Essential Oils. B y D r. T h a l i a C h a r n e y, N D. N u t r i t i o n a n d H e a l t h E d u c a t i o n M a n a g e r

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1 Essential Oils B y D r. T h a l i a C h a r n e y, N D N u t r i t i o n a n d H e a l t h E d u c a t i o n M a n a g e r

2 ISO & AFNOR Standards Standardization for the Perfume Industry The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and AFNOR (Association Française de Normalisation) do not set standards for differentiating the quality of essential oils; rather they provide specifications for ʻindustries to use as a guide to essential oil compositions so that new batches could be utilized with minimum alteration in flavor or fragrance to the finished products.ʼ 2 The Quality of Essential Oils by Jade Shutes, BA, Dipl. AT., Cert. Herbalist

3 Are you paying too much? The ingredients in the average prestige perfume cost $1.20 -$1.50. The liquid in a typical bottle of $150 perfume is <1% retail cost The bottle, box and display carton typically cost 4-6X more than the fragrance itself For a $100 bottle of perfume, the oil used to make the scent itself is valued at an estimated $2. (NPD Group) 3

4 4 The public wants more natural fragrances!

5 The psychology of buying perfume Cost and buying: 32% of consumers in the fragrance industry say that their purchasing decisions are strongly influenced by discounts or promotions (Statista) Influence of mood: Women in the USA are 35% more likely, when compared to men, to wear a fragrance that is dictated by their moods. (NPD) Decision making time: The average man shopping for a fragrance will take about 30 seconds; Women may take up to 6 minutes to complete the same shopping process. (NPD) Study on psychology of picking fragrances choices may have to do with interaction between personal odour and perfume beyond just a masking affect

6 Most popular scents? Perfumes come in an array of scents Floral scents continue to be bestsellers 1/3 of sales Oriental, water and citrus-influenced fragrances are gaining ground 6

7 Dangers of Perfumes Environmental Working Group (EWG) researchers found more than 75 percent of products listing the ingredient fragrance contained phthalates - disrupt hormone activity, reduce sperm counts, to liver and breast cancer, diabetes, and obesity In lab tests commissioned by the Campaign for Safe Cosmetics, EWG found 38 secret chemicals in 17 name brand fragrances- Coco Chanel (18 chemicals not listed), Britney Spears Curious (17 chemicals not listed) and Giorgio Armani Acqua Di Gio (17 chemicals not listed) Hidden Chemicals in Perfumes and Cologne, Environmental Working Group 7

8 What are essential oils? Essential Oil Represent the essence (soul) of a plant Lack viscosity, evaporating easily Fragrant Impart a smell Volatile Evaporate easily Plant extracts Flowers, leaves, roots Highly concentrated times more concentrated than dry herb 5000 pounds of rose petals for 1 pound EO

9 Nature s role for essential oils Chemical messengers of plants Soul of plant Entice insects for pollination Increase under stress Self defense

10 Role for Humans Spirit awareness & spirit Mind mood, memory Body physical healing

11 Safety Considerations Keep tightly closed away from kids Never ingest or use in cooking Avoid eyes, ears and mucous membranes Always dilute them in oil for skin application (if appropriate for use) Spot test new oils (inner arm) Follow bottle warmings/cautions Heat, light and moisture cause oxidation & skin irritation 11

12 Commercial Uses and regulatory classes Natural Health Products Aromatherapy or as traditional herbal medicine May have NHP for internal use Foods Used as flavorings and has a NFP Cosmetics Used as topical perfumes Pesticides Used as insect repellants Consumer Products (NOW Brand) Used as airborne scents 12

13 Olfactory and Limbic System Olfactory system Limbic Systems Hippocampus: learning and memory Anterior thalamus: alertness and memory Amygdala: personal autobiography and emotional memory 13

14 Limbic System and Endocrine Response Limbic Autonomic Nervous System Hormone released 14

15 Respiratory System Enter nose and coat mucous membranes Enter lungs as antimicrobial and mucolytic Enter blood, to tissues and organs 15

16 Extraction Methods Co2 Cold Pressed Solvent Steam Distilled Carbon dioxide and supercritical carbon dioxide is the solvent vanilla Apply a cold press Citrus oils Delicates Costly Ethanol & hexane Jasmine and Rose converted into vapor and then condensed into a liquid Plants and flowers 16

17 How Our Oils Are Tested Sensory (taste, odor, color, and appearance) Specific gravity Refractive index Optical rotation Flash point Infrared absorption (per Food Chemicals Codex) Ultraviolet/visible spectroscopy (pigment detection) Solubility Heavy metals (cold pressed oils) Active chemical components & marker compounds 17

18 Four tests: Identity and Purity Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FTIR) Infrared frequencies vibration pattern = fingerprint Abnormal fingerprint = adulterants Gas Chromatography-Mass Spec (GC-MS) Separates EO into components for analysis Missing components = incorrect species Novel components = adulteration: cheaper oils, plasticizers Refractive Index Light passed through sample between 2 prisms Degree to which light is bent = RI ( ) Indicates right identity and purity Specific Gravity compares the density of a material sample to a reference sample for the purpose of verifying identity specific gravity:

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20 Therapeutic Grade Oils that a third party pharmacopeia or other statutory organization has allegedly created monographs for Used by brands as a measure of quality Just a marketing term with no authoritative body behind No bearing on quality, purity or safety

21 21 The Art of Perfuming

22 The art of perfuming Top Notes Middle Notes Base Notes 22

23 The Top Note First noticeable impression in a blend Characteristic feature of the perfume Sharp tone Fades quickly 23

24 The Middle Note last for longer (1-2 hours) on a perfume testing strip heart or bouquet of the aroma 24

25 The Base Note Appear last (hour to a day later) Staying power Help soaps maintain their fragrance 25

26 26 NOW Brochure for Consumers

27 The Essential Oil Melting Pot Floral blends well with spicy, citrus and woodsy Citrusy lends well with Floral, Woodsy, Spicy & Minty Minty blends well with Woodsy, Earthy, Herbal and Citrusy Medicinal blends well with woodsy Herbal/green blends well with Woodsy and Minty Earthy blends well with everybody 27

28 Floral/Aromatic Notes TOP NOTES Anise, Lavender, Spike Lavender MIDDLE NOTES Chamomile, Geranium, Helichrysum, Jasmine, Neroli, Rose, Ylang-Ylang LOWER NOTES Vanilla 28 Blends well with spicy, citrus and woodsy

29 Citrusy Notes TOP NOTES Bergamot, Citronella, Grapefruit, Lemon, Lemongrass, Lime, Orange, Tangerine MIDDLE NOTES LOWER NOTES 29 Blends well with Floral, Woodsy, Spicy & Minty

30 Minty Notes TOP NOTES Spearmint, Peppermint, Wintergreen MIDDLE NOTES Pennyroyal LOWER NOTES 30 Blends well with Woodsy, Earthy, Herbal and Citrusy

31 Medicinal TOP NOTES Eucalyptus, Tea Tree MIDDLE NOTES Camphor LOWER NOTES 31 Blends well with Woodsy

32 Herbal/Green TOP NOTES Basil MIDDLE NOTES Carrot Seed, Clary Sage, Hyssop, Thyme, White Marjoram, Oregano, Rosemary LOWER NOTES 32 Blends well with Woodsy and Minty

33 Earthy TOP NOTES MIDDLE NOTES LOWER NOTES Myrrh, Patchouli 33 Blends well with Woodsy & Minty

34 Spicy TOP NOTES MIDDLE NOTES Black Pepper, Cinnamon, Clove, Ginger, Nutmeg LOWER NOTES 34 Blends well with Floral, Woodsy & Citrusy

35 Woodsy TOP NOTES MIDDLE NOTES Balsam Fir Needle, Cypress, Juniper Berry, Pine Needles LOWER NOTES Atlas, Cedarwood, Frankincense, Sandalwood 35 Blends well with ALL!!

36 Blending Ratio TOP NOTES 30% eucalyptus, lemon grapefruit, peppermint, spearmint, sage, tea tree, and orange essential oil MIDDLE TONES 50% chamomile, geranium, juniper, pine, rosemary, ylang-ylang, nutmeg, lavender, cypress, or bay essential oil. BASE NOTES 20% Cinnamon, jasmine, cedar wood, rose, vanilla, myrrh, or clove essential oil 36

37 Luxurious Floral Blend Bergamot 3 drops Jasmine 5 drops Sandalwood 2 drops

38 Green and Herbaceous Blend Basil Peppermint Rosemary & Pine Cypress

39 Aroma wand to test combinations Add 3-5 drops on each paper strip let it sit for a few seconds hold the strip 3-5 inches from the nose and take a short whiff while fanning them Use the wide end of the strip to write down which oil it is so you don't forget or get them mixed up ask for coffee beans after to smell to take away that smell of the perfume If at home repeat the next day to test bases Next put mixture on your wrist and wait 30 minutes to let it mix with your body chemistry Shop for perfume in the morning Limit scents to 3 as brain cannot handle more 39

40 What determines end results Combo of essential oils chosen Unique body chemistry Age of perfume Alcohol added 40

41 Simple and Safe Essential Oil Formula Roll-on NOW 5 ml perfume bottle Fill near to top with carrier oil (little to no scent) Jojoba (stable), grapeseed oil, fractionated coconut oil 3 drops of Essential oil mix (3% dilution) Many online recipes use 10-60% blends!!! 41

42 Perfume Atomizer Bottle, 5 ml Empty These do-it-yourself atomizer bottles are ideal for blending your favorite essential oils to make your own personal scent. An internal glass container protects mixture from heat and oxygen and the attractive silver metal cover is the perfect size for travel, your pocket or purse. The write-on blank label can help identify your perfect scent. 42

43 Alcohol: For serious perfumers Preserves: Ethanol alcohol is cidal = kills microbes (bacteria, mold, fungal spores) Solubilizes = using one substance (a solvent) to dissolve another substance (a solute) to create a unified solution Stabilizes the scent 43

44 Alcohol: Concentration Concentration % ethanol Vodka 80 or 100 proof is only 40-50% ethanol content must be at least 120 proof grain alcohol (proof=twice the percentage of the alcohol) Everclear 190 proof (95% ethanol). Special Denatured Alcohol (SDA or perfumer s alcohol) Amount needed will vary with essential oil selection 44

45 Ratios for Mixture for Consumers 75% ethanol (190 proof/95% ethanol) 25% distilled water 3% essential oils (3 drops in 5 ml bottle) NOTE: Many recipes online call for 10-40% essential oil content!! For cleaning products, spritzers, etc. reverse the ratios of alcohol and distilled water 45

46 Blending for a 10% Essential Oil Based on your bottle size, figure out how much 10% is. For example, 5 ml (0.16 oz.) bottles, so 10% = 0.5 milliliters. There are approximately 20 drops essential oil per ml. Thus, ½ ml is 10 drops. 10 drops in 5 ml = 10% solution EO Add 10 drops of EO blend to bottle Add 1.25 ml of 180 proof alcohol (25% of total volume) Let sit for at least an hour Add 3.75 ml distilled water WARNING: This percentage may cause side effects depending on essential oil choices!! 46

47 TIME: Essential Oil Making Let mix mature for about 1 day to a week to judge the end product. 47

48 Recipes from AromaWeb.Com 48

49 Resources blending.asp good recipes using alcohol - solid perfumes 49

50 COMPLIMENTARY PRODUCT NOW87585 NOW87634 NOW87575 NOW87630 NOW87633 NOW87668 NOW07576 NOW87611 NOW87708 NOW87715 NOW87702 Peppermint Oil (30ml) Power to Flowers EO Blend 30mL Patchouli Oil (Pogostemon cablin) 30mL Bottled Bouquet EO Blend 30mL Smiles for Miles EO Blend 30mL Sandalwood Oil 14% (Santalum album) 30mL Neroli Oil 7.5% (Citrus aurantium) 30mL Naturally Loveable Essential Oil Blend 30mL Organic Grapeseed Oil, Pure 237mL Jojoba Oil Pure (30ml) Shea Nut Oil Liquid, Pure 473mL 50

51 NOW Product-ology LEARN AND EARN! NOW University / NOW Product-ology Learn and Earn 2018 earn free products now!! incorporates training sessions on a variety of healthy topics and ingredients To register Fill in required information Your Code is PS100 You will be sent 2 s; 1 with password info & 1 welcome Ongoing access to courses, go to: Lead Contact thalia.charney@puresource.ca 51

52 NOW Complementary Product Request To receive your complementary product Please send an to with the following information 1. Your store name and telephone phone number 2. Your name 3. The password mentioned in the training 4. The name of the tele-training session 5. The name of the product you are requesting 52

53 Thank you For Attending! C r e a t e d a n d P r e s e n t e d b y D r. T h a l i a C h a r n e y, N D N u t r i t i o n a n d H e a l t h E d u c a t i o n M a n a g e r