Pronalen Moisturizer-II

Transcription

1 Pronalen Moisturizer-II Honey Opuntia Pear Passion Fruit Honey; Opuntia, Pear, PassionFruit Sugars, organic acids Plant complex that can be included in cosmetic formulation to improve the external aspect of the skin, by maintaining and increasing the levels of cutaneous moisturization. PRONALEN MOISTURIZER-II (Cod ) Standardised aqueous extract. Titred % reducer sugars and % lactic acid. V04-12/ ,

2 BOTANY AND CHEMISTRY Honey is a product made by bees from nectar and pollen from plants. This product is essentially a concentrated aqueous solution of fructose and glucose, and also contains a highly complex blend of other carbohydrates, enzymes, amino acids, organic acids, minerals, aromatic substances, pigments, waxes, etc. Table 1 shows the majority compounds and their levels. Components Values (%) Water Fructose Glucose Saccharose Maltose Higher Sugars Nitrogen Minerals Free acids Lactones Total acids Table 1 The main sugars are fructose and glucose, and no other monosaccharides have been found as yet. Furthermore, more than 20 oligosaccharides have been identified (saccharose, maltose, isomaltose, maltulose, nigerose, turanose,...), with maltose being in the majority. The saccharose content in honey varies depending on its maturity. The oligosaccharide fraction is mainly determined by the plants that have been used to produce the honey. Honey contains free amino acids (mean value 100mg/100g dry extract), with proline the majority component of this fraction (50-80%). Gluconic acid is the majority acid in honey. This product is obtained by means of the enzymatic oxidation of glucose. Other acids are also present, such as lactic acid, citric acid and malic acid. Of the remaining components of honey, we would highlight the aromatic substances and the pigments. In honey, some 300 volatile compounds have been isolated, with chemical structures corresponding to aliphatic and aromatic acid esters, aldehydes, cetones and alcohols. We highlight methyl anthranilate and 3,9-epoxy-1,4(8)-p-mentadiene, which are typical of honey from citrics. On the other hand, little is known about the pigments in honey and the colour is attributed mainly to phenolic compounds. Opuntia - Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Miller (Cactaceae). A plant representative of arid or semi-arid regions, originally from the American Continent. The genus Opuntia gathers xerophilous, prickly, treelike plants reaching up to five metres in height and whose stalks, called cladodes, have been modified to store liquids and nutrients. The flowers are hermaphrodites, large and yellow or orange. The fruit are ovoid fleshy berries of which the epidermis is populated by small prickles and the pulp is always juicy with a large number of seeds. Opuntia contains a large amount of water ( %). On dry product contains 5.3 to 14.8% in protein, from 1.2 to 3.5% in lipids, from % in sugars and from 18.0 to 29.8 in mineral salts, mainly potassium, calcium and magnesium. It is important to mention the mucilage content (19% on dry product), of which the monomer composition is formed by arabinose, galactose, galacturonic acid, rhamnose, xilose and uronic acids. Other components that are characteristic of Opuntia are the organic acids such as malonic, malic, citric, forbic and pisicidic acids (p-hidroxybenzyl tartaric acid) and in minor concentration tartaric, lactic and succinic acids. V04-12/ ,

3 Pear - Pyrus communis L. (Rosaceae). A tree of Mediterranean climates and widely distributed around temperate regions, providing fruit (pears) that are used in foodstuffs. The chemical composition of these fruit depends to a large extent on their type and maturity. The basic components are sugars and organic acids, whereas the nitrogenated compounds and the lipids lie in the minority. Fructose is the majority sugar in the plant, which also contains glucose, saccharose, maltose, galactose, xilose and sorbitol. The organic acids present are malic acid and, in smaller proportions, citric, tartaric and oxalic acids. Most of the nitrogenated compounds are enzymes and free amino acids, and particularly lysine, leucine and phenylalanine, especially while the fruit is maturing. The vitamins are represented by A, B1, B2, C and nicotinic acid. Minerals include calcium, phosphorus and iron. Within the carotenoids are J-carotene, criptoxanthine and zeaxanthine. Phenolic compounds and anthocyans are also present. Finally, we highlight the aromatic compounds characteristic of each variety, with ethyl, propyl, butyl and hexyl acetates being the most frequent. Passionfruit - Passiflora edulis Sims. (Passifloraceae). A fruit originally from tropical America, now distributed around similar climatic areas where a large number of varieties are cultivated, most of which can be eaten. Although water is the majority component of this fruit, carbohydrates are the most abundant active principles. We highlight fructose, glucose and saccharose, the levels of which change one variety to another. The non-volatile organic acids are the other group of characteristic actives, with lactic acid, citric acid and malic acid in the majority. Finally, the aromatic fraction is characterised by the presence of esters (ethyl butyrate, ethyl hexanoate, hexyl butyrate and hexyl hexanoate). Table 2 shows the components of PRONALEN MOISTURIZER-II that are responsible for the cosmetic action. Components Honey Opuntia Pear Passionfruit Actives Sugars, Acids (Gluconic, Lactic, Citric, Malic) Sugars, Mucilages, Acids ( Citric, Malic, Tartaric, Lactic) Acids (Citric, Malic, Tartaric) Acids (Lactic, Citric, Malic) Table 2 COSMETIC PROPERTIES The skin s appearance depends on its general state and especially on the moisturization of the stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis. This degree of hydration varies from one individual to another, between skin types and the treatment we provide. There are two types of water in skin, Transepidermic water: this is the water from the blood circulation. Through the dermis, it crosses the different layers of the epidermis and flows out, this being a dynamic process. This water flow is essential, as the epidermis is not irrigated by the blood circulation and is a vector of the nutrients needed for the synthesis brought about in the keratinocytes. V04-12/ ,

4 Retained water: this is the water between the lipidic bilayers of the skin and the interior of the corneocytes. It corresponds to a static water state and maintains the mechanical properties of the stratum corneum. This static hydration is used to increase the plasticity of the epidermis and to increase the hydrophilous properties of the keratins. The loss of water causes an alteration in the bio-mechanical properties of the stratum corneum, which loses flexibility, becomes brittle and flaky and exfoliates more quickly. The term moisturization identifies a process by which the skin and its appendages increase water levels. To attain this, the skin must be treated with active ingredients capable of maintaining and increasing these hydric levels. Moisturising cosmetic actives may be divided into different groups depending on their benefit for the skin (table 3). Cosmetic Ingredient Emollient Occlusive Humectant Film former Effect on the skin Flexibility, lubrication, smoothness Barrier effect, reduction of water evaporation Greater flexibility and extensibility, plasticity Smoothness, reduction of TEWL Table 3 PRONALEN MOISTURIZER-II is presented as a plant cosmetic active able to be included in cosmetic formulation to avoid, improve and increase the skin s water content. The regulation of the hydration is achieved thanks to the components of PRONALEN MOISTURIZER-II that act, by adsorbing water by establishing hydrogen bonds with water by forming a protective film on the skin. The most characteristic physical property of the monosaccharides (glucose and fructose) is hygroscopicity. This property is characterised by the adsorption of water by these components, so we obtain a maintenance, and in more extreme cases, a recovery of the water level of the stratum corneum. Furthermore, these types of compounds are relatively stable in the interval of ph=3-7, which makes them compatible with the fruit acids present. The oligosaccharides (maltose and saccharose, mainly) present the same water retaining ability as the monosaccharides. The sugars present form links of the hydrogen bond, avoiding the massive loss of water and avoiding loss of water. At the same time, these kinds of compounds form a protective film on the skin, which prevents and delays the transepidermic water loss. The sugars come mainly from the Honey which, together with the mucilages in the Opuntia, exercise this filmogenic effect. V04-12/ ,

5 The amino acids and mineral salts are substances which, due to their hygroscopic nature, are capable of absorbing and retaining the water in the stratum corneum and therefore, maintaining the hydric balance in this layer. Among the group of actives characteristic of Pronalen Moisturizer-II are the fruit acids (Pear, Passion Fruit) (table 3). These organic acids act in the stratum corneum, reducing the cohesion between the corneocytes and the thickness of the stratum corneum. Dehydrated skin thickens due to the lack of flaking in the stratum corneum. The acids present in Pronalen Moisturizer-II intervene in the flaking process of the stratum corneum, supervising its correct development and preventing hyperkeratinisation. By way of summary, we could conclude that PRONALEN MOISTURIZER-II would act as a cosmetic active due to its film former effect and humectant ability. RECOMMENDED DOSE Moisturizer treatments %. EFFICACY TEST The water present in the stratum corneum and located in the intracellular spaces acts as a transmitter element capable of defining a measurable characteristic capacitance on the cutaneous surface. By means of non-invasive biophysical techniques, we can measure these free water values and see the levels of cutaneous moisturization and the efficacy of treatment with moisturizer products. To measure this cutaneous hydration, we use a Corneometer (CM825 Courage & Khazaka) which registers the capacitance values on the surface of the skin. The efficacy test was designed as an experimental, randomised, double blind study. The type of measurement carried out was punctual on a predetermined area (forearm). We started with 12 patients, of which 4 were men and 8 women. Each volunteer had two formulations to test. Volunteers applied formula P (placebo) on the left forearm and formula A on the right. The test was begun by taking the base reading of the area under treatment (forearm) and then taking a further reading after five days, at the end of the treatment. The interviewees carried out daily application and the reading was taken two hours after application, keeping the individual at rest for 30 minutes before taking the reading, at 20ºC and with a relative humidity of 60-70%. The products tested were, Gel A: hydroxyethylcellulose gel containing 10% PRONALEN MOISTURIZER-II Gel B: hydroxyethylcellulose gel-placebo. V04-12/ ,

6 Table 1 shows the values obtained with the Corneometer for each individual. Volunter Placebo Active PI PF AI AF Mean We can see that the treatment with the active caused an increase in the final mean value, whereas the placebo caused the opposite effect. A statistical test was applied (T de Sudent for coupled data) to evaluate the difference between the Relative Moisture values of the placebo with respect to the active. The results obtained show an increase of 14.7% (p<0.05) in the moisturization of the stratum corneum. Figure 1 shows the results obtained as an increase in hydration (%) caused by the active against the placebo. % Moisturization Average moisturization 14.7% nº patients BIBLIOGRAPHY Stintzing, F.C. et al. Planta Medica (1999) 65, (ref. 3600) Rieger, M. Cosmetics&Toiletries (1998) 113 (9), (ref. 2803) Jiménez, Mª M. et al. Industria Farmacéutica (1998), 13, (ref. 2742) Barbagallo, R.N. et al. Industrie delle Bevande (1998) XXVII, (ref. 3078) Park, E.H. et al. Arch. Pharm. Res. (1998) 21 (1), (ref. 3077) Feitosa Teles, F.F. et al. Revista Ceres (1997) 44 (252), (ref. 3079) V04-12/ ,

7 Hall, M. Prof. Nurse (1997) Apr; 12(7): (ref. 2562) Smith, W.P. Int. J. Cosmet Sci. (1996) 18: (ref. 315) Perfumi, M. et al. Fitoterapia (1996) 57, 5, (ref. 2121) Marcel Dekker Inc. Handbook of fruit science and technology; production, composition, storage and processing. Edited by D.K. Salunkhe, S.S. Kadam (1995) New York. Domínguez, A. Food Sci Tecnol. Int. (1995) 1, (ref. 3080) Feitosa Teles, F.F. et al. Revista Ceres (1994) 41 (238), (ref. 3076) Scholz, D. et al. Int. J. Cosmet Sci. (1994) 16: (ref. 697) Noll, R. Cosmet. Toilet. (1994) 109, 6, (ref. 266) Sala, A. El Farmacéutico (1992) (ref. 3533) Carreras E. et al. Cir. Far. (1991), 312; (ref. 1752) Bhat, K. Herbolario Tropical (1991) Ed. Texto. (Caracas). Bezanger-Beauquesne, L. et al. Plantes Médicinales des régions tempérées Ed. Maloine (1990). Paris R. C.R. Acad. Sc. (1951), 239, V04-12/ ,