REPAIRING STRENGTHENING. Rhodiola complex TM.

Transcription

1 REPAIRING STRENGTHENING Rhodiola complex TM

2 INTRODUCTION Hair is often subjected to environmental factors such as UV rays, pollution, wind and cosmetic treatments, such as washing, vigorous brushing, ironing, dying, and so on. All these factors contribute to the loss of hair structure making it more susceptible to rupture and producing a progressive degeneration from root to tip, causing split ends. In addition, hair elasticity increases with moisturization but it is reduced by factors such as exposure to sunlight or to low temperatures, and also by processes such as bleaching and perming. This structural damage to the hair, specifically in the cortex keratin, also leads to a rough appearance and a greater tendency to get tangled, making it less manageable. In recent years, ultraviolet radiation is more prevalent due to a reduction in the ozone layer; this causes an increase in the risk of photooxidative damage. Normally, reactive oxygen substances are controlled by antioxidants, but when their concentration increases significantly due to external factors such as UV radiation, antioxidants cannot keep this balance and oxidative stress is caused. This causes damage to cells and proteins, causing photoaging in the hair fibers (Wenk. J et al.) he Golden Root or arctic root is a plant from Siberia, which lives at high altitudes under extreme weather and nutritional conditions. Its ideal environment is a temperate climate and moderate solar radiation, but thanks to its strength and adaptability, it can resist extreme temperatures, droughts and intense solar radiation. It is part of a group of plants called adaptogens, which are capable of surviving under extreme conditions due to substances that help the organism to counteract the effects caused by external aggressions. When they have to adapt to new conditions, they trigger minimal changes in their physiological functions through a wide range of physical, chemical and biological actions, to achieve optimal physical performance. These characteristics of protection and adaptation will be applied to our hair with RHODIOLA COMPLEX; as hair suffers and ages, it becomes more fragile and brittle, and we want to maintain natural strength and elasticity. V 03-04/

3 Rhodiola rosea acts as an antioxidant due to its high content in tyrosol, organic acids and flavonoids. When our hair cannot react to external aggressions, RHODIOLA COMPLEX provides antioxidants, balances its levels and fights external aggressions that damage the hair fiber. Each cell produces its own supply of energy through the mitochondria. The cell stores the energy in molecules called ATP and CP (creatine phosphate), which store and release the energy when needed. There are external factors that reduce this energy production or reduce its release. R. rosea produces an increase in ATP synthesis in the mitochondria, due to the presence of the rosavin complex (Abidov et al., 2003), providing vitality to the hair when it needs it most. With RHODIOLA COMPLEX, we can fight against the damage caused by photoaging and other factors, since Rhodiola rosea is unique due to its medicinal and cosmetic properties. It will also help restore the elasticity, strength and natural appearance of the hair fiber. COMPOSITION GOLDEN ROOT BOTANY Rhodiola rosea L. (= Sedum rhodiola DC = Sedum rosea L. Scop), also called Golden Root or golden or arctic root, belongs to the Crassulaceae family. It mainly grows in temperate climate regions and sub-arctic areas of the northern hemisphere, including North America, Greenland, Iceland, northern Europe and the mountains of central Europe, but it is native to V 03-04/

4 Russia and Siberia. It lives in substrates such as tundra, rocks or cliffs, which are extremely dry areas with low organic content. It is a perennial plant with thick roots, golden exterior and pink interior, which can reach 70 cm in height. Its yellow flowers provide an aroma similar to that of roses, hence the name rosea. The parts of this plant that are used are the root and the rhizome, which contain most of the active components; the essential oil with geraniol can also be found, and it is the main element that brings the rose scent when cut. CHEMISTRY The study of the chemical composition of Rhodiola rosea shows the presence of six groups of active principles (Khanum et al., 2005): Phenylpropanoids: rosavin, rosin, rosarin (specific to R. rosea). The term rosavins comprises the three previous active ingredients. Phenylethanol derivatives: rhodioloside (salidroside), tyrosol. Flavonoids: rodiolin, rodionin, rodiosin, acetylrodalgin, tricin. Monoterpenes: rosiridol. Triterpenes: daucosterol, -sitosterol. Phenolic acids: chlorogenic acid, hydroxycinnamic acid and gallic acid. V 03-04/

5 Antioxidant compounds have been identified, including salidroside, tyrosol, organic acids (gallic acid, caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid) and flavonoids (catechins and proanthocyanidins). Furthermore, the content of rhodioloside and tyrosol in the roots can range from 1.3 to 11.1 mg/g and from 0.3 to 2.2 mg/g, respectively. Figure 1. Tyrosol Figure 2. Rhodioloside Currently, phenylpropanoids, rhodioloside and tyrosol are considered the most critical active ingredients, as constituents of the plant, and also necessary for therapeutic activity. TECHNOLOGY AND FUNCTIONALITY MULTICAPILLARY INJECTION In the preparation stage, the fraction of galactomannans is subjected to a humectation phase with controlled temperature increase until complete solubility is achieved. A hydrocolloid pre-gel is obtained, which is needed to accurately incorporate the Golden Root extract. The galactomannan pre-gel is circulated through a tube at constant temperature and at a certain point a multicapillary injection of the Golden Root extract is applied, followed by an immediate cooling of the system. The injection enables a critical concentration of solutes, which combined with the drastic drop in temperature causes the reaction of the galactomannan, forming a tridimensional matrix that captures the active ingredients. The extract injection is performed continuously and at high pressure, ensuring a homogeneous incorporation of the active ingredients to the galactomannan matrix. V 03-04/

6 The structure formed by the Matrix with the injected Golden Root: Forms a protective film that seals the active ingredients and the humidity inside the fiber. Achieves a better product deposition on the hair. Prolongs the action time of the active ingredients and improves their distribution. The active ingredients remain in the hair after rinsing, but their excessive buildup is avoided with a shampooing. PROPERTIES EFFICACY Efficacy studies have been conducted on strands of dark brown untreated Caucasian hair, comparing a formulation of shampoo and serum with RHODIOLA COMPLEX at 3% with a formulation of placebo shampoo and serum. Restructuring efficacy The strands of hair were washed with shampoo and then treated with the serum. This process was repeated ten times, leaving the hair to dry in a controlled environment for 24 h between treatments. V 03-04/

7 The force required to break the hair and its maximum elasticity before breaking were measured. The strands were studied before and after the treatment, comparing the formulation of RHODIOLA COMPLEX with that of Placebo Improvement of hair properties Breaking force increase (%) Elasticity increase (%) Rhodiola Complex Placebo The strengthening, regenerating and protective properties of RHODIOLA COMPLEX are clearly evidenced by the significant increases in both strength and elasticity of the hair fibers treated with the active ingredient, whereas Placebo had no significant results. RHODIOLA COMPLEX protects the hair from external aggressions, also increasing its strength and elasticity. Anti-frizz efficacy For this study ten strands of curly untreated Caucasian hair were washed with the shampoo and treated with the serum, using in each case the formulation with RHODIOLA COMPLEX or with the placebo. The strands were left to dry naturally under controlled temperature and humidity (23ºC and 50% RH). Images of the 4 sides of the strands were taken and analyzed to obtain the frizz surface before and after the treatment. V 03-04/

8 Before the treatment with PLACEBO After the treatment with PLACEBO Before the treatment with RHODIOLA COMPLEX After the treatment with RHODIOLA COMPLEX RHODIOLA COMPLEX visibly reduces hair fiber frizz, keeping the original hair structure and shape. CONCLUSION Over time and due to external aggressions, hair shows a clear deterioration in its fibers and in its mechanical properties, such as strength and elasticity. The use of RHODIOLA COMPLEX: Improves structural integrity, making hair breakage more difficult. V 03-04/

9 Thanks to the protective and restructuring properties of its components, the elasticity and strength of hair fibers significantly increases. Protects against external aggressions and dehydration, factors that considerably damage hair fibers. Provides vitality to the hair fibers. A very positive anti-frizz effect is achieved. COSMETIC APPLICATIONS Intensive strengthening and repairing hair products. Hair products for daily use (shampoo, mask, conditioner, foam, spray and serum). Fixing and hair styling products (spray, gel, hair spray and hair cream). Hair repairing to use after chemical and/or thermal hair treatments. Dyes. Anti-frizz hair products. RECOMMENDED DOSE The recommended dosage is 1 5 %. BIBLIOGRAPHY Abidov M, Crendal F, Grachev S, Seifulla R, Ziegenfuss T. Effect of extracts from Rhodiola rosea and Rhodiola crenulata (Crassulaceae) roots on ATP content in mitochondria of skeletal muscles. Bulletin of Experimental Biology and Medicine 2003; 136 (6): Brown R.P. and Gerbarg P.L. The Rhodiola Revolution. Rodale, New York (2004). P V 03-04/

10 Khanum F, Bawa Singh A, Sing B. Rhodiola rosea: a versatile adaptogen. Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and Food Safety 2005; 4: Kelly GS. Rhodiola rosea: a possible plant adaptogen. Altern Med Rev 2001; 6(3): Wenk J. et al. UV-induced oxidative stress and photoaging. Oxidants and antioxidants in cutaneous biology. Thiele J. and Elsner P. (eds) Kargel, Basel (2001). P Websites: V 03-04/

11 PROVITAL. S.A. Pol. Ind. Can Salvatella Gorgs Lladó, Barberà del Vallès Barcelona (España) Tel. (+34) V06-02/ ,12310,12340,12350,12710,