Sodium Methyl Acyl Taurates Give High Performing Sulfate-Free Personal Cleansing Systems. Dr. Tony Gough

Transcription

1 Sodium Methyl Acyl Taurates Give High Performing Sulfate-Free Personal Cleansing Systems Dr. Tony Gough

2 Current Trends in Global Cleansing Products Sulfate-free cleansing products there is a growing consumer trend of moving to sulfate-free cleansers due to perceived benefits of these over sulfatesurfactant based systems. Busy lives, busy schedules multifunctional and multi-step regimes. Skin masks for glowing skin. ph optimised products products with a low ph especially for atopic / sensitive skin. Novel textures and sensory experiences products with interesting skin feel on application, e.g. mousses, oils, creams, etc, and foaming characteristics. Anti-pollution and depolluting products pollution is said to cause wrinkles and premature aging. More natural ingredients move to greener and more sustainable surfactants. Less harmful preservatives reduction in the use of isothiazolinones, etc, and increase use of organic acids and multi-functional ingredients with preservative action.

3 Sulfate-Free Product Launches Shampoo & Skin Cleansers 1,200 1, Middle East & Africa Latin America Asia Pacific North America Europe Data from Mintel

4 Main Sulfate-Free Surfactant Options for Formulators Innospec supplies Polar Head Class EO Origin Inorganic Sulfate Hydrophobe Origin Foam Optimum ph Irritancy (Skin and Eye) Ease of Formulation Thickening PRODUCT Acyl Methyl Isethionates Iselux Yes SO3 Anionic N Trace/Low Nat Excellent 5-9 Moderate Easy Betaine/Salt Sodium Methyl Acyl Taurates Pureact WS Yes SO3 Anionic N Trace/Low Nat Moderate 3-11 Moderate Mod Betaine/Salt Acyl Isethionates Pureact I-series (SCI) and Pureact SLI Yes SO3 Anionic Y Trace/Low Nat Excellent Moderate Dif External Alkyl Ether Carboxylates Pureact Alkyl Ether Carboxylates and Empicol Alkyl Yes COO Anionic Y N Nat Moderate >5.5 Mild Easy External Ether Carboxylates Acyl Glycinates Pureact SLG and Pureact SCG Yes COO Anionic N N Nat Excellent >6.5 Mild Easy External Alkyl amphoacetates and Alkyl amphodiacetates Pureact LAA, and Empigen alkyl amphoactetates and alkyl amphodiacetates Yes COO Amphoteric N N Nat Moderate >5 Moderate Easy External Alpha Olefin Sulfonates Nansa LSS 38 Yes SO3 Anionic N Y Syn Excellent 3-11 Harsh Easy Betaine/Salt APG's Pureact Gluco range Alkyl Betaines and Alkylamidopropyl Betaines Empigen betaines Sarcosinates Pureact LSR Alkyl and Alkyl Ether Sulfosuccinates Pureact MD-318, Empicol SDD /O and Empimin OT Yes NA Nonionic N N Nat Low Mild Easy External Yes COO Amphoteric N N Nat Moderate >5 Moderate Easy External Yes COO Anionic N N Nat Moderate 4-10 Moderate Easy External Yes SO3 Anionic N/Y Y Nat Moderate Mild Easy External Acyl Glutamates Pending COO Anionic N N Nat Moderate 4-10 Mild Easy External Fatty Acid Soaps No COO Anionic N N Nat Moderate >6 Harsh Easy External Sulfoacetates No SO3 Anionic N Y Nat Moderate 3-11 Moderate Dif Betaine/Salt Sultaines No SO3 Amphoteric N Trace/Low Nat Moderate 3-11 Moderate Easy External

5 Sodium Methyl Acyl Taurates Pureact WS and MS Series Sulfate-free anionic surfactant. Excellent foaming in the presence of sebum (cocoyl). Thicken with amphoterics and salt, particularly at low ph. O R N O S O O- Na + Stable over broad ph ranges (3-11) can be used to make low ph shampoos and facial washes. Cocamide MEA/DEA replacement (Oleoyl). Natural hydrophobe origins (Coconut/Soy). Relatively mild to skin and eyes (especially with co-surfactants). Main Uses: Facial washes, low ph anti anti-acne treatments, high ph fatty acid soap formulations, intimate hygiene, hair dyes, low ph shampoos.

6 Formulating Sulfate Free: Optimum ph Range Innospec Surfactants ph range at which organic acid preservatives and their systems are effective Pureact LSR Pureact SCG / SLG ph Pureact I Grades Iselux Pureact WS & MS Grades Pureact Gluco Grades Nansa LSS Grades

7 Considerations When Formulating: ph Popular Sulfate-Free Anionic Surfactants ph Stability Range Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate Sodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Sodium Methyl Cocoyl or Oleoyl Taurate Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

8 Innospec Taurate Surfactant Product Range (Pureact WS and Pureact MS) Trade Name INCI Name Form Activity ph Stablity Pureact WS Conc Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Paste 31*% 3-11 Pureact WS-70 Pureact WS Pureact WSP Pureact MS-CG Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate 2 Phase Liquid 21.5*% 3-11 Paste 21.5*% 3-11 Powder 73*% 3-11 Viscous Liquid / Paste 31*% 3-11 Unique to Innospec easy to handle grade Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate (SMCT) Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate (SMOT) *Typical Product Activity (not intended for specification)

9 Advantages of Pureact WS-70 Can be used in cold processes. Significantly easier to handle, no worry of set up of product in transfer lines during addition to mixing tank. Significant reduction in manufacturing time. Reduction or removal of hotbox/drum heater requirements. No hazards associated with dust. Preservative-free.

10 Commercial Examples Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

11 Foam Height / mm Foam Performance of Pureact WS Conc Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate vs SLES-2EO Ross-Miles Foam Height Foam Appearance (Microscope) Pureact WS Conc SLES-2EO SLES-2EO 150 Initial 5 Mins 1% w/w surfactant + 1% Synthetic sebum (from patent US ), 40 0 C, ph 6.0. Pureact WS Conc

12 Thickening of Pureact WS and Pureact MS Surfactant Systems A large range of viscosities, rheological profiles, foam appearance and foam textures are possible with Pureact WS and Pureact MS surfactant systems. Pureact WS (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) and Pureact MS (Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate) can be thickened with amphoteric surfactants (e.g., CAPB, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, etc) and electrolyte (e.g., NaCl). Electrolyte thickening profiles and foam properties can be further modified/enhanced with addition of one or more tertiary co-surfactants such as alkyl polyglucosides, isethionates, sulfonates, glycinates, glutamates, etc) Addition of tertiary co-surfactants to Pureact WS and Pureact MS systems can also reduce the level of NaCl required to achieve viscosity and thereby give stability with performance benefit agents such as cationic conditioning polymers. Pureact WS and Pureact MS systems are also compatible with all of the popular rheology modifiers for thickening with these, if needed.

13 Viscosity / 20 C Electrolyte Thickening of Pureact WS Conc/CAPB Systems Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate 6% Active CAPB (Topped Fatty Acid) % Active CAPB (Topped Fatty Acid) % Active CAPB (Topped Fatty Acid) % NaCl 10% Active Pureact WS Conc + Cocamidopropyl Betaine (ph 5.0)

14 Viscosity / 20 C Electrolyte Thickening of Pureact WS Conc & Iselux & CAPB Systems (ph 5.0) % Iselux, 3% Pureact WS Conc, 3% CAPB 4.5% Iselux, 4.5% Pureact WS Conc, 3% CAPB 3% Iselux, 6% Pureact WS Conc, 3% CAPB % Iselux, 3% CAPB % Pureact WS Conc, 3% CAPB Salt / %w/w

15 Viscosity / 20 C Electrolyte Thickening of Pureact WS Conc/ CAPB/ Tertiary Surfactant Systems Continued Pureact Gluco L (Lauryl glucoside) Pureact Gluco C (Coco glucoside) Pureact Gluco D (Decyl glucoside) Control % NaCl 10% Active Pureact WS Conc + 6% CAPB + 3% Co Surfactant (ph 5.0)

16 Crystal Clear Feminine Hygiene Wash S0190 Trend: Low ph and alternative preservation INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) Amount / % w/w Aqua q.s. to 100 Glycerin 2.0 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Pureact WS-70 (Innospec) 10.0 Lauryl Glucoside Pureact Gluco L (Innospec) 12.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Empigen BS/H50 (Innospec) 6.0 PCA Glyceryl Oleate Dermofeel P-30 (Dr Straetmans) 1.0 Sodium Anisate (and) Sodium Dermosoft 1388 ECO (Dr 3.0 Leuvinate, Glycerin Straetmans) Citric Acid q.s. to ph 5.5 Lactic Acid (80%) q.s. to ph Properties Appearance: Clear, viscous liquid ph: Viscosity*: 4,000 8,000 cps Stability: Pass 8 weeks, 45 C, 25 C 5 C, 3 F/T cycles *Brookfield 20rpm, 20ºC, #5 spindle

17 Viscosity / 20 C Electrolyte Thickening of Pureact WS Conc/ CAPB/ Tertiary Surfactant Systems Pureact SCG Pureact MS-CG Nansa LSS /38 AV Control % NaCl 10% Active Pureact WS Conc + 6% CAPB + 3% Co Surfactant (ph 5.0)

18 The Big Apple Cleansing Gel S0189 Trend: Low ph, kind to skin INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) Amount / % w/w Aqua - q.s. to 100 Sodium Polyitaconate Velasoft (Itaconix) 2.0 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Pureact WS Conc (Innospec) 8.0 Lauryl Glucoside Pureact Gluco L (Innospec) 4.0 Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate Pureact MS-CG (Innospec) 4.0 Sodium C14-C16 Olefin Sulfonate Nansa LSS 38 / AV (Innospec) 4.0 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Pureact LSR (Innospec) 1.5 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Empigen BS/FA (Innospec) 10.0 Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Pomette (Azur Fragrances) 0.5 Acid Green 25 CI Yellow 3 CI Citric acid 50%w/w - q.s.to ph Sodium Chloride - q.s. to 8,000-12,000cps (max 2.0%) Properties Appearance: Clear, Green, Viscous Liquid ph: Viscosity: 8,000 12,000 cps Stability: 3 Months 45 C, 20 C, 5 C and 3 F/T cycles

19 Viscoisty / 20C Electrolyte Thickening of Pureact WS Conc & Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (ph 5) % Active SLAA Pureact LAA 4% Active SLAA 2% Active SLAA % NaCl 10% Active Pureact WS Conc + Pureact LAA

20 Considerations When Formulating Pureact WS Grades (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) With Cationic Conditioning Polymers Addition of high levels of electrolyte, e.g. sodium chloride, to thicken SMCT systems can cause precipitation of cationic polymers. However, use of hydrophilic rheology modifiers such as such as PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Methyl Glucose Caprate /Caprylate / Oleate or acrylate polymers such as carbomers to thicken instead of electrolyte can prevent the precipitation of cationic polymers. Precipitation of cationic polymers is more prevalent at low ph. The best ph to formulate clear systems with SMCT and cationic polymers But it can be done at lower ph s with careful formulating. Precipitation occurs more readily the higher the cationic charge and mwt of cationic polymers. Without the addition of tertiary co-surfactants formulations are not crystal clear unless the cationic polymer is used at low levels (c. 0.1%) 5% SMCT, 4.5% CAPB, 0.2% PQ-10 NaCl q.s. to 5,000cps Coacervate formed of PQ 10 and anionic surfactant, salted out of formulation 5% SMCT, 4.5% CAPB, 0.2% PQ-10 Glucamate DOE 120 q.s. 5,000cps No coacervate formed when rheology modifier is used to thicken

21 Obtaining Clear Systems When Formulating Pureact WS Grades (Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate) With Cationic Conditioning Polymers Addition of anionic tertiary co-surfactants such as isethionates (Iselux ), sarcosinates (Pureact LSR), sulfonates (Nansa LSS 38/AV) can help prevent coacervate precipitation, when cationic polymers are used. This benefit occurs over broad ph range. Addition of the tertiary co-surfactants also increases the clarity tolerance of the systems, enabling some NaCl to be used for thickening. Examples: 5% SMCT, 3.0% SLMI, 4.5% CAPB, 0.2% PQ-10 NaCl q.s. 5,000cps 5% SMCT, 3.0% C14-C16 AOS, 4.5% CAPB, 0.2% PQ-10, Glucamate DOE 120 q.s. 5,000cps 5% SMCT, 3.0% SL Sarcosinate, 4.5% CAPB, 0.2% PQ-10 Glucamate DOE 120 q.s. 5,000cps

22 Cleanse and Condition Colour Vibrant Shampoo H0070b Trend: Low ph for Coloured Hair INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) Amount / % w/w Aqua - q.s. to 100 Carbomer Carbopol Silk 100 (Lubrizol) 0.4 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Pureact WS Conc (Innospec) Sodium Lauryl Sarcosinate Pureact LSR (Innospec) 4.0 C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate Nansa LSS 38/AS 4.0 Coco-Glucoside Pureact Gluco C (Innospec) 4.0 (Sodium Hydroxide - q.s. to ph )* Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide Timeron Gold MP-127 (Merck) 0.25 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Empigen BS/FA (Innospec) 15.0 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Activsoft C-17 (Innospec) 0.2 Citric Acid - Trace Sodium Benzoate Salicylic Acid Fragrance Happy Baby (Azur Fragrances) 0.5 Citric Acid - q.s. to ph * To neutralise Carbomer at the appropriate stage during batch manufacture. Properties Appearance: Opaque pearlised, viscous liquid ph: Viscosity*: 11,000 14,000 cps Stability: 3 45 C, 25 C, 5 C and 3 F/T cycles

23 Clear high conditioning shampoo without cationic polymers - with Empigen S18 H0055b Trend: Low ph, quat-free conditioning shampoo for coloured hair. INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) Amount / % w/w Aqua - q.s. to 100 Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Natrlquest E30 (Innospec) 0.1 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Pureact WS CONC (Innospec) 22.0 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Empigen BS/FA (Innospec) 12.0 Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Empigen S18 (Innospec) 1.5 Salicylic Acid Sodium Hydroxide 25%w/w - q.s. to PEG 150 Distearate Protamate 6000-DS (Azelis) 0.2 Preservative - q.s. Menthol Sodium Chloride - q.s. to viscosity Properties Appearance: Crystal Clear, viscous liquid ph: Viscosity*: 10,000 15,000 cps Stability: 3 45 C, 25 C, 5 C and 3 F/T cycles

24 % Comb Force Reduction Compared to Control Wet and Dry Combing Performance of Clear Conditioning Shampoo with Empigen S18 - H0055b Dry Wet Control formulation H0055b without Empigen S18

25 On Trend Formulations Innospec Stand F20 S0183 Multi-functional Creamy Cleansing Stick with Pureact I-80P, Iselux & Pureact WS Conc (soap-free) S0183 S0163 S0163 Fabulous Foaming Face Wash and Mask with Pureact SCG & Pureact WS Conc S0191 Lusciously Lemon Jelly Wash with Pureact WS Conc and Iselux S0192 Memory Foaming Shower Gel & Bubble bath for Kids with Pureact WS Conc & Pureact Gluco C S0192 S0191 S0160 Velvet Bubble Oil Body Wash with Pureact I-78 & Pureact WS Conc S0190 Crystal Clear, Feminine Care Wash with Pureact WS-70 & Pureact Gluco L S0160 S0190 H0070b H0070b Gentle Cleansing and Conditioning Sulfate-free Shampoo for Coloured Hair with Pureact WS-Conc, Nansa LS-38 AV, Pureact Gluco C & Pureact LSR

26 Velvet Bubble Oil Body Wash S0160 Trend: High oil, extra conditioning INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) Amount / % w/w Aqua - q.s. to 100 Glycerin Polyquaternium-10 Condicare PQ10-4 (Innospec) 0.2 Sodium Chloride Sodium Chloride 0.4 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Tego Betain F50 (Evonik) 12.0 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Pureact WS Conc (Innospec) 25.0 Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate Pureact I-78 Flake (Innospec) 10.0 Sodium Hydroxide Sodium Hydroxide (5%w/w) q.s. to ph Lauric Acid Edenor C (KemCare) 3.5 Stearic Acid Edenor C (KemCare) 3.5 Lauryl Alcohol Surfac C12/14 (Surfachem) 0.5 Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Sunflower Seed Oil (Seatons) 7.5 Sodium Benzoate Phenoxyethanol Benzyl Alcohol Fragrance Fragrance Light Orange Flower 1.0 Citric Acid Citric Acid 50%w/w q.s. to ph Properties Appearance: Opaque white viscous cream ph: Viscosity*: 8,000-12,000 cps Stability: 3 45 C, ambient, 5 C & 5 F/T Cycles *Brookfield 20rpm, 20ºC, #5 spindle

27 Fabulous Foaming Facial Wash and Mask S0163 Trend: Multifunctional INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) Amount / % w/w Aqua - q.s. to 100 Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate Laponite XLG (BYK) 1 Glycerin - 10 Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Pureact WS Conc (Innospec) 12.5 Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate Pureact SCG (Innospec) 12.5 Sorbitol Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate Natrlquest E30 (Innospec) 0.2 Kaolin Stearic acid - 6 Palmitic acid 3 PEG 150 Distearate Rewopal 6000 DS (Evonik) 0.8 Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide Flamenco Supreme Sparkle (BASF) 0.25 NaOH 25% w/w - q.s. to ph Fragrance Benzyl Alcohol (and) Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone Euxyl K100 (Schülke & Mayr GmbH) 0.1 Properties Appearance: Opaque white viscous cream ph: Viscosity*: 30,000 50,000 cps Stability: 3 45 C, ambient, 5 C & 5 F/T Cycles *Brookfield 20rpm, 20ºC, #5 spindle

28 Interesting Formulations and Textures Possible with Iselux Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate Bubblegum Jelly Wash S0172 Bubble Scrub Butter S0132a Shake, Shower and Shave Shower Gel S0168 Gently Exfoliating Shower Gel S0179 Ultra Mild Baby Bath Cleanser AC235 Good to Go, Shampoo Bar H0061 Trio of Oils Hair and Body Wash S0128 Micellar Water Intensive care argan oil cream shampoo H0060 Sweet Cheeks Soufflé Cleanser S0161 Transparent Luxury Cleansing Bar For Face and Body S0152 Super Luxe Transparent Foaming Shower Oil S0131a Zesty Sorbet Scrub S0119a

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