ANTI- DANDRUFF. Cinnamon.

Transcription

1 ANTI- DANDRUFF Cinnamon

2 Cinnamon BOTANY Cinnamomum zeylanicum Ness. (=Cinnamomum verum J. Presl), common name cinnamon. This evergreen tree is a member of family Lauraceae; it grows typically 6-12 meters tall; the bark is light colored, thick and rough; the leaves are opposite (occasionally alternate), 7-20 cm long, oblongovate, three-nerved, glossy upside and pale beneath; the flowers are abundant, yellowish-white, longer than the leaves, arranged in regular cymes, with a rancid aroma; the fruits are berries, each containing a unique seed. Cinnamon tree is native to Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Java and Southern India. It was introduced in the Seychelles Islands and Madagascar across the Indian Ocean. It grows wild in forests up to 1000 meters altitude; this plant is cultivated in some American tropical countries, especially Jamaica and Brazil (Sao Paulo and Bahia). Bark is stripped from 6 to 8 years old trees and left to sun-dry. In this way, the thin strips curl into rolls known as quills. Cinnamon extract is produced from the bark of C.zeylanicum, coming from organic crop and fair trade. V 02-04/

3 CHEMISTRY Polyphenols Catechin, epicatechin, oligomeric procyanidins (procyanidin B2), condensed tannins and phenolic acids. Fig. 1. Procyanidin B2 Essential oil %. Mainly composed of aromatic aldehydes including: cinnamic aldehyde (60-75%), eugenol (10%), hydroxy-cinnamaldehyde, benzaldehyde and cuminaldehyde. Other minor components are: β- caryophyllene, α-ylangene, pinene, α and β-phellandrene, p-cymene, α-copaene, α-terpineol, cinnzeylanol, cinnzeylanin, linalool, cinnamic alcohol, humulene, benzyl-alcohol, 2-pheny-lethyl-alcohol, benzylbenzoate, 2-phenyl-ethyl-benzoate, methyl-cinnamate, isoeugenol, methyl-eugenol, phenol, 2-vinylphenol, safrole, coumarins. Other active principles Mucilage, diterpens and mannitol. V 02-04/

4 TRADITIONAL USES Cinnamon is a well-known plant since 4,000 years ago. Ancient Egyptians used it to fight epidemic outburst and to embalm the death. Arabian merchants provided cinnamon to the Greeks and Romans, who used it as a spice because of its stimulatory properties. In the popular medicine, cinnamon is used to stimulate the appetite, as an eupeptic, carminative, antiseptic, spasmolytic and emmenagogue agent, and to treat dysmenorrhea. In topical application, cinnamon is a mild astringent and a rubefacient. COSMETIC PROPERTIES Dermo-stimulant activity Topical applications of a number of essential oils stimulate blood microcirculation and produce marked rubefaction, heat sensation and, in certain cases, mild anesthesia (Bruneton J., 2001). This activity also stimulates blood microcirculation in the pilosebaceous system, thus preventing hair loss. Therefore, Cinnamon extract is recommended to formulate cosmetic products with stimulating activity on blood microcirculation. Antioxidant activity Several studies showed the antioxidant activity of cinnamon. Anderson et al. in 2004 studied polyphenolic compounds of cinnamon aqueous extract. They found A-type procyanidin oligomers and polymers, formed by catechins and epicatechins; furthermore, they identified procyanidins B1 and B2. All these compounds have demonstrated antioxidant activity (Anderson, 2004). In the study conducted by Mathew et al. in 2004, antioxidant activity of cinnamon extract is showed. This is because of its hydrogen donating ability and its V 02-04/

5 free radical scavenging activity, especially against DPPH and ABTS radicals, but also the hydroxyl and superoxide radicals (Mathew, 2004). Therefore, Cinnamon extract is recommended in the formulation of cosmetic products intended to preserve the integrity of skin and hair against oxidative processes. Antiglycation activity Non-enzymatic glycation is a term that describes permanent post-translational modification of amino groups in proteins, lipids and nucleic acids by the action of reducing sugars. The products resulting from these modifications have been denominated as AGE (advanced glycation end products). The accumulation of these products as we age, which is typical in diabetic complications, is also responsible for cosmetic alterations in the skin. At skin level, glycation of proteins from extracellular matrix, causes abnormal links in collagen and elastin networks, affecting its correct functionality. The result is a higher stiffness and loss of skin elasticity. Several studies show that different compounds can inhibit protein glycation. For example, cinnamon contains high concentration of polyphenols, which can block the formation of advanced glycation endproducts (AGE) and delay aging (Dearlove, 2008). In the study conducted by Peng et al. in 2008, they used the aqueous extract of cinnamon bark, which contains phenolic compounds such as catechin, epicatechin and procyanidin B2. These compounds showed an inhibitory effect of PGA formation, thanks to its antioxidant activity and its ability of trapping reactive carbonyl species like methylglyoxal (MGO). Therefore, Cinnamon extract is recommended for the formulation of energizing and anti-aging products. Antimicrobial activity Cinnamon essential oil has been reported to act as a bactericide, antimycotic, antiviral, ascaricide, nematocide, dental plaque remover, and insecticide agent, the later property based on the diterpenes cinnzeylanol and cinnzeylanin, % dilution. Carbon dioxide extract of cinnamon bark (0.1%) has shown in vitro inhibitory action on the growth of Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. Cinnamon essence has shown in vitro activity against Bacillus subtilis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Salmonella typhi, S.paratyphi, Escherichia coli, Mycobacterium tuberculosis, Staphylococcus aureus, Candida albicans V 02-04/

6 and Aspergillus spp. Furthermore, the hydro-ethanol extract of cinnamon bark contains a substance that inhibits the bacterial endotoxin LPS. Cinnamon essential oil has been found to inhibit listeriolysin-o, a cytolytic protein that promotes infection by Listeria monocytogenes. Further studies showed that cinnamic aldehyde is the main inhibitory component in cinnamon oil, and that inhalation of this compound can be used against fungi that affect the respiratory tract such as: Aspergillus niger, A.fumigatus, A.nidulans, A.flavus, Candida albicans, C.tropicalis, C.pseudotropicalis and Histoplasma capsulatum. These results are relevant for aromatherapy applications of cinnamon in an antibiotic approach. Other fungi that showed in vitro sensitivity to cinnamon oil are: Cladosporium werneckii, Geotrichum candidum, Kloeckera apivulata and Candida lipolytica. Cinnamon essential oil also affected the fungi Losiodiplodia theobromae, Colletotrichum musae and Fusarium proliferatum. Topically applied solutions containing cinnamon bark oil inhibited oral candidiasis. Administrations of cinnamon bark extracts for a week were effective in fighting fluconazole-resistant Candida albicans in five HIV positive patients with oral mycosis. Also cinnamon hydro-acetone extract effectively inhibited this fungus in vitro (Alonso J, 2004). Therefore, cinnamon extract is recommended to formulate cosmetic products with purifying and antiseptic activity. Astringent activity Cinnamon contains tannins and procyanidins, which give this product astringent activity. Applied topically, tannins coat the outermost layers of skin and mucosa, thus protecting the deeper layers. These compounds also act as vasoconstrictor agents on small superficial vessels. By restricting fluid loss and preventing environmental damage, tannins promote tissue regeneration (epithelizing) in superficial wounds or burns (Bruneton J., 2001). These properties, together with the antimicrobial action of the essential oil, make cinnamon a useful active ingredient for cosmetic preparations aimed at regulating sebum secretion and for cosmetic products with epithelizing activity. Finally, we would like to mention that the reference publication Plants preparations used as ingredients of cosmetic products (Council of Europe, 1994) includes a monograph dedicated to the essential oil of C.zeylanicum bark and leaves, where the following properties are attributed to it: V 02-04/

7 tonic, deodorant, purifying, refreshing, astringent, aromatic, fragrance further possible effects: stimulatory, antiseptic, astringent (low doses) BIBLIOGRAPHIC EFFICACY STUDY Cinnamon is rich in polyphenols, such as catechin, epicatechin and procyanidin B2. In the study performed by Peng et al. in 2008, it is demonstrated that the cinnamon polyphenol content inhibits the formation of advanced glycation endproducts (AGEs), responsible of cosmetic alterations on the skin. 1. Experimental method Several cinnamon (C.zeylanicum) extracts in different solvents, were investigated in a bovine serum albumin (BSA)-glucose to determine its antiglycation activity, using aminoguanidine (AG) as positive control. In the same way, the effect of various fractions of these extracts was assessed, and also in the phenolic compounds (catechin, epicatechin and procyanidin B2) identified in the most active fractions. Furthermore, the MGO trapping ability of extracts and compounds was tested, to see if they could directly trap reactive carbonyl species. MGO is one of the intermediate reactive carbonyl that can react to become AGEs. In this test was also compared to aminoguanidine. 2. Results The BSA-glucose model provides a useful tool for assessing the inhibition of the nonenzymatic glycation process. All three extracts showed suppression of AGEs formation, including aqueous extract with 43.6% reduction of AGEs. Fig. 2. Inhibitory effects of catechin, epicatechin and procyanidin B2 on formation of AGEs V 02-04/

8 The compounds identified in the most effective extract fractions, confirmed individual antiglycation activity (Fig. 2), resulting in more than 50% reduction. Procyanindin B2 was the most active component. Most of the studied phenolic compounds had a good correlation between free radical scavenger activity and AGEs inhibition in vitro. This suggested that they exert their inhibitory activity by interrupting the autoxidative pathways, such as reactions conducted by reactive oxygen species (ROS) or oxidative stress. The test of methylglyoxal showed that cinnamon phenolic compounds have an important MGO trapping capacity, stronger than aminoguanidine (Fig. 3). Therefore, they are able to inhibit carbonyl radicals and avoid that they become AGEs, causing aging. Other fractions of the extracts, which contained oligomers and proanthocyanidin polymers, also supported the AGEs inhibition and MGO trapping capacity. Fig. 3. MGO scavenging abilities of catechin, epicatechin and procyanidin B2 using aminoguanidine as positive 3. Conclusions control. This study demonstrates that cinnamon can inhibit the formation of advanced glycation products, involved in skin aging. This inhibitory effect might be due to the antioxidant capacity of some of its phenolic compounds, such as catechin, epicatechin and procyanidin B2. Furthermore, they showed that can inhibit AGEs production by another mechanism, by trapping carbonyl reactive species. Thanks to the activities of its active compounds, Cinnamon extract is suitable for energizing cosmetics or products designed for counteracting skin aging signs. V 02-04/

9 COSMETIC APPLICATIONS Action Active Cosmetic Applications Dermo-stimulant Essential oil Stimulation of blood microcirculation Antioxidant Polyphenols Anti-aging Antiglycation Antimicrobial Astringent Catechins Procyanidins Essential oil Tannins Procyanidins Anti-aging Firming Purifying Antiseptic Sebum secretion regulation Epithelizing RECOMMENDED DOSE The recommended dose is between 0.5% and 5.0%. BIBLIOGRAPHY Alcalde MT. Alimentos usados en formulación cosmética. OFFARM, 2007; 26 (3): Alonso, J. Tratado de Fitofármacos y Nutracéuticos. Barcelona: Corpus, 2004; p: (633.8 ALO). Anderson R.A. et al. Isolation and characterization of polyphenol type-a polymers from Cinnamon with insulin-like biological activity. Journal of agricultural and food chemistry. 2004, 52: Bruneton J. Farmacognosia. Zaragoza: Ed. Acribia, 2001; p: ; (651*1 BRU). Council of Europe. Plants preparations used as ingredients of cosmetic products. Strasbourg Cedex: Council of Europe Publishing, 1994; p: xxx (61*8 PAT). V 02-04/

10 Dearlove R.P. et al. Inhibition of protein glycation by extracts of culinary herbs and spices. Journal of medicinal food. 2008, 11(2): E.S.C.O.P. (ed). Monographs (On The medicinal Uses Of Plants Drugs). Exeter (UK), 1997; p: (633.8(031)ENC). Mathew S. et al. Studies on the antioxidant activities of cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum) bark extracts, through various in vitro models. Food Chemistry. 2004, 94(4): Peng X. et al. Cinnamon bark proanthocyanidins as reactive carbonyl scavengers to prevent the formation of advanced glycation endproducts. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 2008, 56: Prasad K.N. et al. Flavonoid contents and antioxidant activities from Cinnamomum species. Innovative Food Science & Emerging Technologies. 2009, 10(4): V 02-04/

11 PROVITAL. S.A. Pol. Ind. Can Salvatella Gorgs Lladó, Barberà del Vallès Barcelona (España) Tel. (+34) V06-02/ ,12310,12340,12350,12710,