Cosmetic Raw Material Presentation SUNJIN. RoundProtection - SUNSIL TZ in 50AS - UV capsule SUNJIN CHEMICAL R&D CENTER

Transcription

1 Cosmetic Raw Material Presentation RoundProtection - SUNSIL TZ in 50AS - UV capsule CHEMICAL R&D CENTER

2 September 2006 Overview: High SPF Trend Overview Makeup claiming varying SPF levels is sold all over the world It has long been desirable however, particularly in Asia, to have foundation with a high SPF desirable However, typically foundations come in the form of Pressed powders, which are difficult make cosmetically acceptable with a high SPF The levels of ultrafine titanium dioxide required for high SPF values result in a product that is, among others, too dry Adding organic sunscreen agents to pressed powder compositions creates a product exhibiting a cosmetically undesirable glaze Moreover it s much more difficult to make a high UVA protection makeup than a high SPF because of limited availability of organic UV filters to make a high PA, because inorganic UV filters such as TiO 2 or Zinc Oxide are required to use, which greatly enhances chalkiness, grittiness of the makeup How to achieve make up with High SPF & High PA while not hurting sensory feeling? A Korean pressed powder With SPF 32 & PA++ Actives TiO2 ZnO OMC BEMT BEMT: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Tinosorb S Estee Lauder Cyber White Silky Bright Powder Foundation SPF 20/PA++

3 September 2006 RoundProtection: UV capsule, TZin50AS, Filler Talc Sericite/Mica BaSO4 Sensorial Silica PMMA Urethane Nylon12 Semi-Spherical TiO2: UV capsule Binder/Media Functional UV protect Visual effect Absorption Delivery Color White pigment Color pigment Pearlescent Glitters TiO2, ZnO & Silica composite: TZin50AS

4 SUNSIL-TZ in 50AS, triple composite of Silica, TiO 2 and ZnO SUNSIL TZin50AS; Hydrophobic alkyl silane surface treated AS coating Inorganic UV-filter (11.6%) Avg. SPF SPF/ g Sunclear-T Sunclear-Z ZnO External SiO2 coating Sunsil-ZnO-AS SUNZNO-NAS TiO2 SiO2 bead Zinc Oxide(T) Zinc Oxide(B) Unit SPF is lower than UV capsule Composition SiO2: 45-67% TiO2: 16-25% ZnO: % Alkyl Silane: 6.0 Max. Sunsil-TZin50-AS Sunsil-Tin Sunsil-Tin UV-capsule Nano TiO2(T) Organic(8.7%) But sensorial feeling is much better Parsol Parsol MCX Benzophenone Tinsorb-M September 2006

5 September 2006 UV capsule nm TiO 2 Silica sol coating TiO Alkyl 2 Silane surface treatment granulization TiO 2 TiO TiO TiO TiO2 TiO TiO 2 2TiO2 TiO 2 TiO 2 TiO 2 TiO TiO TiO TiO 2 UV capsule 60 2~5μm Composition TiO 2 57% SiO 2 38% AS 5% High SPF Broad UVA & UVB protection Good Touch & Feeling Some degree of opacity substitute pigmentary TiO2 Crystal Size 20nm Particle Size 2~5 μm Loss on drying 4%

6 September 2006 TiO2 size comparison 200nm, pigmentary TiO2 UV capsule 60 15nm, microfine TiO2

7 UV Capsule 60: High SPF Tested Formulation(W/Si) Ingredients % INCI Name water 45.1 water DPG 4.6 dipropylene glycol 1,3-BG 5.8 butylene glycol Magnesium sulfate September magnesium sulfate Methyl paraben 0.2 methyl paraben Germall imidazolidinyl urea D-pantenol 0.6 panthenol Kak-HL 3.5 hexyl laurate KF cyclomethicone DC KSG UV filters 11.6 dimethicone and dimethicone cross polymer dimethicone vinyldimethicone cross polymer and dimethicone Sunsil-130SC 0.6 silica and dimethicone SunPMMA 0.6 polymethyl Methacrylate KF PEG-10 dimethicone Abil EM cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone Benton quaternium-18 hectorite Propyl paraben 0.1 propyl paraben Fragrance 0.3 fragrance Test Result Inorganic UV-filter (11.6%) Avg. SPF SPF/ g Sunclear-T Sunclear-Z Sunsil-ZnO-AS SUNZNO-NAS Zinc Oxide(T) Zinc Oxide(B) Sunsil-TZin50-AS Sunsil-Tin Sunsil-Tin UV-capsule Nano TiO2(T) Organic(8.7%) Parsol Parsol MCX Benzophenone Tinsorb-M Unit SPF: 1.4/g higher than ultrafine Zinc Oxides from market Although not as high as ultrafine TiO2 from Tayca

8 September 2006 UV Capsule 60: Broad UV protection Only UV capsule 10% TiO2 5.2% + Zinc Oxide 10% Ideal for a high SPF & PA makeup, especially desirable in Asian market

9 Photo stability of UV capsule 60 UV capsule 60 P M A Test condition: TiO 2 mixed with Vaseline, after 3 days indoors UV capsule 60 shows much better photo-stability compared to other nano size TiO 2 Samples (left) showed relatively good photo-stability among commercial TiO 2 These have common surface treatment, i.e., either silica or alkyl silane, which are known as the best coating agents UV capsule 60 is coated with both silica and alkyl silane up to 40% to guarantee perfect compatibility and photo-stability UV Capsule60 has equal SPF boosting effect compared to other nano TiO 2 September 2006

10 September 2006 Avobenzone/BMDBM compatibility Aluminum oxide is one of the most common coating material for TiO2 BMDBM forms a complex with Al 3+ salts from TiO2 coatings The amount of BMDBM decreases Weakening of the UVA protection

11 Avobenzone/BMDBM compatibility O/W Perfect W/O Excellent Kemira M170 Alumina, Dimethicone 1 Alumina, Triethoxycaprylylsilane 2. UVCapsule 60 Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane 3. Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane 4. Silica, Methicone 5. Alumina, Sodium Hexametaphsophate, PVP 6. Aluminum Hydroxide, Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer 7. Hydrated Silica, Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer, Aluminum Hydroxide 8. Triethoxycaprylylsilane W/O Foirmula INCI A D-Water To 100 P-M 0.2 NaCl 1 BG 5 B Abil EM 90 2 Dub DIS 10 Dub VCI Bees Wax 1 Parsol MCX 5 Parsol C TiO2 8 Finsolv TPP 5.6 Emalex ss5050k 0.4 D Fragrance 0.2 V-E Acetate 0.1 September 2006

12 W/O Formula Test Result BMDBM Lot Start End Temp Dosage Remain 냉장대비 실온대비 # # # UVCapsule RT # RT # RT # RT # # # RT