Natural Dyed Indigo Silk

Transcription

1 40) ) KKU Sci J 40) ) Natural Dyed Indigo Silk indican leuco form white zinc lime vat anuratkramblue@gmailcom 47000

2 44 KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number Review ABSTRACT Indigo blue can be extracted from many tropical plants It is insoluble pigment in water Before dyeing, the must be base-oxidized to leuco form ) which is colorless and dissolves in water The process was reduced by reducing agents under alkaline condition For industry process, sodium dithionite dissolve in sodium hydroxide were used as using potassium nicklecyanide as catalyst under nitrogen condition, which was satisfying outcome Zinc lime vat is one of preparing Indigo blue, zinc powder, lime and methanol were reduced bath with lower temperature than 60 C However, repeating of dye process can be decomposed the yarn The process of Indigo blue fermentation was used ash lye and need microorganism for equilibrium, this process used among Japanese, Korean, Laotian and Thai wisdom Indigo white is the better for textile dyeing such as cotton Indigo gave the bluish to dark blue color on the cotton, whereas the affinity of for dyes is weaker for third of cotton Several time in dyeing process can be denature protein of silk Fabrics of silk are less resistance under alkaline condition comparing to cotton According to chemical structure of Indigo white, the numbers of hydrogen bond between Indigo white and cellulose of cotton are higher than Indigo white and protein of silk That result for silk obtains less blue in the natural dye So the improvement of vat substance to mix with pigment in order to reduce the pigment particles together in the formation of the lowest alkaline and adding up some essential compound to extend the hydrogen bond between Indigo white and silk : Keywords: Indigo dyed silk cloth, Natural, Indigo dyed cotton cloth

3 45 1 ) Indigofera tin) mol/l max = max Leguminosae tom java) khaam) cham nila khraam) trom = 540 nm nil 588 nm Zollinger, nm max = 606 nm) max = Polygonaceae Chinese ) Japanese ), 530) Lim, 005 Acanthaceae Assam ), 55) Cruciferae 199) woad AVon Baeyer Prosea Bogor, R

4 46 KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number Review 1 : Jenny Balfour Paul, 1998) : : R : : : indican) glucosidase) Yoshigo et al, 1997) indoxyl) - ) Indigo blue

5 47 ) CaO ph 545), 544 leuco white 5 form ph white 1- Kim, 1998) Yoshiko et al, 1999 zinc lime vat 3, Bacillus alkaliphylus, 530) zinc lime vat blue 4 NaSO4/Na NaBH4 Meksi et al, 007)

6 Review KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number 48 H N + HO HO N B - glucosidase Glucose O H N N O HO O H Indoxyl HO Indican CH + CH O HO H O Reduction N O H O N H Indigo blue Indigo white 3 4 zinc lime vat 3 5 white 3 N-H - glucosyl) 6,

7 49 C=O :

8 430 KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number Review 7 8 : Son et al 005) 543) , :136:

9 Bombycidae - fibroin sericin , , 530) 10 : Gly-Ala) ṉ C=O N-H Rgroup - -pleated sheet helix anti-parallel parallel 11

10 43 KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number Review 11 :, 54) N-H C=O N-H C=O H) Ph-) CH 3 ) -CH -) CH C=O N-H back bone) N-H C=O white 1

11 433 1 Indigo white white 3, 55

12 Review KKU Science Journal Volume 40 Number ) ) 3) 4) 55) 5 55) : 55 : 543) : : ) 530) : Bacillus alkaliphylus 35-38, 191

13 ) : 545) 545 : Lim, H K, Chung E J, Kim, J C, Choi, G J, Jang, K S, Chung, Y R, et al 005) Characterization of a Forest Soil Metagenome Clone That Confers Indirubin and Indigo Production on Applied and Environmental Microbiology 71): Paul, J B 1998) Indigo London: British Museum Press Kim, J-H, 1998) Traditional Dyeing Process with Natural Indigo in Korea Revival NaturalIndigo dye Sept 0-9 Department of Industrial Promotion Ministry of Industry 19 Meksi, N, Kechida, M and Mhenni, F 007) Borohydride process: Effect of some experimental conditions on Chemical engineering journal 131: Bogor, P 199) Dye and tannin producing plants Plant Resources of South East Asia No3 P RHMJ Lemmens and N Wulijani-Soetjipto Editors) Yoshiko Minami, et al 1997) - Glucosidase in the Indigo plant: Intracellular Localization and Tissue Specific Expression in Leaves Plant Cell Physiol 389) : Yoshiko, I W, Rice, M K and Barton, J 1999) Shibori: The Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing Tokyo: Kodansha International Young A Son, et al 005) Indigo adsorption properties to polyester fibers of different levels of fineness Dyes and pigments ) Zollinger Heinrich 1991) Color Chemistry nd New York: VCH Publishers, Inc bionp1_molecules_glucideshtm