Mirasil Alkyl Silicones

Transcription

1 , CETYL DM, STEARYL DM

2 , CETYL DM, STEARYL DM Alkyl functionalized silicones have always been important cosmetic additives. Bluestar Silicones offers three essential products in this category -, CETYL DM, and STEARYL DM - which have drastically different physical properties and benefits for beauty care. The physical characteristics comparisons are included in Table 1. These products are the most versatile as cosmetic additives among organo-modified silicones as they are high performance ingredients providing unique properties as well as sensory enhancements. In addition, they are easy to use due to their broad compatibilities with silicones and non-silicone ingredients. When these ingredients are combined with plant derived cosmetic additives, they boost skin feel and spreadability to meet rising consumer expectations. Properties CETYL DM STEARYL DM INCI name Caprylyl Methicone Cetyl Dimethicone Stearyl Dimethicone Appearance Clear liquid Clear liquid Soft wax Color Colorless to light yellow Colorless to light yellow White to light yellow Flash point, C ( F) >1 (>212) >93 (>199) - Refractive index at 25 C (77 F) 1,413 1, Specific gravity at 25 C (77 F),84,9 - Viscosity at 25 C (77 F), mm 2 /s (at 4 C (14 F)) Non-volatile content, % NA-volatile ingredient >84 >99 Cyclotetrasiloxane content, % <.1 <.1 <.1 Melting point, C ( F) NA NA 3(86)-32(9) Water solubility Not soluble Not soluble Not soluble Table 1. Physical property comparisons of 2

3 Sensory Profiles provides many choices for formulators to create products with multiple sensory dimensions. The common and dominant tactile properties of, CETYL DM, and STEARYL DM are high spreadability and non-tacky feel (Figure 1). Each product possesses additional unique sensory attributes which include: -shows the highest fluid-like feel and smoothness and the lowest residual after feel; CETYL DM-provides the highest slip; STEARYL DM-offers the highest spreadability. STEARYL DM is a soft wax and it readily melts and spreads on skin with light shear; therefore, this high spreadability attribute is unique. No residue Stickiness Fluid Spreadability Smoothness Freshness Mirasil Caprylyl TSO Mirasil Cetyl DM Mirasil Stearyl DM Type of material Alcohol CETYL DM Mirasils STEARYL DM Ethanol S I I Testing performed according to EBItouch Greasiness Slipperiness Figure 1. Sensory profiles of Fatty Alcohols Octyldodecanol S S S Cetyl Alcohol S S S Stearyl Alcohol S S S Oils Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil S I S Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil S S S Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil S I S Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil S I S Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil I I I Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil S S S Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil S I S Waxes Beeswax S S S Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax S I I Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax I I I Hydrogenated Microcrystalline Wax S S S Solubility Comparison The broad solubility characteristics of are shown in Table 2. These products are compatible with vegetable oils, waxes, and nonsilicone emollients. The ranking of organic compatibility profile from high to low is: > STEARYL DM CETYL DM Table 2. Solubility comparisons of The tested ratio was 5% of product and 5% of test material. S= Soluble, I= Insoluble 3

4 Spreadability Comparison The spreading characteristic is one of the most important attributes in choosing the right emollients to create personal care products. Two properties were determined to demonstrate this property- spreading area and surface tension. The spreading area is determined by molecular weight, chemical structure, type, and content of functionalities. When comparing similar viscosity silicones, CM5 has shown the highest spreading area followed by and then DM 5cSt whereas CETYL DM has shown lower spreading area than DM 35cSt. The spreading area of CETYL DM was similar to Argan oil (Figure 2). Spreading diameter after 2 mins (mm) Figure 2. Spreading area comparison among similar viscosity silicones and non-silicones emollients 1. Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 2. CETYL DM 3. DM, 35cSt 4. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 5. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6. C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 7. DM, 5cSt CM5 Testing condition: 5 µl of tested emollients were applied on in-vitro skin and were measured for spreading diameter (mm) after 2 min. 5% / 5% Soybean Oil Soybean Oil 5% / 5% Mineral OiL Mineral Oil MIRASIL Surface Tension (mn/m) Figure 3. Surface tension of MIRASIL and its combinations Enhanced Spreading by is an effective spreading aid for natural oils and hydrocarbons due to the unique combination of octyl substitution and trisiloxane backbone (Figure 3). The addition of reduces the surface tension which increases the spreading efficiency of soybean oil and mineral oil. 4

5 Pigment Wetting Capability of MIRASIL CETYL DM MIRASIL CETYL DM may be used as a wetting agent for pigments in color cosmetics and sunscreens (Figure 4). This product clearly demonstrates lower wet point and flow point when combined with TiO2. Mineral Oil Castor Oil MIRASIL CM5 MIRASIL MIRASIL CETYL DM Wet Point Flow Point Amount of cosmetic fluids added (g)/1g TiO 2 Figure 4. Pigment wetting properties of MIRASIL and MIRASIL CETYL DM Sand Repellency of MIRASIL STEARYL DM MIRASIL STEARYL DM is an excellent ingredient to formulate sand repellent sunscreens due to its inherent release property (Figure 5). The sand repellency is clearly higher, 36% sand repellency improvement, in a sunscreen containing MIRASIL STEARYL DM. Testing condition: A 6 micron coating thickness of a water in oil sunscreen with 2% MIRASIL STEARYL DM was applied to black leather. It was air dried for 5 minutes. Then 3 grams of sand were added on the sunscreen film. After that, the coated leather was tapped to remove the sand. The percentage of sand repellency was determined by comparing the weights of non-sticking sand to sunscreens with and without MIRASIL STEARYL DM. Sunscreen without MIRASIL STEARYL DM Sunscreen with 2,% MIRASIL STEARYL DM Figure 5. Sand repellency improvement by MIRASIL STEARYL DM 5

6 Comparison of MIRASIL and MIRASIL CM5 MIRASIL CM5 is a cyclic polydimethyl siloxane, whereas MIRASIL is an octyl pendant trisiloxane. Even though they have completely different chemical structures, both products show some similar physical properties such as viscosity, compatibility profile, and initial skin feel. Conversely, there are three distinct differences between these products-volatility, wetting aid, and skin after feel. MIRASIL is a semi-volatile silicone and this property prolongs its desirable attributes, which makes this molecule highly valuable in cosmetic products (Figure 6). It has an excellent spreading aid property for non-polar ingredients without any polyalkylene oxide substitution (Figure 3). Additionally, MIRASIL provides superior soft and smooth feel and minimized tackiness while it maintains similar oiliness as compared to MIRASIL CM5 in a water in oil hand cream (Figure 7). Given its physical properties with enhanced cosmetic attributes, MIRASIL is an attractive alternative to cyclopentasiloxane in skin care and color cosmetics. Amount remaining (%) Time (min) MIRASIL CM5 MIRASIL DM, 5cSt MIRASIL Water Isododecane Testing condition: 2g of samples exposed to 4 C for 8 hrs Figure 6. Volatility comparison among MIRASIL, MIRASIL CM5 and other fluids Ingredients CM5 Wt.% CARYLYL TSO Wt.% Phase A Isopropyl Myristate 2 2 Cetyl Dimethicone (MIRASIL CETYL DM) 4 4 Cetyl PEG/PPG-1/1 Dimethicone (MIRASIL BALANCE) 2 2 Cyclopentasiloxane (MIRASIL CM5) 11 - Caprylyl Methicone (MIRASIL ) - 11 Phase B Deionized Water Glycerin 1 1 Sodium Citrate.5.5 Sodium Benzoate.3.3 Fragrance q.s. q.s. TOTAL 1 1 Figure 7. After feel sensory comparison between hand creams with MIRASIL and MIRASIL CM5. (formulations shown on the left) 6

7 Elkem Silicones is one of the world s leading fully integrated silicone manufacturers with applications and research laboratories, production sites and sales offices located around the globe. At Elkem Silicones, we re more than just high quality silicone products and associated services. We are a team of professionals located around the globe ready to provide you with the service and performance you deserve with a personal touch. From technical support to customized formulations and regulatory support, Elkem Silicones has the people in place when and where you need them, committed to help you deliver your potential. Because we care! The information contained in this document is given in good faith based on our current knowledge. It is only an indication and is in no way binding, particularly as regards infringement of or prejudice to third party rights through the use of our products. Elkem Silicones guarantees that its products comply with its sales specifications. This information must on no account be used as a substitute for necessary prior tests which alone can ensure that a product is suitable for given use. Determination of the suitability of product for the uses and applications contemplated by users and others shall be the sole responsibility of users. Users are responsible for ensuring compliance with local legislation and for obtaining the necessary certifications and authorizations. Users are requested to check that they are in possession of the latest version of this document and Elkem Silicones is at their disposal to supply any additional information. For detailed commercial contacts please visit our website :