The A To Z Of Skincare Ingredients

Transcription

1 The A To Z Of Skincare Ingredients And How They Work On The Skin With A Focus On Melanogenesis Candace Noonan, LE November 2015 Candace Noonan is a Licensed Esthetician, True U Certified Educator and Master Trainer for Dermaconcepts, distributor of Environ Skin Care. Disclosure

2 The Evolution Of Skin 3 UV POMC Melanin Stimulating Hormone Pituitary gland The Process Of Melanogenesis

3 The Process Of Melanogenesis 5 The Melanocyte 6

4 The Melanocyte The Keratinocyte 8

5 The Keratinocyte The Melanocyte is damaged The Keratinocyte is damaged Dendrites shorten DNA damage pigment is inadvertently placed in stem cell cell to cell communication keratinocyte saturation pigment dumping uncontrolled pigment production stem cells bear imprinted pigment keratinocyte cannot stop the process pigment is trapped in Dermal-Epidermal Junction What Goes Wrong?

6 Vitamin A 11 Vitamin A Vitamin A Retinoids Carotenoids Acid Alcohol Ester (fat) Beta- Carotene Retinoic Acid Retinol Retinyl Palmitate Retinyl Acetate

7 The Process Of Melanogenesis Retinyl Palmitate (Vit. A) Retinyl Palmitate (Vit. A) Retinyl Palmitate (Vit. A) 13 Vitamin B3 Vitamin B B3 Niacinimide B5 Panthenol B12 Cyanocobalamin B7 Biotin 14

8 The Process Of Melanogenesis Niacinamide (Vit. B3) 15 Vitamin C Vitamin C Ascorbic Acid Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 16

9 The Process Of Melanogenesis Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP) Hydroquinone Lactic Acid Kojic Acid 17 Vitamin E Scientific research has shown the benefits of using vitamin E are: Tocopherol and Tocopheryl Acetate This is a lipid soluble antioxidant which assists in protecting cell membranes. Tocopherol protects the lipid phase in the products. 18

10 Protect from free radical damage unstable molecule with an unpaired electron caused by external factors i.e. pollution, cigarette smoke, UV light and environmental stress naturally caused during energy production immune system produces free radicals to fight off infections, but they can also damage healthy cells in excess, Free Radicals can create cellular destruction their effect can be minimized by supplementation of antioxidants Antioxidants Why are they so important? 19 Antioxidants Green Rooibos Tea Extract Coenzyme Q10, Ubiquinone Lycopene Lutein Selenium Carotenoids Alpha Lipoic Acid Resveratrol Witch Hazel Glutathione EGCG (Epigallocatechin) Ferulic Acid Curcumin 20

11 Sun Protection Actives & Actions 21 Sun Protection Physical Titanium dioxide Zinc Oxide 22

12 Sun Protection Chemical Para amino benzoates Salicylates Cinnamates Benzophenones 23 Acids and Enzymes 24

13 alpha hydroxy acids Alpha Hydroxy Acids: Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Mandelic Acid Fruit Acids: Citric Acid Malic Acid Tantaric Acid 25 The Process Of Melanogenesis Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP) Hydroquinone Lactic Acid Kojic Acid 26

14 beta hydroxy acids Beta Hydroxy Acids : Salicylic Acid. Other Desquamating Acids : Trichloracetic Acid (TCA) Resorcinol Phenol Peels 27 Other Actives Kojic Acid Hydroquinone Sepiwhite MSH Azelaic Acid 28

15 The Process Of Melanogenesis Sepiwhite MSH Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (VC-IP) Hydroquinone Lactic Acid Kojic Acid 29 Laser & Light Technologies 30

16 KTP Alexandrite Holmium Nd:YAG Er:YAG Ruby CO 2 Excimer Argon Dye x-rays cosmic rays Microwaves TV and radio waves UV VISIBLE 400 nm 700 nm Cosmetic Lasers INFRARED 31 Visible Light And Near-Infrared Lasers Visible Light Lasers Argon: blue-green (488nm); melanin, blood KTP: green (532nm); melanin, blood Pulsed Dye: yellow (585nm); blood Ruby: deep red (694nm); melanin Near-infrared Lasers Alexandrite: near infrared (755nm); melanin, blood Diode: near infrared (810nm); melanin, blood Nd:YAG: near infrared (1064nm); melanin, blood, water 32

17 LASER IPL Monochromatic Broad Spectrum Coherent Non-coherent Collimated (non-divergent) Non-collimated (divergent) Difference between Lasers & IPL 33 Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology Volume 54, Issue 5, May 2006, Pages Laser & Light Technologies A comparison of Q-switched alexandrite laser and intense pulsed light for the treatment of freckles and lentigines in Asian persons: A randomized, physician-blinded, split-face comparative trial Chia-Chen Wang, MD a, b,,, Yuh-Mou Sue, MD c, Chih-Hsiung Yang, MD a, Chih-Kang Chen, MD a All patients experienced improvement (P <.0001). Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation developed in one patient with freckles and 8 patients with lentigines after QSAL. No postinflammatory hyperpigmentation occurred after IPL. Freckles achieved greater improvement after QSAL than IPL (P =.04). In lentigines, the results after IPL were better than QSAL among those with postinflammatory hyperpigmentation after QSAL. Fractionated Laser Skin Resurfacing Treatment Complications: A Review ANDREI I. METELITSA MD 1 andtina S. ALSTER MD 2 Article first published online: 19 JAN 2010 DOI: /j x 2010 by the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, Inc. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is much less frequent with fractional laser skin resurfacing than with other ablative procedures but is observed in 1% to 32% of patients, depending on the system used, parameters applied, and skin phototypes treated. 7,11,19,24,26 29 Patients with darker skin phototypes (Fitzpatrick III-VI) have a higher likelihood of developing PIH. In general, fractional resurfacing of darker skin should use higher fluencies, lower density settings, and longer treatment intervals. 26,30 To further minimize the risk of PIH, patients should avoid sun exposure at least 2 weeks before and after fractional skin resurfacing. 26,31 In contrast to traditional nonfractionated laser resurfacing, PIH is typically less intense and of shorter duration. Although it often resolves without treatment, application of topical bleaching and mild peeling agents (e.g., retinoic, azelaic, ascorbic, glycolic 34 acid) and judicious use of sunblock can hasten its resolution. 2

18 Client Responsibility 35 SUN EXPOSURE Sun AVOIDANCE is a must. Every treatment protocol will fail if this is not the case! And not even "protected skin under the umbrella with a hat and sunscreen, at the beach" is acceptable! A daily SPF is a must, and one CANNOT rely on the SPF provided by makeup - it rubs off. INTERNAL Diet is important mg omega 3 is a great recommendation to ensure a healthy cellular membrane. Both the keratinocyte and melanocyte need those healthy membranes to function efficiently. Supplementation with antioxidants would also be a great recommendation MEDICATIONS Photo sensitizing medications may contribute to pigmentation problems and include any progesterone based ones. Cortisone/steroid meds, oral and topical chemotherapy, antibiotics/anti fungal, certain essential oils, fragrances, pain medication, anti depressants Client Responsibility Pigmentation is a very frustrating and difficult condition to deal with. A treatment program must take many different aspects into consideration, that may not work at all if a few rules are not adhered to, or if certain changes are not made in the client's skin care regimen and/or diet.

19 INGREDIENTS Vitamin A to normalize the keratinocytes and melanocytes. The higher the dose the better. Consistent application over a period of time is a must. Vitamin B3 (niacinimide) and Sepiwhite MSH to control formation of melanin and transfer from melanocyte to keratinocytes. Higher doses of C recommended as the tyrosinase inhibitor. Antioxidants to help keep oxidative stress down as this whole process is stressful to all cells involved CELLULAR AGE After 35 we lose 10-20% functioning melanocytes every 10 years. So remaining cells are under even more stress. This may lead to cellular DNA damage or cellular senescence, and make the condition almost impossible to correct. Client Responsibility (*always consult your physician prior to adding or discontinuing the use of medications, prescriptions and supplements) CONCLUSION Treatment progress and success takes time. It may take months to start seeing a slight change and ANY sun exposure will set the progress back. You should only expect* to see results after 6 months of diligently; removing offending causes and contributors to pigmentation avoiding the sun and using a SPF daily adjusting the diet to include omega 3 and high dose antioxidants use of the correct home care regimen preferable weekly professional treatments light therapies according to risk factors and Fitzpatrick Type 38

20 Thank you! Candace Noonan, LE Toll Free Customer Care Line: DERMACARE ( ) October