functional ingredients

Transcription

1 functional ingredients 1

2 redefine natural personal care It s what we do As a formulator or manufacturer, you know that cosmetic innovation is not only about identifying new sources, ingredients or product offerings. It is also about finding creative solutions to meet the ever-evolving needs of consumers, society and regulators. So, if you are looking to develop more natural, sustainable and eco-friendly formulations that deliver superior functionality and enhanced aesthetics, then we can help. Push the boundaries of possibilities through technologically advanced natural emollients. It s what we challenge you to do Use our value-adding solutions to develop innovative and superior quality formulations. It s what we can do together Change perceptions of natural by delivering sustainable performance without compromise. Pioneering innovations in lipid technology At AAK Personal Care we have over 30 years experience in developing and manufacturing high-performance, value-adding natural-based emollients for the global beauty and personal care industry. Our specialist knowledge and technological expertise are unparalleled, with our name a byword for excellence. Contents Innovations with shea 4 Bioactives 6 Emollients 8 Structuring agents 12 Emulsifiers & Surfactants 13 AAK ACADEMY 14 Approvals and Certifications 14 Our portfolio of sustainably sourced innovations pushes the boundaries of possibilities. Enabling the creation of safe, stable, sophisticated formulations that offer a new take on the meaning of natural. Our commitment to the planet All our products originate from natural, renewable sources and we are pledged to minimising our carbon footprint, lowering waste and emissions and reducing consumption of energy and water. In acknowledgement of our achievements in these areas we have been granted the EcoVadis Gold Recognition Level. Support and knowledge sharing Our team is always on hand for customised training, technical assistance and claims substantiation. But we don t stop there. We can also help with all aspects of the creative process, including inspiration, ideation and implementation. We re here for you. Changing perceptions of natural The demand for cosmetics that offer additional environmental and social benefits is on the rise. But today s beauty consumers are not prepared to compromise on product performance in the process. 3

3 innovations with shea Lipex SheaTris Bioactive shea triterpene concentrate Lipex L sens Highly polar semi-solid shea gel Lipex SheaSoft Soft and creamy semi-solid shea butter SOLID emollients ACTIVES LIQUID emollients Lipex SheaLight Eco-designed liquid shea ester Lipex SheaLiquid TR Fully traceable semi-liquid shea oil Lipex SheaClear Clear liquid shea oil Making a positive difference Our shea-based innovations open up new opportunities not only for you as a cosmetic formulator, but also for the estimated 16 million women in West Africa who rely on shea for an income. Increasing demand from cosmetic manufacturers is helping to build a bigger, better shea industry and halt rural-urban migration in the region. Generating more earnings to empower the shea-collecting women, improving local livelihoods and securing supplies for the future. A win-win outcome all round. Creating value and sustainability through direct sourcing Streamlined supply chains give local women more negotiating power, a higher income and greater independence. The AAK Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing programme was introduced in Burkina Faso in 2009 and has recently been extended to Ghana. Based on fair trade principles, including access to pre-financing, education and logistical support, the programme involves over 115,000 women and continues to grow Ecovia Intelligence named AAK as the 2017 winner of the Sustainability Pioneer Award, in recognition of our work in West Africa to promote the sustainable sourcing of shea, via the Kolo Nafaso direct sourcing programme. Lipex Shea High stability semi-solid shea butter Lipex 205 High stabillity liquid shea oil At AAK we have pioneered new techniques to optimise the physical and sensory characteristics of shea and allow increased functional use across the full spectrum of cosmetic applications. From solid and semi-solid forms offering high temperature stability, low odour and improved colour, to liquid versions that eliminate crystallisation and enable clear, sprayable formulations. Lipex 102 Solid refined shea butter SOLID CRUDE SHEA BUTTER empowering women improving livelihoods securing the future SHEA KERNELS 4 5

4 bioactives naturally-derived bioactive lipids bioactive studies When it comes to protecting skin against environmental stress and premature ageing, our naturallyderived bioactives are proven to pack a powerful punch. With documented anti-inflammatory and collagen protecting properties, our natural based Lipex bioactives are effective even in low concentrations. They are ideally suited for antiageing and anti-pollution cosmetic formulations, as well as those targeting sensitive skin. Bioactives Harnessing the bioactivity of minor lipids Using our patented technology, we have been able to utilise the inherent bioactivity of the minor lipids found in sustainable sources of canola oil and shea butter. Our bioactive ingredients feature high concentrations of antioxidative natural tocopherols (Vitamin E), anti-inflammatory phytosterols and their esters, as well as triterpene esters, all of which are renowned for their skin protecting and revitalising properties. Well-documented functionality and skin tolerance Lipex bioactives are well-characterised lipophilic ingredients for safe use within beauty and personal care applications. Good skin tolerance with documented non-irritancy makes them well suited for premium facial skin care, dermo-cosmetics and applications for sensitive skin. The high stability profile further allows for specialised colour cosmetic applications. Lipex SheaTris has been shown to: Strengthen the skin barrier function to improve moisture retention and protect against environmental aggressors Protect skin against collagen degrading enzymes Reduce the activity of pro-inflammatory cytokines linked to premature ageing Reduced activity (%) Lipex SheaTris protects skin collagen structures and fights premature skin ageing Reduction of collagenase activity Average decrease (%) MMP-3 gene expression Documented Functionality Placebo cream Cream with 0.5% Lipex SheaTris Lipex SheaTris at 0.1% Lipex SheaTris at 0.05% Lipex SheaTris Parkii Butter Extract Barrier strengthening (in vitro, ex vivo) Collagen protecting (in vitro, ex vivo) Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Shea butter triterpene ester concentrate. Long-term protection against environmental stress and premature ageing. Triterpene ester content 50 65%. 0,5 1% Lipex Cellect is rich in phytosterol esters and has been shown to reduce the release of inflammatory mediators and help soothe and calm irritated skin. Anti-inflammatory activity of Lipex Cellect Lipex Cellect Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides Anti-inflammatory (in vitro) Canola based phytosterol concentrate. Helps to supplement skin lipids. Protects against premature ageing. Phytosterol ester content 45%. 0,5 2% IL 1-α (pg/ml) Control (+PMA)* IL 1-α cytokine release by reconstructed epidermis Control (-PMA) Decamethazone** (+PMA) Lipex Cellect (25%) in Akosun (+PMA) * Phorbol myristate acetate, pro-inflammatory agent (5μg/ml) added to culture medium ** Reference compound (0.1 μm) 6 7

5 emollients Bioactive Emollients Science and innovation Our decades of experience within lipid technology have enabled us to develop advanced, highperformance naturally derived emollients with excellent stability and long shelf life. This expertise is evidenced by our comprehensive list of butters, gels, oils and esters, all offering unique features, advantages and benefits to help you overcome specific formulation challenges, meet new trends and answer ever-changing consumer needs. The best of nature Sourced from shea, illipe, canola, cocoa, mango and more, each of our ingredients is carefully selected, processed, and in some cases combined, to obtain the exact chemical profile needed to optimise the efficacy, functionality and sensory appeal of your final formulations. (Origin) Lipex PreAct (Canola) Performance Emollients (Origin) Softening Photo Protecting Canola Oil Canola oil with unique composition of natural tocopherols (vitamin E) and phytosterols. Documented protection of skin proteins and lipids against photo oxidation and free radicals. Softening Moisturising Antiinflammatory Sensory improver Texture Solids NEW! Lipex SMP Highly versatile, oxidativestable, solid emollient with a sharp melting profile for achieving unique texture transformations Lipex CocoaSoft (Cocoa) Lipex IllipeSoft (Illipe) Lipex SMP Lipex 102 Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter Parkii Butter Cocoa butter with optimised melting profile. Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional cocoa butter. Illipe butter with optimised melting profile. Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional illipe butter. Solid emollient rapidly melting at body temperature inducing a cooling effect. Spreads easily on the skin with a soft-dry after feel. Skin care, makeup (pencils). Refined and deodorised shea butter. Low colour and odour. 1 30% 1 2% Lipex 106 (Illipe) Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter Refined and deodorised illipe butter of the Dayaks of Borneo. Low colour and odour. 1 2% New Lipex SMP Lipex SMP is a highly versatile, oxidative-stable texturiser with a sharp melting profile and excellent crystallinity. It combines a silkysmooth richness with a soft-dry skin feel to offer unique textures transformations in both face and body care formulations. Solid at room temperature, it converts to a low viscosity liquid at body temperature with the potential to provide a cooling sensation when melting. Suitable for both emulsion and anhydrous-based systems, Lipex SMP is an excellent solid emollient for aerated textured products. Its compatibility with natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils and esters, makes it an efficient texturiser for cosmetic pencils, sticks and crayons. Semi-solids Lipex SheaSoft Lipex Shea Parkii Butter Parkii Butter Soft semi-solid shea butter. Documented moisturisation and skin barrier recovery. Improved heat stability and crystallisation properties versus traditional shea butters. Suitable for high concentrations and anhydrous formulations. Improved shea butter. Quick crystallisation for long-term texture stabililty. Skin care and hair care. 2 15% 2 15% 8 9

6 (Origin) Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Semi-solids Lipex L sens (Soybean/Shea) Soybean Glycerides (and) Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables Polar vegetable gel. Documented moisturisation. Esters Lipex Shea W Shea Butter Cetyl Esters Solid shea butter wax ester. Dry and velvety skin feel. Optimised for makeup and anhydrous formulations. Akosoft 36 (Coco-glycerides) Liquids Lipex SheaClear Coco-glycerides Parkii Oil Stable semi-solid emollient based on cocoglycerides. Liquid shea oil for clear formulations and cold processing. Suitable for all types of moisturising and softening body oils, face oils and hair oils. A mild ingredient for baby oils and lotions. 2 80% Lipex Shea WM Lipex SheaLight Shea Butter Oleyl Esters Shea Butter Ethyl Esters Liquid shea butter ester. Low viscosity and low spreadability. Quick absorption and velvety skin feel. Eco-designed liquid shea butter ester. Low viscosity. Light and silky soft skin feel. Excellent carrier for organic UV filters and pigments. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care, hair care, sun care and makeup. Lipex 205 Parkii Butter (or) Parkii Oil Liquid shea butter with enriched content of triterpene esters and vitamin F. Contributes to good skin health. High Stability Base Emollients Lipex SheaLiquid TR Lipex Omega 3/6 (Gold of Pleasure) Lipex 109 S (Cottonseed) Parkii Butter (or) Parkii Oil Olus Oil (and) Camelina Sativa Seed Oil Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil Liquid shea butter from a traceable supply chain with enriched content of triterpene esters and vitamin F. Contributes to good skin health. Stable delivery system with optimised balance of omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids (3:1) from Gold of Pleasure oil. Essential omega fatty acids for restoring skin health. Suitable for cold processing. Cottonseed oil stabilised with an optimised natural antioxidant system. Rich in omega-6 fatty acids. Skin care and hair care. 2 3% Semi-solids Akogel Akogel Plus Softening Moisturising Sensory improver Texture Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like consistency. Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110 C). Semi-solid vegetable gel with paste-like consistency. Long shelf life (OSI >100h, 110 C). Lipex 120 (Canola) Lipex 203 (Mango) Canola Oil Mangifera Indica Seed Oil Canola oil stabilised with an optimised natural antioxidant system. Rich in omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9 fatty acids. A golden oil from the seeds of the mango fruit. 2 3% 2 3% Liquids Lipex Bassol C High Oleic Brassica Oil Akosun Olus Oil (or) Canola Oil Brassica Campestris Seed Oil Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil Renewable clear high stability oil (OSI 40h, 110 C). Alternative to mineral/synthetic emollients and vegetable oils with short shelf life. Suitable for cold processing. Skin care and hair care. Canola oil with prolonged shelf life (OSI 16hours, 110 C). Rich in omega-9 and omega-6 fatty acids. Cold clear high oleic (omega-9) sunflower seed oil. Prolonged shelf life (OSI 20h, 110 C) compared to traditional sunflower seed oil

7 structuring agents emulsifiers & surfactants Our structuring agents offer good crystallisation behaviour and a choice of melting profiles to enable you to achieve the desired texture and consistency for your skin care and colour cosmetic applications. Based on vegetable fats, these triglyceride ingredients are designed to show good compatibility with other ingredients when structuring both emulsion and anhydrous formulations and are particularly suitable for cosmetic sticks and pencils. The composition of the emollient and emulsifier you choose will always influence the viscosity, stability and skin feel of your cosmetic formulation. Our Akoline range of vegetable derived emulsifiers comprises high quality ingredients renowned for their mildness. Well suited for natural skin care, they provide beautifully soft and elegant formulations. When creating shampoos, liquid soaps, shower gels and other cleansing products, our water-soluble shea butter helps to reduce potential eye and skin irritation typical of other surfactants. With good foaming properties and viscosity control, it is gentle enough to use in baby care products and formulations designed for sensitive skins. Akofine R Akofine P Lipex BC Texture Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point (mp C) and good thermal stability. Stabilises oil based dispersions and increases texture in anhydrous and emulsion formulations. Structurising vegetable triglyceride. High melting point (mp C). Stabilises structure and increases temperature resistance in anhydrous formulations. Structurising triglyceride base for pencils and stick formulations. Sharp melting point at body temperature (mp C). 1 5% 1 5% Akoline MCM Akoline GC Akoline SL Akoline LC Akoline PG7 Akoline PGPR Lipex 102 E75 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides Vegetable Glycerides Citrate Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides Emulsifiers Viscosity enhancer Skin conditioner Solubiliser Medium chain mono-/diglyceride with high solubilisation capacity. Co-emulsifier for o/w emulsions. Suitable for microemulsion formulations. (HLB 8 9). Polar anionic/non-ionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 11). Releases citric acid giving improved skin firmness and smoothness. Highly polar anionic o/w emulsifier. (HLB 17). Stabilises liquid crystals. Releases lactic acid giving improved skin firmness and smoothness. Anionic emulsifier for o/w creams and lotions. (HLB 12). Can be used in cold processing. Non-ionic o/w emulsifier giving shiny emulsions. Stabilises liquid crystals. (HLB 7). An efficient non-ionic w/o emulsifier and dispersion stabiliser. (HLB 3 4). Water-soluble shea butter. Mild non-ionic surfactant. Improves viscosity and decreases irritancy in rinse-off hair and body care formulations. 1 3% 1 4% 0,2 1% 1 3% 1 3% 12 13

8 AAK ACADEMY the knowledge centre for lipid technology Approvals & Certifications H HALAL TAYYIB A0097 AS Traceable Bioactives Topics Skin health Lipid chemistry Sustainable sourcing and processing Optimising functionality and skin feel Crystallisation and rheology And so much more... There are a number of public and private standards governing natural cosmetics and we strive to provide ingredients that not only fulfil demands for functionality, but also provide compliance for approval by the various certifying bodies. Use the table on the right as a guide when selecting ingredients that are approved and/or certified according to specific standards. Please note that all our AAK Personal Care ingredients based on palm oil are sustainably sourced and certified. For official certificates, letters of approval and status updates, please contact AAK Personal Care. Lipex SheaTris Emollients Akogel Akogel Plus Akosoft 36 Akosun Lipex Bassol C Lipex 102 Lipex 106 Lipex 109 S Lipex 120 Lipex 205 Lipex CocoaSoft Lipex IllipeSoft Lipex L sens Lipex Omega 3/6 Lipex PreAct Lipex Shea Lipex Shea W Lipex Shea WM Lipex SheaLight Lipex SheaSoft Lipex SheaLiquid TR Lipex SheaClear Lipex SMP High Oleic Brassica Oil * Structuring Agents At AAK, we apply our experience and expertise to optimise the functionality of renewable, vegetable derived lipids. The AAK Academy is all about sharing our insights and know-how to make you a master in technical application, because the more you know about lipid technology, the easier it is to find the best solution for your formulation. As a customer of AAK Personal Care you have unique access to AAK s team of lipid experts through the AAK Academy. Attending our courses enables product developers and formulators to learn more about the specialised technology and paves the way for open and constructive dialogue around future development opportunities. For full details, please contact AAK Personal Care Akofine R Akofine P Lipex BC Emulsifiers Akoline GC Akoline LC Akoline MCM Akoline PG7 Akoline PGPR Akoline SL * pending 14 15

9 Version 1: 2018 AAK Sweden AB AAK Personal Care SE Karlshamn Sweden Phone AAK USA Inc. 499 Thornall St., 5th Floor Edison, NJ USA Phone AAK China Ltd. 6F, Building 6, #3601 Dongfang Road, Shanghai China Phone For contact information to our international distributors please visit aakpersonalcare.com