Lipids, a natural raw material at the heart of cosmetics innovation. Carine ALFOS Innovation Manager at ITERG

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Myron Ellis
6 years ago
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1 Lipids, a natural raw material at the heart of cosmetics innovation Carine ALFOS Innovation Manager at ITERG c.alfos@iterg.com

.. (pulp or kernel) Germs : wheat, corn Pips : Grape and blackcurrant Others : leaves (tea, laurel.

2 DIFFERENT ORIGINS OF LIPIDS Vegetal : different botanical origins and locations Seeds : sunflower, rapeseeds, soya Fruits : olive, palm, copra, avocado, walnut, hazel, almond... (pulp or kernel) Germs : wheat, corn Pips : Grape and blackcurrant Others : leaves (tea, laurel..), roots, pollen... Micro organisms prokaryotic origins (bacteria) OR eukaryotes (algae & microalgae, fungi, yeasts) 2 webinaire cosmétique - 27/05/16

3 LIPIDS : PANORAMIC COMPOSITION Omega 3, 6, 9, hydroxy, clycloprpopenic, MCT, CLA. Aliphatic - Fatty alcool - Hydrocarbons - Waxes Triglycerides 90-95% Fatty acids 95-99% 3-5% Glycerol Unsaponifiable 0,1 à 3% Terpenic - Sterols - Tocopherols - Squalene - Terpenic alcool - Carotenes LIPIDS 1-5% Natural 0,1-0,2% Polar lipids - Phospholipides - Sphyngolipids - Glycolipids 1-5% Minors constituent Degradation - Hydrolysis - Oxidation - Thermical degradation Indesirables - Water - Impurities - Proteins - Metals ppb-ppm Contaminants - Metals - Phytosanitary - Dioxins - PAH - Solvents

FROM STRONG SIMILARITIES CONSTITUENTS OF LIPIDS

are transfer systems CONSTITUENTS OF THE SKIN Fatty

4 FROM STRONG SIMILARITIES CONSTITUENTS OF LIPIDS Fatty acids, phytosterols, squalene, vitamin E... Lipids and skins have the same natural constituents Stratum corneum Cosmetic treatments are transfer systems CONSTITUENTS OF THE SKIN Fatty acids cholesterol, squalene, Vitamin E 4 webinaire cosmétique - 27/05/16

5 POLYINSATURATED FATTY ACIDS ώ 3,6,9 Omega 6 Membrane fluidity Barrier function of epidermis Omega 3 Reduction of erythema Major constituent of membrane phospholipids maintening the elasticity of epidermis Omega 9 Non essential biologically Good oxidative stability - emolience 5 - webinaire cosmétique - 27/05/16

6 UNSAPONIFIABLE squalene Vit E Anti-wrinkle Restructuring of the micro-relief Activation of the synthesis of cutaneous lipids Moisturizer Promotes the barrier function of the skin carotenoïdes Phenols waxes Karitene Anti-inflammatory : sterols, triterpenic alcools Anti oxydative activity VitE Radical scavengers pro-vita CoE Q webinaire cosmétique - 27/05/16

7 OLEOCHEMICAL DERIVATIVES : exemple Ethyl esters Isopropyl esters Butyl esters Isobutyl esters 2-ethylhexyl esters Cetyl esters Fatty acid esters EMOLLIENT TEXTURIZING Stearyl esters Myristyl esters Sorbitan esters Glycerol / diglycerol esters Phytosterol esters sucroesters. EMULSIFIER THIKENING TENSIOACTIVE LUBRICANT MOISTURIZING AGENT.Properties 7 -

8 MULTIFUNCTIONAL OILS : moisturizing, solar, hair protection... Feeding Softener Restructuring Protecting Soothing Regenerating Anti radical Anti aging Anti oxidant Moisturizer Barrier effect Emollient

COSMETICS Large distribution Safety, Stability

PEG, phenoxyethanol, phthalates, glycol ethers,

9 WHAT DO WE WANT? SUSTAINABILITY AND SAFETY CONVENTIONAL COSMETICS Large distribution Safety, Stability Price NATURAL COSMETICS Biological, fair, clean label, safety WITHOUT... mineral oil, parabens, GMO, formaldehyde, PEG, phenoxyethanol, phthalates, glycol ethers, silicone,... Marketing choice Refined vegetable oils innovation Targeted choice Virgin oils, biological, «exotic» 9 -

10 WHAT DO WE WANT? SUSTAINABILITY AND SAFETY innovation Extraction/Concentrates (cold, hot, maceration, ethanol, CO2 SC, aqueous, assisted by ultrasounds, microwave, enzymes ) Refining (chemical, physical, semi refining, deodorization, virgin ) Oleochemical derivatives (enzymatic processes, safety biomolecules.) Formulation (clean label ) Local «terroir»

11 WHAT DO WE WANT? SUSTAINABILITY AND SAFETY Yield Price biorefinery Color Odor Sensory Quality Efficiency Economic and societal drivers innovation 11 -

12 EXEMPLE : REFINING STEP Chemical Refining Raspberry Macadamia Semi Refining Tomato Safflower Cranberry Deodorization Shea Argan Prickly pear Inca inchi 12 - webinaire cosmétique - 27/05/16

13 EXEMPLE : BIOREFINERY OF PULM KERNEL «LOCAL TERROIR Made In Aquitaine» C R E A T E U R S D H U I L E S R A R E S Interesterification Stéarine de Karité Shea stearin < 300 µ µ µ Novel Food Huile d amandon de pruneau Virgin Plum Oil Beurre d amandon de pruneau Virgin Plum Oil butter en partenariat avec 13 - webinaire cosmétique - 27/05/16

Spreading Dry/Fat touch Penetration speed Cosmetic

14 WHAT DO WE WANT? EFFICIENCY 2 fonctionnalités principales pour les huiles végétales TEXTURE ACTIVITY IN THE CONTAINER Creamy, dispersion, shine ON THE SKIN Emollience Spreading Dry/Fat touch Penetration speed Cosmetic galenic AGPI w 3,6,9 hydroxy, cyclopropenic TCM Unsaponifiable Controlled release 14 - webinaire cosmétique - 27/05/16

15 WHAT DO WE WANT? EFFICIENCY MODELS Cell lines Primary cells Rebuilt epidermis Fibroblasts Keratinocytes Melanocytes. STUDIES / ACTIVITY Anti oxidant Anti radical Anti age Healing Collagen synthesis DNA protection

16 WHAT DO WE WANT? SAFETY & QUALITY TOLERANCE Mucous membrane Cutaneous Ocular.. QUALITY & SAFETY Analytical composition (nutriments, indesirables, contaminants, degradation produtcs, pathogenes,.)..

17 SO LET S DISCOVER LAST INNOVATIONS & RESEARCH ACTIVITIES IN THIS FIELD HAVE A NICE CONGRESS IN BORDEAUX SUSTAINABILITY EFFICIENCY SAFETY & QUALITY

Introduction to Lipid Chemistry

Introduction to Lipid Chemistry Benjamin Schwartz Ontario SCC Education Day September 18, 2018 Lipid knowledge for the personal care industry What is a Lipid? Lipids are fatty acids and their derivatives,