TS012(GC)v01en (05/03/2009) What documents need to be completed for formulas approval?
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- Job Beasley
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1 What documents need to be completed for formulas approval? 1
2 We have three types of documents to declare your formulas: The finished product file which is used for the vast majority of formulas you will submit to us. The "plant extracts" file if your finished products are only plant extracts (hydrolates, alcoholic extracts, oily macerates, etc.) The soaps file for solid and liquid soaps. In accordance with Ecocert standards, two levels of classification are defined: Natural and organic cosmetics Natural cosmetics For both levels, there must be at least 95 natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, meaning that there may only be a maximum of 5 synthetic ingredients. A cosmetic product is classified as natural and organic if: o At least 95 of the total plant based ingredients originate from Organic Agriculture. o At least 10 of the total ingredients originate from Organic Agriculture. A cosmetic product is classified as natural if: o At least 50 of the total plant based ingredients originate from Organic Agriculture. o At least 5 of the total ingredients originate from Organic Agriculture. 2
3 a. Finished product formula You must use Excel file F007(GC) Formule Pdt Fini. Important points to note: o The ingredient codes, INCI names and suppliers must be exactly the same as those on the list of ingredients. We recommend that to avoid making any mistakes you copy from the ingredients list and paste into your finished product formula. o Do not leave any blank lines between two ingredients. o Please be aware that the proportion of synthetic ingredients permitted in the finished product must not exceed 5 of all the ingredients. o Do not put more than one formula sheet in the same file (under different tabs): one Excel file for each formula sheet. o Do not copy/paste the formula sheet. Please always keep a blank document that you can reuse. o This sheet needs to be filled in even if your product only has one ingredient. 3
4 TO BE COMPLETED BY THE COMPANY Type of ingredient Conformity (Y/N) give details of any non-conformity Ingredient No. or code Ingredients (INCI name) Function Suppliers in the finished product Synth = (a) Preservative INCI name Plant ingredients = (b) Org (v) = (c) Org (a) = (d) 12 aqua (water) solvent AAAA olea europaea (olive) leaf water* active substance BBBB perfume perfume CCCC Do not skip any lines. Check that your ingredients are codified correctly. 89 sodium hydroxide ph regulator DDDD potassium sorbate preservative EEEE The first columns must contain the same information as that given in the list of ingredients. Total Natural Ingredients or ingredients of natural origin of the total Ing. used = (a) 98.5 Y Total plant ingredients certified as Organic out of plant Ing. = (c) / (b) 96.2 Organic Total ingredients certified as Organic out of total Ing. used = ( c) + (d) 34 ORGANIC Lets you see whether your formula can be approved as an Natural Cosmetic or an Natural and Organic Cosmetic. Y = compliant ORGANIC = Natural and Organic Cosmetic ECO = Natural Cosmetic 4
5 b. Plant extracts To get a plant extract approved as a finished product, you must use Excel file F305(GC) Formule produit fini extrait végétaux Fr. Important points to note: Please provide us with the appropriate certificates for all ORGANIC elements (plant, glycerine, alcohol, oils, etc.) If you use fresh plants, you must indicate in the table the dried plant equivalent using the following ratio: Dried plant = 1/4 fresh plant Only fill in the light green cells, the composition and percentage will then be calculated automatically. Don't forget to fill in the final quantity of extract obtained. The ingredient codes, INCI names and suppliers must be exactly the same as those on the list of ingredients. We recommend that to avoid making any mistakes you copy from the ingredients list and paste into your finished product formula. The extraction solvents authorised by Ecocert standards are water, ethylic alcohol, plant glycerine, vegetable oil or carbon dioxide. An alternative solvent may be suggested but will only be accepted if it is of natural origin and compliant with the standards (submit the technical file and/or fill in the raw material verification questionnaire). As extraction is a physical process, an ingredient undergoing this transformation is still regarded as a plant ingredient. 5
6 All light green columns must be filled in. The ingredient code, the INCI name and the trade name must be the same as those given on your ingredients list. Ingredients Ingredient code to be completed by the manufacturer INCI name Trade name Supplier ORG (Y/N) Quantity used during the process (kg) Content in finished product to be completed by ECOCERT WATER 1 Aqua Water Laboratory N Dried plant 1 (dried plant = 1/4 fresh plant) Dried plant 2 Dried plant 3 Alcohol Glycerine Plant ingredients (e.g. oils) 2 Citrus orantium amara plant ORG Neroli XXX Y synth Conformity Ingredients of Natural Origin Synthetic Ingredients END TOTAL Final quantity of extract obtained 200 Dried plant ratio in final extract Indicate here the final quantity of extract obtained (at the end of the process, after filtration) 6
7 c. Solid and/or liquid soap You must use Excel file F307(GC) Formule savon. This file is to be used if you manufacture your own soap. Please note that if you use a soap base bought directly from your supplier to which you add only essential oils, perfumes, etc., you must use the file for all other formulations (see III. c. other formulations) Important points to note: This file distinguishes the soap base (water, oils, soda or potassium) from the ingredients subsequently added as perfumes, preservatives, etc. The ingredient codes, INCI names and suppliers must be exactly the same as those on the list of ingredients. We recommend that to avoid making any mistakes you copy from the ingredients list and paste into your finished product formula. Don't forget to state the quantity of soap obtained. For solid soap, the final quantity is the quantity obtained after drying. 7
8 To be filled in according to your ingredients list. SOAP BASE compounds introduced Oils ingredient code to be completed by Ecocert INCI name trade name supplier weight (kg) plant (c) Organic (d) synth (a) Conf Water Sodium hydroxide (soda) Potassium hydroxide Sodium chloride (salt) ingredients added to the soap base SOAP BASE Additional ingredients (essential oils, preservatives, etc.) END TOTAL 0 #DIV/0! #DIV/0! #DIV/0! residue from soda or potassium after saponification () Quantity of soap obtained (kg) (after drying for soap noodles total quantity for liquid soap) Soda residue, generally determined by analysis. For liquid soap: Total quantity of soap obtained For solid soap: Quantity obtained after drying 8
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