Surprising Csmetic Functinal Benefits f Plant Wax Butters Dr. Yn Gattefssé
Natural Skincare Textures getting better Increase f available emllients Sensatin f insufficient misturizatin & cmfrt Heavy feel vs nurishing efficacy
Why lk at waxes? Majr barrier against water lss Renewable surce Excellent safety prfile Prperties very different t vegetable ils & butters
Wrld prductin f waxes Availability & cst? Quality? Lw MW plylefins Paraffins (petrleum) 1% animal 2% vegetable 75-85% Synthetic waxes 10-15% Natural waxes Apple peel range peel Carnauba Candelilla Jjba Sunflwer Rice bran Sugar cane Jasmin Mimsa Beeswax
Chice f waxes Candelilla Euphrbia cerifera True artisanal wax Hard, film frming, barrier prperties 40-50% hydrcarbns (C29-33), high MW saturated esters, fatty alchls & acids, sterls Fd additive, lipsticks, pencils Rice bran ryza sativa Fd industry c-prduct Hard, high MP wax (80 C), builds viscsity Lng chain mn-esters Used in csmetics and in fd as a cating
Chice f waxes Simmndsia chinensis Liquid wax 97% esters mainly unsaturated (C40-44) Frequent use in csmetics & pharmaceuticals Jjba Sunflwer seed Mimsa Helianthus Annuus Fd industry c-prduct Hard, high MP wax, excellent thermal stability High carbn fully saturated mn-esters (C38-54) Acacia decurrens C-prduct f perfumery Sft wax, gd viscsity builder, MP 61 C Lng chain esters, hydrcarbns, triterpenid alchls, free fatty acids
Frmulatin difficulties High temperature required Slubility issues Recrystallizatin & destabilizatin /W emulsin withut waxes /W emulsin with 5% candelilla wax
Sensrial prperties in emulsin Sensrial analysis plt Sft afterfeel Thickness 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 Spreadability Frmula with 5% Candelilla wax Placeb Frmula Tacky afterfeel Sftness upn applicatin with wax Film residue Greasiness Requires imprvement
Transfrming waxes Maintain basic chemistry Imprve frmulability & slubility Imprve sensrial prperties Respect Principles f Green Chemistry* *Jhn C. Warner & Paul T. Anastas,1998
Transfrming waxes Reactive grup Hydrcarbns Nne Saturated esters Free fatty acids H H Free fatty alchls H H Unsaturated esters
TLBX Transfrming waxes Add hydrphilicity Hydrphilic reactant Slvent Catalyst/ activatin Renewable raw materials Energy Essential Useful Essential Desirable Essential
Transfrming waxes Reactant? PEG Slvent? Safety Manufacturing Txiclgy Carbn ftprint Eliminatin Retreatment H Hydrphilic reactant H H H H Plyglycerl-3 (frm vegetable glycerin)
Transfrming waxes Catalyst? Yes Enzymes? Pr reactivity f higher fatty esters Heat sensitive at the melting temperature f waxes Nn-plluting catalyst : base
ne des nt fit all Unsaturated esters Spread and sftness little sensrial persnality Saturated esters Builds viscsity hard, rugh skin feel Hydrcarbns Saturated esters Film frming, barrier effect hydrphbic, slubility
Functinalizatin f waxes Natural waxes (slid & liquid) H H H H H Plant rigin plyglycerl-3 ne-step, equilibrium based reactin
Transesterificatin Sunflwer seed Jjba Mimsa H H H H H H riginal esters Plyglyceryl-3 Wax esters Etc. New cmbined esters
Percentage f slid Melting prfile 100 80 After reactin mimsa sunflwer seed Jjba 60 Mimsa Sunflwer seed Nn-derived blend 40 Derived blend 20 jjba Befre reactin 0-20 0 20 40 60 80 100 Temperature ( C)
Slubility Recrystallizatin in sweet almnd il (20% wax) 100 µm 100 µm Sunflwer / Mimsa / jjba wax blend Same after reactin in plyglycerl-3
Recrystallizatin Micrscpe image f il/water emulsin cntaining 5% waxes Nn-reacted Sunflwer / Mimsa / jjba wax blend Plyglycerl-3 reacted Sunflwer / Mimsa / jjba wax blend
Water absrptin Plyglyceryl-3 reacted blend f jjba/ candelilla/ rice bran waxes BEFRE
Water absrptin 6 x weight in water AFTER
Amphiphilic prperties Practical HLB f 4 (c-emulsificatin) 5% Shea butter 5% plant wax butter (acacia decurrens/ jjba/ sunflwer seed wax) Lipstick with 2% water phase (red aqueus fd clrant)
Sensry perfrmance texture 8 7 Sft feel 6 5 4 spread 3 2 1 mdified wax lanline shea butter sticky residue stickiness residual film sftness n applicatin Emulsin cntaining 5% plant wax butter / lanline / shea butter
misturizing effect (%) Misturizing efficacy (28D) /W emulsin at 5% in cmparisn t lanlin Misturizatin increase f 23% 25 20 Crnemetry 15 10 5 0 Cntrl Lanlin Plant wax butter Percentage variatin (D28-D0) f the misturizing effect as measured by crnemetry f a frmulatin cntaining either 5% Lanlin r 5% Plant wax butter cmpared t a nn-treated area. 25 vlunteers.
Skin micrrelief (28D) Stripping & ptical micrscpy Measurement = Quality f surface aspect & regularity f the tpgraphy Cntrl CNTRL D D28-9 % % Imprvement in quality f skin micrrelief D28-D0* * average f 25 vlnteers
Skin micrrelief (28D) Lanlin LANLIN* +6.1 % D D28 % Imprvement in quality f skin micrrelief D28-D0 *at 5% in a /W emulsin
Skin micrrelief (28D) +8.2 % PLANT WAX BUTTER* D D28 Plant wax butter % Imprvement in quality f skin micrrelief D28-D0 *at 5% in a /W emulsin
Skin micrrelief (28D) Befre Plant wax butter* After *at 5% in a /W emulsin
Self assessment (7D) The cream spreads easily 100% The skin is reinfrced The skin is mre supple 80% 60% 40% 20% 0% The cream is nn-sticky Frmulatin C: Plant wax butter Frmulatin D: Lanlin The cream leaves a prtective film The skin is nurished The skin is misturized The skin is sfter */W emulsin, panel f 15 vlnteers, tested twice daily n the face
Transfrmed waxes Frmulability imprved Texture imprved New prperties «Green» prcess
Thanks T Jean-David Rdier, Paula Lennn & the lechemistry team f Gattefssé in Lyn T Reed Exhibitins