018 - Straw / Paper & Structured Wool only (e.g. Felt, Herringbone) Hat (Adults / Kids) Test Protocol
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1 Base test Quality & workmanship Workmanship Sample is checked for workmanship in "as received" condition and shall be free of major cosmetic defects. Sharp Edges test Sharp Points test Analytical / Chemical 16 CFR (d) (Modified) 16 CFR (d) (Modified) Modification: as-received condition only. Because this test is for items which fall outside the scope and age grade (under 8 years of age) of this section of the CFR, the result of this test is reported for reference only; the result is not rated. Sample is assessed in as-received condition only, and any nonfunctional hazardous sharp edges are noted. Modification: as-received condition only. Because this test is for items which fall outside the scope and age grade (under 8 years of age) of this section of the CFR, the result of this test is reported for reference only; the result is not rated. Sample is assessed in as-received condition only, and any nonfunctional hazardous sharp edges are noted. California Proposition 65 # Citation: California Health & Safety Code, Sec Phthalates #*^ (for soft plastic and Patent Leather / surface coating at leather / California Proposition 65 edge paint only; except waxed / coated cotton and dyed leather) PH Value# AATCC 81 Formaldehyde Spot Test# (Test for textile material only)(adult & Crewcuts) Formaldehyde quantitative test #* (If spot test is failed, JIS L1041 needs to proceed. If quantitative test fails then all additional colors should be tested for spot test first, then quantitative if spot test fails.) AATCC 94 JIS L1041 Method A or B All samples shall be reviewed against the requirements of the J. Crew California Proposition 65 protocol to determine if additional testing or labeling is required. Please refer to supplemental Prop 65 Protocol. All samples shall be reviewed against the requirements of the J. Crew California Proposition 65 protocol to determine if additional testing or labeling is required. Please refer to supplemental Prop 65 Protocol. Silk/ Wool/ Nylon: All others: Negative (Full package test only) Adults Method B Max.75ppm Children (Crewcuts) Method A 0.05 absorbance. labeling Care Labeling (TO BE PERFORMED ONLY IF A CARE LABEL IS SUBMITTED.) Citation: 16 CFR 423 Manufacturers and importers of textile wearing apparel and certain piece goods shall provide regular, reasonably based care instructions through care labels or other methods. Plastic Bag Suffocation Warning Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (TO BE PERFORMED ONLY IF A FIBRE LABEL IS SUBMITTED.) Citation: California Business & Professions Code, Sec , MA 105 CMR , 10 NY ADC 12.12, RI Code & VA Code CFR & 16 CFR Citation: Textile Fiber Products Identification Act Shall meet labeling and warning requirements for the states of California, Massachusetts, New York, Rhode Island, and Virginia. Textile fiber products shall be labeled in accordance with the requirements of the Act.
2 Fibre analysis Fiber Content AATCC 20/20A Physical Characteristics Crown Height (Inch) Measurement Tape measure within ±5% Crown Circumference (Inch) Measurement Tape measure within ±5% Total Weight (g) Measurement Analytical balance within ±5% Shrinkage / Appearnace (all knitted hat and washable/drycleanable woven hat) 3 Machine Wash AATCC 150 ±5% 3 Hand Wash JCTM0001 ±2% 1 Dry Clean Commercial Method per care label ±2% Must conform within ±3.0% of labeled claim (Blends); 0% (one fiber) Fibre recommendation : one recommendation is provided for all three markets (USA, Canada & EU) except Outlet Appearance after laundering/dry Cleaning TP - 95 / JCTM0001 / ISO : procedure B Garment, side panel After washing: Satisfactory, Pigment prints/pigments/denim/indigo: Color change 3.0; Others: Color change: 4.0; Add Color change rating (with fluorescence suppressor) if optical brightener is suspected to be one of the reasons for failure; Self-staining: 4.5; Pilling: Class 4.0; Skewness : Wovens: max. 3%, Knits: max. 5% After drycleaning: Satisfactory, Color change: 4.0; Self-staining: 4.5; Pilling: Class 4.0; Skewness : Wovens: max. 3%, Knits: max. 5% Colour Fastness (all knitted hat and washable/drycleanable woven hat) Laundering # AATCC 61 Chlorine Bleach # JCTM002 Color Change: 4.0 Non-Chlorine Bleach # JCTM003 Color Change: 3.0 Color change: 4.0; Staining: 3.0; Self-staining: 4.5 Pigment prints/pigments/denim/indigo: Color change 3.0; Staining: 3.0; Self-staining: 4.5 Drycleaning # AATCC 132 Color Change: 4.0, Color Staining: 4.0, Self-staining: 4.5 Care Label Verification/Recommendation ASTM D5489 According to J.Crew care code chart. Colour Fastness Crocking # AATCC 8/116 General: Dry 4.0, Wet 3.0 Dark colors: Dry 4.0, Wet 2.0 Pigments / Overdye / Garment Dye / Indigo Dye / Sulphur Black / Denim / Raised Fabrics (Corduroy, Velour, Velvet, Peached, Sanded, Brushed, Moleskin): Dry 3.0, Wet 2.0 Leather: Dry 3.0, Wet 2.0 Perspiration # AATCC 15 Color change: 4.0, Color Staining: 3.5, self staining: 4.5 Water # AATCC 107 Color Change: 4.0, Color Staining: 3.0, self-staining: 4.5 Light # AATCC 16.3 (Option 3) Color Change: 20 Hours
3 Flammability Flammability Exempt unless it covers for the neck, face or shoulders when worn by individuals Textile Flammability Regulation * Canada Consumer Product Safety Act All fabrication for J.Crew & Crewcuts in full fabric package 16 CFR PART 1610 CAN/CGSB-4.2 No.27.5 Hat is exempted in Standard for the Flammability of clothing textiles according to 16CFR Part (c) Hats, provided they do not constitute or form part of a covering for the neck, face or shoulders when worn by individuals. Without a raised fibre surface: > 3.5 seconds With a raised fibre surface that exhibits ignition or fusion of its base fibres: > 4 seconds Physical Performance Tensile Strength (Woven only) ASTM D5034 <5oz/yd² = 32 lbs >5oz/yd² = 40 lbs Tear Strength (Woven only) ASTM D2261 <5oz/yd² = 1.5 lbs 5oz but <8 oz/sq.yd = 2.4 lbs > 8oz/yd² = 3.0 lbs. Bursting Strength (Knit only) ASTM D lbs min. Seam Strength (Woven only) ASTM D lbs min Salt Spray Test: 5% Salt Solution, 12 hours UV Protection #* (Tested on hat with UV protection claim on application form) ASTM B117 (Modified) Year: 2011 AATCC 183 Modification: Changed from 24 hours to 12 hours. The item shall function as intended, and there shall be no corrosion or major discoloration after 12 hours of exposure to a 5% salt solution. Note: Metal components only With UPF claimed which is contributed by UPF treatment - Test at original and after ASTM D6544 Preparation of Textile Prior of Ultraviolet Transmission (40 washes FU Light Test + CF to Chlorinated Water) With UPF claimed but no UPF treatment i.e. contributed by fabric structure - Test at original stage only UV Protection Labeling UPF values 40 or greater - Excellent UV-protection Category UPF values between 25 and 39 - Very Good UV-protection Category UPF values between 15 and 24 - Good UV-protection Category
4 Adults: Additional Testing as required Total Lead Containing Paint/Surface Coating #*^ Safety Test For Crewcuts Small parts Sharp Accessible Edges Test Sharp Accessible Points Test Tension Test Torque Test CPSC-CH-E Citation: 16 CFR CFR & 16 CFR CFR CFR CFR CFR < or = 90 ppm NOTE: This method applies to all consumer products with wet paint and/or other similar surface coating materials that are outside the scope of 16 CFR Applicable products for children (including removable, liberated components or fragments of said products) shall not be small enough, without being compressed, to fit entirely within the small parts cylinder, before and after use and abuse testing. Shall have no accessible, potentially hazardous sharp edges before and after appropriate use and abuse testing. Shall have no accessible, potentially hazardous sharp points before and after appropriate use and abuse testing. Items intended for children 48 to 96 months (4-8 years) of age may contain accessible, potentially hazardous functional sharp points but are required to carry safety labeling. Functional sharp points are expressly prohibited in items intended for children under 48 months (4 years) of age. Any projection, or assembly that a child can grasp with at least the thumb and forefinger or the teeth shall be subject to this test. The tension test shall be performed on the same components subjected to the torque test described in torque test for kids. Tensile force 15 lbs. shall be applied evenly, within a period of 10 sec, parallel to the major axis of the test component. No detached, breakage or damage was found. Any projection, or assembly that a child can grasp with at least the thumb and forefinger or the teeth shall be subject to this test. 4 in.lbf for 10 Sec. 180 at clockwise and counter clockwise directions. No detached, breakage or damage was found. CPSIA Total Lead in Accessible Substrate Material: Non-Metal CPSC-CH-E Childrens Products *#^ Citation: 16 CFR CPSIA Total Lead in Accessible Substrate Material: Metal CPSC-CH-E Childrens Products & Jewelry *#^ Citation: 16 CFR Total Lead Containing Paint/Surface Coating *#^ Canada Analytical / Chemical (for Children only) Canada: Total Lead in Surface Coating Materials * CPSC-CH-E Citation: 16 CFR 1303 Max.100ppm Max.100ppm Max. 90 ppm 1) Wet paint and/or other similar surface coating materials 2) Toys and children's products that bear paint and/or similar surface coating materials 3) Furniture that bears paint and/or similar surface coating materials. Surface Coating on: Health Canada Method C02.2 1) Furniture and other articles for children: < or = 90 mg/kg (ppm) of total lead. Citation: Surface Coating Materials Regulations SOR/ ) Pencils and artists brushes: < or = 90 mg/kg (ppm) of total lead.
5 Additional Tests For J.Crew, Crewcuts & Madewell start from FA15 (Exclude Outlet) labeling EU: Latex EU: SVHC Declaration (If vendor cannot provide report / document, test will be conducted on request *) Physical Performance Small parts (after Tension test) * (for Crewcuts up to 14 years only) Small parts (for all trims largest dimension <3mm & all sequins) * (for Crewcuts up to 14 years only) Pom-Poms and Tassels (for Crewcuts - all ages) Citation: Regulation 1907/206, Article 56 (1) BS 7907 Annex B BS 7907 Annex C - durawash BS 7907 Section If the item contains any natural rubber latex, the following warning must be prominently displayed and visible at the point of sale: "WARNING. Contains latex" or similar wording with the same meaning. Alternatively, a statement should be issued to declare that no latex has been used in the item. A declaration from the manufacturer that no substances of very high concern (SVHC) are present in the item at >0.1% (w/w) needs to be available. Sequins are exempt from tension testing but require passing results to wash testing Largest dimension >6 mm : Min. 70N; Largest dimension >3 mm but 6 mm : Min. 50N; zipper - single stringer slider retention : Min. 60N Small parts should be failed regardless of age of sample submitted. all trims <3mm & sequins: must pass to wash test Satisfactory (Pass) : no component(s) has come off. Small parts should be failed regardless of age of sample submitted. NOTE: All Dry Clean label for Crewcuts will test Durawash in 40 C and tumble dry low (<60 C). Pom-poms and tassels constructed from cut lengths of yarn should not be used on garments for children aged under 36 months owing to the potential for fibres and yarns to be easily removed. Azo Dye Analysis #*^ (Test at all color fabric except white and PFD textile fabric) Flame Retardants (Per REACH Annex XVII) #* (100% Silk fabrication with fabric weight less than 20.3 momme or 2.6 oz/yd²) Chromium VI (No aging)*# - Leather only/all colorways (vegetable-tanned exempt): *This testing will be waived if a passing test report is received on bulk skins (with aging) or leather trim components (no aging). Cadmium *^# (Test at Plastic item/ All surface coatings) Textile method: BS EN Leather method: EN ISO Lab In-house method EN ISO Plastic item: BS EN 1122 All surface coatings: Lab In-house method <30 mg/kg Tris (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate : Not Detected Tris(aziridinyl)phosphinoxide : Not Detected Polybrominatedbiphenyls (PBB) : Not Detected Pentabromodipheny ether (PentaBDE) : <0.1% Octabromodipheny ether (OctaBDE) : <0.1% max. 3 mg/kg Coating : < or = 1,000 mg/kg Others : < or = 100 mg/kg Note: 1. Chromium VI testing with aging is strongly recommended during the bulk skins stage. This will help to identify failures & potential non-compliance on final product. Testing Chromium VI on final product (no aging) will be waived if passing results are received on bulk skins (with aging) or leather trim components (no aging) as applicable. Aging condition - Temp : 80ºC; Humidity : < 5%; Duration: 24 hours 2. * = Additional cost 3. # = Additional color package 4. Lining tests : additional color package + fiber content + (AZO dye test except Outlet) 5. ^ = Max. 3 combine to 1 at same material. If positive/inconclusive result was found in composed sample. We will automatically separate retest of each component in order to determine the individual compliance of each component in the sample.
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