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1 F lo r a s u n F l o r a s u n 9
2 High-O leic Su The Natural Solution: Florasun 9 is: Globally Approved Bio/plant-based GMO - Free BSE - Free Trans-fat - Free REACH - Exempt With today s demand for natural personal care products, the use of a high quality vegetable oil for its emollient properties is particularly desirable. However, the problem with most natural, lipid-based emollients is their tendency to become rancid. As a result, irritating compounds are released and product shelf life is reduced. To overcome inherent oxidative stability problems, formulations often are loaded with antioxidants. Yet, this does not significantly improve stability and it can substantially increase costs. Ultimately, oxidative stability problems with most natural, lipid-based emollients will limit the quality, acceptance, shelf life and profitability of your product. Now there is a natural solution: FloraSun 9, the first natural oil made to last. FloraSun 9 is a natural, triglyceride oil with superb oxidative stability and excellent emollient properties. The unprecedented resistance of FloraSun 9 to rancidity is largely due to its high oleic acid content which represents 85% to 9% of the oil. By including this monounsaturated fatty acid and excluding high levels of polyunsaturates, exceptional oxidative stability is achieved without the presence of trans fatty acids. Using traditional Mendelian breeding techniques, novel cultivars were developed from the sunflower plant Helianthus annuus. When the oil is extracted, a crystal clear, odorless, low-color vegetable oil is produced that offers superior emolliency, elegant skin feel and excellent spreadability. FloraSun 9 is the natural replacement for less stable vegetable oils, non-biodegradable mineral oils and/or synthetic esters in personal care formulations. Moreover, it is hypo-allergenic, non-comedogenic and Generally Recognized As Safe (G.R.A.S.) for human use around the world. In the discussion that follows, you will see why simply adding tocopherols to oils such as traditional sunflower is not enough to prevent rancidity. You will understand why the addition of natural tocopherols so enhances the shelf life of FloraSun 9 that our product is patented. You will also realize why there is no better way to improve the shelf life of your products than with FloraSun 9. In fact, FloraSun 9 in your formula adds up to better profitability with less waste to equal greater unspoiled success for you. Common Fatty Acids Table 1 HO HO HO HO Stearic Acid (Saturate) Relative Oxidation Rate = 1 Oleic Acid (Monoene) Relative Oxidation Rate = 1 Linoleic Acid (Polyunsaturate) Relative Oxidation Rate = 1 Linolenic Acid (Polyunsaturate) Relative Oxidation Rate = 2 2
3 FLORASUN High Oleic Safflower Grape Seed -- Jojoba Sweet Almond Sesame Seed n f low er Mixing procedure provided upon request Numbers shown are percentages Graph 2 FLORASUN 9 vs. Traditional Sunflower FLORASUN1( LjY\alagfYdKmf^dgo]jGad The genus of MORE STABLE > < LESS STABLE Helianthus annuus sunflower is derived % Polyunsaturates The impact of the high oleic content in FloraSun 9 is best understood as it relates to stability. Stability of an oil implies its relative resistance to oxidation. When the oil interacts with the oxygen in the air, the oil deteriorates and forms by-products. These byproducts are usually aldehyde and shortchain acids, such as formic and acetic acids. These compounds can be irritants and most certainly produce strong, rancid odors. The process of oxidation cannot be eliminated except by the exclusion of oxygen or in other words, absence of air. The rate of oxidation can be influenced by several factors including exposure to light, temperature, the oil s fatty acid composition and the use of antioxidants. The chemistry of oxidation is complex and difficult to summarize. However, the resistance of FloraSun 9 to oxidation can be understood by examining the relative susceptibility of fatty acids to oxidation. Table 1 shows the relative oxidation rates of the most common fatty acids found in vegetable oils. % Monoenes and Saturates As you can see in Table 1, a vegetable oil made entirely of stearic acid would be the most stable. Unfortunately, as a fully saturated vegetable oil, it is a solid at room temperature with a melting point above 6 C. In order to create a natural liquid at ambient temperature, unsaturation or double bonds in the fatty acid structure are required. Table 1 reveals a very stable, unsaturated oil would be composed entirely of oleic acid, but the inclusion of even a small amount of polyunsaturates dramatically decreases the oil s stability. Graph 2 compares the natural oleic content of Traditional Sunflower to FloraSun 9 and also illustrates the polyunsaturate level in each oil. With less than 5% total polyunsaturates, FloraSun 9 can be predicted to be significantly more stable than traditional sunflower oil and other sunflower oil products with > 5% polyunsaturate. from the Greek helios meaning sun, and anthos meaning flower. The Spanish name for sunflower, girasol, and the French word, tournesol literally mean turn with the sun. This trait, called heliotropism, is exhibited by sunflowers until after full bloom, after which the heads face east.
4 Stability and Shelf Life Because it is an important guide to product performance and shelf life, there are many reasons to choose oils that are highly resistant to oxidation. The traditional method for accelerated analysis of oil stability has been the Active Oxygen Method (AOM) which is based on peroxide value. However, after a long history of development, a new, superior, automated instrument provides an Oxidative Stability Index (OSI) which has been shown to produce more reliable and reproducible results than the AOM. Graph depicts the oxidative stability of various cosmetic oils according to OSI hours.* You will notice here that FloraSun 9 is the most stable oil with few exceptions, such as macadamia oil. *IO-2 OSI hours are approximate to one year of shelf life. For centuries, people in the Middle East have used oils high in monounsaturated oleic acid to combat skin dehydration and reduce hair damage caused by arid Although the addition of mixed natural tocopherols (natural Vitamin E) to FloraSun 9 creates a synergistic effect, the same result does not occur with common oils. As an example, we added up to 5 ppm (%) tocopherols to traditional sunflower, apricot, and high-oleic safflower oil. Yet, adding this high level of antioxidant increases the oxidative stability index only slightly. In contrast, FloraSun 9 with 1 ppm natural tocopherols gave an oxidative stability index of 59 hours nearly ten times that obtained from traditional sunflower oil loaded with antioxidants. Graph 4 illustrates the futility of adding tocopherols to other common vegetable oils, in an attempt to obtain stability equivalent to FloraSun 9. conditions. Their intuition told them what we now know about the tendency of skin cells to minimize the accumulation Floramac Macadamia Florasun 9 Oxidative Stability Index Graph of polyunsaturated acids to protect against free radical formation and cellular damage. Oleic acid is the major fatty acid in FloraSun 9 and is also common in the natural oils produced by skin glands. This fatty acid similarity is the basis for a natural affinity that allows for easy absorbency without the greasy feeling Babassu Jojoba Squalane Safflower (high oleic) Apricot Kernel Mink (light) Sesame Seed Almond Avocado Rice Bran Wheat Germ Canola Sunflower (traditional) Grape Seed Borage Evening Primrose Generally stable for use in cosmetics Generally unstable for use in cosmetics OSI Hours typical of other oils Method - AOCS cd 12b-92
5 1 FloraSun 9 High-oleic Safflower Apricot Traditional Sunflower Ingredient Claims: 5 Extended shelf life of products To c o p h e r o l s A d d e d ( p p m ) FloraSun 9 vs Common Vegetable s 1 Massage Stability with Increased Levels of FloraSun 9 Massage Formulas Comparison Test Version: 5 6,,, OSI (hours) 25 FLORASUN 9 22Oleic Safflower High Grape Seed Jojoba 1 Almond Sweet Sesame Seed To c o piiih e r o l s Mixing procedure provided upon request Natural emolliency Graph 5 O x i d a t i v e St a b i l i t y I n d ex ( h o u r s ) O x i d a t i v e St a b i l i t y I n d ex ( h o u r s ) FloraSun 9 vs Common Vegetable s O x i doa St Ii v(eh ostu ar sb)i l i t y I n d ex ( h o u r s ) Graph 4 I II VERSION FloraSun 9 vsstable Common Vegetable s 1 Ingredients % wt./wt.,,, FloraSun OSI (hours) Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol LjY\alagfYdKmf^dgo]jGad PPG- Myristyl Ether FLORASUN --Hydrogenated Castor9 Microcrystalline Wax High Oleic Safflower < LESS STABLE Cyclomethicone Grape Seed Cetyl Dimethicone Jojoba Predispersed Titanium Dioxide Sweet Almond 1. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Polyunsaturates Sesame Seed% Benzophenone- Elegant skin feel Non-comedogenicFloraSun 9 Even adding ---lower levels of FloraSun 9 of the stability resulted in improving the Graph 5 shows massage oil2significantly. 1. of the oils were replaced when most 9 inthe formula, stability with FloraSun 5 shownthan are percentages 7%. A9IVd d e d ( pincreased p mnumbers ) by more 1 5 Table 6,,,,9 FLORASUN1( 2 5 To c o p h e r o l s A d d e d ( p p m ) Massage Formulas Comparison Test Version: OSI (hours) FLORASUN MORE9 STABLE > 4. High Oleic Safflower 1. Grape Seed Jojoba 4.5 % Monoenes and Saturates 2.5 Sweet Almond Ethylhexyl Palmitate 5.5 Sesame Seed Mixing procedure provided upon request Numbers shown are percentages Water Mixing procedure provided upon request ByPreservative adding FloraSun 9 to your cosmetic formulation in place of less stable oils, you can improve the stability and Sodium Chloride. shelf life of your product while gaining excellent natural emolliency. Fragrance Table 6 shows the formulas used to compare the effect on oxidative by adding FloraSun 9 to a massagesunflower oil formulation. Mixing instructions providedstability upon FLORASUN request 9 vs. Traditional High-oleic Safflower Apricot Traditional Sunflower FLORASUN Traditional Sunflower Massag e9vs.formula s Comparison Test Sunscreen Formula Version: Non-greasy,9,,, FloraSun High-oleic Safflower 6 Apricot 95 Traditional Sunflower,,,,,,, Numbers shown are percentages FLORASUN 9 vs. Traditional Sunflower 5
6 6 Sunflower seeds originated in North America. The history of conventional sunflower usage by humans can be traced to the Hopi and other Native American tribes of the arid southwestern United States. In addition, settlers found Native American tribes in Virginia using sunflower oil in bread as early as 9. It is said that the wild sunflower of the western USA was a camp-following weed of North American natives. These weeds were the originators of the cultivated sunflower. Today the sunflower is second only to soybean as a worldwide source for vegetable oil. Applications FloraSun 9 offers strong marketing appeal and technical rationale because it is natural, botanical, renewable, biodegradable and has exceptional natural emolliency. Moreover, the absence of odor makes FloraSun 9 ideal for use in delicately fragranced aromatherapy and massage oil preparations. Jojoba Macadamia FloraSun 9 Cashew Nut Castor Avocado Almond Walnut Canola Apricot Kernel Soybean Sesame Seed Safflower Cotton Seed Grape Seed Evening Primrose Product Category Wheat Germ Rice Bran Typical Use Levels Color Comparison of Refined s Lovibond Yellow Lovibond Red Table 7 Graph Table 7 identifies some applications for FloraSun 9 and typical use levels. FloraSun 9 has an HLB requirement of approximately 6. As Graph 8 shows, FloraSun 9 is almost colorless, making it ideal for use in color cosmetics containing titanium dioxide and other pigments.
7 Ingredients Sunscreen Formula % wt./wt. FloraSun Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol 2. PPG- Myristyl Ether Hydrogenated Castor.75 Microcrystalline Wax 1.25 Cyclomethicone 4. Cetyl Dimethicone 1. Predispersed Titanium Dioxide. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 4.5 Benzophenone- 2.5 Ethylhexyl Palmitate 5.5 Water Preservative Sodium Chloride. Fragrance Mixing instructions provided upon request FloraSun 9 Nomenclature INCI Name: CAS Number: EINECS Number: JCIC Number: Packaging: Florasun 9 is REACH-Exempt Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed 19 Kg drum (standard) 17 Kg pail (available) Property Test Method Units Range Fatty Acid Composition AOCS* Ce 1e-91 area % Palmitic 16: 4 max Stearic 18: 5 max Oleic 18:1 85 min Linoleic 18:2 5 max Linolenic 18: max Refractive C AOCS Cc 7-25 n D Saponification Value AOCS Cd -25 mg KOH/g Specific Gravity AOCS Cc 1c Trans isomers AOCS Cd wt.% None detected Acid Value AOCS Cd d-6 mg KOH/g 1 max Color AOCS Cc 1e-92 Lovibond 5 /4.9R, 5Y max Iodine Value AOCS Cd 1d-92 or 1c-85 g/1 g Peroxide Value AOCS Cd 8-5 meq/kg 4 max Oxidative Stability 11 C AOCS Cd 12b-92 hours 5 min *American Chemists Society methods. Table 9 Sunscreen + Florasun 9 In addition to using FloraSun 9 as a natural replacement for mineral oil and less stable vegetable oils and esters, it has exceptional wetting properties and is an excellent choice in sunscreens. Table 9 demonstrates how high SPF numbers are achieved in a state-of-the-art, water-resistant, water-in-oil formulation, utilizing relatively low levels of chemical UV absorbers, augmented by ultrafine TiO 2 and cetyl dimethicone copolyol emulsifier. Table 1 It is quite likely that the sunflower was one of many desert botanicals from the southwest collected by early Spanish explorers and introduced in Europe where it rapidly became popular in gardens and as a source of food. The sunflower has since been developed into a commercialscale, oil-producing crop. Sunflowers were not widely cultivated in the United States in the past. However, due in part to several important breakthroughs in sunflower breeding and varietal improvement, planted acreage has rapidly expanded during the last decade. The latest development was the introduction of higholeic varieties of sunflowers. This important advancement is so unique that it has U.S. patent protection. 7
8 FloraTech 291 East El Prado Court Chandler, Arizona TEL FAX To find your local Floratech Sales Representative, visit: FloraTech global partners sharing Quality Innovation Service FloraTech has grown naturally, from the ground up. We started with a small jojoba oil mill in the Sonoran Desert near Apache Junction, Arizona. Over the past years we have grown into a modern botanical derivative research and manufacturing center in central Arizona. Our growth has been achieved by providing you, our customer, with products and services that reflect our industry leadership and dedication to Quality, Innovation and Service. While the information provided here is believed to be reliable, we do not guarantee its accuracy. Customers are encouraged to conduct their own tests with materials described herein. 1996, 2, 27 International Flora Technologies, Ltd. FloraTech, Floraesters, Florasun, Floramac, Florasolvs, Florabeads, florasomes, florapearls, floraspheres are registered trademarks of International Flora Technologies, Ltd. FloraTech Innovation is established by offering unique jojoba oil derivatives and specialty plant-derived cosmetic ingredients. FloraTech Service is delivered through an extraordinary international network of experienced cosmetic ingredient suppliers supported by our analytical and cosmetic laboratories. FloraTech Quality is managed in accordance with the ISO 91 standards as certified by the British Standards Institute. We are the first ISO 91 certified jojoba oil manufacturer. FloraTech s Quality Policy: Floratech will provide products and services to our customers and distributors that meet their requirements. We will continually improve the quality of our products and services, the Floratech culture, customer satisfaction and our ability to offer innovative new products. James H. Brown President
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