approximately 20 to 30% of total volume of water. 3

4 H2O Hydrolipidic film Epidermis Corneum stratum 25% water in linked form H2O NMF H2O Granulosum stratum Spinosum Stratum PROTEINS 70% water in free form Water gradient Germinative stratum H2O H2O Basal membrane Dermis Free water H2O H2O HOW TO PRESERVE A GOOD SKIN HYDRATION It was shown, that during ageing, skin is dehydrated. Between 25 and 65 years, the water loss can reach 50%. The skin hydration state is conditionned by : - Water flux - Balance between diffusion and evaporation - The water fixation capacity at stratum corneum level 4

5 And depends mainly on : - intercellular lipidic cement, responsible for hydric regulation of water flows. - Intracellular NMF composition (Natural Moisturizing Factor), responsible for water fixation on corneocytes. Among the moisturizing substances, it can be found : - filmogen substances of polysaccharides able to form a film decreasing the stratum corneum permeability and limiting the TEWL (transepidermic Water Loss). - Hygroscopic substances contained in corneocytes under the name of NMF which includ ions (sodium, Potassium, Chlorine, phosphorus), organic acids, amino-acids, urea, free sugars as glucose and fructose. The Active, is composed of filmogen substances and hygroscopic components able to slow down the water evaporation speed and consequently to maintain the stratum corneum integrity, thus supporting extensibility and skin flexibility. 5

6 NATURAL GEL OF FIG Ficus carica Fig is coming from Persian and Minor Asia. It grows in wild state all around the mediteranean area to Canaries. Fig is a tree which can reach 10 meters high. Fig has various therapeutic properties. Its latex makes disappear warts and erases freckles. Latex is characterized by the presence of enzyme with proteasic activity, the Ficine. Fig would be one of the first fruits to be cultivated by our ancestors. Figs are fruits very rich in pectins and polyphenols and present emollient properties. 6

7 ANALYTICAL DESCRIPTION Cariciline comes in the form of a clear beige gel, viscous Dry matter : 5% Of which Pectins : 0.75% Malic Acid : 1.5% Free sugars : 2.75% contains : (results expressed compared to dry matter) - 15% of Pectins or constituted polysaccharides : Galacturonic acid : 60-65% Pectins contained in are responsible for the gelled aspect of active. These sugars are polysaccharides constituted mainly of acid oses as galacturonic acid which have a filmogen role and limit the transepidermic water loss. - 55% free sugars of which : 15% Fructose 40% Glucose These free sugars take part of NMF and maintain water into corneum stratum. Sugars would be strongly linked to Keratine. They tend to reconstitute NMF. - 30% Malic acid This alpha-hydroxy acid participates in the epidermic hydration by having a plasticizing ability. It induces the catabolism of epidermis keratin in amino acids, essential factors of hydration. Thus it increases skin flexibility and elasticity by giving it a silkiness touch. 7

8 MOISTURIZING EFFECT Clinical evaluation Methodology : The moisturizing effect of was carried out by a non-invasive technic among 10 volunteers aged between 18 and 55. The evaluation is done with Dermalab (equivalent to coneometer). This apparatus measures the electric resistance of skin using a specific probe. Measurements are taken by 4 cycles of 1 second. The measurement taken into account is the average of the 3 latest measurements. Using : is tested in a formula with 5%. An area of 25 cm 2 was delimited inside the forearm. After 30 minutes of acclimatization to the environment, the hydration degree on the delimited areas of the 2 forearms was assessed with Dermalab. The cream is applied in a standardized way (2 ml/cm 2 ) on the delimited area of forearm, by a soft uniform massage using a glove. After 1 hour, 4 hours then 8 hours of application, the hydration degree on the delimited areas of the 2 forearms was measured with Dermalab. 8

9 EVALUATION OF HYDRATION DEGREE BY AREA Hydration level Control 0 T0 T1h T4h T8h ensures a significant hydration amount 1 hour after the application. The hydration level remains significantly higher on the treated area compared to the control area after 4 and 8 hours of application. The active has not only an immediate action but also an extended and gradual effect on cutaneous hydration. 9

10 EVALUATION OF HYDRATION DEGREE DURING TIME Variation during time of the hydration degree of the treated area compared to the control area % of variation T1h T4h T8h allows a hydration amount of : 91%, 1 hour after application 70%, 4 hours after application 38%, 8 hours after application 1 hour after application, the hydration degree is twice more important in presence of compared to the control. 10

11 REFRESHING AND WELL-BEING EFFECT Application use Sensorial test The feelings were collected following the product application, then 1 hour after, using a questionnaire. The cream containing 5% of is applied by the volunteer. Each volunteer applies the product on his face (300 µl) then inside the forearm at the wrist level (300 µl). The face application made it possible to bring back the particular impressions felt in the case of a face cream formulation and the application at the forearm level, to compare some skin states without the product. Results All the measured effects were felt at the face and forearm level. Refreshing effect with Following application 20% 80% Refreshing effect No refreshing effect 80% volunteers felt a fresh effect during application 11

12 Well-Being effect with Following application 1 hour after application Well-Being effect No well-being effect Well-Being effect No Well-Being effect 40% 40% 60% 60% Improvement in cutaneous elasticity with Following application Improvement in cutaneous elasticity 40% No improvement of cutaneous elasticity 60% 60% volunteers felt an improvement in cutaneous elasticity after application 12

13 Improvement in cutaneous soothing with Following application 1 hour after application Improvement in cutaneous soothing No improvement in cutaneous soothing Improvement in cutaneous soothing No improvement in cutaneous soothing 20% 30% 80% 70% Soothing effect with Following application 1 hour after application Soothing effect No soothing effect Soothing effect 10% 90% 100% 100% volunteers found a soothing effect 13

14 Improvement in skin comfort 40% Improvement in skin comfort No improvement in skin comfort 60% : Improvement in skin comfort : 60% It should be noted that besides the suggested effects, a volunteer noted a lifting effect on the face. CONCLUSION According to the collected impressions of volunteers following the application of, it can be noted significantly : A freshness sensation An improvement in skin comfort A well-being impression A softer and soother skin 14

15 CONCLUSION By limiting the insensitive water loss, improves the cutaneous hydration rate. plays a preventive role in relation to cutaneous ageing by skin smoothing. improves the skin flexibility which becomes softer. While being opposed to the water molecules transfer towards the external environment related to the polysaccharides filmogen effect it contains and by maintaining a sufficient NMF rate, ensures the cutaneous homeostasis maintaining. Thus, enables skin to play entirely its barrier role in relation to external aggressions. The exceptionally refreshing effect of gives it a soothing and destressing role. corneocytes TEWL increase Refreshing and soothing Effect TEWL decrease Normal skin Dry skin - Corneocytes desquamation - Increase in insensitive water loss Hydrated skin PRESERVES HYDRIC BALANCE - Corneocytes cohesion - Hydration amount : + 91% 15

16 APPLICATIONS MOISTURIZES SKIN HELPS SKIN TO FIGHT AGAINST STRESS is used for ANTI-AGE CREAM MOISTURIZING CREAM AFTER SHAVE GEL SOOTHING CREAM AFTER SUN CREAM HEAVY LEGS GEL Concentration use : 5% INCI name : Water, Ficus carica Fruit Extract, Xanthan Gum 16