Tailoring Surfaces for Cosmetic Innovation

Transcription

1 Tailoring Surfaces for Cosmetic Innovation

2 Gelest, Inc. 11 East Steel Rd. Morrisville, PA (General) (Order Entry) Fax: Website: Yellow Iron Oxide Black Iron Oxide Red Iron Oxide Mica Talc Titanium Dioxide 2011 Gelest, Inc.

3 Tailoring Surfaces for Cosmetic Innovation Tailoring Surface chemistry of pigments and powders provides robust, permanently modifi ed behavior, expanding formulation latitude in personal care. Gelest has the unique ability to synthesize specialty silanes and silicones and employ these materials as reactive surface treatments to tailor properties of surfaces. This surface chemistry has demonstrated exceptional performance in color cosmetic and skin care applications. Stable throughout the range of physiological ph Precise Surface Energy Control Water Repellent Hydrophobic Water Dispersible Hydrophilic Oil and Water Repellent Oleophobic and Hydrophobic Balanced Lipophilicity Stable Interaction with siloxane, organic and aqueous phases Dispersion and Rheological Control Lubricious Tactile Effect Gelest offers four novel surface treatments that can be applied to a variety of inorganic structures including siliceous and non-siliceous powders and pigments. Gelest SS Silky Slip Gelest HS Hydrosperse Gelest SD Super Durable Gelest ML Maximum Loading

4 Tailoring the Particle to the Formula Gelest has the unique capability to create new chemistry to modify the surface characteristics of particles, allowing a match to specific application requirements. Utilizing novel organosilicon compounds synthesized at Gelest, a series of surface modified pigments have been developed to address the changing formulation requirements of color cosmetics. Innovative Particle Functionalization Gelest provides micro-particle modifications that dramatically enhance: Color Polarity Adhesion Dispersion Rheological Behavior Photochemical, Thermal Stability Talc Phlogopite Kaolinite i Titanium ium Dioxide ide Red Iron Oxide Muscovite Inputs Physical Considerations Chemical Considerations Particle SILICEOUS natural synthetic NON-SILICEOUS natural synthetic SPECIALTY metallic fluorescent luminescent phosphorescent Physical Properties Density Aspect Ratio Surface Area Contact Angle Chemisorption Electrophoretic Mobility Pore Size & Volume Particle Size Distribution Surface Properties Oleophilicity Oleophobicity Zeta Potential Hydrophilicity Hydrophobicity Lubricity Bonding Mechanisms Ionic Bonding Metallic Bonding Covalent Bonding Aromatic Bonding Hydrogen Bonding Acid Base Interactions Crystallinity Modification Wetting & Surface Area Effects Surface Functionalization CH 3 O Hydrolysis Condensation of Oligomers Hydrogen Bonding Bond Formation R R 2 RSi(OH) R R R 3 H 2 O 3 Si OCH 3 HO Si OH HO Si O Si O Si OH OCH 3 3 CH 3 OH OH 2 H 2 O OH OH OH OH OH OH OH R R R HO Si O Si O Si OH O O O H H H H H O O H O OH 3 H 2 O HO R Si O R R O Si O O O OH OH Vehicle Interaction R R R HO Si O Si O OH O O O OH

5 Gelest SS Silky Slip INCI NAME: Stearyl Triethoxysilane The stearyl silane imparts the excellent wetting properties of the shorter chain silanes with more emollient skin feel in powders and dispersed systems. SS KEY PERFORMANCE BENEFITS Lubricious skin feel and aesthetics Enhanced compressibility in pressed powders Water repellency Improved wetting and dispersion capability Improved skin adhesion Enhanced cushion due to treatment melt point similar to skin temperature SS treated powders are hydrophobic and resist wetting by water. (Ultramarine Blue SS) RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS Loose Powders Pressed Powders Water-in-Silicone Foundations Water-in-Oil Foundations Powdercream products Sunscreens Water Drop on Untreated Glass Surface Water Drop on SS Surface Treated Glass Surface FORMULATIONS SS Creamy Pearlescent Eye Shadow SS pigments create a creamy feel and aid compression, coverage and color development. Ingredient INCI Name % Gelest SS Pigments Stearyl Triethoxysilane TA7-SSA Talc SS SAA-SSA Sericite SS Manganese Violet SS 4.00 Zinc Stearate 921-G (Brenntag) 5.00 Sodium Benzoate 0.20 Gelest SS treated Pearlescent Pigments Cloisonné Blue (BASF) Spectraflex Focus Red (Sun Chemical) 4.40 SiBrid DE-23 (Gelest) Polydiethylsiloxane 3.50 Ceraphyl ODS (ISP) Octyldodecyl Stearate

6 FORMULATIONS Creamy Long Wearing Pearlescent Eye Shadow SD treated pearl aids compression and improves wear. SS pigments create a creamy feel and aid compression. Ingredient INCI Name % Gelest SS Pigments Stearyl Triethoxysilane TA7-SSA Talc 6.50 Manganese Violet SS Black Iron Oxide SS Carmine SS 2.50 Zinc Stearate 921-G (Brenntag) 2.50 Sodium Benzoate 0.20 Gelest SD treated Pearlescent Pigment: Cloisonné Violet (BASF) SiBrid DE-23 (Gelest) Polydiethylsiloxane 3.00 Ceraphyl 368 (ISP) Ethylhexyl Palmitate Long Wearing Water-in-Silicone Foundation DE-12 polydiethylsiloxane is a light emollient, providing excellent spreading and blending that also is an excellent vehicle for wetting and dispersing the pigments. Gelest SS treated pigments create an exceptionally creamy feel. Ingredient INCI Name % Aqueous Phase Deionized Water Magnesium Sulfate 0.20 Butylene Glycol 6.00 Benzoic Acid 0.20 Oil Phase Velvesil 125 (Momentive) C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00 KF 6038(Shin-Etsu) Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethyl siloxyethyl Dimethicone SiBrid DE-12 (Gelest) Polydiethylsiloxane 5.00 Rhodasurf L-790 (Rhodia) Laureth Color Grind Gelest SS Pigments Stearyl Triethoxysilane WIA-SSA Titanium Dioxide SS 8.00 YIA-SSA Yellow Iron Oxide SS 1.20 RIA-SSA Red Iron Oxide SS 0.50 BIA-SSA Black Iron Oxide SS 0.20 TA7-SSA Talc SS 4.10 SiBrid DE-12 (Gelest) Polydiethylsiloxane

7 Gelest HS Hydrosperse INCI NAME (proposed): Sodium Carboxyethylsilanetriol Gelest Hydrosperse surface modification creates an anionic, hydrophilic reacted coating that provides instant dispersion in aqueous media without high shear agitation. HS KEY PERFORMANCE BENEFITS Improved wetting in aqueous systems Dispersion in water with low shear mixing Complete color development Higher tinting strength Capability to achieve high pigment loading Reduced tendency for color flotation and plate-out RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS Liquid Eye Liners Mascaras Oil in Water Foundations Water based Concealers untreated yellow iron oxide in water HS treated yellow iron oxide in water FORMULATIONS HS Velvety Concealer Hydrosperse (HS) pigments disperse without milling to give full coverage and color development. Ingredient INCI Name % Deionized Water Tween 60 Polysorbate Laponite XLG (Rockwood) Na Li Mg Silicate 0.30 Veegum reg Mg Al Silicate 0.70 Gelest HS pigments Sodium Carboxyethylsilanetriol WIA-HSA Titanium Dioxide HS YIA-HSA Yellow Iron Oxide HS 1.60 RIA-HSA Red Iron Oxide HS 0.60 BIA-HSA Black Iron Oxide HS 0.16 TA7-HSA Talc HS 1.64 Butylene Glycol 6.00 CMC 7H3SF (Aqualon) Cellulose Gum 0.10 Tween 60 (Croda) Polysorbate Methylparaben 0.25 Amphisol K (DSM) K Cetyl Phosphate 2.00 SiBrid DE-12 (Gelest) Polydiethylsiloxane Ceraphyl 368 (ISP) Ethylhexyl Palmitate 5.00 Span 60 (Croda) Sorbitan Stearate 1.00 Cerasynt SD (ISP) Glyceryl Stearate 1.50 Propylparaben 0.10 Glydant (Lonza) DMDM Hydantoin

8 Gelest SD Super Durable INCI NAME: Polymethylsilsesquioxane/ Trimethylsiloxysilicate SD pigments and fillers are coated with a hydroxyl terminated silsesquioxane network that improves adhesion to skin and hair. SD pigments are well suited for use in eye make-up formulations. They are hydrophobic, yet are not overly sensitive to oils including sebum. SD KEY PERFORMANCE BENEFITS Water repellency Low oil absorption Forms high solids dispersions Improves wear Improves skin adhesion Improves compressibility Recommended for long wearing eye area products RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS Mascara Eyeliner Pressed Powder Eye Shadow FORMULATIONS SD Waterproof Mascara The SD treated pigment increases water resistance and adhesion to the lashes while reducing the tendency to smudge. Ingredientz INCI Name % Permethyl Fluid 99A (Presperse) Isododecane AC Polyethylene 6A (Honeywell) Polyethylene Candelilla (Ross Wax) Euphorbia Cerifera Wax 4.50 Prisorine 3700 (Croda) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 0.25 Benzoic Acid 0.20 Pentaerythrityl Rosinate (Ashland) 2.00 Permethyl Fluid 99A Isododecane 2.00 Zinc Stearate 921-G (Brenntag) Zinc Stearate 1.00 SIS6962.1M30 (Gelest) Silica Silylate 1.00 Permethyl Fluid 99A Isododecane 8.00 BIA-SDA Black Iron Oxide SD (Gelest) Iron Oxides, Polymethylsilsesquioxane/ Trimethylsiloxysilicate Bentone Gel SS-71 Petroleum Distillates, Distearyldimonium Hectorite

9 Gelest ML Maximum Loading INCI NAME: Dimethicone PEG-3 Laurate ML surface treatments utilize a hydrophobic siloxane with an embedded polar segment that disrupts particle-particle interaction. The combination of alkyl and polyethylene glycol functional groups are balanced to maximize wetting in non-polar oils. ML KEY PERFORMANCE BENEFITS Highest pigment loading Excellent pigment wetting in oils Low oil absorption Water repellency Low viscosity dispersions Improved compressibility Maximizes color intensity untreated yellow iron oxide in ethylhexylpalmitate ML treated yellow iron oxide in ethylhexylpalmitate Dispersion viscosity of 65% red iron oxide in ethylhexylpalmitate RECOMMENDED APPLICATIONS Powdercream formulations Pencils Cream Eye Shadows Stick Eye Shadows VISCOSITY (cst.) FORMULATIONS 0 ML Silane (C12PEG3Si) Alkyl Silane (C8Si) Untreated ML Powdercream Concealer Compared to the same formulation prepared with alkyl silane treated pigments, a 10% higher pigment load is possible using ML treated pigments while maintaining a pourable melt. The high coverage formula applies as a cream yet has the dry feel of a powder. Ingredient (supplier) INCI Name % Ceraphyl 368 (Ashland) Ethylhexyl Palmitate Syncrowax HRC (Croda) Tribehenin 4.50 AMS C-30 (Dow Corning) C30-45 Alkyl Methicone 4.50 Performacol 425 (New Phase Technologies) C20-40 Alcohols 0.25 Benzoic Acid 0.10 Ascorbyl Palmitate 0.05 Color Grind Ceraphyl Cithrol PG3D2 (Croda) Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate 1.00 Bentone 38V (Elementis) Quaternium-18 Hectorite 0.20 Gelest ML pigments WIA-MLA Titanium Dioxide ML Titanium Dioxide, Dimethicone PEG-3 Laurate YIA-MLA Yellow Iron Oxide ML Iron Oxides, Dimethicone PEG-3 Laurate 2.50 RIA-MLA Red Iron Oxide ML Iron Oxides, Dimethicone PEG-3 Laurate 0.85 BIA-MLA Black Iron Oxide ML Iron Oxides, Dimethicone PEG-3 Laurate 0.18 TA7-MLA Talc ML Talc, Dimethicone PEG-3 Laurate SAA-MLA Sericite ML Mica, Dimethicone PEG-3 Laurate

10 Surface Modification Services Our custom surface modifi cation services allow users to select custom and proprietary treatments applied by a variety of deposition technologies on a wide range of fi llers and pigments. Our technical representatives are pleased to discuss the options available. Gelest also applies a variety of other standard surface modifi cations to pigments and fi llers. The following are examples of reactive silane and siloxane treatments that are INCI listed. Triethoxycaprylylsilane (AS series) Octyltriethoxysilane (chemical name) Hydrophobic without potential of hydrogen generation Perfluorooctylethyltriethoxysilane (FS series) Heptadecafl uorodecyltriethoxysilane (chemical name) Lipophobic and hydrophobic Resistant to acidic and alkali conditions Methoxy PEG-10 Propyltrimethoxysilane (PG series) Methoxypolyethyleneoxypropyltrimethoxysilane (chemical name) Hydrophilic Reduces viscosity of aqueous dispersions Silanetriol (MS series) Trihydroxymethylsilane (chemical name) Moderately lipophobic and hydrophobic Improved suspension Polydiethylsiloxane (DE series) DiEthicone (alternate name) Improves pigment dispersion in silicone/organic mixtures Developmental Products Gelest is in continuous development of advanced surface modifi cation chemistry, including amino-acid silanes. Contact us for more information. A fi rst example is the Gelest SF hydroxylproline modifi ed silanes. Gelest Skin Friendly (SF) Treatment INCI name (proposed): Acetyl Hydroxyprolylpropyltriethoxysilane Hydrophilic Amino Acid Treatment Improved affinity for the skin Increases moisture binding capability Firms skin Smooth skin feel Improves color development Mass tone/skin tone agreement Improves powder pressing

11 In USA For commercial and bulk quantities contact: Gelest, Inc. 11 East Steel Rd. Morrisville, PA (General) (Order Entry) Fax: Website: In Europe For commercial and bulk quantities contact: Gelest Ltd. 46 Pickering Street Maidstone Kent ME15 9RR United Kingdom Tel: +44(0) Fax: In Japan For commercial and research quantities contact: AZmax Co. Ltd. Tokyo Office Matsuda Yaesudori, Bldg F Hatchoubori, Chou-Ku Tokyo Tel: Fax: on-line catalog: In South-East Asia For commercial and research quantities contact: Gulf Chemical 39 Jalan Pemimpin Tai Lee Industrial Building #04-03 Singapore Tel: Fax: DISTRIBUTORS FOR COSMETIC INGREDIENTS: ROSS Inc Bell Ranch Drive Santa Fe Springs, CA Phone: (562) Fax: Website: Paradigm Science Inc. P.O. Box 363 Milford, NJ Phone: Fax: Website: See Gelest related product line: Hybrid Fluids for Personal Care

12 New and innovative silicon technologies will continue to deliver performance and aesthetic advantages for evolving cosmetic industry requirements. Gelest, Inc applies fundamental science and applied development in silicon chemistry and polymer technology to assist cosmetic chemists in meeting these demands. The results of these efforts have led to a commercial product line of truly unique cosmetic raw materials as well as custom materials developed jointly with individual customers. For additional information on Gelest s Surface Modifi cation Technology or to inquire on how we may assist in Enabling Your Technology, please contact: 11 East Steel Road Morrisville, PA Phone: Fax: sales@gelest.com