Apostolos Pappas. Editor. Nutrition and Skin. Lessons for Anti-Aging, Beauty and Healthy Skin

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1 Nutrition and Skin

2 wwwwwwwwwwwww

3 Apostolos Pappas Editor Nutrition and Skin Lessons for Anti-Aging, Beauty and Healthy Skin

4 Editor Apostolos Pappas The Johnson & Johnson Skin Research Center CPPW, A Division of Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc. Skillman, NJ 08558, USA apostolos_pappas@yahoo.com ISBN e-isbn DOI / Springer New York Dordrecht Heidelberg London Library of Congress Control Number: Springer Science+Business Media, LLC 2011 All rights reserved. This work may not be translated or copied in whole or in part without the written permission of the publisher (Springer Science+Business Media, LLC, 233 Spring Street, New York, NY 10013, USA), except for brief excerpts in connection with reviews or scholarly analysis. Use in connection with any form of information storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed is forbidden. The use in this publication of trade names, trademarks, service marks, and similar terms, even if they are not identified as such, is not to be taken as an expression of opinion as to whether or not they are subject to proprietary rights. While the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of going to press, neither the authors nor the editors nor the publisher can accept any legal responsibility for any errors or omissions that may be made. The publisher makes no warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein. Printed on acid-free paper Springer is part of Springer Science+Business Media (

5 Preface Good health has been always associated with nutrition and skin quality. It is apparent that we all desire to live longer healthy lives while maintaining a youthful appearance. A vast amount of epidemiological and clinical studies link various nutrients to health benefits in tissues and organs. Recent interest in these relations is triggering progressive reexploration by the dermatological community, particularly where connections between diet and skin have previously been dismissed. A promising volume of publications and findings now support ideas and validate theories that key nutrients are imperative for healthy skin. Today s global economy urges food scientists and professionals to identify novel ways that can help producers reach consumers. Undoubtedly, in the world of food science the dining table is the predominant route from the food producer to the consumer. However, from any farmer who harvests flaxseeds or soybeans to every ingredient manufacturer who markets tocopherols, polyphenols, or plant extracts, it is apparent that there are many other routes to reach the consumer. The wide variety of non-food consumer products offers numerous examples. The abundant use of vitamins and antioxidants by the cosmetic industry and their effects on skin care and dermal health has been greatly underestimated, or perhaps unseen, in the food science community, which is wholly focused on dietary use of these nutrients. Thus, not only might topical application of these products further establish the efficacy of these functional ingredients for use on skin, but their ingestion might be even more efficacious. Current consumer trends have brought anti-aging and consumer products from nutritional supplements to skin care into billion dollar ranges that only drugs used to reach. All of these products are tightly connected with the health, wellness, and needs of the modern-day consumer. The main pillars of the marketing power behind these products are the pharmacological activity of nutraceuticals. This book serves to educate and decode the role of vitamins, essential fatty acids, and other nutraceuticals on skin health and their tremendous impact on skin health. In addition, a discussion of the potential role of functional foods is provided. Focus on skin conditions such as acne, dermatitis, dry scaly skin, or alopecia can provide v

6 vi Preface comprehensive knowledge regarding the relation of nutrition and skin, as can a review of current nutritional clinical studies in dermatological research. The contributing authors are leaders in their field who concentrate on facts and actual scientific studies. They outline the need for more studies in this new field that is so close to the heart of the consumers in our society. Indeed, the effort here is to concentrate not only on what we know but what we do not (but need to) know to meet consumers needs. We seek to elucidate not only the potential health benefits that certain diets or nutrients bring to various tissues and organs but also the contributing effects on our skin health and visible condition. It is up to all of us scientists, doctors, the industry, the sponsoring agencies, the government, and all the people to find this extra time, effort, and help to address, although not life-threatening, an issue closely associated with the quality of life, health, and well-being. Skillman, NJ Apostolos Pappas

7 Contents 1 Introduction and Overview... 1 Apostolos Pappas Part I Nutrients and Skin 2 Vitamin A and the Skin... 7 Rana Mohsen Elewa and Christos C. Zouboulis 3 Relevance of the Cutaneous Vitamin D Endocrine System for Skin Physiology and Treatment of Skin Diseases Léa Trémezaygues and Jörg Reichrath 4 Photoprotection of the Skin with Vitamins C and E: Antioxidants and Synergies Karen E. Burke 5 Carotenoids and Skin Sagar K. Thakkar, Angus M. Moodycliffe, and Myriam Richelle 6 Antioxidants and Skin Juergen Lademann, Maxim E. Darvin, and Ulrike Heinrich 7 Minerals and the Skin Petra Winkler 8 Probiotics and Skin Robert J. Boyle, Sampo J. Lahtinen, and Mimi L.K. Tang Part II Clinical Crossover Between Nutrition and Dermatology 9 Diet and Acne Apostolos Pappas vii

8 viii Contents 10 Glycemic Load and Acne Robyn Smith and Neil Mann 11 Essential Fatty Acids and Atopic Dermatitis Anthony Vincent Rawlings 12 Hair Biology and Nutritional Influences Michael Anthonavage 13 Detecting and Monitoring Nutrients on Skin Using Noninvasive Methods Georgios N. Stamatas and Nikiforos Kollias 14 Nutritional Clinical Studies in Dermatology Aikaterini I. Liakou, Michael J. Theodorakis, and Christos C. Zouboulis Index

9 Contributors Michael Anthonavage Presperse, LLC, Somerset, NJ, USA Robert J. Boyle Department of Paediatrics, Imperial College London, London, UK Karen E. Burke Department of Dermatology, Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York, NY, USA Maxim E. Darvin Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology (CCP), Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Germany Rana Mohsen Elewa Departments of Dermatology, Venereology, Allergology, and Immunology, Dessau Medical Center, Dessau, Germany Ulrike Heinrich Institut für Experimentelle Dermatologie, Universität Witten-Herdecke, Witten-Annen, Germany Nikiforos Kollias Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc, Skillman, NJ, USA Juergen Lademann Center of Experimental and Applied Cutaneous Physiology (CCP), Department of Dermatology, Venerology and Allergology, Charité Universitätsmedizin Berlin, Germany Sampo J. Lahtinen Danisco Health & Nutrition, Kantvik, Finland Aikaterini I. Liakou Departments of Dermatology, Venereology, Allergology, and Immunology, Dessau Medical Center, Dessau, Germany Neil Mann School of Applied Sciences, RMIT University, Melbourne, VIC, Australia Angus M. Moodycliffe Nestlé Research Center, Lausanne, Switzerland ix

10 x Contributors Apostolos Pappas The Johnson & Johnson Skin Research Center, CPPW, A Division of Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc., Skillman, NJ, USA Anthony Vincent Rawlings AVR Consulting Ltd, Northwich/Cheshire, UK Jörg Reichrath Department of Dermatology, The Saarland University Hospital, Homburg/Saar, Germany Myriam Richelle Nestlé Research Center, Lausanne, Switzerland Robyn Smith Baker IDI Heart and Diabetes Institute, Melbourne, VIC, Australia Georgios N. Stamatas Johnson & Johnson Consumer France, Issy-les-Moulineaux, France Mimi L.K. Tang Department of Allergy and Immunology, Royal Children s Hospital, Melbourne, VIC, Australia Murdoch Children s Research Institute, Melbourne, VIC, Australia Department of Paediatrics, University of Melbourne, Melbourne, VIC, Australia Sagar K. Thakkar Nestlé Research Center, Lausanne, Switzerland Michael J. Theodorakis University of Athens Medical School, Athens, Greece Léa Trémezaygues Department of Dermatology, The Saarland University Hospital, Homburg/Saar, Germany Petra Winkler J&J, Medical Affairs, EMEA, Neuss, Germany Christos C. Zouboulis Departments of Dermatology, Venereology, Allergology, and Immunology, Dessau Medical Center, Dessau, Germany

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