CRÈME PIGM 400 TREATMENT STAGE
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1 CRÈME PIGM 400 TREATMENT STAGE Product description: Crème PIGM 400: A brightening, unifying and spot-correcting cream Skin Instants: pigmented and dull 1/ The Biologique Recherche observation Observation: Pigmentary spots are caused by hypersecretion and poor melanin distribution. This natural hyperpigmentation phenomenon is frequently caused by exposure to the sun (63% of brown spots are caused by the sun). Other causes include: Aging process Intrinsic skin aging is accompanied by phenomena including loss of tone, skin dehydration and pigment disorders. The main pigment disorder is senile lentigo, which appears in subjects around the age of 50 on exposed parts of skin and, more particularly, on the backs of the hands and occasionally the face. It is characterized by the appearance of small, brown, smooth spots of a few millimeters to a few centimeters in diameter. These pigmentary defects accumulate progressively. They affect more than 90% of women over the age of 50. Genetic predispositions Some individuals are genetically predisposed to pigmentary spots, as well as some ethnic groups with yellower, more olive or darker skin. Hormonal imbalances (24% of spots are caused by pregnancy hormones). Pregnancy: chloasma is an epidermal melasma. It appears mainly during the second half of pregnancy. It is observed particularly in phototype IV brunettes. This frequent pigmentation appears abruptly, then fading or even disappearing after giving birth and the return of the menstrual cycle. Nothing should be done about chloasma spots until at least six months after giving birth as melanocyte stimulation stops normally after pregnancy. Residual pigmentation may, however, persist for months or even years. The contours of the spot are irregular. It is positioned symmetrically on the forehead, cheeks, temples, upper lip or chin. This homogeneous layer is occasionally interspersed with small lenticular spots. Contraceptive pill: pigmentary spots appear in certain women who take oral contraceptives and expose themselves to the sun. This facial hypermelanosis, benign but unattractive, is observed mainly in phototype IV brunettes. The contours of the spot are irregular, with a symmetrical arrangement on the forehead, cheeks, temples, upper lip or chin. This homogeneous layer is occasionally interspersed with small lenticular spots. Hormonal problems: Many hormones are involved in hyperpigmentation. In women, the levels of sexual hormones (estrogens and progesterone in particular) vary with cell cycle, pregnancy, the use of contraceptives and the menopause (TSH). All of these factors are involved in hyperpigmentation disorders. Other hormones, frequently synthesized by the pituitary gland (such as ACTH) may also play a role: certain
2 hyperpigmentations are associated with endocrine diseases. Reactions following administration of medicinal products Some medicinal products or antibiotics (e.g. tetracycline) may cause the appearance of pigmentary spots in some individuals. The same applies to chemotherapy and radiation therapy. Normally, the spots caused by these treatments disappear spontaneously within six months. Cell hypertoxicity For example, the topical application of a synthetic perfume, followed by exposure to the sun, can render cells hypertoxic and lead to the appearance of spots. The same applies to essential oils. Moreover, several factors can influence the general appearance of skin and complexion: lifestyle, skin type, smoking, etc. Diagnosis: It is important to be able to recognize pigmentary spots. There are two types: epidermal (superficial) and dermal. To determine the type or depth of pigmentary spots, the beautician or physician must use an ultraviolet lamp. If the spot appears darker under the lamp, it is epidermal. If it remains unchanged, however, it is dermal. Dermal spots are difficult to treat. Fortunately, in 70% of cases, the spots are epidermal. Pigmentary spots frequently appear in exposed areas: face, décolleté, back of hands and forearms. It is important to make a correct diagnosis, as certain pigmentary spots may be precancerous lesions, or even malignant tumors, for which early screening and treatment are essential. The diagnostic step, performed by a competent physician, is thus an essential prerequisite to the treatment.
3 Causes: Pigmentation is determined by the amount and type of melanin in the skin. This can be influenced by: - constitutive pigmentation, which defines the color of the complexion and the skin in general (genetic factor) - facultative pigmentation, determined by photo-induced melanogenesis. This is characterized by an increase in the amount of melanin synthesized following UV exposure. When the pigmentation process becomes dysfunctional, the complexion is no longer even and dark spots, corresponding to an accumulation of melanin and lipofuscin, appear. Principle of melanogenesis (melanin production): Melanocytes (a) are dendritic cells (cells with "arm-like" dendrites) found in the basal layer of the epidermis and surrounded by keratinocytes (b). In the presence of UV radiation, the melanin production mechanism (4 steps) is induced. 1- Initially, the UV radiations stimulate the hormone α-msh (c). 2- The role of α-msh is to activate tyrosinase (d), a key enzyme in melanin synthesis, located inside the melanocytes. The melanin is then stored in vesicles called melanosomes (e). 3- These melanosomes migrate along the melanocyte dendrites and eventually enter the keratinocytes (b). Finally, the melanosomes release the melanin inside the keratinocytes. 4- The melanin then rises into the epidermis via the keratinocytes. Once released into the keratinocytes, melanin absorbs and reflects a proportion of the solar radiation (UV radiation in particular) that passes through the stratum corneum. It prevents these radiations from causing DNA damage, thus protecting the nuclei of the keratinocytes. c α-msh keratinocyte b e melanosome a melanocyte (dendritic cell) d Over the years, however, this pigmentation process becomes disrupted: the concentration of melanocytes (a) increases, leading to locally abnormal melanin concentrations.
4 Lipofuscin: Lipofuscin is a yellowish-brown pigment that comes from oxidized proteins and lipids, and is present in all cells. The body produces several natural species to control lipofuscin: - proteasomes are enzymatic complexes that naturally break down and recycle damaged and oxidized proteins - antioxidants, naturally present throughout the body, limit protein and lipid oxidation With age, proteasome activity decreases and their function is affected by UV radiation. Moreover, oxidative stress increases, while the antioxidant system becomes less and less effective. Result: lipofuscin accumulates progressively. This phenomenon, coupled with locally abnormal melanin build-up, leads to the appearance of pigmentary spots. 2/ The Biologique Recherche solution Crème PIGM 400 has been specially formulated to prevent the appearance of pigmentary spots, reduce the intensity of existing brown spots, and brighten the complexion and render it more uniform. This Biologique Recherche brightening treatment acts on the melanogenesis process at all levels, from pigment creation to their surface migration, and it also stimulates lipofuscin breakdown. This anti-pigmentary spot treatment acts at two different levels: Action on melanogenesis: 1- Action on α-msh, reducing UV-associated pigmentation: reduction of facultative pigmentation. 2 - Tyrosinase inhibition, thus preventing melanin synthesis: reduction of both constitutive and facultative pigmentation. 3 - Action on melanosome migration to keratinocytes: inhibition of melanosome phagocytosis by keratinocytes and reduction of constitutive and facultative pigmentation.
5 Anti-lipofuscin (e) action: To prevent the abnormal accumulation of lipofuscin in skin cells, Biologique Recherche has opted firstly to use a number of active substances with antioxidant properties to limit protein and lipid oxidation, and secondly to use active substances that stimulate proteasomes, thus activating the breakdown of oxidized proteins and lipids.
6 Available formats and pack descriptions: Retail format: 50ml jar Professional format: 250ml jar CRÈME PIGM 400 Crème PIGM 400 is a concentrated mix of brightening, anti-spot and protective substances. Its multi-factor formulation helps correct existing imperfections and prevents the appearance of further pigmentary spots. The complexion is brighter and the skin more uniform. Ideal for pigmented and dull Skin Instants. Diagram of the Biologique Recherche face care matrix BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE CARE MATRIX Product Biochemical Complexity Product active substance complexity Finishing Serums Mask Creams Lotion Booster Quintessential Serums Targeted Serums Crème PIGM 400 Cleansing Milk Initialization stage Cleanse, stabilize/purify, prepare Treatment stage Moisturize, stimulate, revitalize, beautify, protect 3/ Benefits - Immediate brightening action - Reduces the intensity of existing pigmentary spots - Prevents/limits the appearance of new spots - Unifies the complexion; reduces irregularity problems - Anti-radical action: limits cell aging - Promotes a decrease in transepidermal water loss; improves hydration - Restructures the epidermis, enabling it to better withstand external stress
7 4/ Formulation structure and main active ingredients A multipolar formulation combining an immediate brightening component and a long-term protective component. Active ingredients: 1. Whitening and brightening structure Action on α-msh (a) and on lipofuscin (e) Extract of Young Cress Shoots and Pure Genistein obtained from Soybeans: This extract regulates melanin and lipofuscin formation. It reduces their accumulation in the skin by inhibiting α- MSH activity (tested in vitro) and by activating proteasomes. It provides targeted reduction of brown spot pigmentation (tested in vivo), prevents photo-induced aging and makes skin pigmentation more consistent (in vivo). Action on Tyrosinase (c) Photoprotection Vitamin Like: Whitening agent (tested in vivo) that acts by inhibiting tyrosinase activity (tested in vitro). This active ingredient has a photo-protective effect on epidermal keratinocytes (tested in vitro) and helps prevent UV-induced skin damage. Action on melanosome migration to keratinocytes (d) Plum Pulp Extract: Plum Pulp is known for its whitening properties (tested in vivo): it limits the melanogenesis process by inhibiting melanin migration via keratinocytes (tested in vitro). It also serves to improve the skin's barrier function, increases hydration (reduces transepidermal water loss - tested in vivo) and improves skin structure (tested in vivo). 2. Protective structure Protection from external stress: Film-Protective Polysaccharide: This Polysaccharide is a film-protective active ingredient that limits external stress on the skin (UV radiation, pollution, etc.). Tested ex-vivo Protection against free radicals: Vitamin E derivative: This is a molecule with dual anti-radical action: it acts against free oxygen radicals on the one hand (antioxidant properties - tested in vitro) and against free nitrogen radicals on the other hand (anti-nitrogen properties). It thus detoxifies the skin of these species and prevents lipid peroxidation (tested in vitro), giving a healthier skin and a bright complexion. It is used in long-term courses to limit the acceleration of cell aging.
8 Wasabi extract: Wasabi is a Japanese plant (member of the Brassicaceae family) that grows in rivers with very pure water. Wasabi is known for its antiseptic properties (tested in vitro) conferred by three molecule families (oxidoreductase, isocyanates and glucosinolates). It can trap and neutralize certain free radicals (tested in vitro). Hydration and restructuring (of the epidermis): Combination of two Exopolysaccharides: This active ingredient is comprised, firstly of an Exopolysaccharide with excellent moisturizing properties (tested in vitro) thanks to its action on NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) and on lipid synthesis (reduction of transepidermal water loss - tested ex vivo). The second Exopolysaccharide protects and regenerates the skin (tested in vitro + ex vivo). Combined, these two exopolysaccharides promote desquamation, smooth the skin's microrelief and allow longterm epidermal hydration (tested in vitro). 1 5/ Recommendations for use Directions for use: Apply Crème PIGM 400, in the morning and/or the evening to the entire face to brighten the complexion, or to areas with pigmentary spots (face, forearms, décolleté and hands). Protect your skin from the sun after the application of the product. Cautions: Do not use on children. Avoid the eye contour. At home: Use Crème PIGM 400 continuously, morning and evening, until the desired effect on the pigmentary spots and/or complexion has been obtained. At the institute Use Crème PIGM 400 during a course of brightening treatment, or a specific pigmentary spot course (course lasting at least 2 months, at a rate of one treatment every two weeks). Depending on your target and your customer's Skin Instant, the booster used will differ and the treatment frequency may be modulated. Tip: For dehydrated Skin Instants, you can combine Crème PIGM 400 with Fluide VIP O 2. For lipid-depleted Skin Instants, you can combine Crème PIGM 400 with Sérum T.E.W.L 6/ Major sales arguments Thanks to 5 concentrated active ingredients, Crème PIGM 400 brightens the skin Crème PIGM 400 triggers an immediate whitening action, effective upon application. This treatment acts on 3 stages of melanogenesis and regulates the accumulation of lipofuscin at the origin of dark spots. Antioxidant protection that limits skin aging Long-term hydration and epidermal reconstruction An epidermis-friendly though efficient treatment. 1 In vitro test: test performed in an artificial environment (tissues, cells) Ex vivo test: test conducted on (human) skin explants obtained from surgical procedures, allowing experiments to be conducted under more closely controlled conditions than for in vitro tests. In vivo test: test conducted on healthy volunteers.
9 INCI lists Ingredients: WATER (AQUA), COCO-CAPRYLATE, BUTYLENE GLYCOL, PENTYLENE GLYCOL, SODIUM ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, LACTOBACILLUS/WASABIA JAPONICA ROOT FERMENT EXTRACT, MICA, ALTEROMONAS FERMENT FILTRATE, VIBRIO ALGINOLYTICUS FERMENT FILTRATE, SOY ISOFLAVONES, LEPIDIUM SATIVUM SPROUT EXTRACT, HYDROLYZED PRUNUS DOMESTICA, DIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANYL PALMITATE, DIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANOL, BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-4, LECITHIN, GLYCERIN, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, PHENOXYETHANOL, ALCOHOL, POLYSORBATE 80.
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