Mild and Gentle. Hostapon SG novel amino acid surfactant for EO- and sulfatefree rinse-off cosmetic formulations

Transcription

1 Public Dr. Peter Klug BU Industrial & Consumer Specialties Application Development Personal Care Mild and Gentle Hostapon SG novel amino acid surfactant for EO- and sulfatefree rinse-off cosmetic formulations

2 Novel Mild Surfactant in line with Clariant EcoTain Philosophy New formulation concepts Natural based New opportunities in rinse-off Efficacy Mildness Water saving Slide 2

3 Hostapon SG Mild and Gentle Hostapon SG is the innovative mild surfactant based on glycine, the main amino acid of human collagen opens up new formulation concepts EO- and Sulfate-free cleansing products with excellent rich and creamy foam, synergism with soap improves rinsability of formulations and helps to save water is significantly milder than other anionic surfactants and gentle to skin and hair without compromising on cleansing efficacy Slide 3

4 Hostapon SG Mild and Gentle INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Readily biodegradable surfactant with plant based hydrophobe Economic, liquid, salt containing form with highest possible active concentration (approx. 25 %). Patented, economic 1 step synthesis process Preservative-free due to high ph Uses: Primary surfactant for EO-free, sulfate/sulfonate-free shampoos and body soaps Secondary surfactant for improved rinsing properties and soap-like skinfeel in shampoos, shower gels and shaving preparations Mild facial cleansers with improved mildness and foam structure Slide 4

5 Properties of Hostapon SG - foam behaviour - rinsability study - mildness data - cleansing efficacy

6 Foam build-up: equilibrium at different ph H+ OH- Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate R = coco acyl Hostapon SG has good foam buildup and structure within a broad ph range of ph 6 to ph 10 Cocoyl Glycine Slide 6

7 foam volume/ml Foaming behaviour at higher concentration Test Method: 1.0% A.I. Hostapon SG in soft water, 30 C, stir 2000 rpm for 1 min 300 Relevant for Shampoos/ Shower gels in use after dilution Hostapon SG has excellent foam within a broad ph range ph value Slide 7

8 foam volume/ml Synergistic foaming behaviour with fatty acids Test Method: 10.0% A.I. Hostapon SG in soft water, 40 C, 1.0% fatty acid, ph=6-7, stir 2000 rpm for 1 min Relevant for facial cleanser after application with wet hands coarse foam volume/ml fine foam volume/ml lauric acid 1.0 myristic acid 0.3 lauric acid+ 0.7 myristic acid 0.7 lauric acid+ 0.3 myristic acid Fatty acid increases foam density greatly: Lauric Acid boosts foam volume; both Lauric Acid & Myristic Acid can produce creamy lather Combination of fatty acids can improve foam volume & creaminess dramatically fatty acid (%) Slide 8

9 Foam volume (ml) Comparison of foam properties in surfactant mixtures Relevant to assess surfactant base properties Test Method: 0.01 % active surfactant mixture in deionized water, Sita-Foam Tester, 37 C, ph = 8.0 SLES/KB 1: 1 SG/KB 1: 1 SG/KB/APG 1: 1 : 1 SG = Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate KB = Coco Betaine SLES = Sodium Laureth Sulfate APG = Coco Glucoside KB/APG 1: 1 Time Time at ph > 7, the combination of Hostapon SG with Coco-Betaine gives identical foam buildup compared to SLES/Coco-Betaine Coco-Glucoside/Betaine mixtures show only slow foam buildup Hostapon SG shows better speed of lathering compared to Coco Glucoside and improves the speed of lathering of Coco- Glucoside/Betaine mixtures significantly Optimum clarity is achieved at ph > 7 Slide 9

10 number of persons Rinsibility study: panel test, Asian skin 20 persons, Base 1: 10 % A.I. SLES solution Base 2: 10 % A.I. SLES % A.I. Hostapon SG solution improved rinsibility no difference worse rinsibility 3% A.I. Hostapon SG improves the skin feeling of good rinsibility in the formulation in a panel test There is a significant difference at 95 % confidence level between base 2 and base 1 The improved rinsability helps to reduce water consumption Slide 10

11 Mildness data RBC (Red blood cell) Test Data (ph = 7-8) Amphoteric surfactants Cocamidopropyl Betaine Coco Betaine Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate SLES-2 SLS Denaturation (%) Low degree of Denaturation indicates excellent mildness Hostapon SG (Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate) is significantly milder than conventional anionic surfactants Slide 11

12 Mildness data in surfactant mixtures RBC (Red blood cell) Test Data, Denaturation (%) 26 SG/KB 22 SG = Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate KB = Coco Betaine SLES = Sodium Laureth Sulfate CAPB = Cocamidopropyl Betaine SLES/KB SG/CAPB SLES/CAPB Ratio 50 / 50 Ratio 70 / 30 Anionic /Amphoteric blends based on Hostapon SG are significantly milder than blends based on SLES Slide 12

13 Cleansing efficacy Cleansing Efficacy in Linitest Apparatus (Tissue with Sebum Dirt, 4 g/l surfactant, 30 min, 40 C, deionized water) Remission value (after washing) Remission Difference SLES-2 Hostapon SG Hostapon SG shows similar cleansing efficacy compared to SLES-2 Slide 13

14 Shampoo & Bodywash

15 Formulation of EO- and sulfate-free shampoos and shower gels with Hostapon SG Hostapon SG is the ideal surfactant for EO- and sulfate-free shampoos Combination with Coco-Betaine or Cocamidopropyl Betaine gives improved mildness compared to SLES based systems Foam buildup is comparable to SLES-2/Betaine at ph above 7, foam creaminess is significantly better Optimal clarity is achievd at ph > 7.5 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate thickens significantly better than Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate or Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, thickening is possible by addition of Cocamide MEA, Velsan SC, biopolymers or associative thickeners like Genapol DAT 100 The hair feel is significantly cleaner compared to Betaine/APG systems Slide 15

16 Mild shampoo for sensitive scalp EO- and sulfate-free, 15 % active surfactant BI 1164 A Hostapon SG (Clariant) % Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Genagen KB (Clariant) % Coco-Betaine Genagen CME (Clariant) 1.00 % Cocamide MEA Velsan SC (Clariant) 2.10 % Sorbitan Caprylate Water ad 100 % B Benzyl Alcohol 0.60 % Fragrance q.s. C Citric Acid 25 % 0.70 % Procedure I Mix phase A while heating to 70 C. II Cool down to 30 C and add the components of B while stirring. III Finally adjust the ph with C Properties: ph = 7.00 Viscosity (Brookfield DV-I+): 2900 mpas (T-D, 20 rpm, 20 C) Hostapon SG is significantly easier to thicken than Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate EO-free surfactant formulations may be thickened with Cocamide MEA and/or Sorbitan Caprylate Preserved with Sorbitan Caprylate and Benzyl Alcohol Slide 16

17 Mild shampoo base EO- and sulfate-free, 15 % active surfactant BI 1165 A Hostapon SG (Clariant) % Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Genagen KB (Clariant) % Coco-Betaine Genagen CME (Clariant) 2.00 % Cocamide MEA Water ad 100 % B Nipaguard DMDMH (Clariant) q.s. DMDM Hydantoin Fragrance q.s. C Citric Acid 25 % 0.70 % Procedure I Mix phase A while heating to 70 C. II Cool down to 30 C and add the components of B while stirring. III Finally adjust the ph with C Properties: ph = 7.00 Viscosity (Brookfield DV-I+): 2800 mpas (T-D, 20 rpm, 20 C) Economic EO- and sulfate-free formulation with Hostapon SG and incredible foam No deposition of SLES on skin Slide 17

18 Ultra-Mild Shampoo EO- and sulfate-free, 15 % active surfactant BI 1168 A Hostapon SG (Clariant) % Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Fragrance 0.30 % B Water ad 100 % C Genagen KB (Clariant) % Coco-Betaine Plantacare 818 UP 5.77 % Coco Glucoside D Comperlan % Cocamide MEA E Citric Acid 25 % approx. 1.6 % F Preservative q.s Mild EO- and sulfate-free formulation with sugar surfactant for increased mildness Procedure I Mix the components of A II Add B to I III Add C to II and stir until homogenious IV Add D to III and heat up, until solution is clear, cool down V Adjust ph to VI Add F to V Properties: ph = 7.12 Viscosity (Brookfield DV-I+): 7150 mpas (T-D, 20 rpm, 20 C) Slide 18

19 Mild Effect Shower Gel EO- and sulfate-free, 11,8 % active surfactant AI 8191 A Water ad 100 % B Genuvisco CG % -Carrageenan C Hostapon SG (Clariant) % Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Hostapon CCG (Clariant) 5.00 % Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate Genagen CAB 818 (Clariant) 3.33 % Cocamidopropyl Betaine Plantacare 2000 UP 2.36 % Decyl Glucoside D Aristoflex TAC (Clariant) 1.50 % Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Carboxyethyl Acrylate Crosspolymer E Citric Acid 25 % approx % F Nipaguard DMDMH q.s DMDM Hydantoin Mild EO- and sulfate-free formulation with sugar surfactant for increased mildness and Aristoflex TAC for stabilizing air bubbles Procedure I Dissolve B in A while stirring and heating to 40 C II Add the components of C and stir until completely dissolved III Slowly add D while stirring until homogenious IV Adjust ph with E to approx. 7 V Re-heat the formulation to 50 C in case white flakes are occuring after ph adjustment VI Add F at room temperature Properties: ph = 7.00 Viscosity (Brookfield DV-I+): 2180 mpas (T-D, 20 rpm, 20 C) Slide 19

20 Facial Cleansers

21 Formulation of pasty facial cleansers with Hostapon SG The synergism with fatty acids and the excellent rinsability makes Hostapon SG the ideal surfactant for facial cleansers Pasty facial cleansers are semi-crystalline masses with intense foam The melting point of the facial cleanser is influenced by ph, amount of moisturizer and type of moisturizer (glycerin, sorbitol) A melting point > C is ideal for the stability of the facial cleanser Slide 21

22 crystallizing point/ C Facial cleanser Formulation tip I Test Base: 15 % A.I. Hostapon SG water solution, add different dosage Citric Acid ,9 6,55 6,04 ph value The crystallizing point increases with decline of ph (with adding citric acid ) Crystalizing Point/ C Slide 22

23 crystallizing point/ C Facial cleanser Formulation tip II Test Base: 15 % A.I. Hostapon SG with different levels of Glycerin at ph around glycerin (%) The crystallizing point increases with the addition of Glycerin at ph around 6 Slide 23

24 Facial cleanser Formulation tip III Test Base: 15 % A.I. Hostapon SG with different kinds of humectants, fix the level of humectant at 20 % and ph around 6 PEG 400 Sorbitol Glycerin Although PEG 400 has the highest crystallizing point, the system does not form a stable base, even at room temp. Glycerin and Sorbitol form a stable base, Glycerin has the higher crystallizing point crystallizing point/ C Slide 24

25 Mild facial cleanser CI A Water % Glycerin % Structure % Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer B Hostapon SG (Clariant) % Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Lauric Acid 1.00 % Myristic Acid 0.25 % Stearic Acid 0.25 % C Citric Acid 0.70 % Water 6.80 % D Genagen CAB (Clariant) % Cocamidopropyl Betaine E Nipaguard DMDMH (Clariant) q.s. DMDM Hydantoin Fragrance q.s. Procedure I Mix phase A and put it into water bath and heat to 80 C. II Add components of phase B one by one and keep stirring at 80 C. III Pre-mix phase C and put into II. IV Cool down to 60 C and add phase D. V Add phase E when temperature is below 40 C. Properties: ph = 6.45 Viscosity (Brookfield DV-I+): cps (T-D, 10 rpm, 25 C, 24 h) Slide 25

26 Mild facial cleanser CI A Hostapon SCI 85 (Clariant) % Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Water % B Genapol DAT 100 (Clariant) 0.40 % PEG-150 Polyglyceryl-2 Tristearate Lauric Acid 2.00 % Stearic Acid 1.00 % C Hostapon SG (Clariant) % Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Genagen CAB (Clariant) 7.00 % Cocamidopropyl Betaine D Xanthan Gum 0.30 % Glycerin 5.00 % E Carbomer Aqua SF % Acrylates Copolymer Water % F Nipaguard DMDMH (Clariant) q.s. DMDM Hydantoin Fragrance q.s. Procedure I Mix phase A and put it into water bath and heat to 80 C. II Add components of phase B one by one and keep stirring at 80 C. III Add components of phase C and cool down to 60 C IV Pre-mix phase D and add it into III V Pre-mix phase E and add it into IV, keep strong stirring. VI Add phase F when temperature is below 40 C. Properties: ph = 6.05 Viscosity (Brookfield DV-I+) cps (T-D, 10 rpm, 25 C, 24 h) Slide 26

27 Mild and Gentle Summary

28 Summary Hostapon SG is the ideal surfactant for EO-free, sulfate-/sulfonate-free formulations is used as primary surfactant in facial cleansers or as primary or secondary surfactant in mild shampoos, body soaps and shaving preparations delivers excellent flash foam and rich and creamy foam within a wide ph range is one of the mildest anionic surfactants is free of preservatives is a Clariant EcoTain product Slide 28

29 Backup

30 Foam volume (ml) Foaming behaviour at different ph Test Method: 0.01 % A.I. Hostapon SG in deionized water, Sita-Foam Tester, 37 C, variable ph Relevant to assess surfactant base properties ph = 9 ph = 8 The foam volume increases with increasing ph ph = 7 Time Slide 30