Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester Naturally-Derived Surfactant for Excellent Mildness and Foam Properties

Transcription

1 Personal Care Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester Naturally-Derived Surfactant for Excellent Mildness and Foam Properties INCI Name: Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate SAP Code #: Versatile Polyglyceryl Ester Non-ionic surfactant with HLB value of 14 Excellent foaming properties in cleansing systems Superior mildness on skin, non-irritant Excellent PEG alternative, EO-free emulsifier Naturally-Derived Surfactant for Excellent Mildness and Foam Properties ECOCERT approved Manufactured from 100% plant-derived raw materials High Flexibility Works well in different surfactant systems Efficient in concentrations from 1 5% Suitable for a wide range of formulation types

2 Naturally-Derived Surfactant for Excellent Mildness and Foam Properties The Importance of Foam in Cleansing Systems Methodology Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester is an excellent surfactant made from raw materials of 100% plant origin. This versatile surfactant forms stable cleansing surfactant formulations with improved foaming and extreme mildness. Due to the non-ionic character of Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester, it is compatible with a broad range of surfactants. Furthermore, it is an ECOCERT approved ingredient which makes Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester the smart choice for naturally-focused and PEGfree cleansing formulations. Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester is composed of two parts; a hydrophilic head group and hydrophobic tail group. The hydrophilic head group consists of ten (10) units of glycerin while the hydrophobic tail group is made of either one (1) molecule of caprylic acid or capric acid, both fatty acids (fig. 1). Hydrophilic head group, made of glycerin units Hydrophobic tail group, made of caprylic or capric acid Fig. 1: Molecular representation of Polyaldo 10-1-CC. The blue represents the hydrophilic head group. The grey represents the hydrophobic tail. Mild, Foam withpolyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Esters Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester is a non-ionic surfactant which has excellent mildness on the skin, ideal for cleansing products. In addition, Lonza Inc. has evaluated the foaming properties of Polyaldo 10-1-CC and compared it to a benchmark chemistry in the marketplace today, PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, which was selected as the benchmark because of its mildness on the skin. However, PEG-80 sorbitan laurate is well-known for its poor foaming properties. In a Lonza-conducted study, Polyaldo 10-1-CC was found to be superior in creating flash foam and forms a more stable foam structure compared to PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, while maintaining very low irritancy on the skin. For many regions of the world, the foaming ability of a surfactantbased product is an important formulation aesthetic. It indicates to the user the potential cleansing properties of the formulation. In addition, the foam provides a particular experience on skin and hair for the consumer. A foam study was coordinated to study the foam properties of Polyaldo 10-1-CC and PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, the benchmark material. Decyl glucoside was also included in the study. A TECLIS Foam Analyzer was utilized in the study under constant stir methodology. Data generated by the foam analyzer was translated by computer software. Imagery was collected with a CCD camera for Cell Size Analysis (CSA). Foams were generated by stirring at a constant rotation speed of one thousand (1000) rotations per minute (rpm) in a chamber where a one hundred fifty (150) milliliter (ml) sample of solution for foaming was placed. Foam ability and foam stability were determined by conductivity measurements of the foam tube. Bubble evolution was observed after foam formation by a CCD camera, which photographed the sample every five (5) seconds. The foam pictures were analyzed with CSA software that can give size and distribution of bubbles. Flash Foam Technical Data Flash foam, a unique characteristic of foam, is the initial amount of foam generated over a given time period of a surfactant system. In general, shorter amounts of time to create flash foam is a great quality for a surfactant system. Polyaldo 10-1-CC was evaluated for the generation of flash foam in water versus PEG-80 sorbitan laurate and decyl glucoside. Foam was observed with constant stirring until one hundred fifty (150) ml of foam was achieved. Flash Foam Analysis of Polyaldo 10-1-CC vs. PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate vs. Decyl Glucoside Foam Volume (ml) Polyaldo 10-1-CC PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate Time(s) Decyl Glucoside Fig. 1 Flash Foam Analysis of Polyaldo 10-1-CC versus PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate and Decyl Glucoside. 2 Personal Care Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester

3 The results from figure 2 show Polyaldo 10-1-CC generated flash foam faster than PEG-80 sorbitan laurate. The line representing Polyaldo 10-1-CC has a steeper slope compared to the line representing PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, indicating it took less time for the Polyaldo 10-1-CC system to achieve one hundred fifty (150) ml of foam. The PEG-80 sorbitan laurate system took over three hundred (300) seconds more to achieve the same amount of flash foam. If a formulator were to try and achieve the same amount of flash foam as the Polyaldo 10-1-CC system in the same amount of time, they would need to include more PEG-80 sorbitan laurate to the system or include a secondary foaming surfactant, potentially increasing the formulation costs. In addition, without Polyaldo the final user would need to increase the amount of energy to generate the foam. Photo Imagery of Foam Structure Images of the foam structure were taken during the course of the study with a high-powered digital camera mounted to the sample containers. Dynamic Surface Tension Analysis Technical Data Surface tension is a measure of a liquid and its ability to resist an external force due to the cohesive properties of its molecules. A surfactant lowers the surface tension of a liquid in which it is dissolved. Measuring the surface tension of a liquid containing a surfactant can provide an analysis of how surface active the surfactant is and how effective the surfactant will perform. A study was set up to measure the surface tension of Polyaldo CC. It was measured using a Sigma 700 tensiometer (KSV Instruments, Helsinki, Finland) under the Wilhelmy (platinum) plate methodology. Polyaldo 10-1-CC was compared against PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, the benchmark material. Decyl glucoside was also included in the study. Measurements were carried out at room temperature (24 ±1 C) with a stabilization time of 10 minutes. Concentrations of test samples ranged from 0.001% to 3%. Polyaldo 10-1-CC PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate Decyl Glucoside Dynamic Surface Tension of Polyaldo 10-1-CC vs. PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate vs. Decyl Glucoside Surface Tension (mn m-1) Half Time of Liquid Volume (seconds) Fig. 2: Photo Imagery of Foam Structure Comparing Polyaldo 10-1-CC versus PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate and Decyl Glucoside The results from figure 3 show the difference in the foam generated by the two surfactants. The foam created by Polyaldo 10-1-CC has a structure with spherical micelles and excellent entrapment of liquid at the interface. The foam created by PEG-80 sorbitan laurate never builds a stable, quality foam structure. In addition, the half time of liquid volume, a measure of how quickly liquid is entrapped in the air section of the interface, is nine (9) seconds for Polyaldo 10-1-CC versus fifty one (51) seconds for PEG-80 sorbitan laurate. This tells us Polyaldo 10-1-CC wants to be in the foam area and support foam structure while PEG-80 sorbitan laurate would prefer to be in the liquid solution Concentration (mmol L-1) Polyaldo 10-1-CC PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate Decyl Glucoside Fig. 3 Dynamic Surface Tension Analysis Comparing Polyaldo 10-1-CC versus PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate and Decyl Glucoside. The results from figure 4 show the surface tension of Polyaldo CC decreases as the concentration increases. At concentrations 0.01% and above, Polyaldo 10-1-CC averages a surface tension value of twenty eight (28) mn/m. A high-performance surfactant averages a surface tension value between twenty five (25) and thirty two (32) mn/m, which qualifies Polyaldo 10-1-CC as an effective surfactant. There is a noticeable difference when comparing the results for Polyaldo 10-1-CC to PEG-80 sorbitan laurate. As the concentration of PEG-80 sorbitan laurate increases, there is little change in the surface tension value, averaging forty (40) mn/m and not qualifying PEG-80 sorbitan laurate as an effective surfactant. On average, Polyaldo 10-1-CC is a more surface active surfactant compared to PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, which can help create foam easier and support more stable foam structure. 3 Personal Care Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester

4 In-vitro Epidermal and Epiocular Irritation Study Technical Data Surfactants work by lowering the surface tension of a liquid, helping to spread the liquid over more surface area. They can also strip lipids off of skin. The removal of lipids leaves skin less protected and can cause problems like dry skin and increased skin irritation. Lonza has evaluated Polyaldo 10-1-CC for skin and eye irritation and compared it to popular specialty surfactants available in the marketplace today. Polyaldo 10-1-CC was shown to be a very low irritating surfactant for cleansing systems. Polyaldo 10-1-CC was evaluated in an in-vitro MatTek Epiderm Skin Irritation Test (SIT) against PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, the benchmark material. Decyl glucoside and cocamidopropyl betaine were included to broaden the scope of the study. A buffered saline solution was used as a negative control and a 5% sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) solution as a positive control. Mean tissue viability percentages were calculated (via software). A test sample with a mean tissue viability percentage of 50% or more is considered a non-irritant. A sample with a mean tissue viability percentage of 50% or less is considered an irritant. The results from figure 5 show Polyaldo 10-1-CC is classified as a nonirritating surfactant material. PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, a surfactant known for its mildness on the skin, was confirmed to be a non-irritant surfactant. Product Mean Tissue Viability (%) Irritancy Classification Polyaldo 10-1-CC Non-Irritant PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate 98.9 Non-Irritant Decyl Glucoside 17.0 Irritant Cocamidopropyl Betaine 32.7 Irritant Phosphate Buffered Saline (negative control) Non-Irritant 5% Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate (positive control) 3.1 Irritant Fig. 5 Results from an in-vitro MatTek Epiderm Irritation Study (SIT) Comparing Polyaldo 10-1-CC versus PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate and Other Benchmark Surfactants. Another common issue with surfactants is causing irritation of the eyes. Surfactants disrupt the balance of water on the surface of the eye itself and can cause severe irritation (examples include eye sting, dryness, itchiness, and redness). Eye irritation is especially important for formulations which come in close contact to eyes such as face washes and baby shampoos. Utilizing surfactants with low to no eye irritation makes for a improved end-user experience. calculate an ET50, which represents the time at which the EpiOcular tissue viability was reduced by 50% compared to control tissues. The results from figure 6 show Polyaldo 10-1-CC is classified as a mild eye irritating surfactant. PEG-80 sorbitan laurate was confirmed to be a minimal eye irritating surfactant. Product EpiOcular Tissue Viability at 50% (ET 50 )(min) Irritancy Classification Polyaldo 10-1-CC 32.3 Mild PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate >256.0 Minimal Decyl Glucoside <16.0 Moderate to Severe Cocamidopropyl Betaine <1.0 Severe Fig. 6 Results from in-vitro MatTek EpiOcular Irritation Study Comparing Polyaldo 10-1-CC versus PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate and Other Benchmark Surfactants. Ex-Vivo Confocal Raman Microscope Surfactant Penetration Study Surfactants help cleanse the surface of the skin but can also compromise its precisely-balanced state. Disruptions to the stratum corneum can lead to the overall breakdown of skin barrier function. Polyaldo 10-1-CC has been shown to help mitigate the penetration of surfactants and reduce the potential damage it may cause. A surfactant penetration study was commissioned using surgical human abdominal skin as the medium for the study. Solutions of sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS, a positive irritant on skin) and SDS with Polyaldo 10-1-CC were evaluated in the study. Raman penetration images were acquired with a WITec Alpha-300R Plus Confocal Raman microscope (Germany) using a 532nm laser with 20mW power. All data analysis was performed with WITEc Project Plus software. The study was run in duplicate. The Confocal Raman images in figure 7 show the penetration of the SDS into the skin. The top of the image represents the surface of the skin while the bottom of the image represents a total of 60μm into the skin. Red represents the highest concentration of SDS present in the skin while purple represents low to no SDS present in the skin. The results in figure 7 show the skin treated with Polyaldo 10-1-CC and SDS had a lower penetration of the SDS into the skin compared to the skin treated with SDS alone. The inclusion of Polyaldo 10-1-CC in the surfactant sample mitigated the penetration of SDS into the stratum corneum, helping to reduce potential irritation caused by the surfactant and better maintain the integrity of the skin. Polyaldo 10-1-CC was evaluated in an in-vitro MatTek EpiOcular eye irritation study against PEG-80 sorbitan laurate, the benchmark material. Decyl glucoside and cocamidopropyl betaine were included in the study to broaden the scope of the study. Measurements of EpiOcular tissue viability were made via methyl thaizole tetrazolium (MTT) uptake and reduction. The mean percent viability for each time point was used to 4 Personal Care Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester

5 Confocal Raman Images of Relative SDS-d Concentration Skin surface SC ~20µm thick Area ratio CD/CH 3.5 a.u. Confocal Raman Images of Relative Water Content Total depth in skin 60 SDS-d treated skin microns Polyaldo 10-1-CC + SDS treated skin Untreated, control skin Skin surface SC ~20µm thick Area ratio CD/CH 3.5 a.u. Fig. 7 Results from Confocal Raman Imagery Measuring the Penetration of SDS in Skin When Treated with Polyaldo 10-1-CC + SDS versus SDS. Another way to measure the penetration of surfactants into skin using the Confocal Raman Microscope is to measure the water content in the stratum corneum. The penetration of surfactants like SDS disrupt the balance of moisture in skin. An increase in water present in the stratum corneum indicates a breakdown in the stratum corneum structure. The Confocal Raman images in figure 8 show the amount of water present in the stratum corneum (region from 0 to 20μm deep). As in figure 7, the top of the image represents the surface of the skin while the bottom of the image represents a total of 60μm into the skin. Red indicates a high concentration of water present in the skin. Purple indicates low water content in the skin. The results from figure 8 showed skin treated with Polyaldo 10-1-CC and SDS had less water content in the stratum corneum region compared to skin treated with SDS alone. The skin treated with Polyaldo 10-1-CC and SDS maintained a purple color in the stratum corneum region, indicating low concentrations of water and best matching the image of untreated control skin. The skin treated with SDS alone had blotches of red and yellow, indicating a high concentration of water, a sign of stratum corneum disruption. Polyaldo 10-1-CC helped reduce the impact surfactants may have on the stratum corneum, protecting the skin from its potentially damaging effects while still providing excellent surface activity. SDS treated skin USA Lonza Consumer Care 70 Tyler Place South Plainfield, NJ Tel Total depth in skin 60 microns Polyaldo 10-1-CC + SDS treated skin Fig. 8 Results from Confocal Raman Imagery Measuring the Water Content in the Stratum Corneum When Skin Treated with Polyaldo 10-1-CC + SDS versus SDS. Mild, Foam with Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Esters! Polyaldo 10-1-CC is your naturally-derived surfactant solution for excellent foam generation while maintaining mildness on skin. This PEGalternative surfactant has been shown to improve flash foaming of surfactant systems compared to PEG-80 sorbitan laurate. It has also been shown to create more stable, more structured foam compared to PEG-80 sorbitan laurate. All the while, providing a very low irritation surfactant that can help improve skin barrier protection, making Polyaldo 10-1-CC an ideal solution for caring cleansing products of all skin and hair types! Switzerland Lonza Ltd Muenchensteinerstrasse Basel Tel Review and follow all product safety instructions. All product information corresponds to Lonza s knowledge on the subject at the date of publication, but Lonza makes no warranty as to its accuracy or completeness and Lonza assumes no obligation to update it. Product information is intended for use by recipients experienced and knowledgeable in the field, who are capable of and responsible for independently determining the suitability of ingredients for intended uses and to ensure their compliance with applicable law. Proper use of this information is the sole responsibility of the recipient. This information relates solely to the product as an ingredient. It may not be applicable, complete or suitable for the recipient s finished product or application; therefore republication of such information or related statements is prohibited. Information provided by Lonza is not intended and should not be construed as a license to operate under or a recommendation to infringe any patent or other intellectual property right. No claims are made herein for any specific intermediate or end use application Lonza Personal Care Polyaldo 10-1-CC Polyglyceryl Ester 09/17