The promise of ethical innovation

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1 The promise of ethical innovation Organized by: Supporting: BARCELONA - SPAIN 4-6 April 2006 THE LEADING INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS PLATFORM RAW MATERIALS AND INGREDIENTS FOR COSMETICS TOILETRIES AND PERSONAL CARE

3 in-focus Amazonia 3 Solabia in-cosmetics has chosen Barcelona to launch the first edition of a new innovation and networking feature: in-focus. In its 16 th year, in-cosmetics has become the most global and comprehensive meeting of experts in the development of beauty and well being products across market segments and specialties. Because we know your time is scarce and valuable during the 3 energizing days of in-cosmetics, in-focus intends to do just what it says: bring you clarity, condensed expertise and meeting opportunities on some of the hottest subjects in the industry. CONTENTS 4. The promise of ethical innovation 7. A short glimpse at traditional medicinal plants from the Rain Forest 13. in-focus feature area 15. Conference schedule 17. Suppliers reference guide Media partner: For this first edition, in-focus brings you to the heart of the Amazon and natural formulations. We sincerely hope you will find the experience both exciting and enriching. Richard Hesk - Exhibition Director

4 in-focus Amazonia The promise of ethical innovation Every year at in-cosmetics, one haunting and challenging question seems to buzz in the aisles of the exhibition: what are the new products?

4 4 in-focus Amazonia The promise of ethical innovation Every year at in-cosmetics, one haunting and challenging question seems to buzz in the aisles of the exhibition: what are the new products? Like the skin, the beauty industry constantly needs to renew its cells! Both visitors and exhibitors alike are craving for new ideas and concepts. However, in the great innovation race, some signs tell us that a short pause could be beneficial to all. Consumers are lost among the thousands of products and brands in the market and buying a day cream may sometimes generate high anxiety! At the same time, consumers and beauty editors are getting more knowledgeable and demanding. Not only do they need to rely on the product efficacy and safety, they also expect brands to have a philosophy and general policy they can relate to. Functionality and product performance is no longer enough! The market wants new products but products and brands with meanings. We now need to draw the curtain and go behind the scene to explore each and every step of product development and make sure they are in line with the brand philosophy and consumer expectations. To illustrate this essential and fundamental trend in the industry, the first edition of in-focus brings you to the Amazon. Why the Amazon? Because the ethical question really started with the exponential growth of naturals in the 90 s, because the Rain Forest is certainly a perfect model of the natural world, because it reveals the extraordinary amount of efforts and involvements suppliers of raw materials are putting into building up a sustainable development policy. The Amazon and the Rain Forest crystallize the key issues at stake: they represent both the most exciting source of possible new substances and at the same time, the most critical challenges in terms of sustainable development. The Amazon is often associated with Brazil But in reality Brazil enjoys 6 extraordinary biomes covering a total of 8.5 million km 2. With close to 56,000 vegetable species, Brazil has the richest flora in the world. Solabia

in-focus Amazonia 5 The Amazonian region itself is known to have the largest group of rain forests on Earth, with the highest and most diverse range of vegetable species in the world.

5 in-focus Amazonia 5 The Amazonian region itself is known to have the largest group of rain forests on Earth, with the highest and most diverse range of vegetable species in the world. The Mata Atlantica (the subtropical Atlantic region) is the most important of This is the reason why in-focus 2006 does not stop at presenting a range of innovative and exciting ingredients and concepts. in-focus also invites you to discover how cosmetic ingredients suppliers work behind the scene. Solabia the Brazilian biomes and one of the 5 richest biodiversity hotspots on earth. It has been designated an International Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1992 and inscribed on the World Heritage List in It should thus come as no surprise that Brazil appears as the new El Dorado of natural sciences and biotechnology. It is the promise of extraordinary new substances at a time when the pressure for innovation is growing ever stronger. But if the Amazon is still to be called the New World, it should be in the sense that it represents the unique opportunity to learn from the past to create the conditions of a better, sustainable world. Behind the appealing value of exotic plant names lies an enormous amount of work and involvement. Developing plants from the Amazon is about identifying the right plants and the rights chemotypes but it is also about working with its communities, committing to long-term contracts, training the producers to international quality standards, securing a regular and reliable supply capacity It is about creating the guarantee of renewable resources and protecting the environment. It is about paying a tribute to traditions and fighting against biopiracy. It is about sharing the values of our world. Naturals brands have shown that ethical development charts may sometimes be more efficient than advertising to capture the attention of new customers and build brand loyalty. Innovation must now be ethical if only for economical reasons.

in-focus Amazonia Page 7 A short glimpse at traditional medicinal plants from the Rain Forest Among the many traditional plants of the Rain Forest, some have been the subject of scientific studies

7 in-focus Amazonia Page 7 A short glimpse at traditional medicinal plants from the Rain Forest Among the many traditional plants of the Rain Forest, some have been the subject of scientific studies and have been made available as standardized cosmetic ingredients. To trigger your inspiration here is a short selection of some of the most important plants in the region. Açaí, Euterpe oleracea Açai is a tall tree known as one of the world s main sources of palm hearts. Its fruits are known to produce a very popular drink in the Amazon. Their dark colour is due to the presence of polyphenolic compounds among which anthocyanin a powerful antioxidant. Andiroba, Carapa guianensis Andiroba or Brazilian mahogany is one of the noble essences of the Amazon. Expanscience It is revered by the Indians as a sacred tree. The seeds produce an oil rich in essential fatty acids traditionally used as an anti-inflammatory, insect repellent, for wound healing and to treat various skin disorders. Andiroba oil was used by the Munduruku Indians for the mummification of human heads. The Caboclos (Indian tribe) produce a soap based on the oil. Annato, Bixa orellana, Rocou, lipstick tree, urucum The seeds of the annato shrub is the source of a colouring agent for food and body paints. They produce an oil which is a rich source of anti-oxidant carotenoids (bixin and norbixin). The leaves are also used in traditionnal medicine. Babassu, Orbignya barbosiana The name comes from the Tupi Guarani: ba, fruit and açu, large. Babassu is considered as one of the most productive oleaginous palms in the world. The fruits produce a very light and fluid oil with a high content in lauric acid. Its traditional uses can be traced up to the Maya.

8 in-focus Amazonia Breu branco, Protium decandrum The resin of Breu branco is an illustration of the inspiring resources of Brazil in the design of fragrances.

Castanha do Brasil, Bertholletia excelsa, Brazil nut, para nut An important staple in the Indian s diet, the Brazil nut is a rich source of selenium and essential fatty acids.

Croda Beraca Candeia, Vanillomopsis erythropappa Candeia is a tree of the South East and Midwest regions of Brazil.

8 8 in-focus Amazonia Breu branco, Protium decandrum The resin of Breu branco is an illustration of the inspiring resources of Brazil in the design of fragrances. Buriti, Mauritia flexuosa Tupi Guaranis say that where there is Buriti, there is water. The Buriti oil is one of the richest sources of beta carotene. Castanha do Brasil, Bertholletia excelsa, Brazil nut, para nut An important staple in the Indian s diet, the Brazil nut is a rich source of selenium and essential fatty acids. It produces the leite de castanha which is used along with manioc flour for the preparation of food. The oil is used as an emollient for the skin and hair. Croda Beraca Candeia, Vanillomopsis erythropappa Candeia is a tree of the South East and Midwest regions of Brazil. The distillation of the wood produces an essential oil that is a rich source of Alpha Bisabolol. Cangerana, Cabralea canjerana Cangerana is a tree of the Meliaceae family. It is found in Paraguay, Uruguay, Argentina and in the South East and Central regions of Brazil. The essential oil of Cangerana has a characteristic blue colour and a leather, marine note. It is known for its purifying, energizing and antiinflammatory properties. Cocau, Theobroma cacao,cocoa The nectar of Mayan and Aztec gods, Cocoa is appreciated for its high content in polyphenols and has found exciting new development in cosmetics these last years. Greentech

Copaiba shows a rich content in Caryophyllene, known for its antiinflammatory properties.

9 in-focus Amazonia 9 Copaiba, Copaifera officinalis Copaiba is one of the key products of traditional medicine. The tree produces a resin known in the Amazon as wound healer and is used in the treatment of various skin disorders. Copaiba shows a rich content in Caryophyllene, known for its antiinflammatory properties. Cumaru, Dipteryx odorata, Tonka Both the seeds and the bark of the tree are part of Indian traditional medicine. The bark is used in the preparation of therapeutic baths. The seeds have a pleasant vanilla like aroma and are used as food flavouring agents, in fragrance and skin care treatments. It is a rich source of coumarins. Cupuaçu, Theobroma grandiflorum Known as food of the Gods, Cupuaçu belongs to the chocolate family and is used in the preparations of fresh juice, ice cream and jam. The Cupuaçu produces a moisturizing and emollient butter. Expanscience Guarana, Paullinia cupana The name is derived from the Guarani Indians. Guara means human and Na means similar. Guarana is a famous stimulating tonic. It is used in cosmetics for its content in caffeine in toning, astringent and slimming formulas. Inca Inchi, Plukenetia volubilis L. The Inca Inchi is a plant of the Peruvian Amazon. Greentech The oils extracted from the kernels originate from the ancient Quechua (Inca) traditions and is an extraordinary source of essential fatty acids: alpha linolenic and linoleic acids.

10 in-focus Amazonia Juazeiro, Zizyphus joazeiro This shrubby tree of the Caatingas is one of the most respected trees in Brazil for its numerous applications.

The plant is the source of triterpenes, saponins, alkaloids and betulinic acid. Juazeiro is allotted anti-bacterial, antiinflammatory and astringent properties.

10 10 in-focus Amazonia Juazeiro, Zizyphus joazeiro This shrubby tree of the Caatingas is one of the most respected trees in Brazil for its numerous applications. The bark is used in hair care as a tonic and a natural cleanser. The fruit juice and the bark are used for various skin disorders. The plant is the source of triterpenes, saponins, alkaloids and betulinic acid. Juazeiro is allotted anti-bacterial, antiinflammatory and astringent properties. Maracujá, Passiflora edulis, Passion fruit Already known by the Aztec, Maracuja is a classical plant of South American traditional medicine. Both the fruits (tonic) and the leaves (sedative, pain reliever) are used. The plant is a source of alkaloids, glycosides and flavonoids. Muira Puama, Ptychopetalum olacoides Most parts of this small tree can be found in traditional preparations of the Amazon. The plant is in the Brazilian Pharmacopoeia since the 1950 s. Muira Puama is called the potency wood and is often quoted as a sexual stimulant. It contains long chain fatty acids, sequiterpenes, monoterpenes and novel fatty acids. Murumuru, Astrocaryum murumuru The seeds of this small palm tree produce an emollient butter rich in lauric acid. Beraca Croda

Sangre de Grado, Croton lechieri, Dragon s blood Croda Dragon s Blood is a tree growing throughout the tropics and the Amazon regions of South America.

11 in-focus Amazonia 11 Pequi, Caryocar brasiliense The fruits of this perennial tree are valued for their content in proteins and vitamin A. The oil from the nut has a high content in oleic and palmitic acids. Sangre de Grado, Croton lechieri, Dragon s blood Croda Dragon s Blood is a tree growing throughout the tropics and the Amazon regions of South America. When the trunk of the tree is cut, a dark red sap oozes out as if the tree is bleeding, earning its local name of Sangre de grado. Externally the sap was traditionally used as an astringent, an antibacterial and antifungal, a cicatrizant for fractures and wounds, and as a poultice in a lot of skin disorders like eczema. Actives found in the sap include proanthocyanidins, simple phenols, diterpenes, phytosterols, and biologically active alkaloids and lignans. The major part of the actives - proanthocyanidins and catechin derivatives - and Taspine - a minor component in the sap - are said to comprise the anti-inflammatory principle found in dragon s blood (courtesy of Crodamazon). Stevia, Stevia rebaudiana The honey yerba or candy leaf has long been praised as a sweetener used by the Indians in Yerba Mate tea. The plant is rich in terpenes, flavonoids and glycosides (among which is the stevioside). It is used as an antibacterial and wound healer. Greentech

12 in-focus Amazonia Suma, Pfaffia paniculata This shrubby ground vine is known as para tudos which means for all things indicating its vast range of applications.

12 12 in-focus Amazonia Suma, Pfaffia paniculata This shrubby ground vine is known as para tudos which means for all things indicating its vast range of applications. The Suma root is the Brazilian ginseng, a general adaptogen allotted tonic with rejuvenating and sexual stimulating properties. It is rich in amino acids, trace elements and is known to be a source of beta ecdysterone. Yerba Mate, Ilex paraguariensis Paraguay tea is a popular drink throughout South America, but especially in Paraguay, Uruguay and Brazil. The xanthin alkaloids content accounts for its tonic and antioxidant properties. Warning the above data is the synthesis of different bibliographical sources. It is the responsibility of the users to verify the allegations and that the use of some extracts are not covered by a patent. Solabia

13 in-focus Amazonia 13 in-focus feature area The notion of Natural Cosmetics seen through the prism of the Amazon is certainly as vast as the Rain Forest itself. Beyond nature, it relates to biodiversity and the possibility of novel molecules and innovation. It relates to sustainable development issues such as fair trade and the preservation of eco systems. But it also refers to the relationships between the exotic, cultural identity and brand identity Meet with the laboratories who work on the subjects, discover their new products and explore the potential that lies ahead. 1. BIODIVERSITY AND TRADITIONS Plants from Brazil See, touch and feel an original selection of medicinal leaves, seeds and barks presented by Beraca. 2. BRAND VALUES AND IDENTITY Brazilian Beauty Store Discover some of the most interesting Brazilian brands provided by Mintel. Discuss the Brazilian influences on international markets. 3. SENSORIAL DESIGN Brazilian Inspirations Agipal is presenting original natural fragrances from Brazil among which is a prodigious blue essence. Expanscience has teamed up with Affix ( to imagine sensual skin care formulas inspired by the traditional uses of vegetable oils and butters from the Amazon. Rohm and Haas is presenting an environmental approach to hair styling. 4. COSMETIC FOODING Cosmetic Candy Bar Indulge your skin with fabulous beauty marmalades and delicious candies by Lessonia. Brazilian Juice Bar Repulp your skin vitality and radiance with fresh fruit juices from the Amazon by Solabia.

14 in-focus Amazonia 5. NATURAL FORMULATION Natural Beauty Bar Explore the possibilities of all natural formulas with delightful textures from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Orafti and Soliance. 6.

14 14 in-focus Amazonia 5. NATURAL FORMULATION Natural Beauty Bar Explore the possibilities of all natural formulas with delightful textures from Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, Orafti and Soliance. 6. WELLBEING Rain Forest Spa Croda is introducing new beauty and well being rituals inspired by the traditions of the Rain Forest. 7. SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT The Omega Project Greentech and Cosnessens ( present original formulas imagined as a tribute to ancient Quechua (Inca) beauty rituals based on Inca Inchi - a plant of the Peruvian Amazon that is part of a reforestation programme. Aldivia / PhytoTrade Africa Aldivia is presenting an original approach to fair trade which takes into account the relationships between intellectual properties, product innovation and traditional medicine. Greentech

15 in-focus Amazonia 15 Conference Schedule All presentations are free to attend TIME 4 APRIL :45-11:15 12:00-12:30 12:45-13:15 14:00-14:30 15:15-15:45 16:30-17:00 ABC (Associação Brasileira de Cosmetologia) Brazil: big challenges for a big country Mr. Angel Lizárraga, Vice President of the ABC and International Sales Manager of Ox Cosméticos Expanscience Amazonian oils: botany, tradition, extraction and modern applications. Alex Saunois, PhD, Lipochemistry and Plant Extraction Laboratory Manager. Croda Benefits of Brazil nut oil on colour degradation of dyed hair. Vânia Maria Pacchioni, Manager, Crodamazon Brazil. Solabia Biodiversity and Sustainable Development: the Araucaria 2005 Assignement. Jean-François Molina, Marketing Director, Solabia Group. Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Towards all-natural formulas? Agnès Le Fur, R&D Manager new raw materials and application formulas. Beraca Innovative cosmetic ingredients obtained from sustainable resources of the Brazilian biodiversity. João Carlos de Souza Matos, Biodiversity Enhancement Program Manager. Maria Inês Bloise, Technical Director. 17:15-17:45 Max Havelaar Max Havelaar fair trade certification (FLO Certification) Séverine Peron, Cotton and Cosmetics Industry Manager.

16 in-focus Amazonia Conference Schedule TIME 6 APRIL 2006 10:15-10:45 11:15-12:00 13:00-13:30 14:45-15:15 Evic France Exotic plants and safety evaluation. Philippe Masson, Chairman.

16 16 in-focus Amazonia Conference Schedule TIME 6 APRIL :15-10:45 11:15-12:00 13:00-13:30 14:45-15:15 Evic France Exotic plants and safety evaluation. Philippe Masson, Chairman. Mintel From Rio to the Rainforest: the influence of Brazil on cosmetics and skincare. Lynn Dornblaser, Director of GNPD Consulting Services, Chicago. David Jago, Director of GNPD Consulting Services, London. Greentech Inca Inchi: an example of sustainable development within Latin America. Jean-Yves Berthon, President, Greentech. José Anaya, CEO and founder of Agroindustrias Amazonicas Company. Aldivia Aldivia indigenous botanical oils and actives: the fair trade attitude with IP sharing. Pierre Charlier de Chily, CEO Aldivia.

17 in-focus Amazonia 17 Suppliers reference guide 1. AGIPAL A specialist in essential oils and vegetable oils (raspberry seed and Chilean hazelnut virgin oils), Agipal selects raw materials for the cosmetic industry with the greatest of care from the outset. Key Amazonia references: 100% pure and natural essential oils: Cangerana Paraguay (Cabralea canjerana), Brazilian Rose (Aniba rosaedora) and Alpha Bisabolol obtained from the Candeia essential oil (Vanillomopsis erythropapa). 2. ALDIVIA / PHYTOTRADE AFRICA Adivia focuses on organic and Fair Trade cosmetics ingredients from Africa and South America. With PhytoTrade Africa based in Southern Africa, Aldivia is a pioneer in sharing intellectual properties with primary producers on the products they develop. Key Amazonia references: Andiroba oil, Buriti oil, Brazil nut oil, Coffee oil. 3. BERACA Beraca Ingredients is a Brazilian laboratory founded in 1956 and is among the leading manufacturers of vegetable specialties from the Amazon for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical markets. Most Beraca products are certified by the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) and organic certification by Ecocert. Key Amazonia references: Andiroba, Annato, Babassu, Buriti, Castanha do Brasil, Cupuaçu, Maracujá, Piqui, Priprioca, Tucumã, Ucuúba, Açai, Murumuru. 4. CRODA Croda International has a dedicated subsidiary in Brazil, Crodamazon, with a plant in Manaus since Crodamazon s mission is to study plants of the Brazilian biodiversity. Crodamazon s portfolio includes products certified by the FSC, the Sustainable Agriculture Network (SAN) and the IBD (Instituto Biodinamico) for organic plants. Key Amazonia references: Andiroba, Brazil nut, Buriti, Green Coffee, Cupuaçu, Guarana, Maracuja, Murumuru, Pequi, Urucum, Babassu, Tucumã, Cocoa, Mate, Stevia.

18 18 in-focus Amazonia Suppliers reference guide 5. EXPANSCIENCE Expanscience Laboratories have more than 50 years experience in the field of plant oils and offer activity substantiated active ingredients. Key Amazonia references: Cupuaçu butter, Para-nut oil, Andiroba oil. 6. GREENTECH Since its creation in 1992, Greentech has dedicated itself to soft biotechnology for safeguarding endangered plants and the conservation of biodiversity. Greentech has development programmes in Latin America, Melanesia and Central Africa. Key Amazonia references: Inca Inchi, Green Coffee, Cocoa, Stevia. 7. LESSONIA Traditions around the world have inspired Lessonia to offer the cosmetic and Spa markets a wide variety of natural ingredients. Key Amazonia references: nonrefined 100% organic and Fair Trade sugar cane, Guarana, Luffa Annatto. 8. LUCAS MEYER COSMETICS A specialist in phospholipids and novel natural substances, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics develops new skin care strategies exploring the benefits of biocompatibility and the regulation of cell metabolisms. 9. MINTEL Mintel is a global supplier of consumer, media and market research. For over thirty years, Mintel has partnered with clients to monitor competitors, understand consumers, develop new products, refine marketing efforts and discover profitable new opportunities. 10. ORAFTI Orafti Bio Based Chemicals is part of the Orafti Group, the world leader in chicory and rice based ingredients. The company develops highly functional solutions of natural origin. 11. ROHM AND HAAS Rohm and Haas is a specialty materials company focused on delivering technically advanced products and services with a world renown expertise in polymers for the personal care industry. 12. SOLABIA Solabia group started its activities in Brazil with the creation of Solabia do Brazil in 1995 and later, Solabia Biotecnologica and Solabia Botanica do Brazil to develop natural actives for the cosmetic and nutraceutical markets. Key Amazonia references: Babaçu, Condurango, Sugar Cane, Capinxingui, Papaya, Araucaria. 13. SOLIANCE Soliance focuses on innovating and tailor-made cosmetic solutions based on natural substances. The company has developed an expertise in the fields of biotechnologies R&D and production of plant & phytoplankton extracts. Key Amazonia references: Juazario.

OILS AND BUTTERS OF THE AMAZON

OILS AND BUTTERS OF THE AMAZON We work with natural oils and butter, extracted directly from the seeds and native fruits from the Amazon forest, with minimal processing, in order to guarantee the integrity of the nutrients and the quality